Which capacitor to change it?

[Retrofan]

Hello:
 
I had previously posted a thread: http://www.amiga.org/forums/showthread.php?t=52239 , but now I need something different.
 
Well, I have my Blizzard 1260 back from Amigan France. They told me very little, only that the crystal was ok (I knew that, as it's over sockets and I have another to try) and that it doesn't seem that the 060 is broken (I supossed that too as I have the right voltage there).
This is what he said the second time I asked him:
"Hi again,
 
No, clocks are good
060 too
I cannot test other IC's that are specifics.
This board is good to be trashed, sorry.
 
JJ B"
 
Finally he charged me 50€ if I wanted it back (it costed me 11€ to send it registered there).
 
As still I haven't in my mind to throw it, I taked a look at the capacitors, and the one of the photo didn't give me a response, and I would like to change it, but the thing is I don't know it's specifications to buy another.
 
Is there any diagram of the Blizzard or anybody can give me a solution?
It's the one exactly in the center of the photo, the big one soldered flat under the battery. By the way, I changed the battery just before it crashed... any relationship?
Thanks so much

[AmigaFun]

If you are refering to the silver can, that is not a capaciter, but an oscillator for the clock (time and date clock that is) I would hazzard a guess.
When you replaced the battery are you sure you did not damage the print around the pads? No solder escaped elsewhere, like tiny blobs or hair like strands of solder?

[Karlos]

Also note that certain types of solder can grow filaments that can cause shorts:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whisker_(metallurgy)

[Retrofan]

I thought that too, so I soldered again the old one, and nothing. Later soldered again the new battery and nothing. This oscillator doesn't give any response with the multimeter...

[AmigaFun]

Also make sure the bottom of the battery is not sitting on anything, and is the same size (diameter) as the old battery so as the clearence around it is sufficient.
Did you use an anti-static wrist strap etc..?
When I say no damage to the print, I mean check that the iron tip did not dig it's way into the board, as looking at pictures of the back of a Blizzard there are at least two tracks within the PCB it's self (being multi layered) near the one of the battery terminals.

[Retrofan]

It's difficult to take photos there, but here go some:
No, I didn't use anti-static strap, but touched ground everytime. There's clearance around (it's the same model of battery), and isn't sitting in nothing. If you want any other photo, please tell me...

[Retrofan]

And the oscillator should give continuity between both "legs", right?

[AmigaFun]

And the oscillator should give continuity between both "legs", right?

That I don't know mate. Just be a bit careful though with using the multimeter around the PCB when using the 'Ohm' or 'Continuity' setting. The meter will be putting out a small voltage to get the reading, and the wrong voltage in the wrong place...
In all likelyhood though, I would not have thought this is faulty.

[Retrofan]

Thanks mate, I try.
 
Anybody can tell me if it should give continuity or response with ohms? (it doesn't)
And any other has an idea of wich oscillator to search?
Any comments are welcome...

[AmigaFun]

Can you post a clear picture please of the CPU oscillator that is in the board. Lets make sure that it's correctly oriantated.

[Retrofan]

Of course. In the photo the dot in the crystal is down, to the left.
If there's too much thermal paste is because I added some yesterday and didn't clean it, but nothing special.

[AmigaFun]

Looks like it correct.
Is that paste on the PCB? You might want to remove all traces of that as I am sure it's conductive. Can someone confirm this?

[stefcep2]

If you get stuck, Per Gunnar (PG on this forum) did a great job of resurrecting my dead Apollo 1240 and upgraded it to a 1260. Strange thing was that he found 33 mhz 68040 worked with a 40 mhz (NOT 66 mhz) crystal, but I decided to get an 68060 fitted by him, although this also runs at 40 mhz, not 50 mhz.  Its still faster than a 40 mhz '040 and cooler so I'm happy.

BTW the French dude that wanted 1. 50 Euro to return it and 2. recommended you trash it sounds like he wanted it for himself!  So I reckon its fixable

[Retrofan]

Thanks so much. Please if PG you read this send me a private, I believe I will try your knowledges.
 
I have to say I only did two things before it crashed: I changed the battery and I cleaned all with Isopropyl alcohol, mostly around the CPU because it had so much thermal compound as now in the photo. That's why yesterday I put more trying to return it as it was exactly before.
Now I've cleaned it all again. Tomorrow will try to connect it again.
 
I didn't want to say anything about Amiga Center, but I told to give notices of how they work...

[stefcep2]

PM sent.