Which capacitor to change it?

[Retrofan]

Hello:
 
I had previously posted a thread: http://www.amiga.org/forums/showthread.php?t=52239 , but now I need something different.
 
Well, I have my Blizzard 1260 back from Amigan France. They told me very little, only that the crystal was ok (I knew that, as it's over sockets and I have another to try) and that it doesn't seem that the 060 is broken (I supossed that too as I have the right voltage there).
This is what he said the second time I asked him:
"Hi again,
 
No, clocks are good
060 too
I cannot test other IC's that are specifics.
This board is good to be trashed, sorry.
 
JJ B"
 
Finally he charged me 50€ if I wanted it back (it costed me 11€ to send it registered there).
 
As still I haven't in my mind to throw it, I taked a look at the capacitors, and the one of the photo didn't give me a response, and I would like to change it, but the thing is I don't know it's specifications to buy another.
 
Is there any diagram of the Blizzard or anybody can give me a solution?
It's the one exactly in the center of the photo, the big one soldered flat under the battery. By the way, I changed the battery just before it crashed... any relationship?
Thanks so much

[Retrofan]

I thought that too, so I soldered again the old one, and nothing. Later soldered again the new battery and nothing. This oscillator doesn't give any response with the multimeter...

[Retrofan]

It's difficult to take photos there, but here go some:
No, I didn't use anti-static strap, but touched ground everytime. There's clearance around (it's the same model of battery), and isn't sitting in nothing. If you want any other photo, please tell me...

[Retrofan]

And the oscillator should give continuity between both "legs", right?

[Retrofan]

Thanks mate, I try.
 
Anybody can tell me if it should give continuity or response with ohms? (it doesn't)
And any other has an idea of wich oscillator to search?
Any comments are welcome...

[Retrofan]

Of course. In the photo the dot in the crystal is down, to the left.
If there's too much thermal paste is because I added some yesterday and didn't clean it, but nothing special.

[Retrofan]

Thanks so much. Please if PG you read this send me a private, I believe I will try your knowledges.
 
I have to say I only did two things before it crashed: I changed the battery and I cleaned all with Isopropyl alcohol, mostly around the CPU because it had so much thermal compound as now in the photo. That's why yesterday I put more trying to return it as it was exactly before.
Now I've cleaned it all again. Tomorrow will try to connect it again.
 
I didn't want to say anything about Amiga Center, but I told to give notices of how they work...

[Retrofan]

Thank you very much. I've sent him a message.
I've tried to ask to Amiga France about the oscillator, but still haven't got an answer.
 
The thing is I have in mind it has to be that. Would like to know which is.

[Retrofan]

Fantastic. The Amiga Center guy says "i am sure it is not dead, but i have if youwant". I will buy one from him if he doesn't ask for 500€...
 
I've found one place that talks about how to test them: http://www.electronicrepairguide.com/how-to-test-crystal.html,
 
I have faith to solve the problem around 3%, but I will try anyway.
 
I believe I will change it and if it doesn't work I will send it to someone who knows (not who knows More, as I haven't idea of electronics).

[Retrofan]

I'd like to add a thing: I've tried the suspect oscillator with the multimeter in the hFE position (I know it's to test transistors). I understand I can remember a pig searching for truffles in a minefield, as I have no idea of electronics. Really I know I should try it in the Hertz position, but my multimeter hasn't.
The thing is I have a Hawk ramboard and it has a clock oscillator too (at least it looks the same).
I have tried the Hawk crystal in the hFE position, and it changed between 0.00 and 0.01. That's something! The one of the Blizzard doesn't change: always 0.00 . Doesn't seem it´s faulty?
 
Edit: I have to say the Hawk keeps working right...
A question: The Blizzard will be better than the Hawk Ramboard? ...That's a joke!
If you want to answer, please use the phone on the left... :roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:

[Retrofan]

Thanks. I prefer to wait to receive the crystal from Amiga France. They sent me one yesterday. I will try it when it arrives and will let you know (around next friday). I don't know if I could break something if i try it in the Hawk (perhaps they aren't exacly the same).

[Retrofan]

Hi:
I'm going to look the Blizzard under a microscope when it arrives:

It's USB 20X - 400X Digital Microscope Video Camera, which I've bought at Ebay for 41,95€ with the sending cost. Still have to receive it.
This are the results:

Effect:

 
I only changed the battery as I supposed it had to be old. No, there's no corrosion around it.
 

About the thermal paste, so I must take it all underneath the CPU? Won't it get hot? It came working with all that thermal paste under it...

[Retrofan]

Ok, I've cleaned it all with Isopropyl alcohol and a long brush. Tomorrow will try it...

[Retrofan]

I've tried the Blizzard and nothing. Now I'm thinking about changing the CPU. To desolder it, what would be better, to heat the back side of it with a heatgun or to go pin by pin desoldering with a desoldering wire, flux and a desoldering pump?
 
Edit:
Well, I've been searching and for what I know with a desoldering pump it's very difficult to take out all, and with a heatgun the risk is to desolder other things at the same time, which can fall. So I will buy and try with a desoldering iron with sucker all-in-one.

[Retrofan]

Thanks. Indeed I had bought previously a socket for it, but was thinking about buying the 060. I've just bought an MC 68060RC50, 71E41J .
I get perfect soldering points with my JBC soldering iron, but always has been difficult to desolder things. Not sure if the desoldering iron will have enought with 30w or perhaps must search only for 40w...:madashell:
 
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