Full screen on 1950?

[6]

Does anyone know how to spread an 800x600 screen across a 1950 monitor?

Mine has about a 1/2 inch of unused screen on all 4 sides.

Many thanks,

6

[jeffimix]

Most CRT monitors don't cover quite all of the glass. Although that does seem a big chunk.

[Argus]

6 wrote:
Does anyone know how to spread an 800x600 screen across a 1950 monitor?

Mine has about a 1/2 inch of unused screen on all 4 sides.

Many thanks,

6

Sure, there's a little plastic door on the right side of the 1950 monitor which allows you to adjust the horizontal and vertical width, as well as other features.  The 1950 was specced to be able to show regular and overscan 15-31kHz screenmodes on the Amiga, so it is quite flexible.  I'm not sure though that you'd want to necessarily use 800x600 on it, because it'd be awfully small letters.  I use mine with 640x480 ntsc interlaced mode and it looks pretty good (though the flicker does eventually get to you even with a glare guard on it).

[6]

Argus, thanks, but I've already used those controls and that is a much coverage as I can get.  And you're right, everything is very tiny.  But 640x400 doesn't show entire web screens, which is also annoying.

Maybe the monitor is faulty?

[Argus]

6 wrote:
Argus, thanks, but I've already used those controls and that is a much coverage as I can get.  And you're right, everything is very tiny.  But 640x400 doesn't show entire web screens, which is also annoying.

Maybe the monitor is faulty?

yeah, I thought you would have already tried that. I do have a manual somewhere for the 1950.  I'll dig it out and take a look. It could be that 640x480 is the max resolution so it can only show that much of 800x600?  Give me a chance to check, I'll post tomorrow.  In the meantime, how about a cheap svga monitor?  800x600 sounds like a graphics card resolution.  What graphics hardware are you using?

- I just found my manual, here are the technical specs:

CRT:  14" (13" viewable), 90 degree deflection, 29 mm neck,       0.31mm dot pitch non-glare screen.
Display Color:
      TTL input: 8/16/64 colors
      Analog input: unlimited colors
Input Signal:
      Video  TTL level positive
             Analog 0.5-0.7Vp-p/75Ohm positive
      Sync.  Separate sync. TTL level
             Horizontal sync. Positive/Negative
             Vertical sync. Positive/Negative
             Composite sync. TTL level Positive/Negative
             Composite sync. on green video sync.
             0.3Vp-p negative
Synchronization:
       Horizontal 15KHz to 35KHz automatically
       Vertical   50Hz to 80Hz automatically
Resolution:   800 x 600 Max.
Video Bandwidth: 30MHz (-3dB)
Misconvergence:
       Center: 0.3 mm Max.
       Corner: 0.5 mm Max.
Power Source:  Switching mode power supply.
               AC 90V-132V or 180V-265V, 50Hz/60Hz
Operating Temperature: -5 C to 40 C ambient
Humidity: 10% to 85% relative, non-condensing
Weight:  12.4 Kgs (net); 14.2 Kgs (gross)
Dimensions: 370 (W) x 360 (H) x 385 (D) mm
External Controls:  Power On/Off switch, Horizontal size switch, TTL/Analog select switch, TTL Text/Graphic Mode select switch; 4 in 1 selector (display amber/green/white on blue/normal in text mode or 8 colors/16 colors/64 colors/auto in graphic mode); brightness control, Contrast control, Vertical-size control (V-size), Vertical-center control (V.-center), Vertical-hold controle (V.-hold), Horizontal-center control (H.-center)

[Ilwrath]

Argus, thanks, but I've already used those controls and that is a much coverage as I can get.

There's your answer.  You've adjusted it as good as you're going to get.  My 1950 had those borders, as well.  

You MIGHT be able to adjust them down a bit more with some of the internal controls... But they are unlabelled and I don't recall seeing any documentation on them anywhere.  (And good luck figuring them out without it.)  Also, to get to those, you'd have to open the monitor, and unless you are trained and know proper grounding procedures and know exactly what you're doing, I'd highly recommend NOT cracking a 1950 open.  The flyback in those models seems to be particularly dangerous.  I worked on my 1950 monitor once...  I thought I fully discharged it [clipped off the lead to a ground, etc] yet it still threw quite a nasty spark to a grounded plate while I was working on the device.  I'm not sure if I used a bad technique for the discharge and had been lucky while working on other monitors in the past or if something about the nature of the 1950 made it do that.... But I learned my lesson.  Monitors are only to be opened by those who truly know what they're doing.  Trust me, you DON'T want to be hit with a spark the likes of which jumped only a few inches from my hand.

Maybe the monitor is faulty?

No more so than any other C=1950.  That's just the nature of the beast.

[TjLaZer]

You might be able to tweak the monitor with a tool called MonEd. Check aminet

[Karlos]

Be careful not to overdrive your CRT (or indeed your chipset)