CD32: How do you know if it is PAL or NTSC?

[Matt_H]

OK, I got a step-up transformer (I will make a PC PSU later this week), and I am about to make a lead cable for it. This is what I have done so far:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 1)
Cut a NEMA 1-15P (US) cable, so I have a two pronged plug:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 2)
Connect this plug to an adapter which goes into the step-up transformator (I know it is very messy, but I am dying to power this thing up!)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 3) I am not sure which one of the two stripped wires from my NEMA cable goes to which PAL CD32 brick wires (this is the step that I need your help please)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/



Your kind comments are appreciated!

I think you should go about this differently. Get an actual UK plug to attach to the power supply, and then get a converter for that to the Radio Shack adapter. Also make sure you have the correct voltage adapter - one to run 220V appliances on 110V lines.

What makes it better than any random TFT screen with RGB input?

Proper overscan. Can't beat it.

[freqmax]

Regarding power, perhaps the 50 vs 60 Hz will screw things up? ie saturate transformer core such that it would overheat with enogh time.

Can't overscan be adjusted on the monitor?

[CodeHunter]

OK, I decided to go ahead and use a PC PSU to power up my PAL CD32 and I am about the make a cable for it:

I have already got the following parts:

"Y" Molex adapter
4 pin MALE plug

Now, I wanted to follow the guides on making this cable, and there seems to be a discrepancy between the pin layouts:

There seems to be a discrepancy between the pin layouts:

The following two (pin and chart) are from http://www.hardwarebook.info:


4 PIN DIN MALE at the Power Supply cable:



4 PIN DIN FEMALE at the CD32:




The following image (I have intentionally flipped it) is from http://www.ianstedman.co.uk:






And finally, this is what  xArtx kindly provided in this thread




 xArt's image and the hardwarebook.info match, but there is a discrepancy between those two and the ones posted on http://www.ianstedman.co.uk.




In other words, one source say that I have to connect the +5VDC (RED) to Pin 1, and +12VDC (YELLOW) to Pin 2, and finally GND to Pin 3.

And the other says: that I have to connect the +5VDC (RED) to Pin 1, and +12VDC (YELLOW) to Pin 4, and finally GND to Pin 2.

which one is the correct one?

[CodeHunter]

4 PIN DIN MALE at the Power Supply cable.


4 PIN DIN FEMALE at the CD32.

[freqmax]

Measure the power supply!

Or at least follow the PCB traces..

[CodeHunter]

OK, I got it to work (followed the images with actual RED and YELLOW cables attached) and it works.

Now the question is:

Whey I power it up, I can see the animation boot screen, and when I press any button on the controller, it goes to a language screen selection. I choose ENGLISH (thinking it is a PAL system), but nothing happens. If I press a button, it just resets the system and I am back to the language selection screen.

I have a game (DIGGER that came with it) inserted before or after the boot screen, but it does not load the game. I even inserted an audio CD, but it does not go any further.

What seems to be wrong?!

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

Not reading the disc?  Maybe something needs to be cleaned, or the motor is stuck?  Just guessing, good luck!

[CodeHunter]

Not reading the disc?  Maybe something needs to be cleaned, or the motor is stuck?  Just guessing, good luck!

No. The "CD" logo on the boot menu does do the animated spin, meaning that it can not read the disc. Mind you these are the original, genuine discs (both DIGGER and the actual audio CD, Iron Maiden). I am baffled...

EDIT:
I thought maybe the system is not getting enough power to spin the CD drive, so I went ahead and soldered a two pronged (NEMA type), plug into the original PAL brick and plugged in the setp-up converter (transformer):
The system boots up, but just like before, the CD does not spin at all. The CD access light does not lit up.

Questions:

1) Is the lens supposed be emitting some sort of light? Since I don't see anything.
2) Unlike the modern laptop CD-DVD drives, where you can feel and hear a "click" when you insert the disc, the CD32 seems to not have any "lock" mechanism, you just place the CD on the drive. Is this normal?
3) I have a feeling that the guy indeed defrauded me. After spending $475 for the system, plus $50 for the step-up transformer and other accessories, the darn thing does not work. What should I do?

[CodeHunter]

The CD drive seems to be dead. I opened my CD32 system, and could not find any loose connection or anything at all. The guy indeed defrauded me for $500.

Be it a lesson to me, to NOT buy a darn system, unless it is powered right in front of my eyes, and tested.

Is a CD drive replacement available for sale anywhere?

[freqmax]

OK, I got it to work (followed the images with actual RED and YELLOW cables attached) and it works.

So this is the picture that shows the correct connections?




Regarding the CD-drive, perhaps you could test the drive with a  MKE/Panasonic interface found in som really old PC-soundcard like Sound Blaster Pro, CT1330, Gravis Ultrasound MAX and Gravis Ultrasound CD3 soundcards ..?

And even better get an extra drive with Panasonic/Sony/Mitsumi interface and see if the CD32 runs with it. Just remember it's neither IDE, P-ATA or SCSI-8.

Considering the age and use of the unit. It's no wonder that the mechanical side of things are broken. Getting an original (non-FPGA) Amiga to work is likely expensive buys + repairs. Knowhow doesn't hurt either. And some sellers just don't have the equipment to test these things.

[CodeHunter]

I see. Thanks for your comment. I am exhausted and wasted a lot of time on this darn thing.

[freqmax]

I hope you haven't given up? If I were you I would search ebay.com for some "Panasonic/Sony/Mitsumi/MKB interface" that most PC owners would send to trash normally. And then buy it dirt cheap.

At least then you could try the unit by opening it and using the alternative CD. With real luck you might piece together the original form factor too.

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

The guy indeed defrauded me for $500.

Not directed at you personally but I see this a lot, was the system sold as "tested/working", or "untested/original/never unboxed/20-year-old parts/blah blah blah"?  If the latter, you can't really claim "fraud", just FYI.  Anyhow, it sounds like a bunk drive, probably just from sitting in storage for 20 years.  Shouldn't be too hard to get working again with the right spare parts!

[freqmax]

I think this is the pinout:
http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~theom/electronics/panasoniccd.html

However if you look at the Gravis soundcards (and perhaps soundblaster) you can see three sockets. CD-Rom interface was a mess those days!
(S-ATA + BluRay is a breeze in comparision)


(Anyone up for Amiga CD64 with Blu-Ray? )

[CodeHunter]

I see, many thanks for your kind remarks. I might pursue a spare CD drive in the next couple of weeks or so, as I am very frustrated and exhausted by this horrid experience. I am sure the guy who cheated me, would repay back in another shape or form in life.

[paul1981]

I see, many thanks for your kind remarks. I might pursue a spare CD drive in the next couple of weeks or so, as I am very frustrated and exhausted by this horrid experience. I am sure the guy who cheated me, would repay back in another shape or form in life.

They do show up on ebay from time to time, usually under "CD32 drive mechanism". You could also place a wanted ad on Amibay.... you'll be suprised how many people have unwanted spares. You will find a drive eventually, it'll just be a matter of time. Good luck mate, hope you get it sorted.