**Need Setup HELP** with Classic Amiga 2000 HARD DISK (Bridgeboard)

[wbrejnia]

Some liquid Glass Cleaner, a toothbrush and some paper towels, and the Keyboard Case is like new.

Quite impressed that all the Yellowing/Stains came out.  Much easier to clean all-around/in-between with the PC-Board out.



The (PC board/Keys) is going to be a bit more fine cleaning work.

[Pat the Cat]

Thanks for pix - am currently verifying schematics for both USA and International A1000 keyboards, so it's very useful to see what the later A2000 keyboards were built like.
 
 All with the goal of making repairs easier, possibly also spare part manufacture.

[wbrejnia]

Pat,

You are welcome, and if you want a High Res, better quality photo of the Keyboard PC board, just PM me.

So I finished and Amiga 2000 keyboard restore, and below documented the steps.

--> I pryed off all the keys (lightly with a screw driver ON either side).
--> Clean and scrubber each key with toothbrush and Glass Cleaner.

--> Vacuumed/Brushed the board with my Miele Computer Assessory kit that I haven't used since I got it years ago.
--> Cleaned the Top surface with a Q-Tip cotton swab



--> I cleaned each gold contact with Contact cleaner.


--> Didn't spray the contact cleaner on contact (which would make a mess).  
--> Instead just sprayed the cleaner into a Small Vial, and used medicine dropper to drop the liquid onto each contact, and applied some light friction with a toothpick.




--> Put back all the Cleaned Keys



Then came the big part of the project.  [[ THE REPLACEMENT SHIFT KEYCAP ]]

The keycap I got Looked Exactly like an A2000 from top.



But underneath THE KEY CAP it is quite different from a Mount Perspective.

I learned that you can actually remove the Key Stem if you carefully insert a small FlatHead Screw Driver at the Top and Bottom and pry out delicately.

There is a spring in the middle that you have to be very careful to center, when push key stem back in.



I had to design a way to mount the Stem onto the keycap.

--> The KeyCap also has a stem that was too long, so I ground it down with a Dremil grinder.
--> That stem was too narrow to provide support and contact surface for attaching Stem.

The Keycap did come with a different kind of stem, that nicely fit into the Keycap Stem shaft.

--> So I sliced off a thin ring to add to the Keycap.



Then I installed the Stem Ring, onto the KepCap.

BUT I COULDN't GLUE to two together since there is a steel spring bar on the keyboard assembly (that get's in the way) so Base Stem needs to be snapped in first.



--> So I first snapped in the Base Stem.
--> Got things lined up.
--> I covered the top hole with tape to make sure no Hot Glue enter the key, (to gum up the Spring) and (and to not get glue into the gold Contact)

AND THEN I PUT HOT GLUE into the CAP, and PRESSED it ON to the STEM (HOLDING till GLUE COOLED)



The Key holds, and works even with some aggressive tapping.

KEYBOARD IS FULLY RESTORED.

[wbrejnia]

The MINUS KEY Mystery SOLVED!!

I forgot to mention the best part of the Amiga 2000 Keyboard Restore

The Minus key on the Keypad Never Worked for as Long as I can remember, but I had the (-) key over the (P) key so it didn't concern me.

I figured it was a Software Bug with Keyboard Mapping.



During the restoration Cleanup, I found the reason.


It was a Bug, but not software related.  It was in the Gold Contact Area of the Minus Key.  Web Nest Cocoon!!

Under the Magnifying Glass you can guess yourself whatever that BUG Was.


No more eating at the Keyboard like in the Good Old Gaming Days!!

[psxphill]

SO ITS A FAIRLY complex SMART-keyboard, compared to today's DUMB Purely Switch based keyboards.

Modern keyboards are smart, the electronics are just 30 years smaller.

[wbrejnia]

Modern keyboards are smart, the electronics are just 30 years smaller.

And modern keyboards don't come with 20 year OLD real BUGS

[darkage]

you need more serious help..   I think this should do the trick


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Amiga-A4000T-4000T-68060-Cyberstorm-PPC-604e-CyberVision-64-3D-ScanDoubler-/332186219098?hash=item4d57d7725a:g:NSIAAOSwSypY853g

It's current price is actually more than double what my 1st car costed me.  

[Dandy]

...
WB1.3 booted fine from OS3.1 ROM, but bridgeboard was not recognized at all by JANUS install SW.  (not sure why, but it could be OS3.1ROM)
...

Hmmm - have you already tried to create a bootable floppy disk with Kickstart 3.1 and to copy all the content of this 'JANUS install SW'-disk over to it?
That's what I would try...

Make an "OS 3.1 - JANUS install SW"-disk and try it again with that...

[wbrejnia]

you need more serious help.. I think this should do the trick


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Amiga-A4000T-4000T-68060-Cyberstorm-PPC-604e-CyberVision-64-3D-ScanDoubler-/332186219098?hash=item4d57d7725a:g:NSIAAOSwSypY853g

It's current price is actually more than double what my 1st car costed me.

Hmmm.  I would buy two but shipping is too expensive

[wbrejnia]

Hmmm - have you already tried to create a bootable floppy disk with Kickstart 3.1 and to copy all the content of this 'JANUS install SW'-disk over to it?
That's what I would try...

Make an "OS 3.1 - JANUS install SW"-disk and try it again with that...

Yes, I want to try that, and I will.
I was thinking all the Bridgeboard install programs are designed for Workbench type disks (1.2,1.3). But maybe it will work for OS3.1 too.
If not then simple copy of Janus.library, binaries (Djmount) and /devs might do the trick.

But if it doesn't work, I am not concerned.
Once I have ROM switcher then I'll have a working Workbench Disk (Gotek) to boot from a ROM that works with Bridgeboard.

I found that if I put GVP Driver into EXPANSION the Amiga SCSI Hard Drive shows up (even with Autoboot off), so then I can do backups to Briageboard ISA/IDE/CF Drive.

[Pat the Cat]

Pat,

You are welcome, and if you want a High Res, better quality photo of the Keyboard PC board, just PM me.

PM sent with email address.

[wbrejnia]

PM sent with email address.

Pat, I sent you pics via PM and Email.

I am in limbo on this whole Amiga project, till ROM switcher arrives.  The Kickstart 1.3, and 2.04 ROMS did arrive.  So I have 1.2, 1.3 , 2.04, and 3.1 ROMs.

Good thing on the slow package delivery on switcher since I am taking care of fish tanks.

[darkage]

was expecting new activity within this thread :-/

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

was expecting new activity within this thread :-/

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

[wbrejnia]

was expecting new activity within this thread :-/

Yes things got quiet.  I'm alive and fuming  Unhappy

As mentioned above.  I am completely stalled.

I won't go forward for final build/SW install till I have a ROM Switcher.
Many reasons, but I don't want to keep pulling out roms to try figure out Bridgeboard, and other OS's.

I am on a waiting list for this ROM, but at rate of builds, I will be waiting months.  I am #25 in queue. http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?60790-A500-A2000-Automatic-Kickstart-Switcher-New-project!
 
I have a better chance getting a Vampire sooner


So I lost hope till I found this Unitech switcher on Sale on Ebay.  http://www.bigbookofamigahardware.com/bboah/product.aspx?id=684

I won the Auction. It was mailed April 2nd (from Australia), Registered, no tracking.  It hasn't arrived.  I have to wait till May 18th for AusPost Investigation and Refund.

So I am thinking of building my own.  It not complicated.  Each ROM has a CS (CHip Select) and OE (Output Enable) pin.  It you wire the Amiga ROM socket pin to pin between the two ROMs but leave out Either CS, or OE then you can select which ROM is used by connecting the [CS or OE] to the A2000 MB Socket[CS or OE] though a buffer (using a 7400 NAND chip with a simple jumper select or Toggle Switch).

Something like in this Thread.  http://www.a1k.org/forum/showthread.php?p=100270  

So it's easy, but the hard part is all the 40 pin wire runs, which I wanted to avoid doing.

So I'm stuck.  Unless I find a easy wiring solution, which I am researching.

[wbrejnia]

DIY AMIGA Kickstart ROM Switcher ( Time to move on ).

DARKAGE, you woke up the bear!!! No I gave up on switcher coming from your homeland (Australia).  Appears they haven't learn things like Epacket Service.

Today the Ebay Seller and I have decided the package with the ROM switcher isn't ever going to arrive. Formal case started with Australia Post.
 Paypal and the Post Insurance should take care of things money wise, but much time lost.

I've decided to build my own Kickstart ROM switcher to start up the project again.

I actually finished that Aquarium DOSER Build so have time.
Here is the Aurdino Aquarium Doser Test Running on Your Tube (if Curious)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFAtzBtKVhA&t=26s
6 Month project, but this Amiga Project became a un-planned disruption.  
Most of the time was the User Friendly/FaultSafe Coding which you can see some of the results in the Video.

SO for short term. I'm building a SIMPLE Switcher. Just using a switch or Jumper.

Got some of these parts today.  Most are my China Aliexpress Collectables.
I have a few options for how it will be built (Sockets, Risers, Connectors, Switch or Jumpers)




To save on massive (hand wiring) effort with a wirewrapper, or even bigger effort/cost to design and etch a PC board.
I found some cool Ardiuno Interface Breakout-Board/Header Circuit Boards that have 40 Pin sockets points, with a header for a 40 wire ribbon cable.
I bought them unassembled, for building options. $6 CDN each.

http://www.technologicalarts.ca/shop/store/details/508/13/adapters/adapter,-40-pin-dip-socket-to-ribbon-cable.html

I got these a while ago to use them as an Extension for the Switcher, but looking at the designed, I can use them TO MAKE A SWITCHER.

I'll eventually add some Nand Gates, and make it a more intelligent switcher, but for now, THIS IS THE PROTYPE concept.



Basically like all/most memory chips there is a CE(Chip Enable PIN) and OE(Output Enable PIN). DECODING Address from CPU fetch, activates the ROM/RAM, etc.
The ADDRESS PINS and DATA PINS can all be connected to the MotherBoard ROM SOCKET.  ROM only wakes up on CE signal.
The AMIGA Kickstart ROM socket is already decoded on either (CE, OR or Both) with the appropriate address lines for ROM range.
I will try CE first.

So I'll plug in the DIP SOCKET Adapter into the MOtherboard ROM DIP. Cut the CS-PIN on the adapter/DIP and route through a jumper or switch to send CS-from MB to the appropriate ROM of choice.

I find it astounding that nobody has documented this anywhere in the Forums (much more).

I had to research and figure this out myself. Having done that thesis on Eprom Burner helped. Plus this GERMAN thread was handy to confirm my thinking http://www.a1k.org/forum/showthread.php?p=100270

The Primary ROM will be plugged into the MB ROM SOCKET so close.  The 2nd Rom will be via a short ribbon cable, so should be ok for Clocking Speed Noise.
The Jumper (for the CE broken connection) has to be fairly close to ROM to avoid NOISE. I will eventually buffer via NAND Chips, so I can extend the Jump to be a switch.
May need a Power Pin Capacitor, and possibly a Resistor or two.
If it works, then I may even expand and make it 4 ROM, since I have KS 1.2,1.3,2.2,3.1 ROMS.

Eventually if I wish, I can build extra logic to choose the ROM via ALT-ALT-AMIGA(KEYBOARD) which would be driven via the RESET pin of 68000 CPU CHIP.
That would need no external Mechanical switch.  But I'd rather go 4 ROMs with switch out of CardSlot-Port, then 2 via keyboard.

THIS SIMPLE VERSION IS Near ZERO RISK to the Motherboard, so I'm ok doing it.