Just got my first A2000! :)

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

It's very much a work in progress still.  Here's a pic of the PSU while I was testing the new fan.  

Of course it looks like AmigaKit is sold out again on the Indivision ECS.  Rats, and they just got some in a few days ago.  Should've ordered sooner!  :-/

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

Amiga 2000 restoration project coming along nicely.  Still needs a lot of work but at least it's running again.  Yes, it is packed full of blue LED's, and the trackball lights up red when you spin it.  Dork-dork-dork.  

Unfortunately it seems that even after cleaning the heck out of my motherboard and installing one of those AmigaKit coin battery adapters, it's not keeping time.  I can set the time and save it, but when I turn it off and back on again the time just comes up to whatever it was that I originally set it at (like it's stuck in the past), or occasionally some random time.  I'm going to try to check it a little more, but on the off-chance does anyone have a 6.4 or 6.5 motherboard with no battery damage they'd like to sell?  It can be completely stripped of chips because I've already got all those, but an undamaged late revision would be nice, or tips to repair this one?  I've got a spare 4.4 that works but would rather not step back to such an older one just for a working clock, LOL.    Thanks!!

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

Thanks everyone!

@gertsy - I ordered two of those batteries today.  Fingers crossed that that's all I need!

@Lozspd4 - Ugh, I hope I don't have that problem!  Although I'll admit to leaving the soldering iron on there a bit long, I wanted to make sure it was solid.    On the bright side I ordered two of the AmigaKit battery kits "just in case"(TM), so I have a spare.

@Tenacious - schematics would be great!  Do you have them somewhere I could download, or can you email them to me at ******@**********?  The only ones I've been able to find online so-far are ones for the A4000, which have been less than helpful.  :-/

If the replacement battery doesn't solve the problem it sounds like it's time to pull the board again and check the trace going from the battery to the clock chip.  I'm assuming it's just one line somewhere, and once I've identified that I should just be able to measure for 3V at whatever pin on the clock chip, correct?  And if I'm getting less than that, or no voltage, and the AmigaKit kit isn't the problem, I can just run a bypass wire?  Seems simple enough. 

**shakes my fist at the sky in the direction of C= designers who went with these leaky batteries, LOL**

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

On an interesting side note, I notice the PCD-60B card reader in my A500 is getting about 2100K/sec with a 133x Transcend 4GB card in a GVP sidecar, and the PCD-60B in my A2000 is only getting about 1700K/sec with a 600x Transcend 8GB card hooked up directly to my 040 board.  Still need to troubleshoot that down and check my MaxTransfer and buffers, etc., as I'd expected the 2000 to be much faster.  Of course my 040 card is also running an older version of the GVP ROM, just received the latest ROM from TJLazer today, need to put that in and see if it helps.  It did in my A500.  

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

Got it, thanks!    That definitely will help if I need to start tearing her back down.

Another side note - it looks U801 Buster has a pin labeled "_BEER"?  Oh you silly, silly C= engineers.  

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

Indivision ECS arrived today so I figured I'd check the battery while I had her open again.  If I understand the diagram Tenacious sent correctly this is a fairly simple circuit (keeping in mind I'm no electrical engineer).  Voltage should flow from the two positive terminals on the battery through the resistor at R803 and into the U801 clock chip.  I'm assuming the clock chip needs 3V, or close to it.  Actually the factory battery is marked as 3.6V on the diagram.

So with my multimeter I measured 2.9 volts directly between battery positive terminal and case ground, and 2.63 between R803 and ground.  If I understand correctly this is telling me I've got some degradation in the voltage along those tracks, but not much.  So logically thinking, If I put in one of those higher output batteries I should be fine, what do you guys think?  Or am I just totally off-base?  Haha.  

*disclaimer - am sure I'll wind up frying something!  

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

Well, no love from my A2000 clock yet.  The new LIR batteries arrived (thankfully I ordered two - one arrived DOA!), but the other read a solid 3.6V on the battery itself, and 3.31V at the resistor.  I checked this on my spare A2000 board and noticed there's also about a .3V drop between those two points, so I'm sort of thinking this is normal?

Anyhow, set the clock and left it off overnight, and it's still showing the wrong time.  I'm suspecting my clock chip must be toast, any thoughts?  I'm not really adept enough with soldering to replace the clock chip, wonder if it's time to ship it off to someone else?  *sigh*  Should I check pin 9 for continuity to ground?  Am not 100% positive on which is pin 9, I think it's the top-right when facing the front of the system?

I also tried a variety of "setclock reset" and "setclock save" commands from the shell, just in case it was something in WB that was knackered.

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Also, why the bloody he** is OS3.9 so slow?  I don't remember it taking close to 3 minutes to boot up on my old A1200 back in the day, and I sure didn't have an 040 in my A1200!  Icons load at a glacial pace, and all I've got is a fresh install with all the Boing Bags, Visual Prefs, Full Palette (to use the Rebel 16-color palette), FBlit, and BlazeWCP.  I've already removed AmiDock.  Seems like the more patches I put in to try to speed things up the slower it goes, might have to revert back to MagicWB icons, LOL.  :p

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

Haven't had much time for this, still no love.  With power off pin 18 is showing exactly the same voltage that I'm getting at the resistor (so the chip is getting power), and pin 9 is showing continuity to both case ground and Batt negative.  It's a pretty high resistance, but I compared it with my spare A2K motherboard and the measurements are about the same.

I also checked the positive sides of 811 and 812, not exactly sure what those components do but I know they're getting power.

Will try to find time to check more pins soon, taking the drive sled out over and over is getting pretty old, LOL.  :p

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

Also zero resistance between Batt Negative terminal and case ground.  I'm checking easy stuff first, LOL.  

If I do have to replace the clock chip at least I see plenty of them on ebay... think I'll socket it.  

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

Try reseating the main chip, may be a bit loose/poor contact.

Main chip - U801 - is soldered directly to the board.  Wish it were that easy!  If I wind up feeling daring enough to replace it, I'm going to socket it.  18-pin sockets are only .50 cents on ebay.  :p