Ars Technica has a very comprehensive review. It addressed nearly all of my concerns - most of the new behaviors can be turned off. The invisible scrollbars was something I was worried about (makes no sense for a desktop system), but fortunately you can make them permanently visible.
I haven't bought Lion yet, but I'll probably test it on an external drive or spare partition first. Don't want to overwrite 10.6 just yet, especially due to elimination of PPC emulation.
I'm excited about the full-screen applications - from what I've read it seems like Apple finally grasps the concept of Amiga-style public screens.
