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Amiga computer related discussion => Amiga Hardware Issues and discussion => Topic started by: AmigaPixel on January 17, 2014, 07:39:05 AM
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Well I decided to experiment with installing an ATX PSU in my Amiga 2000. More accurately I decided to try Jope’s method of transferring the ATX components into the Amiga PSU shell. OK kids this is where it gets interesting! I did not dare do this with a new ATX PSU so I used a very old dying LiteOn 250 watt PSU I pulled from a first generation P4 socket 423, HP Pavilion. See pics.
Removing the parts from the Amiga PSU went smoothly. The ATX was more of a struggle but not too bad. My first real problem was removing the female A/C outlet from the ATX shell. The only way I could remove it was to either de-solder the wires from the circuit board or cut them. I don’t have my solder iron right now and the only solder experience I have is re- soldering an RCA video jack on one of my 1080 monitors. So I went with option 2 and cut them. The AC outlet has a resister and two capacitors covered in a plastic or rubber coating. I assumed that I better keep the original ATX outlet with the rest of the components and not attempt to use the Amiga outlet, which only has the positive and negative and ground wires.
The ATX parts fit easily enough in the Amiga shell. However in order to get he fan to fit on the proper opening on the back of the Amiga shell I was forced to orientate the board in a way that only allowed one screw to mount it by. It also placed the cut A/C wires squeezed underneath the fan. The grounding wire had no problem reaching the proper place inside the Amiga psu shell where the original was connected. All in all the whole thing felt jerry rigged and not really like it would be safe and I do not relish the idea of cracking open a brand new ATX psu.
This attempt was a good way to demonstrate to me that I would prefer to install the ATX power supply directly into the Amiga. I have opted to follow the method used by Orange by placing the ATX PSU on feet to raise it to the proper height. I tested this with the ATX shell. The holes where the fan and A/C outlet are aligned perfectly. The only thing I could not test is the power switch since this ATX model does not come with a switch on the back. I am sure even the ones that do will not line up with the back of the A2000. So I hope I can un-mount the switch and extended it by splicing in the proper gauge wires if needed. Well that’s it for now until I receive my new Seasonic PSU and of course the ATX to Amiga power adapter cable from AmigaKit. Not surprising the Amiga PSU went back together easy where as the ATX PSU I struggled to fit the original parts back together. It was a cheap brand. Anyway the project continues.
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So far the ATX PSU options are difficult, I was going to usea Seasonic but the location of the power switch is underneath the A/C plug on the same plastic mount in the PSU. The PSU AmigaKit has the A/C plug and power switch reversed. DOH! I really do not wish to cut into the back of the A2000 plate.
Is there an easy way to connect a power switch to the Amiga-ATX adapter cable?
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I don't think you should be doing this at all.
I get the impression you have no electronic, or even mechanical assembly experience, and you're playing with dangerous, and deadly voltages.
Might I suggest you tackle some low voltage projects before attempting this..
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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151085
This might work if I flip it over.
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I don't think you should be doing this at all.
I get the impression you have no electronic, or even mechanical assembly experience, and you're playing with dangerous, and deadly voltages.
Might I suggest you tackle some low voltage projects before attempting this..
I have some experience with electrical and mechanical assembly. I used to install data Cat 5 and terminate RJ-45jacks among other experience, but your right I do not have enough skill or experience to mess with these ATX components. That is why I am opting to install the ATX PSU inside the Amiga. Now it is just a matter of aligning and mounting. I think the PSU I posted the link to will work, the only issue will be the power switch.
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Bah, Amiga.org is full of Doubting Thomases. Just don't electrocute yourself or jam a screwdriver into a capacitor. ;)
One thing to keep in mind is if you get a PSU that doesn't line up with the openings on the back of the case, you'll have to Dremel a hole in the back for them. No big deal, I did this in mine when I added a 3-speed fan inside the stock PSU and needed a way to mount the fan speed switch, but just to keep in mind. That metal case is a B****, they didn't use thin stuff back in the day, LOL. ;)
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PS - let us know next of kin, so if you do die while doing this we have an address to send flowers, LOL. :smack:
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I get the impression you have no electronic, or even mechanical assembly experience, and you're playing with dangerous, and deadly voltages.
110v isn't deadly. Splicing a switch into the positive wire shouldn't be too hard. You need to use some thick wire, but you can steal that from an old power cable.
As long as you are careful and double check everything and don't do anything stupid like leaving exposed wired. I'd use a multi meter to check for continuity and shorts before even thinking of plugging it into the mains.
Sure it's possible to mess it up, which is why you position the computer far away enough away from the power socket that when you turn the power on at the wall that if it blows up that you're not going to get injured. First turn the power on when the switch is off, then turn the power off, unplug it and turn the computers switch to on, plug back in, turn the power on & see what happens.
If it doesn't work then you'll need to start thinking about checking voltages while it's turned on, but you can unplug it all and become calm before you try that.
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110v isn't deadly. Splicing a switch into the positive wire shouldn't be too hard. You need to use some thick wire, but you can steal that from an old power cable.
positive wire? are we even talking about mains voltage anymore? :whack:
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positive wire? are we even talking about mains voltage anymore? :whack:
Ah. International forum, remember? Here in the states it's common to call one side of the wire coming out of a power outlet the positive wire. Conversely I recall a thread where someone from somewhere in Europe, I think it was, didn't know what a power strip was. I was like "How the eff does anyone not know what a power strip is?" LOL. ;)
(http://help.vcslearn.org/wp-content/uploads/vcs_help_uploads/2011/06/Power-Strip.jpg)
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Here in the states it's common to call one side of the wire coming out of a power outlet the positive wire.
sure... which one.. seeing neither are positive :laughing:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_color_is_the_positive_in_a_standard_ac_power_cord?#slide=1
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110v isn't deadly. Splicing a switch into the positive wire shouldn't be too hard. You need to use some thick wire, but you can steal that from an old power cable.
I agree that splicing into the live wire is an easy job and well within the capabilities of any sensible human being. But I would question your statement that 110V is not deadly. I assume we're talking about 110V A.C. here, which definitely does have the potential to be deadly. It's not guaranteed that if you come into contact with it that you'll be dead, but there is a possibility of the contact being fatal. And in order to avoid complacency, which will inevitably lead to that contact (if not now then at some other time), I think it's important to stress that mucking around with 110V A.C. is no joke and needs to be taken seriously.
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sure... which one.. seeing neither are positive :laughing:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_color_is_the_positive_in_a_standard_ac_power_cord?#slide=1
It's red, so that must be positive and black is negative, yeah. Or maybe black, and smoking, is the colour of my hair after attempting this.
But to be fair he did say a dying power supply. I took that to mean it was a non live POC of the process. But if someone does not understand AC and live v neutral it could end in tears.
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110v isn't deadly.
The 240v we have in the Netherlands aren't either, but the accompanying 16 amps certainly can be.
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The 240v we have in the Netherlands aren't either, but the accompanying 16 amps certainly can be.
So sick of people making uninformed comments like that. At 240volts you won't conduct 16amps so the potential output current has nothing to do with it.
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So sick of people making uninformed comments like that.
A mistake that errs on the side of caution makes you sick? Why?
At 240volts you won't conduct 16amps so the potential output current has nothing to do with it.
Really? So, if the body is properly grounded it's not going to pull 16 amps? Why (serious question)?
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Because the resistance of your body is no where near low enough. "its not the voltage, its the current that kills you" is correct, but without a high enough voltage you won't conduct enough current to do anything. You could have a 1000amp 20volt supply and feel nothing.
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Thanks, shows what I know :o
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Because the resistance of your body is no where near low enough. "its not the voltage, its the current that kills you" is correct, but without a high enough voltage you won't conduct enough current to do anything. You could have a 1000amp 20volt supply and feel nothing.
There is some more data here.
http://www.highvoltageconnection.com/articles/ElectricShockQuestions.htm
Making sure your environment is safe is probably the best thing you can do, so that if you do get a shock that you don't fall back and crack your head open.
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Here in the States with 120VAC you have a white wire that is common ground and a black or red wire that is "Hot". The only difference between the white wire and the green ground wire is the white is grounded at the power station and the green is grounded at the Breaker box.
Chris
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The only difference between the white wire and the green ground wire is the white is grounded at the power station and the green is grounded at the Breaker box.
The neutral will only go as far back to the sub station, not the powerstation.
In the UK we'd call one neutral (substation) and the other earth (house).
The powerstation isn't necessarily just connected to earth at the sub station and either way there is likely to be a potential difference between the two.
I don't know about the US, and in the UK it's not everywhere but the neutral is connected to ground at various points to try to stop this.
http://www.emfs.info/Sources+of+EMFs/distribution/UK/
edit: they have a link for the US too http://www.emfs.info/Sources+of+EMFs/distribution/USA/
If there is a fault then the neutral can become live, which can cause a lot of problems. If you have an RCD then it tries to save you from some of these.
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Fair enough, point being its grounded on power company property. I tell all my customers it you have more than a .2 volt difference between common and ground there is likely a problem.
I've found many problem sites where the common was bad and the machine tries to return thru the ground, and they wonder why they get a shock and the machine doesn't work.lol
Chris
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RCDs are compulsory in Australia for new houses and any electrical work to a certain value. Melting pwr supplies are one way to make them trip.
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@Gertsy,
RCDs? Is that like a ground fault interrupt?
Chris
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@Gertsy,
RCDs? Is that like a ground fault interrupt?
Chris
Indeed, residual current device, so if there's current flowing to earth, above a certain level, it trips the switch and shuts off power to the power points/outlets in the house...
My A520 switchmode power supply would cause an RCD I have in a power board/strip to trip.... occasionally... :roflmao:
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Hi Amigans!
I was away for a few days without internet access. Great responses though!
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Bah, Amiga.org is full of Doubting Thomases. Just don't electrocute yourself or jam a screwdriver into a capacitor. ;)
One thing to keep in mind is if you get a PSU that doesn't line up with the openings on the back of the case, you'll have to Dremel a hole in the back for them. No big deal, I did this in mine when I added a 3-speed fan inside the stock PSU and needed a way to mount the fan speed switch, but just to keep in mind. That metal case is a B****, they didn't use thin stuff back in the day, LOL. ;)
Yea I thought about cutting a hole for the power switch, I might still do that but like you said it is a thick back. It's just one more reminder that the A2000 is very robust! Case and all.
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PS - let us know next of kin, so if you do die while doing this we have an address to send flowers, LOL. :smack:
Nah! Just put up a memorial here on Amiga.org! Ha
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Here in the States with 120VAC you have a white wire that is common ground and a black or red wire that is "Hot". The only difference between the white wire and the green ground wire is the white is grounded at the power station and the green is grounded at the Breaker box.
Chris
Thanks for pointing that out, I was never clear on the white wire.