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Author Topic: A1200 LEDs schematics  (Read 6309 times)

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Offline Zac67

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Re: A1200 LEDs schematics
« Reply #14 from previous page: September 30, 2007, 09:54:27 AM »
Don't forget to adjust the Floppy LED's resistor - only one instead of two LEDs in line.

AFAIR the LEDs, you could even saw the LED in two halves, fill in the gap with some white plastic and with the trace reroute you'd have two independent lights.
 

Offline Hodgkinson

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Re: A1200 LEDs schematics
« Reply #15 on: September 30, 2007, 06:24:02 PM »
"Don't forget to adjust the Floppy LED's resistor - only one instead of two LEDs in line."

Already done that, but cheers anyway. 270R Seems to give a nice even brightness from the new rectangular yellow LED's compared to the existing yellow LED's.

Re trace re-routing, all that’s necessary is to cut the track in between the two LED’s, ground the side of this cut track that connects to the LED that goes directly to the on-board resistor, and solder a limiting resistor to the other side on which the tail lead will connect to (And secure the wire properly so tracks don't get torn off...)
Unfortunately, cutting tracks with a old hacksaw blade is tricky, and I caught a track nearby (Not enough to break the track, just took the top surface off) so its now covered, along with the split track, with a blob of superglue to prevent corrosion.
Also, the original ground pad for the series LED chain has begun to lift off of the board, so I’ve scratched back some of the coating on the track just before the pad so the whole area can be reinforced with solder.

Fortunately, I’ve found a wire with the correct crimp for the LED PCB header plug, so it looks like im going to try and find all the correct SMD's and make a good job of this little project.

You might have noticed by now that im paranoid about even the tiniest of mistakes... :-)

The plastic fill will be a piece of white 2mm thick acrylic, composed of a 7mm by 7mm square section at the top, followed by a 5mm long symmetrical taper down to 3mm width at the bottm to act as a stand-off to ensure the correct height of the LED's. I'll *make use of* the local schools laser cutter tomorrow and churn 9 off at once (Just in case I want to mod 9 A1200's...)

Hodgkinson.
Main A1200D: WB3.0, 3.1 ROMs, 2GB HDD, Blizzard 1230IV (64MB RAM + FPU) and a whole load of custom heatsinks... :flame:
 

Offline Eclipse

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Re: A1200 LEDs schematics
« Reply #16 on: September 30, 2007, 11:14:31 PM »
Hi,
 Go to RS components website and type in "Lightbar" as the search phrase.
 

Offline orangeTopic starter

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Re: A1200 LEDs schematics
« Reply #17 on: April 06, 2008, 09:56:38 AM »
well, I finally made that PCB with LEDs. It works, but for some reason hard drive LED is always ON (but not much), is that normal? (when there is activity it shines a bit more)
FDD is ok.
thanks
Better sorry than worry.
 

Offline Eriond

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Re: A1200 LEDs schematics
« Reply #18 on: April 06, 2008, 02:23:31 PM »
Try adjusting the series resistor. A higher value vill get rid of the dim off state, the drawback is that the on condition will probably be less bright too.

Odd anomaly though... could be that your LED driver is damaged? Do you know the reason why the LED board was missing in the first place? Maybe someone was tring to do some repair work? (like a glowing HDD LED... :-D )

@Hodgkinson & Zac67, how about this:
* Beginning from the bottom of the component (where the solder pins are); cut the LED almost apart, leaving only the top 1-2mm. Use a thin blade or a Dremel disk.
* Then paint the whole thing black, except from the top and solder pins (use masking tape, and dip the whole thing in paint).

This method should give:
* an unchaged look compared to an unmodified LED
* The same color on both sides
* No need to buy/find LEDs that match the original dimensions

I will give it a try myself. Stand by for pictures...

/Eriond
 

Offline Hodgkinson

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Re: A1200 LEDs schematics
« Reply #19 on: April 06, 2008, 04:55:00 PM »
A dim LED when it should be off doesn't sound good. Are you sure that everything’s wired in properly? It sounds like the kind of fault that you might get if a resistor was in the wrong place or a ground rail was disconnected somewhere.

@Eriond: Should be interesting. Keep us posted :-D

EDIT: Oh, I uploaded a photo of how mine turned out ages ago. Must of forgot to mention it. It's here anyway.
Main A1200D: WB3.0, 3.1 ROMs, 2GB HDD, Blizzard 1230IV (64MB RAM + FPU) and a whole load of custom heatsinks... :flame: