CD32: How do you know if it is PAL or NTSC?

[CodeHunter]

I am located in North America (USA, not Canada), and I just bought a mint condition CD32 (never taken out of its protective plastic coverings).

1) The power supply unit says: INPUT 220~240. Does it mean it is an European one?

2) The power supply main cable (going to the wall) does not feature an actual plug (three pronged or not), it feature just three loose wires. Is this normal?

3) Can I use my Amiga 500 (or A600, or even my A1200) power supply instead?

4) If it is indeed a PAL system, how can I convert it into a NTSC?

This is the original post, on Ebay but I bought it locally from him, so probably he has forgotten to take his listing off.

Please let me know! Since I have feeling this guys just defrauded me.

[CodeHunter]

2) It should have some kind of plug. How else would it plug in so you could use it?

I am not sure why it is like it, but there is no sign of tampering.

[CodeHunter]

I see. At first, yes, I was really upset that  I ended up getting a PAL system, but I am beginning to like it, it is in mint condition, even the plastic wrappings and still intact, and it is a A100 UK model. The original cardboard and carton is also in very good shape. Granted I paid a bit extra for it, but at the end of the day, I think I am owning a piece of history, nevertheless.

My Sony PVM-20l5 is a multisync native 15Khz RGB monitor (PAL and NTSC) so I am hoping I can connect it at least via S-Video. Or I can use a modern LCD monitor (have many of them laying around, DELL, etc.)

[CodeHunter]

Now I am going to be bold and ask the ultimate question (even though I haven't been able to test out my new PAL CD32 yet!) and see where would I be able to find one of these:

http://www.bigbookofamigahardware.com/bboah/product.aspx?id=1883

For connection to an RGB monitor.

[CodeHunter]

Are these two cables do the same thing, that is connect to the back of "CD32fWSI" FLOPPY DISK drive unit and connect via SCART to my RGB monitor?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amiga-CD32-Floppy-Drive-to-SCART-TV-or-monitor-Cable-lead-/330911839019

and

http://www.ebay.de/itm/AMIGA-CD32-FLOPPY-DISK-DRIVE-RGB-CABLE-DB-15-CONNECTOR-2-RCAs-READ-BEFORE-BUY-/151063957558?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item232c1d103&clk_rvr_id=493458079358

What I don't understand is how can a floppy connector, in this image:
http://www.bigbookofamigahardware.com/bboah/media/download_photos/e9e3177e-3d2b-48ee-ade9-c25ad5d27ebe.jpg

provide RGB video signal out.

[CodeHunter]

I am planning to use a PC PSU in near future for my PAL CD32, but as someone who has never seen or used a CD32, I am very eager to test it out as soon as possible, that is why running to a local store, getting a step down trasformer and a plug seems a bit faster solution for this need (as opposed to getting a PSU, and a soldering iron).

So are you saying that if I get a plug and a step down convertor my PAL brick would still not work, or is it just underpowered and would generally go bad over time? since my only concern is to plug and play this darn thing!

[CodeHunter]

Since my CD32 is a PAL system, does it mean that if I connect it to a real RGB monitor (15KHz), I will notice interlace artifacts?

I know that I can NOT connect my PAL CD32 via an RGB cable into my Commodore 1084-S D1 since this monitor is NTSC.

But I am sure my Sony PVM-20L5 which is a multisync, would be able to. The question is there is going to be noticeable interlace or not.

Here is the specification for my Sony monitor:
http://www.broadcastbaron.com/infopvm20l5.htm

[CodeHunter]

Thanks for your kind message. OK here are some of the shots of the actual unit, displaying the missing plug (naked three wires), Serial number on the box and the unit NOT matching, and the intact protective plastic film on the CD and Amiga logo:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

I don't care if the unit has been swapped, as long as it powers on and play. But the seller was not an honest person, since I have to buy the plug, transformer (or create one from PC PSU).

Is there any disadvantage of having a PAL system over NTSC?

[CodeHunter]

OK, I got a step-up transformer (I will make a PC PSU later this week), and I am about to make a lead cable for it. This is what I have done so far:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 1)
Cut a NEMA 1-15P (US) cable, so I have a two pronged plug:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 2)
Connect this plug to an adapter which goes into the step-up transformator (I know it is very messy, but I am dying to power this thing up!)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/

Step 3) I am not sure which one of the two stripped wires from my NEMA cable goes to which PAL CD32 brick wires (this is the step that I need your help please)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/



Your kind comments are appreciated!

[CodeHunter]

Oh, it is not mine, but my Sony PVM-20L5 is very similar to it, it is a native 15KHz multisync RGB monitor. I run all my MAME and other emulators on it and they look absolutely gorgeous in their RGB glory. I also have my PS1 and Sega SATURN hooked up to it (vai RGB to SCART) and they look phenomenal. Once you RGB, there is no going back!

[CodeHunter]

OK, I decided to go ahead and use a PC PSU to power up my PAL CD32 and I am about the make a cable for it:

I have already got the following parts:

"Y" Molex adapter
4 pin MALE plug

Now, I wanted to follow the guides on making this cable, and there seems to be a discrepancy between the pin layouts:

There seems to be a discrepancy between the pin layouts:

The following two (pin and chart) are from http://www.hardwarebook.info:


4 PIN DIN MALE at the Power Supply cable:



4 PIN DIN FEMALE at the CD32:




The following image (I have intentionally flipped it) is from http://www.ianstedman.co.uk:






And finally, this is what  xArtx kindly provided in this thread




 xArt's image and the hardwarebook.info match, but there is a discrepancy between those two and the ones posted on http://www.ianstedman.co.uk.




In other words, one source say that I have to connect the +5VDC (RED) to Pin 1, and +12VDC (YELLOW) to Pin 2, and finally GND to Pin 3.

And the other says: that I have to connect the +5VDC (RED) to Pin 1, and +12VDC (YELLOW) to Pin 4, and finally GND to Pin 2.

which one is the correct one?

[CodeHunter]

4 PIN DIN MALE at the Power Supply cable.


4 PIN DIN FEMALE at the CD32.

[CodeHunter]

OK, I got it to work (followed the images with actual RED and YELLOW cables attached) and it works.

Now the question is:

Whey I power it up, I can see the animation boot screen, and when I press any button on the controller, it goes to a language screen selection. I choose ENGLISH (thinking it is a PAL system), but nothing happens. If I press a button, it just resets the system and I am back to the language selection screen.

I have a game (DIGGER that came with it) inserted before or after the boot screen, but it does not load the game. I even inserted an audio CD, but it does not go any further.

What seems to be wrong?!

[CodeHunter]

Not reading the disc?  Maybe something needs to be cleaned, or the motor is stuck?  Just guessing, good luck!

No. The "CD" logo on the boot menu does do the animated spin, meaning that it can not read the disc. Mind you these are the original, genuine discs (both DIGGER and the actual audio CD, Iron Maiden). I am baffled...

EDIT:
I thought maybe the system is not getting enough power to spin the CD drive, so I went ahead and soldered a two pronged (NEMA type), plug into the original PAL brick and plugged in the setp-up converter (transformer):
The system boots up, but just like before, the CD does not spin at all. The CD access light does not lit up.

Questions:

1) Is the lens supposed be emitting some sort of light? Since I don't see anything.
2) Unlike the modern laptop CD-DVD drives, where you can feel and hear a "click" when you insert the disc, the CD32 seems to not have any "lock" mechanism, you just place the CD on the drive. Is this normal?
3) I have a feeling that the guy indeed defrauded me. After spending $475 for the system, plus $50 for the step-up transformer and other accessories, the darn thing does not work. What should I do?

[CodeHunter]

The CD drive seems to be dead. I opened my CD32 system, and could not find any loose connection or anything at all. The guy indeed defrauded me for $500.

Be it a lesson to me, to NOT buy a darn system, unless it is powered right in front of my eyes, and tested.

Is a CD drive replacement available for sale anywhere?