CD32: How do you know if it is PAL or NTSC?

[freqmax]

smerf, Does it really use -12V DC ?

http://www.hardwarebook.info/Amiga_CD32_Power

[smerf]

smerf, Does it really use -12V DC ?

http://www.hardwarebook.info/Amiga_CD32_Power

Got me on that one. It has been at least 8 years since I even looked at my CD32, but according to the hardware book, the answer seem to be no, it doesn't use -12 v dc. Anyhow here is a site to get info on how to use a PC power supply.

http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/amiga_hacks/Amiga_Power_supplies/body_amiga_power_supplies.html

Nice work, on your question, sorry for the misinfo, like I said it has been at least 8 years since I looked at my CD 32, been thinking of bringing it out of the attic and hookint it up on my desk, this way I can put my Amiga 4000 away. (Nice having an SX-1).

and

Remember for any hard questions, be sure to talk to that moderator who wears a hard hat, you know old what is his name, (darn I keep forgettin).

smerf

[freqmax]

Seems this thread gives the answer: Amiga cd32 psu pinouts + A500 psu pinouts

CD32 4-Pin Din Male (At PSU end looking directly on)



1 = 12v yellow
2 = Unused
3 = GND
4 = 5v Red

I'm not certain if Commodore PSUs use the same colour conventions as modern PC PSUs, but I've based those colours from the ATX PSU I'm using for my CD32.

The A500 male plug



1 = Shield
2 = +12v Brown
3 = -12v White
4 = GND Black
5 = 5v Red

However I'm unsure on the "not used" because RS-232 ports may malfunction silently. As RS-232 needs at least -3V to be standards compliant. This can be accomplished with an charge pump if not provided by the PSU directly.

[mongo]

However I'm unsure on the "not used" because RS-232 ports may malfunction silently. As RS-232 needs at least -3V to be standards compliant. This can be accomplished with an charge pump if not provided by the PSU directly.

The serial port on the CD-32 uses TTL voltage levels.

All the signals required for RGB output are available on the motherboard at TP9.

http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/downloads/CD32_V3_schematics.pdf

[CodeHunter]

I am planning to use a PC PSU in near future for my PAL CD32, but as someone who has never seen or used a CD32, I am very eager to test it out as soon as possible, that is why running to a local store, getting a step down trasformer and a plug seems a bit faster solution for this need (as opposed to getting a PSU, and a soldering iron).

So are you saying that if I get a plug and a step down convertor my PAL brick would still not work, or is it just underpowered and would generally go bad over time? since my only concern is to plug and play this darn thing!

[freqmax]

Watch out for bad capacitors in the power supply. And run it for a while and measure it before use.

[CodeHunter]

Since my CD32 is a PAL system, does it mean that if I connect it to a real RGB monitor (15KHz), I will notice interlace artifacts?

I know that I can NOT connect my PAL CD32 via an RGB cable into my Commodore 1084-S D1 since this monitor is NTSC.

But I am sure my Sony PVM-20L5 which is a multisync, would be able to. The question is there is going to be noticeable interlace or not.

Here is the specification for my Sony monitor:
http://www.broadcastbaron.com/infopvm20l5.htm

[mongo]

Since my CD32 is a PAL system, does it mean that if I connect it to a real RGB monitor (15KHz), I will notice interlace artifacts?

I know that I can NOT connect my PAL CD32 via an RGB cable into my Commodore 1084-S D1 since this monitor is NTSC.

You CAN connect your PAL CD32 via an RGB cable into my Commodore 1084-S D1 and it will work quite nicely. Commodore monitors will display PAL or NTSC no problem.

You'll notice interlace artifacts if you use an interlaced video mode on your CD32.

[CodeHunter]

Thanks for your kind message. OK here are some of the shots of the actual unit, displaying the missing plug (naked three wires), Serial number on the box and the unit NOT matching, and the intact protective plastic film on the CD and Amiga logo:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

I don't care if the unit has been swapped, as long as it powers on and play. But the seller was not an honest person, since I have to buy the plug, transformer (or create one from PC PSU).

Is there any disadvantage of having a PAL system over NTSC?

[Matt_H]

Based on the tag on the PSU, it looks like the lack of plug was deliberate. Maybe the UK folks can answer better, but isn't it fairly common to manually install plugs on UK appliances?

A 220V-to-110V converter will run you about $40 at Radio Shack, but I think the Molex adapter that AmigaKit sells is a better option.

A PAL CD32 is arguably superior because most of the CD32's software is PAL. Yes, you can switch between NTSC and PAL in software, but having PAL native hardware saves you a step.

[freqmax]

i recall buying stuff from the UK and got .. no plug. Perhaps it's a custom there.

[CodeHunter]

OK, I got a step-up transformer (I will make a PC PSU later this week), and I am about to make a lead cable for it. This is what I have done so far:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 1)
Cut a NEMA 1-15P (US) cable, so I have a two pronged plug:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 2)
Connect this plug to an adapter which goes into the step-up transformator (I know it is very messy, but I am dying to power this thing up!)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 3) I am not sure which one of the two stripped wires from my NEMA cable goes to which PAL CD32 brick wires (this is the step that I need your help please)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/



Your kind comments are appreciated!

[freqmax]

What kind of monitor is on the last two photos in this link ..?

Seems advanced..

[CodeHunter]

Oh, it is not mine, but my Sony PVM-20L5 is very similar to it, it is a native 15KHz multisync RGB monitor. I run all my MAME and other emulators on it and they look absolutely gorgeous in their RGB glory. I also have my PS1 and Sega SATURN hooked up to it (vai RGB to SCART) and they look phenomenal. Once you RGB, there is no going back!

[freqmax]

What makes it better than any random TFT screen with RGB input?

[Matt_H]

OK, I got a step-up transformer (I will make a PC PSU later this week), and I am about to make a lead cable for it. This is what I have done so far:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 1)
Cut a NEMA 1-15P (US) cable, so I have a two pronged plug:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 2)
Connect this plug to an adapter which goes into the step-up transformator (I know it is very messy, but I am dying to power this thing up!)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 3) I am not sure which one of the two stripped wires from my NEMA cable goes to which PAL CD32 brick wires (this is the step that I need your help please)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/



Your kind comments are appreciated!

I think you should go about this differently. Get an actual UK plug to attach to the power supply, and then get a converter for that to the Radio Shack adapter. Also make sure you have the correct voltage adapter - one to run 220V appliances on 110V lines.

What makes it better than any random TFT screen with RGB input?

Proper overscan. Can't beat it.