Amiga.org
Amiga computer related discussion => Amiga Hardware Issues and discussion => Topic started by: sturulez on August 18, 2013, 11:36:12 PM
-
I turned on my amiga today only to notice the screen didn't come on. A red LED came up above the power button, but not picture?
Is it yours and truly dead?
Any help in getting this working would be appreciated.
Many thanks
-
The RGB cable came unplugged.
-
I turned on my amiga today only to notice the screen didn't come on. A red LED came up above the power button, but not picture?
Is it yours and truly dead?
It could be. My first 1084S lost it's flyback transformer and wouldn't work with video ever again, though the audio still worked.
-
It could be. My first 1084S lost it's flyback transformer and wouldn't work with video ever again, though the audio still worked.
So you replaced the flyback trannie and had a working monitor again, right? :lol:
-
So you replaced the flyback trannie and had a working monitor again, right? :lol:
I've done it many times, but then I was repairing things for a living back when. Flybacks were a common fail on the 1084 models. They would normally go and take a few other parts to the grave with them. Power light, no picture.
With the back of you hand lightly against the screen, turn it on and off a few times. Feel the hair on your hand "tingle" a bit from static electricity? If no, then probably flyback trouble. Today you'd have to go far and wide to even find a replacement transformer. Maybe time to get a nice new "flicker fixer" and hook up to a new flat screen.
Plaz
-
I've heard that many 1084's can be brought back to life just by hitting the solder points with a hot gun and letting them reflow. If you're lucky that's the case with yours. Good luck!
-
I'm determined to keep the monitor and get it repaired. Do you think it would be a costly process? Even if you say it could be the fly back transformer.
-
Also when I load a game up the sound works okay but just no picture :-(
-
You might want to hunt around for someone local who has an old one they can spare, and try to pick that up for cheap (at least to use for parts). FYI these things don't seem to survive being shipped very well, hence the recommendation to look for a local seller.
-
With the back of you hand lightly against the screen, turn it on and off a few times. Feel the hair on your hand "tingle" a bit from static electricity? If no, then probably flyback trouble.
As said above, but do also check if turning the picture width/height adjustments on the rear of the monitor have any effect. In my 1084S the V.HEIGHT potentiometer on the rear had a broken soldering causing the screen to be powered on but without any picture shown. Cracked solderings on the inputs can also cause blank screen so try fiddling the connectors while power on to see if there is any life.
-
As said above, but do also check if turning the picture width/height adjustments on the rear of the monitor have any effect. In my 1084S the V.HEIGHT potentiometer on the rear had a broken soldering causing the screen to be powered on but without any picture shown. Cracked solderings on the inputs can also cause blank screen so try fiddling the connectors while power on to see if there is any life.
Okay i will give that a go. I have phoned up a few places that deal with repairs on CRTdisplays. I got one quote saying £155. I do think that is a bit steap to be honest. Ive seen a commodore 1960 multi sync monitor in good condition. Would anyone know if these monitors are any good?
Also does it come with built in speakers?
thanks.
-
Just remember that the LOPT transformer outputs 10 to 25Kv (depending on model) and its DC = lethal. Please be careful when tinkering around with CRTs, and don't be anywhere near the back of it when powered up unless you know what you are doing. Even when powered off you can get a lethal (and I mean lethal!) shock from the tube where EHT cap connects to the tube.
-
Okay i will give that a go. I have phoned up a few places that deal with repairs on CRTdisplays. I got one quote saying £155. I do think that is a bit steap to be honest. Ive seen a commodore 1960 multi sync monitor in good condition. Would anyone know if these monitors are any good?
Also does it come with built in speakers?
thanks.
Hello mate, my Philips CM 8833 died earlier this year. AFAIK it's a 1084 with a Philips badge on with slightly different cosmetics. The fault was that I got a power light but no picture or whistle, and something in there was making a square wave or triange wave sort of tone/beep. Anyway....I got mine repaired for £70 at my local TV repair shop and I'm pleased to say he did a really good job, and the picture is better than ever since I got it back. :)
It was the Flyback Transformer, aka Line Output Transformer (LOPT) which was kaput. He sourced a new LOPT and charged me £25 for the part, and £45 labour.
I'll type out what I see on the box (I kept it!):
classic
www.classic-serviceparts.com (http://www.amiga.org/forums/www.classic-serviceparts.com)
FLYBACK TRANSFORMER
MONITOR
FBT43410
REF: AT2079/30101
33410
(And the box has ELDOR branding)
Where abouts are you? I'm in north Nottinghamshire.
-
True on those solder connections too, but most aren't so lucky. If you can find someone still stocking the flybacks and a reasonable repair rate it just might make it. BUT, there were many types of 1084's each with slightly different version flybacks. Commodore didn't make monitors, they sourced them rebranded from different vendors. The best and probably best-known 1080's 1084's from Magnavox/Phillips. Ones from other vendors were poorer quality, generally didn't last as long. Today if someone tried to give me a 1950/1960 I'd tell them to bin it. Poor quality, multiple failure. (though your mileage may vary)
This page gives a nice break down on models...
http://gona.mactar.hu/Commodore/monitor/Commodore_monitors_by_model_number.html
As someone above said..... there are lethal voltages inside. The can kill. If you're not experienced, then let the pro's handle it. Good luck, I hope you have good video again soon.
Plaz
-
As someone above said..... there are lethal voltages inside. The can kill. If you're not experienced, then let the pro's handle it. Good luck, I hope you have good video again soon.
Im glad people keep saying this over and over its very true. THESE MONITORS ARE DANGEROUS. DO NOT work on them unless you know exactly what you are doing. You can die from it. I knew of a video artist in nyc who died from a CRT discharge. (He used to take insides out of tvs and make art pieces)
-
I repaired TV's, monitors and other high voltage electronics for 25 years AFTER I had been trained by private schooling and the military. I've heard many stories of people who lost their lives from voltage not only from monitors, but from cars, appliances and air conditioning systems. Thank goodness I don't have any personal experiences to share... other than all the years I've spent telling other people to "STAY OUT OF THERE!" ;)
I still repair the occasional flat panel systems too, and those are just as dangerous as the retro tubes. So stay out of there too!!
Plaz
-
IMHO people should really just junk all those old retro tube TV's/CRT's into the trash, and get themselves a nice LCD monitor, but I know that idea is shunned upon here at a.org. *wink wink* ;-)
-
IMHO people should really just junk all those old retro tube TV's/CRT's into the trash, and get themselves a nice LCD monitor, but I know that idea is shunned upon here at a.org. *wink wink* ;-)
Hey, if you're buying, Mike....... :laugh1:
-
I repaired TV's, monitors and other high voltage electronics for 25 years AFTER I had been trained by private schooling and the military. I've heard many stories of people who lost their lives from voltage not only from monitors, but from cars, appliances and air conditioning systems. Thank goodness I don't have any personal experiences to share... other than all the years I've spent telling other people to "STAY OUT OF THERE!" ;)
I still repair the occasional flat panel systems too, and those are just as dangerous as the retro tubes. So stay out of there too!!
Plaz
When I was an apprentice elec engineer I was working on a colour monitor (on my own) and got too close to a leaking LOPT transformer - you could smell the ozone and hear a ticking noise, the ticking was high voltage seeping out from near the edge of the transformer to some nearby point, but it was so small an arc I couldnt see it. Anyway, got too close to it - ~25Kv down my arm, likely had a heart attack because whilst I 'fell away' from the point instead of into it, I collapsed on the floor and was in a cold sweat for probably 15 minutes and couldnt even get up off the floor.
That was the day a monitor nearly killed me for my lack of respect of DC high voltages. To this day I stay well away from the internals of a powered up monitor and sweat a little when I am working inside it even when its off. So yes, monitors are dangerous things. Some things are not worth tinkering with unless you know what you are doing - I knew what I was doing (even as an apprentice), but my inexperience meant I didnt expect EHT to be arcing anywhere from what looks like a solid plastic molded LOPT. Voltage finds a way when the conditions are right, that's why a lot of these high voltage boards have cut out gaps in the PCB etc, some times around LOPT.
-
For some reason now the monitor works. I fiddled around with the cables at the back of the monitor, mainly the large round one which i believe is the power cable. And hey presto it works. Not sure why it stopped working a few days ago.
I suppose the only problem is how long will it last before it goes off again.
-
For some reason now the monitor works. I fiddled around with the cables at the back of the monitor, mainly the large round one which i believe is the power cable. And hey presto it works. Not sure why it stopped working a few days ago.
I suppose the only problem is how long will it last before it goes off again.
Glad it's working now, hopefully permenantly. It sounds like it could be a cap or resistor on PSU side if it comes back. LOPT faults aren't normally intermittent like that. Could also be a dry solder joint, perhaps on PSU side.
Regards 'fiddled around' - that's how you kill yourself! When you say round cable I am not sure where you mean?
-
Glad it's working now, hopefully permenantly. It sounds like it could be a cap or resistor on PSU side if it comes back. LOPT faults aren't normally intermittent like that. Could also be a dry solder joint, perhaps on PSU side.
Regards 'fiddled around' - that's how you kill yourself! When you say round cable I am not sure where you mean?
I got the picture that he didn't open the monitor. To me it sounds like just a loose cable or intermittent connector. Power cable is the black thin cable, the big round one is the RGB cable.
-
I got the picture that he didn't open the monitor. To me it sounds like just a loose cable or intermittent connector. Power cable is the black thin cable, the big round one is the RGB cable.
Feel free to flame away, but if OP doesn't know the difference between the power cable and the RGB cable plugged into the back of his monitor, probably best not to give advice how to disassemble or work on the insides of one, LOL. ;) Oh well, glad it's working again!
-
may be that the fiddling with the back of the unit moved the pcb enough to "fix" the cold solder joint which is almost always on the flyback on the 1084s.
one time this happened to me and I was too lazy to discharge everything on the monitor, I stuck a sharpie pen between the flyback and its metal shield and that bridged the correct cold joints to make the screen come back on... in fact I left the pen in there, and put the cover back on...