Setting up Amiga 2000 w/Video Toaster

[fordp]

Recently I've been trying to get my Video Toaster working. I acquired it a while back, and finally decided to start the process of getting it working. I thought I almost had...

...but it seems, now that I've got it isntalled, and the Toaster 4.2 software installed, when I start things up, one two things happens:

• The Video goes crazy for a moment, Black screen, with various color jitters, I get get the NewTek Toaster Logo, and then it drops back to a very out of sync Workbench with a dialog reading "Video Toaster Not Responding."
• The Video simply goes black, and doesn't recover.

To repair either of these I need to power cycle.

I did a bunch of research, and followed through the information I found here, http://www.rabayjr.com/Amiga/Flyer_Faq/toaster/tnr.html but to no avail.

When passing a signal into Input #1, I do get a picture out of both the Monitor and Program outputs. And that is clear, except for the moments when the Amiga's Video out seems to be switching modes. Also, as the NewTek logo appears and the Amiga Output, I get a a ghostly logo on the monitor, which drifts off the screen in a few seconds.

This is the only Toaster I've ever owned, and the first I've ever tried to use it,so it is quite likely I'm doing something wrong, but I'm not sure what that is at this point, so I'm turning to the experts here.

FWIW, the Machines configuration is:

• A2000, Rev 6.2MB
• Indivision ECS
• GVP HC+8 Fully Populated.
• ASDG Dual Serial Board
• GVP Combo 030 @ 50Mhz, 4Mb on board, 4Mb SIMM (8Mb Total)
• SCSI PCD-50D with 4Gb CF
• HP CD-Writer

Important Note: When I tested the voltage across chassis to ERR1 on the Video Toaster, I got -3.41 VDC, regardless of the setting of the variable cap CF. It did tweak the video, but had no overall change in card behavior.

[fordp]

I'm not a video Toaster expert, but I can give you few pointers:
1. Try to clean the VT board contacts make sure it's clean, also inspect the board around the chips for any corrosion.
2. Try to run it with out the Indivision ECS, or at least run it in 15khz NTSC mode using the 23 pin video connector (I'm not sure how VT reacts with Indivision ECS)
3. Have a camera input on IN #1 for a good sync, not VCR.
4. Get 2MB Chip ram for best results.

More of an expert than me, I assure you. As for your suggestions:

1. I've pulled, inspected, and cleaned the board with no effect. Of course I've pulled the board again, so it doesn't hurt to check it again.
2. Yes, I'm concerned the Indivision ECSm ay be the issue also. I did test it with an A520 on the DB23, but the Indivision ECS was still installed. I guess that's a good next step.
3. Is a video signal on IN#1 required for starting it up? I've used nothing, the Composite output of my A500, and the DVD Player I've got down here. From what I've read the DVD Player should be stable enough, but it won't hurt to try a camera.
4. On my wish list. Both my A2000, and My A500 that has been following me around for 20+ years would very much like 2MB chip.

[fordp]

Today's Update:
- Re-inspected the Toaster, cleaned the contacts.
- Pulled the Indivision ECS (which makes me sad)
- Pulled out the entire Drive/PS Cage.
- Set WB Colors to 2
- Used both Composite, and my A520 for Amiga Video
- Fed my IN#1 with my Canon HV20, as well as my DVD Player.

In all cases, I get as far as "Please Standby", then a black screen with some flickering on the the top few lines before dropping back to Workbench with a "Toaster Not Responding"

Also tested with the Toaster 4.0 SFW to the same results.

Re-checked the Voltage @ ERR1, an am still reading -3.4V, which is well outside of the expected -2.1V I read I should have.

[fordp]

Did u do the Autohue?

I really think its the INdivision throwing the sync off. I would bet on this.

Tried Autohue yesterday, It didn't work, I believe I got a 'Switcher Software Not Running issue', though I don't actually recall just now. From what I've understood, which may well be a mis-understanding on my part, I need to get further along than I am now in order to get Autohue to work.

[fordp]

Have you tried this yet?

http://www.rabayjr.com/Amiga/Flyer_Faq/flyer/cfnew.html

Yes, infact that is the page that I used a reference for the voltage at ERR1. I'm not sure how much swing there can be there, but but I get a consistent read of -3.4 with a fluctuation of +/-.1V per power cycle regardless of CF's setting. That strikes me as not quite right.

Toasters are sensitive to power issues. If you have a 20+year old power supply that's never had a refurb, it's a fair bet it can't handle all the hardware you have installed there along with the toaster.

Plaz

Indeed, that is near the top of my list of things to upgrade on this machine anyway. No time like the present I suppose. I was considering upgrading it to a PicoPSU-160, adapter cable, and moving J300. However, I'm not sure if the P/S provided tick signal is relevant or not to proper Toaster operation.

[fordp]

Hmm the toaster board could be "bad" make sure all the boards are connecting properly , iirc there are 3 boards that comprise the toaster card. Also be sure that the board is insulated and not touching metal.

Did u do the Autohue?

I really think its the INdivision throwing the sync off. I would bet on this.

Yes, three, boards. The main, and two daughter boards. All of them are connected good. No sign of anything shorting, against the case, power supply, drivers, or anything else. I've add an insulator when testing, and yesterday without the drive/PS mount in the case, there was nothing for it to short against.


For clarification, Auto-hue through the same toaster not responding errors.

[fordp]

btw those boards you mentioned should all function just fine in a toaster machine. Also, I doubt its PSU issues. Those a2000 psu last a very long time, they are well made unlike modern ones.

That is my understanding as well. I've seen several toaster systems with the same boards in them in fact, I've just never used one of them. Pretty sure the last toaster system I used was in 1993, and I sure wasn't allowed to go peeking around in side it. I have my doubts its the PSU also, for the same reason. The things were built like tanks. My original plans to replace the PSU was purely based on reducing fan noise.

The 030 accelerator adds memory in the 32-bit address space. The HC adds it in the 16-bit address space. You should have no problems with these cards working together, and a total of 16MB of fast ram. Although you may want to remove a few of them just to test for a weak power supply issue.

This is exactly the case. The argument could be made that I should pull the HC+8 anyway, and just get another 8Mb for the Combo030. But GVP SIMMs aren't the most readily available of things. (And also, 16Mb of 32-bit + 8 Mb of 16-bit doesn't sound all that bad either.)

That said, my update is thus. Set up the system with just the Combo030, and the toaster in it. Pulled the ADSG, HC+8, and Indivision. Tested with both the
stock power supply, and a 250W ATX I had on hand. No change in how the toaster responds.

The very ancient ROM (3.07?) on the HC+8 means I can't boot my CF it seems, so I need to keep the Combo030. Basically it seems that in my minimal bootable configuration, I get "Video Toaster Not Responding".

I'm leaning towards a bad toaster card. Not sure what I can do about that, I've heard that NewTek actually does still do RMA work on old cards, though I've not looked into it, and while I'd applaud supporting the device after so many years, I'm sure not going to rely on it.

In the meantime, I've returned my system to its normal state sans Toaster and am contemplating next steps. I'm open to any ideas. It would be nice to see the toaster working, but I've got decades w/o having one, a bit longer isn't going to kill me.

Thanks for all your help thus far!

[fordp]

Over the years I've had two toaster systems go fritz. Refurbed the power supplies, toasters all better. Agreed, 2000 psu's were well made. But they still contain eletrolytic capacitors which have a limited life span. To the 2000's credit, the old PS still manages most things ok even with a basket full of dried up crusty capacitors.

Plaz

Electrolytic's are pretty unavoidable in a PSU, but if I had to choose between dried up and crusty, or exploding and leaky, I suppose I'll take dried up and crusty.

While you were posting, I was posting, I actually did test the system with a PC power supply last night. I'm not convinced that PSU, despite much newer is any less suspect than the Amiga one. I'll revisit it when I have new PSU on hand, hopefully next week sometime.

I built a A3000 toaster/flyer system with a spare PC case/power supply with an adapter. I didn't have any issue with the toaster using the PS supply. But I'm not positive if that's relevant to your setup.

Plaz

I think it is. I was concerned if the PSU's Tick signal was required by the toaster, or if letting the system generate it by flipping J300 (Required when using an ATX PSU) would be sufficient. Using the ATX last night, certainly didn't change the behavior I'm seeing. So I suspect the PSU Tick signal isn't relevant where the toaster is concerned.

Unrelated, I've been contemplating finding a spare A3000 case, and putting a PC in it. The opposite of your setup.

My Thank's again.

[fordp]

@DWV, @mbrantley Thanks for the confirmation. I'd read as much, but never heard anyone mention having done it. Will make any future testing simpler.

@DWV, the board is one the right way around, based on every image I've ever seen, and your comment. I'd expect having it the wrong way about might let the magic smoke out... Shame about them not doing repairs anymore, but I can't say I'm surprised, I was quite surprised when I saw they still were even a few years back. They certainly went above and beyond what I would have expected, can't fault them for moving away from a product a few decades after its release..

@SACC-guy, I completely agree. Isolate any outliers than might be throwing off your test results. I came into this not knowing what my test-results should be, just that clearly mine were wrong. Seems I've got a better picture of it now thanks to all of you here.

@Oldsmobile_Mike, sadly it is my only toaster. I've a friend with a really nice 4000 Toaster/Flyer setup in his closet I've been trying to get my hand on for a few years, but no luck on that front. Not seen one quite that cheap, but I'll keep my eyes open, seems that is the most likely problem at this point.

[fordp]

Resolved. Or something like it. It turned out that the problem was indeed a bad toaster. I managed to get my hands on a brand-spanking-new-to-me-but-actually-24-year-old Video Toaster. And it works.

As per suggestions. I do need to run with a 2-color Workbench, but other than that, its working great.

Thanks for all you help!