New Amiga 4000! - But what about the battery?

[Buzzfuzz]

Eep! Scared! I gotta take the motherboard outta the case for this right?

No, you can do this with the board in place.
Just genteelly cut it or wiggle it out.
Then do some cleaning.

[Buzzfuzz]

I've done 2 4000 boards neither if which I desoldered, the legs if not corroded are long enough to snip high up, clean, flux and solder a nimh compatible replacement in its place. nimh work fine. In the UK I bought mine from Maplins also Digikey/Farnell did one.
 
http://www.maplin.co.uk/pcb-mounted-nimh-batteries-30958?ordercode=JC85G one of these if I remember right

No no no no :roflmao:
Still havent learned the trick ha ?
 
Regardless of the legs being in or out, solder wires to it and place the battery between the front metal and front case, near the leds, but not inside the case anymore.
That battery, even if it is 2032, always on the front between the metal and the plastic.
If your smart, you will use a thermoplastic connector so the red and black wire can be used again, while you solder wires also to the battery.

[Buzzfuzz]

I have some CPU cleaner somewhere

No No No ....
 

By Zetr0;
In a nutshell - you need to neutralize the acid(s).
 
 
Whats actually happened?
 
As we know the battery leak eats the copper as it reacts with oxygen, however this leaves a cu-sulphate that reacts stronger with copper thus making a syndromic effect - the more copper that is eaten, the stronger the acid becomes.
 
 
What do we need to do?
 
To get past this you will need to destablize neutralize this acidic effect, there are many expensive methods you can use but the best would be to use an organic acid (acetic) compound like Spirit Vinigar or Lemon Juice.
 
The latter smells better, where as the former make you want to reach for the salt and ketchup to put on the chips
 
 
How we need to do it =)
 
You need to work the area with an acetic acid, this will destablize the cu-sulphates and neutralize the original battery acid. I use an electric tooth brush and have it - just dont put to much pressure on it.
 
Give this acetic acid a few miniutes to work (say about 15 minutes) and then its time for a proper clean - you should use IPA (isopropyl Alcohol) or pre-diluted car-screenwash (2.5Ltrs for £1 from pound land).
 
You have to use a little more of the the car-screen wash compaired to the IPA, but its so cheap its still on the plus side =)
 
 
Cleaning: not to do this is NOT an option!
 
Now leave to dry, for a good 8 hours in an airing cupboard (would recommend 24hours) - firstly dab up what you can with a kitchen paper like bounty - especially if you have been working around capacitors you MUST leave the board to dry properly - one day isn't going to hurt.
 
Capcitor legs will promote the capiliary action of fluids and essentiall suck them up into the electrolite. Should the caps be damp when turning the computer (even a miniscule) the fluid turns into steam and this can (and does) break the capacitor electrolite - should that this happen, you would then have to replace the capcitor.
 
This is a much lesser problem when working with more expensive acid destablizers and pcb cleaners as they are formulated to dry quickly.
 
 
hope that ramble helps.