Suprise: not a standard floppy on the Commodore A1011.

[BLTCON0]

These are Chinon FB-354 rev D drives, they integrate the motor flip-flop and NAND gates IIRC.
If you have a standard external drive (i.e. one where the drive, if removed, will instantly work as an internal amiga drive), you can use the adapter PCB to accomodate a standard FB-354 drive.
You'll have to check if it fits, however, as space can be tight inside the A1011. Also, since nearly all external drives use slim (1") drives, they usually only provide +5V on the internal connector. So you'll have to modify that part too to cater for the +12V the FB-354 also requires.

[BLTCON0]

Every 1011 I have uses a different physical connection than regular internal drives.  It is more compact and I have not worked out the pin-out.  I discovered this will attempting to replace the internal drive with FZ-357 mechanisms to make an HD 1011.

The pinout is exactly that of the external DB-23 connector.
It's a 24-pin dual-row header, with the 24-th pin being a NC.
The same arrangement seems to be universally used on generic external drives, anyway (there's a good reason for that).

In essence, the special FB-354 revD inside the A1011 is the result of the integration of a standard FB-354 and a generic adapter board for external drives.

[BLTCON0]

Thanx. I have looked on ebay but I have not found anything... i tried different combination of words but... nothing.
Do you have a link... somewhere?

Unfortunately you won't know if an external drive uses a generic adapter board before you open the casing and take a look at the PCB. The plain white ones usually do, but that's still not 100% guaranteed.
For example, the Datalux SV-702 external drive came with either a generic board + standard "Amiga" drive or a custom board + custom Epson SMD-400 drive (probably a variant used in older synthies).

Alternatively, you can use one of those Gotek adapter boards, provided they implement the MTR signal (search ebay for "Gotek adapter"), assuming it'll fit in the A1011 case.
You'll still have to rewire the (most likely missing) +12V line, desolder the DB23 connector and craft some wiring.