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Amiga computer related discussion => Amiga Hardware Issues and discussion => Topic started by: outlawal2 on April 11, 2018, 10:53:03 PM
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Title says it all.. I have seen this mentioned all over the place for years and it just hit me that I *think* my A1200 has been recapped but not really certain.. And don't know how you can tell..
Any wisdom from the AMIGA GURUS here?
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Unless it has a sticker from ASCII assume it wasn't recapped. ;)
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Title says it all.. I have seen this mentioned all over the place for years and it just hit me that I *think* my A1200 has been recapped but not really certain.. And don't know how you can tell..
Any wisdom from the AMIGA GURUS here?
Unless you do it yourself you wont know for certain.
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Take some good pictures of it and I will let you know. I can tell by the soldering and the brand of the caps used in it. The clearer the better
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Unless it has a sticker from ASCII assume it wasn't recapped. ;)
:hammer:
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Take some good pictures of it and I will let you know. I can tell by the soldering and the brand of the caps used in it. The clearer the better
Thanks for the reply (And thanks to ALL replies by the way)
Any particular part of the board I should be capturing? (Sorry, I am not an electrical guy so I really don't know what I am looking for)
Just a decent pic of the entire board or is there a location in particular to zoom on?
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Thanks for the reply (And thanks to ALL replies by the way)
Any particular part of the board I should be capturing? (Sorry, I am not an electrical guy so I really don't know what I am looking for)
Just a decent pic of the entire board or is there a location in particular to zoom on?
the area close to the rf modulator, the area close to the audioports..
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the area close to the rf modulator, the area close to the audioports..
Thanks!
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OK pics attached..
Thanks for the help
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OK pics attached..
Thanks for the help
100% sure its never been recap. Its got the originals in it.
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I should have thought of this sooner.
I have enclosed a photo of my NTSC A1200 near the RF modulator. I can see that my caps have different values, although there are similar in appearance. This is from a Rev 1D.3 board.
Am I already recapped?
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I should have thought of this sooner.
I have enclosed a photo of my NTSC A1200 near the RF modulator. I can see that my caps have different values, although there are similar in appearance. This is from a Rev 1D.3 board.
Am I already recapped?
Same values, just diffrent voltage. Its okay for voltage to be a bit higher or lower, as long as its within the range still. The uF no, needs to be the same. You look to have the stock caps in an NTSC model too. The Shoei ones are at least.
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Sorry, I mistyped that. Meant to say it had numbers that differed from the other poster.
I thought they looked similar enough to be considered stock also. Good to know.
Same values, just diffrent voltage. Its okay for voltage to be a bit higher or lower, as long as its within the range still. The uF no, needs to be the same. You look to have the stock caps in an NTSC model too. The Shoei ones are at least.
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Those caps sure looks original. and some joints even look greyish having leakageissues.
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I should have thought of this sooner.
I have enclosed a photo of my NTSC A1200 near the RF modulator. I can see that my caps have different values, although there are similar in appearance. This is from a Rev 1D.3 board.
Am I already recapped?
The big blue cap seems bulged, or its just the angle of the photo....
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:hammer:
Was I wrong? The Lord has spoketh. The beast was not defeated by the mighty ASCII. :roflmao:
All joking aside, those look like the originals. I'm with ASCII on this. Then again, I won't confirm. I haven't seen the insides of a 1200 for 18 years.
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Think you might be right but the angle is doing something.
I'm going to crack open the case and take a closer look.
The big blue cap seems bulged, or its just the angle of the photo....
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Were you referring to my photo or the previous post?
If mine, it could be due to dust. I took this photo a while back before I did some cleaning.
I will have get some better photos when I open the case again.
Those caps sure looks original. and some joints even look greyish having leakageissues.
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The reason C237 appears to be bulging is due to the curved line on top. You can see it easier in the second photo. The surface is flat, however.
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How in the world do you get access to this cap? It is very close to the keyboard connector.
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How in the world do you get access to this cap? It is very close to the keyboard connector.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DB56v_p80k (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DB56v_p80k)
this is how I does it
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Nice work!
I see that removing part of the keyboard connector gives you some more room to work with. :D
In some ways, working with surface mount components is easier provided you have the right tools. I do not have a heat gun or a fine tip soldering iron with precise temp controls, however.
I'm surprised the heat gun did not cause damage to the keyboard connector. Guess you just have to be careful.
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Nice work!
I see that removing part of the keyboard connector gives you some more room to work with. :D
In some ways, working with surface mount components is easier provided you have the right tools. I do not have a heat gun or a fine tip soldering iron with precise temp controls, however.
I'm surprised the heat gun did not cause damage to the keyboard connector. Guess you just have to be careful.
thin nozzle, 260-280 degrees an careful. yeah