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Amiga computer related discussion => Amiga Hardware Issues and discussion => Topic started by: AmigaBruno on February 11, 2014, 03:43:15 PM
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I hope this shouldn't be too complicated to repair. I bought an original copy of John Madden American Football, dated 1992. I have only played an online version of this before on AOL years ago. I read some of the manual which seemed quite complicated, then I managed to get both teams to be controlled by Madden, so it was in a kind of demo mode, to get more of an idea of how the game worked. The screen for selecting games controls seemed quite complicated. I selected some teams where I knew which colours they used, such as red for Washington or New England, so I could tell the teams apart more easily. Only the names of cities are listed, not the actual team names, so these can and do change whenever a team abandons their home city and moves somewhere completely different, which has happened in the past and has probably changed since 1992. I then found that it seemed I was unable to control my team using either of two joysticks which I plugged in one after the other with the mouse still occupying its own port, so then I switched to using keyboard controls, which are automatically enabled, then it turned out that my team was the other team instead of the one I thought I was controlling. I had to use the keys Z, X, #, /, and ENTER. I didn't think I was hitting the keys very hard, but after a few minutes the X key broke when it suddenly collapsed and came loose! I picked it up off the keyboard and as I hope some of you know, I found a kind of telescopic post which it seems has collapsed. I tried pulling it up again, as well as twisting it, but this didn't fix the problem. I also found that the A1200 now often thinks I'm holding down the X key, which causes lots of Xs to be printed onto the screen during bootup and also affects gameplay in Civilization, where screens of information disappear or choices can be made whenever a key is pressed. Obviously, I need to know how to repair or replace this component, or what else could be done to fix the problem. I don't think changing keymaps will work in this game, which is designed to boot from two floppy disks.
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I'm sure it's fixable. If you posted a picture of the broken part it would probably go much further towards fixing it than a million words. However if you don't feel like hunting down repair parts it looks like AmigaKit has replacement A1200 keyboards in stock for $27:
http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=336
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I'm sure it's fixable. If you posted a picture of the broken part it would probably go much further towards fixing it than a million words. However if you don't feel like hunting down repair parts it looks like AmigaKit has replacement A1200 keyboards in stock for $27:
http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=336
OK, I'll post a couple of pics from different angles ASAP. In the meantime, I can say that when it broke nothing seemed to fly out from under the key. I've looked on the floor and can't see anything that may have been underneath it.
Interestingly enough, I've just looked on http://www.amigakit.co.uk and only found an A1200 keyboard with an Italian layout, but your link shows one with a UK layout.
As for the actual team names which aren't used in this version of John Madden American Football, only what cities they're based in, I've just been amazed to find out that various teams were based in Los Angeles, but at this moment there's no NFL team based there at all! In this game, I think that the team from Los Angeles plays in a blue strip, though.
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The key should have a hollow post, the bottom of which pushes on a carbon coated membrane to close the connection. The return action is likely by a rubber funnel or in some cases a spring. Using a peg such as a wooden Q-tip dowel glued into the two broken ends has always worked for me, but you may have to remove the keyboard for good pressure.
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The key should have a hollow post, the bottom of which pushes on a carbon coated membrane to close the connection. The return action is likely by a rubber funnel or in some cases a spring. Using a peg such as a wooden Q-tip dowel glued into the two broken ends has always worked for me, but you may have to remove the keyboard for good pressure.
Suggest you carefully remove another key to see if there is a spring under the cap. There is on a 500. Not sure on a 1200. Doing this will allow you to see if there us a marked difference indicating something may have broken.
Examining a working part is often a way to identifying what's wrong with a non working one. The keys pop off with a constant even upward pressure.
No guarantee doing so wont break another one though. Always a risk with these older machines. If there is a spring watch she doesn't go flying.
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Send me a picture of the key hole ( :) ) and if I've got an 'x' spare of the right type you can have it with the post and spring for the price of postage! Easy to fix, you just need a cross head screwdriver.
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I believe this is what you're looking for. It needs some retrobrighting but better than nothing! I'm in the UK so if you're across the pond, postage would be about £3 (about $5), I reckon.
Just let me know if I can help.
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Wow, the A1200 used springs instead of those little rubber smooshy things? That's nice. For once C= didn't totally cheap out, LOL. ;)
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I think some of the later ones use the little plasticky things. I just checked my 1200 here, though, and those are the correct bits. Hopefully his are the same :)
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I believe this is what you're looking for. It needs some retrobrighting but better than nothing! I'm in the UK so if you're across the pond, postage would be about £3 (about $5), I reckon.
Just let me know if I can help.
Actually, that looks nothing like what's underneath where the key was. There's no sign of a spring either. I suppose the membrane underneath may have been damaged. I'm in the UK. I'll post some pics of this key and its base later today.
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I assumed you were in the US because you mentioned American Football and AOL. :) Saves on postage though!
You probably have the type with the squidgy rubber then. Are you able to take a photo of another key? You can remove them just by pulling them off, but be careful to pull it off perpendicular to the keyboard or you can break the post it's on.
If you can get a close-up picture of the keyboard where the key was, and the back of the key, I can see what I have... but best would be the back of a different (non-broken) key, the key post and the spring/rubber underneath it.
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I assumed you were in the US because you mentioned American Football and AOL. :) Saves on postage though!
You probably have the type with the squidgy rubber then. Are you able to take a photo of another key? You can remove them just by pulling them off, but be careful to pull it off perpendicular to the keyboard or you can break the post it's on.
If you can get a close-up picture of the keyboard where the key was, and the back of the key, I can see what I have... but best would be the back of a different (non-broken) key, the key post and the spring/rubber underneath it.
This game was widely sold here, it mentions Electronic Arts UK, and in the loading stages features a female voice with an English accent, but in the USA it was probably called just “John Madden Football”. AOL was an ISP in the UK, which I joined because they were first to offer cheap calls for Internet access here, but has since been bought and sold lots of times. In the USA they were called America On Line, though.
Here are some pics of the situation with my X key now. I hope this means more to someone out there than it does to me! Just after it broke, I was able to pull up and even twist that white plastic component up, but now I can't even do that. Of course, there are two keys which aren't marked with any characters at all, but I haven't yet felt like taking the plunge and removing them. They may have some use and I prefer to keep my keyboard intact if I can.
I've checked that this game is compatible with other Amigas, so I should be able to run it on my A500 Plus at least for the time being. I really wish there was a hack that could prevent most of the normal stopping and starting in the game, which is the same as in the real thing!
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Somebody with the replacement key should be able to get you fixed right up. Of course you will need to remove the broken bit of "shaft" from down inside the keyboard. Tweezers or needle nose pliers should work fine for that. Also, you're missing a piece - the mushy rubber "spring" described earlier. I think yours should look something like this pic of one of mine (attached pic). Of course this is an A2000...
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Somebody with the replacement key should be able to get you fixed right up. Of course you will need to remove the broken bit of "shaft" from down inside the keyboard. Tweezers or needle nose pliers should work fine for that. Also, you're missing a piece - the mushy rubber "spring" described earlier. I think yours should look something like this pic of one of mine (attached pic). Of course this is an A2000...
OK, I see. I don't think I'm missing a part. I think my keyboard is probably made differently from the A2000 keyboard. I think I'll have to carefully remove one of the two blank keys to see what's underneath it. Which one should I remove and how should I do it to avoid losing or breaking any parts?
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You are definitely missing a part... without a spring or rubbery thing, the key will stay down and won't come back up. You will also need to open the keyboard and remove the remnants of the old post (you can't get it from the front), and put a new post in its place.
Prise off the C key very carefully - remember to pull it off directly away from the 1200, don't bend it's plastic post or it'll break too. It's not attached, just held on to the post by friction. Make sure you don't lose the springy bit, and take a photo of the back of the key and the springy thing.
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You are definitely missing a part... without a spring or rubbery thing, the key will stay down and won't come back up. You will also need to open the keyboard and remove the remnants of the old post (you can't get it from the front), and put a new post in its place.
Prise off the C key very carefully - remember to pull it off directly away from the 1200, don't bend it's plastic post or it'll break too. It's not attached, just held on to the post by friction. Make sure you don't lose the springy bit, and take a photo of the back of the key and the springy thing.
Why should I prise off the C key instead of the blank key to the left of the Z key, or the blank key right of the # key?
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Because there's a gap where the 'x' key is - it's easier to get a key off if you can see what you're doing better, which that gap will help with.
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Because there's a gap where the 'x' key is - it's easier to get a key off if you can see what you're doing better, which that gap will help with.
I think I'll remove one of the blank keys instead.
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I think I'll remove one of the blank keys instead.
Your choice, but you really should listen to what he's telling you, as it will be much easier. FYI the blank keys are used for other keymaps, so they might be blank on yours, but for keyboards used in other countries they'd have characters printed on them.
In any case, given your limited technical skill I'd suggest you might be better off paying the $27 (19 EUR?) for a brand new UK-layout keyboard from AmigaKit. That sounds like a heck of a deal to me, and there's videos on YouTube showing how to swap it out.
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Your choice, but you really should listen to what he's telling you, as it will be much easier. FYI the blank keys are used for other keymaps, so they might be blank on yours, but for keyboards used in other countries they'd have characters printed on them.
In any case, given your limited technical skill I'd suggest you might be better off paying the $27 (19 EUR?) for a brand new UK-layout keyboard from AmigaKit. That sounds like a heck of a deal to me, and there's videos on YouTube showing how to swap it out.
I just need to gently prise off a blank key without breaking anything. It would be good if someone told me the best way to do this.
Of course, the blank keys may be used for other keymaps, but I'm not sure which ones at the moment. I don't actually need to use those keys for word processing or anything else at the moment, because I have other computers which can produce any characters I need in other European languages I speak, meaning German, French, Dutch, Danish, Swedish, Italian, and the artifical but mainly Indo European language Esperanto. The laptop I'm typing this on doesn't even have a key between # and ENTER, while the key to the left of the Z is marked \ and | . I may soon buy a copy of the German language political party game "1990" from Vesalia, so I think I should check what the German A1200 keymap is before deciding which key to remove. At the end of the day, I do need the C key, which is also C on most keymaps, but may not need either of the blank keys.
Of course, if I fail, then I can still buy the brand new UK Amiga A1200 keyboard from Amigakit for less than £19, but at the moment I'm learning about repairs, and you've got more money than me anyway. I already know how to unplug and plug in an Amiga keyboard, because I did this when I fitted my CF hard, as well as years ago when fitting a Kickstart ROM switcher board. I'm trying to avoid spending any money I can if there's something I can do about it, such as making or repairing something myself.
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I don't want to hijack this thread so if someone thinks I should post a separate one, please say so.
I have a similar issue with an A3000 keyboard except that I can still use the post as the post itself broke slightly and the key fell off. I don't have the key either - I got this keyboard as part of a package deal.
So if anyone knows where I could find a replacement key setup for the #1 (see pic) on an A3000, I'm all ears.
Thanks.
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I don't want to hijack this thread so if someone thinks I should post a separate one, please say so.
I have a similar issue with an A3000 keyboard except that I can still use the post as the post itself broke slightly and the key fell off. I don't have the key either - I got this keyboard as part of a package deal.
So if anyone knows where I could find a replacement key setup for the #1 (see pic) on an A3000, I'm all ears.
Thanks.
The slot looks the same as a 2000 keyboard key slot. So that's an option. Perhaps even a 500 key might fit. You need the spring too.
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I've finally got round to/dared to remove my Amiga A1200 keyboard and managed to remove the blank key to the left of the Z key. I tried to unscrew the back plate, but although most of the screws came out easily with a large screwdriver tip, there were some I couldn't undo. I'll have to buy a quite small screwdriver ASAP to remove them. Here are the pics of what I found.
The first three pics show that although the blank key has an empty plastic cylinder underneath, the X key's cylinder is full of something. This is actually the remains of the broken post which forms part of all the keys, after I gouged out part of it with some screwdrivers and try to pull it out with tweezers and a bent pin. The fourth and fifth pics show on the left the blank key with its spring and the X key on the right with its post broken off and without a spring.
I plan to go and buy a very small screwdriver, like one for iPod repairs (which I've lost) in the next 24 hours to remove the remaining screws from the backplate. Meanwhile, I'd appreciate any advice anyone may have for me. I'm posting this at 23:14 GMT, which is my time zone.
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You don't need to open the back. Its clear that the key post has broken off in the socket. A thin piece of wire that's not mild steal, such as a spring or hook, straightened but with a small bend in the end should allow you to snag the post and pull it out.
Unless you really want to open the whole thing up.
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Buying all these screwdrivers will probably wind up costing just as much as the replacement keyboard. Or just do what Gertsy said. IMHO. ;)
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You don't need to open the back. Its clear that the key post has broken off in the socket. A thin piece of wire that's not mild steal, such as a spring or hook, straightened but with a small bend in the end should allow you to snag the post and pull it out.
Unless you really want to open the whole thing up.
Thanks for this advice! I tried with a bent glass headed pin, but that didn't work.
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Buying all these screwdrivers will probably wind up costing just as much as the replacement keyboard. Or just do what Gertsy said. IMHO. ;)
I only need ONE screwdriver of the right size. Here's a whole set of them which is much cheaper than the replacement keyboard, though.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-mini-screw-drivers-small-tiny-little-laptop-set-precision-screwdrivers-i96-/201041731064?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2ecf055df8
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Here's an update. I finally removed the broken key debris from the X key position by gouging it out with a bent paper clip. It seems fairly clear now, but I'm not sure. It's just been lying around for a few weeks, because I'm not sure if all the key remains have been removed, or how to fit the spare spring and key top into that position. Can anyone tell me if the A1200 would now detect the blank key from left of the Z key being pressed down, although it's not defined in the keymap I'm using? Of course, the keyboard is over 99% working, so it would be a shame to discard it.
I'll upload a pic here ASAP. I need to make a decision on whether or not to buy a replacement keyboard in the next couple of days.
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Sorry for the big delay in posting any more pics! The pics attached to this message show the current state of the keyboard. I don't know what to do next. I don't know what happened to the spring underneath the X key, or how to fit the spring from the blank key to the X key position. I hope to get some answers in the next one or two days, otherwise I'll have to buy a new keyboard. The whole point of not buying a new keyboard is to find out how to repair this keyboard and lots of other things which various people like to say are "not worth repairing".
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Ummm... it's been over two months and you still haven't been able to fix this? Didn't removing the other key make it pretty obvious how these things go together? IMHO this repair might be beyond your current skillset, save yourself the trouble and buy a new keyboard. :angry:
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I'm not sure what the problem is... it's very easy to fix a broken key.
1) unscrew back of keyboard
2) remove back.
3) remove broken key post
4) replace with new key post
5) replace and screw down back of keyboard
6) put spring on key post now sticking out the front
7) put key top onto post.
That's it!
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The spring just sits over the key socket. It is not secured in any way. The key post just fits through the circle of the spring, into the socket (Make sure the key is the right way up before fitting) and press it into the socket until it clicks.
That's it. Nothing rocket science and as Mike pointed out removing the key should have shown you how it all goes together.
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Ummm... it's been over two months and you still haven't been able to fix this? Didn't removing the other key make it pretty obvious how these things go together? IMHO this repair might be beyond your current skillset, save yourself the trouble and buy a new keyboard. :angry:
I didn't realise it had been over 2 months. Obviously, I need to do something quickly now. I've been thinking that the missing spring has been pushed down into the X key base, which is why that key just collapsed. All I can do is try to push the spare spring into that base and hope it lines up with the part which has collapsed and causes my A1200 to think I'm holding down the X key. I think that if I do this the spring may just slip and shoot off across my living room, never to be seen again. If I fail to fix this myself I may not be able to fix or make anything else.
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I'm not sure what the problem is... it's very easy to fix a broken key.
1) unscrew back of keyboard
2) remove back.
3) remove broken key post
4) replace with new key post
5) replace and screw down back of keyboard
6) put spring on key post now sticking out the front
7) put key top onto post.
That's it!
I haven't actually removed the back of the keyboard, because I was told I didn't need to and none of my screwdrivers will fit those screws. What kind of screwdriver do I need? AFAIK the key post is part of the key itself, or isn't it? I don't understand what you're saying as stage 6. How is the key post sticking out of the front? What exactly do I put the key top onto in stage 7?
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It's just a standard-sized screwdriver. It's a long, large-ish one - not a jewellers one or anything - but it does have quite a pointed tip. Plenty of different screwdrivers will work, though, just make sure they're pointy. :)
If your key-post (the white bit) is actually sticking out the front and there's nothing in it, then it's even easier - just put the spring around the white bit and push the key into the hole in the keypost.
Make sure your key has its own little plastic post as well to insert into the post sticking out of the keyboard itself.
edit: Looking at the old photos again, you're probably OK and not needing to remove the back after all - but then I don't understand why you're having a problem. Are you sure there's nothing left of the old key stuck in the post?
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It's just a standard-sized screwdriver. It's a long, large-ish one - not a jewellers one or anything - but it does have quite a pointed tip. Plenty of different screwdrivers will work, though, just make sure they're pointy. :)
If your key-post (the white bit) is actually sticking out the front and there's nothing in it, then it's even easier - just put the spring around the white bit and push the key into the hole in the keypost.
Make sure your key has its own little plastic post as well to insert into the post sticking out of the keyboard itself.
edit: Looking at the old photos again, you're probably OK and not needing to remove the back after all - but then I don't understand why you're having a problem. Are you sure there's nothing left of the old key stuck in the post?
I can't get another screwdriver until tomorrow now. So, there are two things you're calling posts, which is what confused me. I can't tell whether or not there's anything left of the old key stuck in the post. That's why I uploaded the latest pics. It looks like I'll have to remove the keyboard backplate after all, otherwise trying to insert the spare blank key could break its post.
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Yes, it's rather difficult to describe!
I guess you could consider the key post as being a socket and the key top as being the plug. You have to be sure the socket is empty but the plug should fit in fairly easily.
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Good news! The situation has now progressed. I managed to get a screwdriver that fitted the really tiny screws on the backplate of the Amiga A1200 keyboard. I soon managed to remove all the screws and put them in a safe place. This place is actually in a plastic glass with another plastic glass inserted into it, forming a small compartment.
As I removed the backplate, I was just sitting on a sofa, bending over a low table, then as I detached the backplate from the keyboard, some small components fell off and onto the cushion I was sitting on. I hope I managed to grab them all, but I'm not sure!
When I was trying to push out what may have been the remains of the X key post, suddenly something shot out and landed to the right of my sofa, but when I looked I couldn't see any sign of it. I think it would take a search party of nanobots to find this, as well as the spring that was under the X key, and the Micro SD card from my Android tablet!
I'm attaching some pics which show everyone the current situation with this keyboard, as well as the components that came out of it. There are some coins in the pics so that people can see the size of the components. The coins are the British 1p and US 1c, both often called “a penny”. I didn't have any Euro coins handy. I want to repair it myself so that I have more control over my life. I hope you can understand this!
I look forward to any and all suggestions you may have about how to finish the repair. I think I'll probably be buying the components that Spirantho has offered in any case, to restore the keyboard to perfect condition, even if I never use that blank key. I also want a key that says X on it!
If or when I manage to fix this, then who knows what my next project could be?
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Here's some big news about this situation!
1. I've found the missing spring from the X key! It ended up about 2m away from where the Amiga A1200 was, at an angle of about 45 degrees. It was on the floor by the side of a desktop tower PC.
2. I tried plugging the A1200 keyboard in again, with the X key and the blank key next to the Z key missing, then I found out that I couldn't even plug it in, because the ribbon cable kept popping out of its slot! So, beware anyone who tries to do any Amiga A1200 keyboard repairs. One you unplug that ribbon cable, you may not be able to get it back in.
The way things are now, I think my only options may be either to attend an Amiga meeting very soon, or to send the whole A1200 computer to Amigakit for repair!
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I don't want to hijack this thread so if someone thinks I should post a separate one, please say so.
I have a similar issue with an A3000 keyboard except that I can still use the post as the post itself broke slightly and the key fell off. I don't have the key either - I got this keyboard as part of a package deal.
So if anyone knows where I could find a replacement key setup for the #1 (see pic) on an A3000, I'm all ears.
Thanks.
I had the same issue with one of my keyboards resulting in a lose keycap that was wobbly when pressed. However I was out of spares so I simply cut the stud clean of at the base, turned it on it's head and glued it back on so the top again have a firm grip on the keycap. Works like a charm but to be on the safe side I changed it's position to a lesser used key on the keyboard.
(http://privat.bahnhof.se/wb409723/blandat/kybdstudfix.jpg)
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I had the same issue with one of my keyboards resulting in a lose keycap that was wobbly when pressed. However I was out of spares so I simply cut the stud clean of at the base, turned it on it's head and glued it back on so the top again have a firm grip on the keycap. Works like a charm but to be on the safe side I changed it's position to a lesser used key on the keyboard.
(http://privat.bahnhof.se/wb409723/blandat/kybdstudfix.jpg)
Congratulations! Was this an external plug in keyboard, such as on an A2000, A3000, A4000, or as more likely, was it a keyboard with an internal ribbon cable, such as an A500, A500 Plus, A600, or as in my case an A1200? If it was the latter, then how did you manage to plug the ribbon cable back in and get it to stay put!?
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Are you aware that the ribbon socket is a clamp? You lift the plastic, then insert or remove the ribbon fully, then push the plastic down.
Removal of this ribbon without opening the clamp can easily destroy the contacts on the ribbon cable ! Always fully open the clamp before insertion or removal!
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Congratulations! Was this an external plug in keyboard, such as on an A2000, A3000, A4000, or as more likely, was it a keyboard with an internal ribbon cable, such as an A500, A500 Plus, A600, or as in my case an A1200? If it was the latter, then how did you manage to plug the ribbon cable back in and get it to stay put!?
It was an external keyboard.
On A500/500+/600/1200 the membrane is held in a socket with a clip (http://www.doctorq.info/amibay/A600_keyboard_clip.jpg) that needs to be lifted a few milimeters to lose tension on the membrane connection, if not you will scrach the membranes connector and it won't get a good connection and eventually fail (if scratched you can usually cut of the outer 3mm of the damaged part). The clip will usually stay hooked to the socket (designed that way but can get damaged) and when reseat the cable the clip has to be lifted so the membrane connector can get plugged back in propperly and then you press the clip back down onto the socket to create a firm connection.
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Are you aware that the ribbon socket is a clamp? You lift the plastic, then insert or remove the ribbon fully, then push the plastic down.
Removal of this ribbon without opening the clamp can easily destroy the contacts on the ribbon cable ! Always fully open the clamp before insertion or removal!
Oh dear! I'm afraid I didn't know that. It's hard to remember now, but I think I must have just pulled the ribbon out and it came out. There didn't seem to be anything stopping me from easing it out. I'm afraid I don't know how to lift the plastic, or which part of it you mean. Obviously, it's not much of a "clamp". What kind of clamp allows anyone to pull something out which it's supposed to have clamped down? I've already tried to re insert this cable several times before you posted your reply!
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It was an external keyboard.
On A500/500+/600/1200 the membrane is held in a socket with a clip (http://www.doctorq.info/amibay/A600_keyboard_clip.jpg) that needs to be lifted a few milimeters to lose tension on the membrane connection, if not you will scrach the membranes connector and it won't get a good connection and eventually fail (if scratched you can usually cut of the outer 3mm of the damaged part). The clip will usually stay hooked to the socket (designed that way but can get damaged) and when reseat the cable the clip has to be lifted so the membrane connector can get plugged back in propperly and then you press the clip back down onto the socket to create a firm connection.
OMG! Unfortunately, I still don't understand how to lift this clip. I think I need a diagram.
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The "clamp" is a thin ring of plastic at the very top of the insert site, it should easily lift with two fingers of one hand about 1 - 2 mm and with the other hand push the ribbon cable back in, then push the "clamp" back in to help wedge the ribbon into its connector. If done carefully you can bypass lifting the clamp, if done poorly you make break the clamp and need a drop of hot glue to hold it in place.
If you haven't figured this out, a better place to work on small, electronic parts is on a flat, clean work desk in a room with hard floor. The best place to loose parts is in any -- preferably shag -- carpet or a grassy knoll in Texas, sitting on anything with cushions with a dog, cat, or small child under foot. A strong magnetic pad for the parts and a strong magnetic wand with a led head lamp will allow less misadventures.
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The "clamp" is a thin ring of plastic at the very top of the insert site, it should easily lift with two fingers of one hand about 1 - 2 mm and with the other hand push the ribbon cable back in, then push the "clamp" back in to help wedge the ribbon into its connector. If done carefully you can bypass lifting the clamp, if done poorly you make break the clamp and need a drop of hot glue to hold it in place.
If you haven't figured this out, a better place to work on small, electronic parts is on a flat, clean work desk in a room with hard floor. The best place to loose parts is in any -- preferably shag -- carpet or a grassy knoll in Texas, sitting on anything with cushions with a dog, cat, or small child under foot. A strong magnetic pad for the parts and a strong magnetic wand with a led head lamp will allow less misadventures.
OK, thanks for that information. If I break the clamp, then I think I should buy a replacement from Amigakit. I don't know what this "hot glue" is.
I'm working on this in my flat, which is covered with wooden laminated flooring. There are no carpets here. I wasn't planning on taking it out to a local park. There are no dogs, cats, or small children here either. I've got a screwdriver with a magnetic extendable wand.
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OMG! Unfortunately, I still don't understand how to lift this clip. I think I need a diagram.
I'm no artist but hope this helps... and no more just janking it out (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7M8ihCg4EY#t=1m10s) as it's just a mattre of time before you scratch it to the point where column of keys stop responding and you're left to either cut it down a bit or paint over the scratches with conductive paint. And here's a better picture of the actual clip when it's been released (http://www.brianhoskins.co.uk//wp-content/uploads/2013/12/ClaspReleased.jpg).
(http://privat.bahnhof.se/wb409723/blandat/kybdclip.gif)
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I'm no artist but hope this helps... and no more just janking it out (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7M8ihCg4EY#t=1m10s) as it's just a mattre of time before you scratch it to the point where column of keys stop responding and you're left to either cut it down a bit or paint over the scratches with conductive paint. And here's a better picture of the actual clip when it's been released (http://www.brianhoskins.co.uk//wp-content/uploads/2013/12/ClaspReleased.jpg).
(http://privat.bahnhof.se/wb409723/blandat/kybdclip.gif)
Thanks for this information! I had already realised that I probably needed to pinch this clamp or clip horizontally. I did this using a flat blade screwdriver and a pair of tweezers. After several attempts, it came off! I'm going to post some pics of this soon, so that everyone knows what the latest situation is.
I really feel I'm going to be able to get this keyboard working soon, but without the X key. After I've done that, then I hope to replace the X key as well as the blank key. After I've done that, then who knows what I'll be capable of? The whole point of this is not to have to send it away anywhere for repair.
BTW, soon I hope to be able to make, modify and repair lots of things, not just Amiga computers!
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The clamp shouldn't come off! It should just lift up a few mm and allow the ribbon to be pushed in or pulled out... if it's come off you pulled way too hard!
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The clamp shouldn't come off! It should just lift up a few mm and allow the ribbon to be pushed in or pulled out... if it's come off you pulled way too hard!
I thought I was supposed to pull it off. What should I do with it now? I think I should also buy that replacement X key and the accompanying parts from you, including a spring. The spring I found is bent.
BTW Brian, it's "yank", not "jank". I've only heard "jank" used once as an insult. I've just looked it up and found it now has a couple of new meanings, though. One meaning seems to be like junk, while another is software related.
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You should put the top bit of the clamp back on it. Make sure that the clamp moves up and down on the socket - it'll require a little force, but not much at all. You might have broken the plastic tab which stops it coming off entirely, but that shouldn't matter as it'll spend most of its life pressed down anyway.
Once it's back on, you can lift it a few millimetres to place/remove the ribbon, then push it down to clamp it back into place.
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You should put the top bit of the clamp back on it. Make sure that the clamp moves up and down on the socket - it'll require a little force, but not much at all. You might have broken the plastic tab which stops it coming off entirely, but that shouldn't matter as it'll spend most of its life pressed down anyway.
Once it's back on, you can lift it a few millimetres to place/remove the ribbon, then push it down to clamp it back into place.
OK, great! I think I get the idea. I wonder if the Guinness Book of Records has a category for the longest time taken to repair a computer keyboard. I'll contact them. After this, I could try to run my Amiga A1200 off some kind of battery, set it up outside BBC Broadcasting House and do some artwork there while wearing some glasses like a pair worn by Andy Warhol!
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OK, great! I think I get the idea. I wonder if the Guinness Book of Records has a category for the longest time taken to repair a computer keyboard. I'll contact them. After this, I could try to run my Amiga A1200 off some kind of battery, set it up outside BBC Broadcasting House and do some artwork there while wearing some glasses like a pair worn by Andy Warhol!
I wouldn't start with a sense of humor now, it will just confuse you further ;)