1084 Monitor Issues ...

[drwho]

Hi Folks,

I have a C= 1084 monitor. I can't recall the exact model number, but, it looks exactly like the Magnavox Professional RGB Monitor (In fact, I think they made the thing), it has the square power button, and the grey flip-down tilt stand.

I have an issue with this monitor and maybe someone here could give me some pointers to help remedy the problem.

When I first power the monitor up it works fine. After about 30 minutes or so, when it's fully warmed up, the picture will slowly fade out to black. If I give the monitor a wack on the side with the palm of my hand, it will sometimes come back for about 10 - 20 minutes and then go out again. After a while, nothing will bring it back, except letting it sit over night and starting the entire process over again in the morning.

I think that it is fairly obvious that this issue is heat related but I am not sure where to start with it. Any assistance would be very helpful. I am quite good with a soldering iron and know my way around electronic equipment as well, including the dangerous inards of TV's and monitors.

Thanks,
Mike

[Noster]

Hi

these monitors are known that they solder out their "line transformer" (hope it is the correct word :-) ) itself.
You will see the according soldering points if you open the case, just have a look.

Noster

[Ilwrath]

these monitors are known that they solder out their "line transformer" (hope it is the correct word  )

Yep... Line transformer, high-voltage transformer, flyback, whatever you want to call it...  Bad solder joint, most likely.  

And, of course, it goes without saying... Be careful.  Even after leaving the thing unplugged for a day or two, and following discharge procedure, it can still have some voltage trapped in it.....  (Not that I've ever blown up a monitor while working on it.... no.... not me....  [whistles innocently] )

[Eco]

I had the most irritating problem with my 1084, red and blue signals would vanish every now and them. After replacing the cable did not help, I found out that it was due to broken solder joints at the mounting of the round RGB connector in the back, easily fixable by re-heating the points and applying a bit of fresh solder.