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Amiga computer related discussion => Amiga Hardware Issues and discussion => Topic started by: Erol on May 02, 2015, 02:13:44 PM
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I have a coin battery I purchased from Amigakit.
Does anyone know if this will work on revision 4 boards?
Just I looked at this board and the pin layout and traces look different from later revisions of A2000. I know these boards had varta batteries but are the pin layouts the same?
I have attached pics of my A2000 board.
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Well that's unique! Nice to see one in such good shape.
As long as the voltage is the same I wouldn't see why it wouldn't work. As far as which pins to connect it to, Google search other pics of your motherboard? Here's one I found real quick, zoom in it seems to show which set of pins to use:
http://www.amiga-resistance.info/download_photos/a2000mbrev4_2.jpg
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Well that's unique! Nice to see one in such good shape.
http://www.amiga-resistance.info/download_photos/a2000mbrev4_2.jpg
thank you for replying, the board is in mint condition.
i will do bit more digging on the net im sure replacement varta batteries that dont leak should be available somewhere.
seems the coin batteries Amiga kit supply work fine on later revisions, problem i have is the pin outs are further out and there more of them.
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Do neither of the two sets of pinouts mate up with the AmigaKit coin cell replacement? Good luck! :)
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If they don't you could use short stiff "jumper wires" and solder the connections; use a solid (not twisted wires) wire like that used in model train sets or "door bell" wire.
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There really is nothing special about coin batteries as a retrofit into Amigas. The original was a rechargable Nicad. Provided you match the voltage (and the polarity, of course), the capacity (usually measured in mA/hours) can be just about anything. I use cordless phone batteries fron Radio Shack. I splice on longer leads so they can be tie-wrapped far away from the motherboard (and easier to inspect and replace ;)). If they do leak in the future, the board won't be damaged.
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There really is nothing special about coin batteries as a retrofit into Amigas. The original was a rechargable Nicad. Provided you match the voltage (and the polarity, of course), the capacity (usually measured in mA/hours) can be just about anything. I use cordless phone batteries fron Radio Shack. I splice on longer leads so they can be tie-wrapped far away from the motherboard (and easier to inspect and replace ;)). If they do leak in the future, the board won't be damaged.
Relocated the battery on my A2000 years ago. Can use anything.
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I suggest getting the Rev 4.0board upgraded to Rev 4.4. The early rev boards had problems with CPU accelerators, Noise on the RTC Chip and keystroke issues with the first key press when the unit is booted. The keystroke issue is the easiest to fix by removing capacitors C910 and C911. There were also problems with the Phihong Power Supply on Some A2000's which required the Resistor R215 be rerouted.
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http://web.archive.org/web/20101019022402/http://amigadisks.co.cc/rare/-A2000.txt
Text up date Rev 4 to 4.5
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I suggest getting the Rev 4.0board upgraded to Rev 4.4. The early rev boards had problems with CPU accelerators, Noise on the RTC Chip and keystroke issues with the first key press when the unit is booted. The keystroke issue is the easiest to fix by removing capacitors C910 and C911. There were also problems with the Phihong Power Supply on Some A2000's which required the Resistor R215 be rerouted.
http://web.archive.org/web/20101019022402/http://amigadisks.co.cc/rare/-A2000.txt
Text up date Rev 4 to 4.5
The answers to the question the OP would have asked if he was smart enough, I suppose, and didn't just want to replace his battery.
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The answers to the question the OP would have asked if he was smart enough, I suppose, and didn't just want to replace his battery.
Maybe he wants to keep it all original? Bugs and all? :lol:
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Maybe he wants to keep it all original? Bugs and all? :lol:
Thanks to everyone comments, an interesting read.
Its crazy how many A2000 models they are, more than any other Amiga.
I wont be using the A2000 extensively as I have an A3000 for anything more accelerated.
I would prefer to keep board unique and unchanged, but with a battery that isn't too obtrusive and working (leak proof).
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Um, guys? The rev 4 German model A board *can't* be upgraded to a higher revision (short of replacing it completely). The model B rev 4 is a completely different design.
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That's right the German A2000 Was based on the 512KB Chipram and couldn't be Modified to support the FatAgnus. It was based on the A1000 Chipset Designs, there were very few released in Canada, I only ever saw one.
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Um, guys? The rev 4 German model A board *can't* be upgraded to a higher revision (short of replacing it completely). The model B rev 4 is a completely different design.
I knew about the Agnus with the German design, but none of the other mods people have suggested are applicable, either? D'oh!! :lol: :lol:
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I still believe my "mod" is feasible using elements from quantum mechanics once the Compton Effect is neutralized; it merely requires a paradigm shift from 4 dimensions to 6, provided the Theory of Relativity can be used without regard to mass.
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I still believe my "mod" is feasible using elements from quantum mechanics once the Compton Effect is neutralized; it merely requires a paradigm shift from 4 dimensions to 6, provided the Theory of Relativity can be used without regard to mass.
Dan, when you dip off to the 6th Dimension, can I have all your Amiga's? :lol:
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Dan, when you dip off to the 6th Dimension, can I have all your Amiga's? :lol:
Let's take a look inside Dan's brain.... shall we? (http://i0.wp.com/boingboing.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/1302074.gif)
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Trippy. :)
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Dan, when you dip off to the 6th Dimension, can I have all your Amiga's? :lol:
If you pay for the shipping...
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Let's take a look inside Dan's brain.... shall we? (http://i0.wp.com/boingboing.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/1302074.gif)
There used to be a C64 program called, "FTOUWSM." anyone remember it?
Stood for "Those of us who smoke marijuana"
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Dan, when you dip off to the 6th Dimension, can I have all your Amiga's? :lol:
I wonder what kind of Amiga would be in the 6th Dimension.
so to clarify i'm still confused on the clock battery, the traces on the three points on the clock adapter don't seem to connect to any of the motherboard traces..
there must be someone who has a revision 4 board whom can clarify if the original varta batteries had more than 3 pins?
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there must be someone who has a revision 4 board whom can clarify if the original varta batteries had more than 3 pins?
I'm telling ya, they didn't, man. What possible use could more than three pins serve? That's why I linked to the picture way back in my first comment. Just Google search pictures of your motherboard. It appears that C= Germany, in their infinite wisdom, provided two different sets of pin holes for two different types of batteries. The question was, does the AmigaKit battery adapter not match up with either of these two sets of holes?
Here's a couple more pictures for you that I google searched. You can clearly see that there's two different types of batteries installed - one using the lower holes, one using the upper holes. But I'll eat my hat if you can find a picture of an A2000 motherboard with all six freaking battery pins all connected. :D
http://bboah.amiga-resistance.info/download_photos/a2000mbrev4_2.jpg
http://bboah.amiga-resistance.info/download_photos/a2000mb_rev40.jpg
http://amiga.resource.cx/photos/photos/a2000arev4.jpg
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(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7742/16747530323_8e4c7fa4ab_z.jpg)
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The question was, does the AmigaKit battery adapter not match up with either of these two sets of holes?
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I have to bend the pins a fair bit to get them aligned.
so my next question is, on all examples pics i have seen the battery is aligned with the markings BAT1 BAT2 and BAT3.
But if you look at my pic without the battery you can see there is no connecting traces except to the holes above BAT1&2 and the small hole to the left of BAT3.
How does the board notice there a battery installed? if there no connecting traces to the rest of the board?
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Two layer board, no traces on the bottom?
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Two layer board, no traces on the bottom?
There one trace line going up on back of the board.. i have marked in yellow line.
it obviously stops at each hole in that line.
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Your yellow line denotes the connection of the (+) terminal end -- 2 legged side.
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Just a side thought, but you should be able to just "plug it in" (or probably honestly you could just press the battery into it's holes, just for a temporary connection), and measure the voltage at the pin on the clock chip or at the resistor with a multimeter. I had to do this on mine (had some issues with battery damage). Granted I haven't looked at the specs at all, but I assume at least the clock chip is the same on the German motherboard as on the standard? Purpose of this test is to verify that you're getting voltage at the correct location. Good luck! :)