restoration opinion

[royalcrown]

How do you guys feel about repainting all or part of a classic? What if "retr0bright" doesn't do the trick on a particular area/unit ?

For me, if I was restoring a unit for my personal use, I'd do the lids, chassis...but never the bezel, or never where the metallic stickers (or other such stickers are. I prefer not to paint over a classic, but if restoring for authentic looks, I am sure it's had to have been done.

No reason other than general chit chat.:pint:

[sir_bacharach]

I think I'd just have to hope that retrobright worked. I don't like the idea of putting a coat of paint on something if it's almost guarenteed to wear off in certain areas. Is retrobright an actual product and if so where do you get it from in the uk? I've heard if referred to lots but only seem to see people using peroxide and bleach powder which apparently is dangerous to your health if you don't know what you're doing.

[danbeaver]

I personally believe in "Paint over Metal" or Paint-on-Paint, but plastic being flexible will have the paint flaking off in no time.  This is where the Retr0Brite option lays (I've got 3 4000D faceplates, 3 crappy ball-type mice, and a floppy drive faceplate taking in the sun as I type).  

I have seen Professional Paint-on-plastic projects that look stunning, as long as you don't touch or use them.  If you paint on plastic, then I'd use a tonne of clear coat to prevent flaking.

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

Is retrobright an actual product and if so where do you get it from in the uk?

You've gotta make it.  I don't think it can be made a "commercial product" because the chemicals involved can't be shipped or somesuch, but on the bright side most of the instructions that come up in Google searches will give you measurements and sources for the products in UK stores.  I had a terrible time trying to find the right stuff here in the States because most of the links were coming up with "just go down to your local blah-blah-blah store in London and buy such-and-such product that doesn't exist in the United States".  Bah.

But once you've got the right stuff, it works great!  

[danbeaver]

I think I'd just have to hope that retrobright worked. I don't like the idea of putting a coat of paint on something if it's almost guarenteed to wear off in certain areas. Is retrobright an actual product and if so where do you get it from in the uk? I've heard if referred to lots but only seem to see people using peroxide and bleach powder which apparently is dangerous to your health if you don't know what you're doing.

I've used 15% hydrogen peroxide in the lab, and 40 Volume is only 12% and used on hair, BUT it still is one hell-of-an-oxidizing chemical; 30% H2O2 can be used to put an object into sub-orbital space.  The added Bleaching powder provides a "blueing" source and may quicken the process, but mostly corrects the gray (or is it grey) that comes from the oxidation.

Is it safe? Well it will damage your skin and possibly blind you if it gets in your eyes, but so will a lot of chemicals.  Wear non-latex gloves (latex is full of double bonds) and protective eye wear, then work away from children, pets, and rednecks.

[danbeaver]

You've gotta make it.  I don't think it can be made a "commercial product" because the chemicals involved can't be shipped or somesuch, but on the bright side most of the instructions that come up in Google searches will give you measurements and sources for the products in UK stores.  I had a terrible time trying to find the right stuff here in the States because most of the links were coming up with "just go down to your local blah-blah-blah store in London and buy such-and-such product that doesn't exist in the United States".  Bah.

But once you've got the right stuff, it works great!  

If you use the 40 Volume Developing Creme (Cream) it works fine by itself, no mixing.  You can find it in Beauty Supply store and order it online (cheapest) from Amazon. The Blueing powder is an option available in the same places.  The mixing instructions are on the powder's label: 1 scoop to 2 ounces (60ml) of developer.  Mixed, it will form a blue foam overtime as oxygen is released, but kept cool and in the dark lets the reaction slow down so it is usable for the rest of the day.  It can work on a warm, sunny day is a few hours, but I like to start early in the morning and run a batch for 6 - 8 hours.

[danbeaver]

As we used to say, "Better living through Chemistry!."

[freqmax]

Wear non-latex gloves (latex is full of double bonds)

What's up with latex gloves + hydrogen peroxide ..?
Eye protection is usually also made of plastic, so they might be in trouble too..

Is gloves made of Vinyl ok?

Where to "get" Retr0bright..

[danbeaver]

What's up with latex gloves + hydrogen peroxide ..?
Eye protection is usually also made of plastic, so they might be in trouble too..

Is gloves made of Vinyl ok?

Where to "get" Retr0bright..

..........^__the TAED is not needed.
Hydrogen Peroxide attacks double bonds donating an electron to form a single bond and possibly the destruction of that part of the molecule.  Latex is as dam close to natural rubber (which is elastic because of the double bonds), just as colors are "colored" by the excitation of double bonds.  The peroxide will eat through double bonds and you will do better with vinyl.  

In the states, "Sally's Beauty Supply" or Amazon carry these and, for me, Amazon was cheaper.



You will notice the Saran Wrap in the background; to prevent drying out of the goop, a good occlusive plastic wrap will make you less likely to have to replace the goo during the day.

This is from earlier today:

[freqmax]

Why not buy one of those (IKEA) storage boxes of polypropene (PP) and stuff it inside with the appropiate chemicals?
Less wraps etc..

[danbeaver]

What ever you use, it can not block the UV waves. Both the heat and the IV waves promote the reaction.

[LoadWB]

Great stuff here.  Personally, I experimented with some horribly degraded A600s and that Krylon paint made for plastics.  I believe I used almond (it's in another thread, IIRC) and it worked beautifully, even over severe yellowing.

[royalcrown]

I think you need more A4000s

..........^__the TAED is not needed.
Hydrogen Peroxide attacks double bonds donating an electron to form a single bond and possibly the destruction of that part of the molecule.  Latex is as dam close to natural rubber (which is elastic because of the double bonds), just as colors are "colored" by the excitation of double bonds.  The peroxide will eat through double bonds and you will do better with vinyl.  

In the states, "Sally's Beauty Supply" or Amazon carry these and, for me, Amazon was cheaper.



You will notice the Saran Wrap in the background; to prevent drying out of the goop, a good occlusive plastic wrap will make you less likely to have to replace the goo during the day.

This is from earlier today:

[royalcrown]

speaking of restoration, what do you guys know about the original feet ? If I needed to make/buy them for instance ? does anyone have pics of OEM feet on big boxes ?

@ danbeaver, I see you have a few big boxes, are they your fave looks wise only vs wedges ? Never liked wedges after I saw the 1000, but I prefer the wedge/breadbox style on C= stuff.

[danbeaver]

The original feet?  For replacements the 1" rubber or felt circles at Wally World work fine. Online you can get the square black rubber feet (Jameco, MCM Electronics).  The A2000's used cork (never looked for them), the others are all black rubber. The smaller stuff used clear-ish rubber (Lowes).  The A4000T used an adjustable stand -- only The Lord and the case maker (Enlight) have a clue. I use felt so it slides easier to get to.

Boxes vs wedges: I have some wedges, but just try to find stories of a moderately expanded A1200 (or minimally expanded A600) and they read like Frankenstein's Monster. Yes I like the C128D, but still have my 1983 C64..