Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Author Topic: What works best for cooling a room - fan pointing in or fan pointing out?  (Read 3604 times)

Description:

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Floid

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Join Date: Feb 2003
  • Posts: 918
    • Show all replies
Depends, of course.

Pointing the fan *at* you will always feel better in the short term because it takes advantage of that natural evaporative cooling system you've inherited.  If the air in the rest of the house is colder and can actually get up to you, you've a hope of a better overall improvement exhausting, though if not, the best is one of those $15 dual window fans with each independently reversible, so one can intake, one can output, at and least you're at parity with the outdoor temperature.

Or you could buy an air conditioner!
 

Offline Floid

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Join Date: Feb 2003
  • Posts: 918
    • Show all replies
Quote

that_punk_guy wrote:
I guess the ideal solution is to suck air in at one end of the room and blow it out of the other.


Actually, since it all works on pressure, one intake and one output is roughly equal to a single fan.  If there's enough space for the air to move under its own pressure.  When you have only one window, the exhaust/intake arrangement at least keeps you from blowing back in the hot air you've just exhausted, or vice versa, sort of.  Maybe. ;-)
 

Offline Floid

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Join Date: Feb 2003
  • Posts: 918
    • Show all replies
One of the things I've been playing with is water as thermal mass... though the filled Arizona bottle collection only approximates a 10 gallon fish tank, and some of them have been dyed black, since it was more of a concern to try for a heat collector in winter.

It sort of helps, but the problem is keeping the water shaded, since once solar-heated (of course, turns out the shelf I'm using gets more sun in summer than winter) it takes a cold day to bleed the collected heat off.  [If you're a true hippie, you want something more like 55 gallon drums or repurposed chunks of conduit, with anode rods so they don't rust out, and a floor strong enough to support them.]

Another interesting thing to note is that external shutters/shades/blinds are infinitely more efficient than the internal versions, which tend to act as solar heaters in the gap between themselves and the glass...  I've toyed with the idea of cutting down the perforated shields they put over fluorescent lights in drop ceilings (the sort that are basically a white plastic grid, deep enough that, hung vertical, the edges would shade/reflect away a good chunk of incident light) and suction-cupping them or hanging them in front of windows outside, which might not look so bad, while cutting down the amount of energy that makes it in by a good fraction... Never managed to bother implementing it.
 

Offline Floid

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Join Date: Feb 2003
  • Posts: 918
    • Show all replies
For what it's worth, we cool an entire apartment (when it truly needs it) with a 1.8kw AC that runs on far less than a 50% duty cycle after the place has cooled down.  *If* your local power is nuclear, there's theoretically no reason not to if you can afford it... except for the fact that the nukes and grid can't keep up with the load and they still end up having to drag out the 'emergency' dino-burning generators.

(Of course, the nuke plants do dump waste heat, too, hmm...)

---

[Insert memory of being 'kind' and setting the AC up to 76 after the first 'blip' that heralded last summer's collapse... of course, if everyone else had done the same, I gather we probably still would've been screwed.]