Blizzard IV 1230 MK won't work

[rkauer]

 You can use isopropyl alcohol to clean the contacts (the same "magic potion" found on floppy-disk/CD cleaners).

 Rub some with a smooth cloth.

 That's it.:-)

[rkauer]

 I'm pretty sure you had fried the coprocessor (40Mhz) when inserted it in board (buy a 50 MHz version, '882 are very sensible to overheat).

 Did you install some kind of FPU library on your Workbench (in that case, remove the lib will do the trick)?

 Try also remove the battery from the board for a while to "erase" it's memory (I'm noticed the batt is soldered)...

[rkauer]

 If I was you, I'll toss away those underpowered original PSUs and use this hack instead:



 Here is the external view:



 Where:

 Preto = Black
 Vermelho = Red
 Marrom = Brown
 Amarelo* = Yellow
 Branco = White

 * The guy who makes this make a BAD mistake. He puts the shield on the +5V line.

 Instead of this, put the yellow wire (shield) on ground (with the black wire). Do not put the shield wire in anything else (like the PSU ground itself).

 Any old peecee AT-PSU works.

 Just one more tip: peecees PSUs must have the "power good" (PG on the board) wired to +5V line in order to properly work.

[rkauer]

sirkope wrote:
Amiga 600 has a power supply for 5V/4.5A, probably I should buy one?

All my a500 PSU working well so I'm regret to cut the plug from it. Otherwise it's hard to find a kind of plug.

Koniconn has one 171-4405, Beckwith Electronics sells a Power Dynamics DP-215 ones.

 You don't need to cut anything, simply dessolder the cable from the orig. PSU and solder it  to the new one.

 Works like a charm. :-D

[rkauer]

 The +12V from the RGB port is "protected" by a resistor. Currents over 30mA can drop the voltage too much.

 Catch the +12V from another source (paralell port, external floppy, etc).

 +5V is protected in same way. But IIRC, the pin can supply up to 100mA. But with voltage drops (the very same as +12V line).

 Feed your external devices in other way, I advice you.