Mouse doesn't work on first port

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

One other quick thought - I just went back and looked at the picture you posted earlier.  It looks like you have some kind of ROM switcher installed?  Have you tried removing all expansions from the system and testing your mouse & serial port issues with everything removed?

(you should really, really clean up around that battery, and snip it out of there, btw)

[guest11527]

I know but I fear of de-soldering

You should fear more what happens if the thing remains in. It already started to "blossom", so it's about over time to replace it and clean the board around it.

Can I replace it with lithium battery or else?

With a lithium battery and a diode that prevents charing the battery. Or remove the charging components on the board (two diodes close to the battery).

[LuigiThirty]

I just had this problem happen to my Amiga 2000 out of nowhere too. The mouse was working, then it wasn't. No light on my Tom+ adapter and no movement (but the buttons work) when I plug in a regular Amiga mouse. I've got a voltmeter but no probes fine enough to not short out every pin in the DB-9 connector.

I think I've got an old PC serial mouse I can use SERMOUSE with until I figure out what's wrong.

[DWV]

My Amiga 2000's mouse doesn't work on the first/right port.
Even its buttons don't work but no problem with the second/left port.
Joystick works on both ports though. Anyway to fix it? It's B2000 rev. 6
I have even swapped those two CIA chips but made no difference
http://phota.me/FA23.jpg

There is nothing wrong with your motherboard, that is the way it is supposed to be.
The mouse only works on the left port while joysticks will work on either port.
The Amiga specifically looks for the mouse on the left port, if you put a game in and set it to single player, it will look for a joystick on the right port, if you set it to dual player, it will look for joysticks on both ports.
You can tell the Amiga to look for the mouse on the right port, but frankly, WHY? if it works fine on the left port...leave it there and don't worry about it.

Dave

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

The mouse only works on the left port while joysticks will work on either port.

That is incorrect.  Mice will work on either port.  Some games (Battle Squadron comes to mind) allow you to play with two mice.  Lemmings is the same - plug in two mice for two player mode.

Unless you mean in Workbench, which only works with the mouse in the first port, AFAIK (unless you use some software trickery to swap it).

[RiP]

Thanks
I meant in Workbench too. I'll check it in the games too later.

[LuigiThirty]

My problem was in fact fuse F1 blowing. I've ordered a bag of them off eBay.

[RiP]

My problem was in fact fuse F1 blowing. I've ordered a bag of them off eBay.

But my 5V is ok.

[RiP]

There is nothing wrong with your motherboard, that is the way it is supposed to be.
The mouse only works on the left port while joysticks will work on either port.
The Amiga specifically looks for the mouse on the left port, if you put a game in and set it to single player, it will look for a joystick on the right port, if you set it to dual player, it will look for joysticks on both ports.
You can tell the Amiga to look for the mouse on the right port, but frankly, WHY? if it works fine on the left port...leave it there and don't worry about it.

Dave

Oh thank you very much :hammer:
Just connected mouse to the right port and it worked in the IK+ two player game.
No way to make it to work in Workbench?

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

No way to make it to work in Workbench?

Look on Aminet.  There's utilities that can swap the port.  Here's one I googled up real quick:

http://aminet.net/package/misc/fish/fish-0567

[James1095]

Still fear of de-soldering lol

If going at it with a soldering iron scares you that much, you don't even have to. You can simply snip it off, or as someone else said, wiggle it repeatedly until the tabs break and it comes off. It looks like it has already started to leak so you should wipe the area with a bit of vinegar on a cloth to neutralize the alkaline electrolyte and then wipe it down again with a cloth slightly moistened with clean water.

The pads where the battery installs are quite robust and there is nothing particularly sensitive in the immediate region. Even a complete amateur stands a good chance of attaching a new battery without damaging anything.

[RiP]

Finally I de-soldered it and soldered some wires for later if I wanted to add new battery, probably 3.6V Ni-MH (My battery was 3V Varta though)

[James1095]

The original Varta battery is a 3.6V NiCd, all Nixx cells are 1.2V nominal per cell so it's not possible to get a combination that gives 3.0V.

A CR2032 lithium coin cell with a blocking diode to prevent it from being charged will work too. A Schottky diode should be used ideally because the forward drop is much lower.