CD32: How do you know if it is PAL or NTSC?

[Matt_H]

Based on the tag on the PSU, it looks like the lack of plug was deliberate. Maybe the UK folks can answer better, but isn't it fairly common to manually install plugs on UK appliances?

A 220V-to-110V converter will run you about $40 at Radio Shack, but I think the Molex adapter that AmigaKit sells is a better option.

A PAL CD32 is arguably superior because most of the CD32's software is PAL. Yes, you can switch between NTSC and PAL in software, but having PAL native hardware saves you a step.

[Matt_H]

OK, I got a step-up transformer (I will make a PC PSU later this week), and I am about to make a lead cable for it. This is what I have done so far:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 1)
Cut a NEMA 1-15P (US) cable, so I have a two pronged plug:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 2)
Connect this plug to an adapter which goes into the step-up transformator (I know it is very messy, but I am dying to power this thing up!)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 3) I am not sure which one of the two stripped wires from my NEMA cable goes to which PAL CD32 brick wires (this is the step that I need your help please)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/



Your kind comments are appreciated!

I think you should go about this differently. Get an actual UK plug to attach to the power supply, and then get a converter for that to the Radio Shack adapter. Also make sure you have the correct voltage adapter - one to run 220V appliances on 110V lines.

What makes it better than any random TFT screen with RGB input?

Proper overscan. Can't beat it.

[Matt_H]

I'd examine the motor first. That's probably the most likely thing to fail from sitting in storage for 2 decades. It may just need some jostling or re-lubricating to get moving again.