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Amiga computer related discussion => Amiga Hardware Issues and discussion => Topic started by: CodeHunter on June 23, 2013, 01:56:03 AM
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I am located in North America (USA, not Canada), and I just bought a mint condition CD32 (never taken out of its protective plastic coverings).
1) The power supply unit says: INPUT 220~240. Does it mean it is an European one?
2) The power supply main cable (going to the wall) does not feature an actual plug (three pronged or not), it feature just three loose wires. Is this normal?
3) Can I use my Amiga 500 (or A600, or even my A1200) power supply instead?
4) If it is indeed a PAL system, how can I convert it into a NTSC?
This is the original post, on Ebay but I bought it locally from him, so probably he has forgotten to take his listing off.
Please let me know! Since I have feeling this guys just defrauded me.
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2) The power supply main cable (going to the wall) does not feature an actual plug (three pronged or not), it feature just three loose wires. Is this normal?
3) Can I use my Amiga 500 (or A600, or even my A1200) power supply instead?
2) It should have some kind of plug. How else would it plug in so you could use it?
3) Not directly. But yes if modified/adapted.
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2) It should have some kind of plug. How else would it plug in so you could use it?
I am not sure why it is like it, but there is no sign of tampering.
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Input: 220~240 means it's a European or some other foreign market PSU.
If you're in Europe, no reason why you couldn't just get a plug from the hardware store and wire it on there; perhaps you have an unfinished item that was destined for a certain market but never made it and was never completed?
If you're in North America your best bet would probably be to just get one of these and run it off a normal PC power supply (rather than trying to hunt down a CD32-specific one):
http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=885
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I see. At first, yes, I was really upset that I ended up getting a PAL system, but I am beginning to like it, it is in mint condition, even the plastic wrappings and still intact, and it is a A100 UK model. The original cardboard and carton is also in very good shape. Granted I paid a bit extra for it, but at the end of the day, I think I am owning a piece of history, nevertheless.
My Sony PVM-20l5 is a multisync native 15Khz RGB monitor (PAL and NTSC) so I am hoping I can connect it at least via S-Video. Or I can use a modern LCD monitor (have many of them laying around, DELL, etc.)
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Now I am going to be bold and ask the ultimate question (even though I haven't been able to test out my new PAL CD32 yet!) and see where would I be able to find one of these:
http://www.bigbookofamigahardware.com/bboah/product.aspx?id=1883
For connection to an RGB monitor.
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Now I am going to be bold and ask the ultimate question (even though I haven't been able to test out my new PAL CD32 yet!) and see where would I be able to find one of these:
http://www.bigbookofamigahardware.com/bboah/product.aspx?id=1883
For connection to an RGB monitor.
Hardly anywhere. "Very rare" - genuinely. Not just eBay "rare" LOL
Much easier to get hold of...and I estimate would probably cost roughly the same...one of these...
http://www.bigbookofamigahardware.com/bboah/product.aspx?id=1880
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Amiga-CD32-Floppy-Drive-/271210732146?pt=UK_VintageComputing_RL&hash=item3f256b5a72
With one of these to much (with SCART or RGB connection on the end)
http://www.ebay.de/itm/AMIGA-CD32-FLOPPY-DISK-DRIVE-RGB-CABLE-DB-15-CONNECTOR-2-RCAs-READ-BEFORE-BUY-/151063957558?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item232c1d103
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If you have the "french" version with an 8-pin mini DIN video connector you can get RGB video with the right cable. Anyway either way you can use the luminance pin to check if you have 15 625 Hz line frequency or 50 Hz vertical sync.
That last expansion accessory seems to indicate these signals are available directly on the expansion bus. Proberbly so the mpeg module can do it's overlay of played movie.
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Are these two cables do the same thing, that is connect to the back of "CD32fWSI" FLOPPY DISK drive unit and connect via SCART to my RGB monitor?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amiga-CD32-Floppy-Drive-to-SCART-TV-or-monitor-Cable-lead-/330911839019
and
http://www.ebay.de/itm/AMIGA-CD32-FLOPPY-DISK-DRIVE-RGB-CABLE-DB-15-CONNECTOR-2-RCAs-READ-BEFORE-BUY-/151063957558?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item232c1d103&clk_rvr_id=493458079358
What I don't understand is how can a floppy connector, in this image:
http://www.bigbookofamigahardware.com/bboah/media/download_photos/e9e3177e-3d2b-48ee-ade9-c25ad5d27ebe.jpg
provide RGB video signal out.
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Yes - those two cables are (essentiallly - except for the RCA audio) the same thing.
Not sure I understand the question on the last part...but...the top connection is a parallel port, the bottom connection is the RGB port.
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I guess someone confused floppy and video connector. On A500 the video connector on the computer is a DB23-male (compare (https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2d/AMIGA500-3.jpg))
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Hi,
OK, Lets see if I can get this right, first don't use that power supply, it is the dreaded European power supply. Will not work in N. America, but on a good note, all CD-32 use the same DC power inputs, so you can get an old PC power supply (can even be a old AT power supply) look up the voltages coming off the main plug and find the +12V, -12V, 5V and ground on the PC power supply main connector (don't use the drive connectors, it can cause problems in the future if you expand your CD32) now once you have that you can cut the plug off the European power supply (make sure you cut the wire behind the plug at least 2 to 3 feet, oh heck just cut it about 6-7 inches away from the power supply) and then look up the power input setting on the CD32 (you can get those off the old hardware site) and then hook up the wires to the appropriate places on the power supply. This should give you a working power supply for your CD32. As far as the NTSC or PAL, I believe if I remember right that if you hold both keys down on your mouse it will come up with a screen asking which graphics mode do you want to start up with, I have a SX-1 and it has a jumper for that, but I wired in a switch so that at a flip of a switch I can tell it to start up in which mode. If I had a schematic I could probably tell you where to solder wires to the expansion port connector to put the switch in, just remember always have your unit off before switching, probably wouldn't hurt with it on, but why take a chance.
and remember
for any real complicated questions on your Amiga problems, please contact that favorite moderator, the one who wears a hard hat, I can't seem to remember his name right now, for all your Amiga needs.
smerf
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Hi,
For the video I bought one of these, works great on my A1200, CD32, A500, and my Atari, play stations etc.
Video Converter for replace to Amiga 1200 2000 RGB Monitor + Power adapter 5V 2A
Costs $39.95 and it suits the needs if you don't want to spend a lot of money, also you can buy a more expensive one already in a box and running if you aren't good at building stuff in electronics. I purchased mine on ebay.
Now there are some clowns on this site, that will yell and hiss, that it is a piece of junk, doesn't give the proper colors, and has sparkles in it. They should read the frapping instructions, the sparkles come from an improper ground, and the color can be adjusted by adjustment switches on the card. The only thing is do not, and I stress do not use the 5V off the video connector on the Amiga, it isn't strong enough to support the card. So much for the yo yo that said I bought one and it ruined my Amiga, check the amp ranges on the Amiga and the card your are going to use.
smerf
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it it actually works its probably a PAL :)
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smerf, Does it really use -12V DC ?
http://www.hardwarebook.info/Amiga_CD32_Power
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smerf, Does it really use -12V DC ?
http://www.hardwarebook.info/Amiga_CD32_Power
Got me on that one. It has been at least 8 years since I even looked at my CD32, but according to the hardware book, the answer seem to be no, it doesn't use -12 v dc. Anyhow here is a site to get info on how to use a PC power supply.
http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/amiga_hacks/Amiga_Power_supplies/body_amiga_power_supplies.html
Nice work, on your question, sorry for the misinfo, like I said it has been at least 8 years since I looked at my CD 32, been thinking of bringing it out of the attic and hookint it up on my desk, this way I can put my Amiga 4000 away. (Nice having an SX-1).
and
Remember for any hard questions, be sure to talk to that moderator who wears a hard hat, you know old what is his name, (darn I keep forgettin).
smerf
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Seems this thread gives the answer: Amiga cd32 psu pinouts + A500 psu pinouts (http://www.amiga.org/forums/showthread.php?t=36109)
CD32 4-Pin Din Male (At PSU end looking directly on)
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m301/aaronlittle/cd32.jpg)
1 = 12v yellow
2 = Unused
3 = GND
4 = 5v Red
I'm not certain if Commodore PSUs use the same colour conventions as modern PC PSUs, but I've based those colours from the ATX PSU I'm using for my CD32.
The A500 male plug
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m301/aaronlittle/a500.jpg)
1 = Shield
2 = +12v Brown
3 = -12v White
4 = GND Black
5 = 5v Red
However I'm unsure on the "not used" because RS-232 ports may malfunction silently. As RS-232 needs at least -3V to be standards compliant. This can be accomplished with an charge pump if not provided by the PSU directly.
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However I'm unsure on the "not used" because RS-232 ports may malfunction silently. As RS-232 needs at least -3V to be standards compliant. This can be accomplished with an charge pump if not provided by the PSU directly.
The serial port on the CD-32 uses TTL voltage levels.
All the signals required for RGB output are available on the motherboard at TP9.
http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/downloads/CD32_V3_schematics.pdf
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I am planning to use a PC PSU in near future for my PAL CD32, but as someone who has never seen or used a CD32, I am very eager to test it out as soon as possible, that is why running to a local store, getting a step down trasformer and a plug seems a bit faster solution for this need (as opposed to getting a PSU, and a soldering iron).
So are you saying that if I get a plug and a step down convertor my PAL brick would still not work, or is it just underpowered and would generally go bad over time? since my only concern is to plug and play this darn thing!
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Watch out for bad capacitors in the power supply. And run it for a while and measure it before use.
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Since my CD32 is a PAL system, does it mean that if I connect it to a real RGB monitor (15KHz), I will notice interlace artifacts?
I know that I can NOT connect my PAL CD32 via an RGB cable into my Commodore 1084-S D1 since this monitor is NTSC.
But I am sure my Sony PVM-20L5 which is a multisync, would be able to. The question is there is going to be noticeable interlace or not.
Here is the specification for my Sony monitor:
http://www.broadcastbaron.com/infopvm20l5.htm
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Since my CD32 is a PAL system, does it mean that if I connect it to a real RGB monitor (15KHz), I will notice interlace artifacts?
I know that I can NOT connect my PAL CD32 via an RGB cable into my Commodore 1084-S D1 since this monitor is NTSC.
You CAN connect your PAL CD32 via an RGB cable into my Commodore 1084-S D1 and it will work quite nicely. Commodore monitors will display PAL or NTSC no problem.
You'll notice interlace artifacts if you use an interlaced video mode on your CD32.
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Thanks for your kind message. OK here are some of the shots of the actual unit, displaying the missing plug (naked three wires), Serial number on the box and the unit NOT matching, and the intact protective plastic film on the CD and Amiga logo:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/
I don't care if the unit has been swapped, as long as it powers on and play. But the seller was not an honest person, since I have to buy the plug, transformer (or create one from PC PSU).
Is there any disadvantage of having a PAL system over NTSC?
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Based on the tag on the PSU, it looks like the lack of plug was deliberate. Maybe the UK folks can answer better, but isn't it fairly common to manually install plugs on UK appliances?
A 220V-to-110V converter will run you about $40 at Radio Shack, but I think the Molex adapter that AmigaKit sells is a better option.
A PAL CD32 is arguably superior because most of the CD32's software is PAL. Yes, you can switch between NTSC and PAL in software, but having PAL native hardware saves you a step.
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i recall buying stuff from the UK and got .. no plug. Perhaps it's a custom there.
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OK, I got a step-up transformer (I will make a PC PSU later this week), and I am about to make a lead cable for it. This is what I have done so far:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/
Step 1)
Cut a NEMA 1-15P (US) cable, so I have a two pronged plug:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/
Step 2)
Connect this plug to an adapter which goes into the step-up transformator (I know it is very messy, but I am dying to power this thing up!)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/
Step 3) I am not sure which one of the two stripped wires from my NEMA cable goes to which PAL CD32 brick wires (this is the step that I need your help please)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/
Your kind comments are appreciated!
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What kind of monitor is on the last two photos in this link (http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/) ..?
Seems advanced..
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Oh, it is not mine, but my Sony PVM-20L5 is very similar to it, it is a native 15KHz multisync RGB monitor. I run all my MAME and other emulators on it and they look absolutely gorgeous in their RGB glory. I also have my PS1 and Sega SATURN hooked up to it (vai RGB to SCART) and they look phenomenal. Once you RGB, there is no going back!
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What makes it better than any random TFT screen with RGB input? ;)
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OK, I got a step-up transformer (I will make a PC PSU later this week), and I am about to make a lead cable for it. This is what I have done so far:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/
Step 1)
Cut a NEMA 1-15P (US) cable, so I have a two pronged plug:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/
Step 2)
Connect this plug to an adapter which goes into the step-up transformator (I know it is very messy, but I am dying to power this thing up!)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/
Step 3) I am not sure which one of the two stripped wires from my NEMA cable goes to which PAL CD32 brick wires (this is the step that I need your help please)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/
Your kind comments are appreciated!
I think you should go about this differently. Get an actual UK plug to attach to the power supply, and then get a converter for that to the Radio Shack adapter. Also make sure you have the correct voltage adapter - one to run 220V appliances on 110V lines.
What makes it better than any random TFT screen with RGB input? ;)
Proper overscan. Can't beat it.
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Regarding power, perhaps the 50 vs 60 Hz will screw things up? ie saturate transformer core such that it would overheat with enogh time.
Can't overscan be adjusted on the monitor?
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OK, I decided to go ahead and use a PC PSU to power up my PAL CD32 and I am about the make a cable for it:
I have already got the following parts:
"Y" Molex adapter
4 pin MALE plug
Now, I wanted to follow the guides on making this cable, and there seems to be a discrepancy between the pin layouts:
There seems to be a discrepancy between the pin layouts:
The following two (pin and chart) are from http://www.hardwarebook.info (http://www.hardwarebook.info/Amiga_CD32_Power):
(http://www.hardwarebook.info/images/6/61/Din4m.png)
4 PIN DIN MALE at the Power Supply cable:
(http://www.hardwarebook.info/images/6/61/Din4m.png)(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7459/9131663090_1b4f83f4e5_o.jpg)
4 PIN DIN FEMALE at the CD32:
(http://www.hardwarebook.info/images/d/db/Din4f.png)(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7459/9131663090_1b4f83f4e5_o.jpg)
(http://www.hardwarebook.info/images/d/db/Din4f.png)
The following image (I have intentionally flipped it) is from http://www.ianstedman.co.uk:
(http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/amiga_hacks/Amiga_Power_supplies/body_amiga_power_supplies.html#Adding_a_new_PSU_to_a_CD32)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5491/9131695194_0ec619da40.jpg)
(http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/amiga_hacks/Amiga_Power_supplies/cd32power-closeup.JPG)
And finally, this is what xArtx kindly provided in this thread (http://eab.abime.net/895518-post23.html)
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m301/aaronlittle/cd32.jpg)
xArt's image and the hardwarebook.info (http://eab.abime.net/www.hardwarebook.info/Amiga_CD32_Power) match, but there is a discrepancy between those two and the ones posted on http://www.ianstedman.co.uk.
(http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/amiga_hacks/Amiga_Power_supplies/body_amiga_power_supplies.html#Adding_a_new_PSU_to_a_CD32)
In other words, one source say that I have to connect the +5VDC (RED) to Pin 1, and +12VDC (YELLOW) to Pin 2, and finally GND to Pin 3.
And the other says: that I have to connect the +5VDC (RED) to Pin 1, and +12VDC (YELLOW) to Pin 4, and finally GND to Pin 2.
which one is the correct one?
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(http://www.hardwarebook.info/images/6/61/Din4m.png)4 PIN DIN MALE at the Power Supply cable.
(http://www.hardwarebook.info/images/6/61/Din4m.png)
4 PIN DIN FEMALE at the CD32.
(http://www.hardwarebook.info/images/d/db/Din4f.png)
(http://www.hardwarebook.info/images/6/61/Din4m.png)
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Measure the power supply!
Or at least follow the PCB traces..
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OK, I got it to work (followed the images with actual RED and YELLOW cables attached) and it works.
Now the question is:
Whey I power it up, I can see the animation boot screen, and when I press any button on the controller, it goes to a language screen selection. I choose ENGLISH (thinking it is a PAL system), but nothing happens. If I press a button, it just resets the system and I am back to the language selection screen.
I have a game (DIGGER that came with it) inserted before or after the boot screen, but it does not load the game. I even inserted an audio CD, but it does not go any further.
What seems to be wrong?!
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Not reading the disc? Maybe something needs to be cleaned, or the motor is stuck? Just guessing, good luck!
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Not reading the disc? Maybe something needs to be cleaned, or the motor is stuck? Just guessing, good luck!
No. The "CD" logo on the boot menu does do the animated spin, meaning that it can not read the disc. Mind you these are the original, genuine discs (both DIGGER and the actual audio CD, Iron Maiden). I am baffled...
EDIT:
I thought maybe the system is not getting enough power to spin the CD drive, so I went ahead and soldered a two pronged (NEMA type), plug into the original PAL brick and plugged in the setp-up converter (transformer):
The system boots up, but just like before, the CD does not spin at all. The CD access light does not lit up.
Questions:
1) Is the lens supposed be emitting some sort of light? Since I don't see anything.
2) Unlike the modern laptop CD-DVD drives, where you can feel and hear a "click" when you insert the disc, the CD32 seems to not have any "lock" mechanism, you just place the CD on the drive. Is this normal?
3) I have a feeling that the guy indeed defrauded me. After spending $475 for the system, plus $50 for the step-up transformer and other accessories, the darn thing does not work. What should I do?
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The CD drive seems to be dead. I opened my CD32 system, and could not find any loose connection or anything at all. The guy indeed defrauded me for $500.
Be it a lesson to me, to NOT buy a darn system, unless it is powered right in front of my eyes, and tested.
Is a CD drive replacement available for sale anywhere?
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OK, I got it to work (followed the images with actual RED and YELLOW cables attached) and it works.
So this is the picture that shows the correct connections?
(http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/amiga_hacks/Amiga_Power_supplies/cd32power-closeup.JPG)
Regarding the CD-drive, perhaps you could test the drive with a MKE/Panasonic (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panasonic_CD_interface) interface found in som really old PC-soundcard like Sound Blaster Pro, CT1330 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soundblaster#Sound_Blaster_Pro.2C_CT1330), Gravis Ultrasound MAX (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gravis_Ultrasound#UltraSound_MAX) and Gravis Ultrasound CD3 soundcards ..?
And even better get an extra drive with Panasonic/Sony/Mitsumi interface (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panasonic_CD_interface) and see if the CD32 runs with it. Just remember it's neither IDE, P-ATA or SCSI-8.
Considering the age and use of the unit. It's no wonder that the mechanical side of things are broken. Getting an original (non-FPGA) Amiga to work is likely expensive buys + repairs. Knowhow doesn't hurt either. And some sellers just don't have the equipment to test these things.
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I see. Thanks for your comment. I am exhausted and wasted a lot of time on this darn thing.
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I hope you haven't given up? If I were you I would search ebay.com for some "Panasonic/Sony/Mitsumi/MKB interface" that most PC owners would send to trash normally. And then buy it dirt cheap.
At least then you could try the unit by opening it and using the alternative CD. With real luck you might piece together the original form factor too.
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The guy indeed defrauded me for $500.
Not directed at you personally but I see this a lot, was the system sold as "tested/working", or "untested/original/never unboxed/20-year-old parts/blah blah blah"? If the latter, you can't really claim "fraud", just FYI. Anyhow, it sounds like a bunk drive, probably just from sitting in storage for 20 years. Shouldn't be too hard to get working again with the right spare parts!
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I think this is the pinout:
http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~theom/electronics/panasoniccd.html
However if you look at the Gravis soundcards (and perhaps soundblaster) you can see three sockets. CD-Rom interface was a mess those days!
(S-ATA + BluRay is a breeze in comparision)
(Anyone up for Amiga CD64 with Blu-Ray? :D)
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I see, many thanks for your kind remarks. I might pursue a spare CD drive in the next couple of weeks or so, as I am very frustrated and exhausted by this horrid experience. I am sure the guy who cheated me, would repay back in another shape or form in life.
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I see, many thanks for your kind remarks. I might pursue a spare CD drive in the next couple of weeks or so, as I am very frustrated and exhausted by this horrid experience. I am sure the guy who cheated me, would repay back in another shape or form in life.
They do show up on ebay from time to time, usually under "CD32 drive mechanism". You could also place a wanted ad on Amibay.... you'll be suprised how many people have unwanted spares. You will find a drive eventually, it'll just be a matter of time. Good luck mate, hope you get it sorted.
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Here are images of my opened CD32:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7422/9147415807_0440f35f2d.jpg)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3768/9149645800_b32bf98b2f.jpg)
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2839/9147415979_4dcf0852a1.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5446/9147416639_c0796f6531.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7289/9149645958_c615cc5df5.jpg)
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2848/9149646332_c8f56d942a.jpg)
I really don't know why the drive does not work. I have unplued the cables and turned the system on, I even took the CD drive completely out (even removed the data cable), and the CD32 turned on, but it did not complain about lack of optical drive. I did not see any sign of tampering, looked pristine and brand new. I am baffled as to why a brand new system should not work!:shocked
It is the motor that is dead I think. I don't see any faint light coming out from the lens also. If I could properly diagnose it, I wouldn't mind spending more and obtaining the right parts to fix it, it screams to be brought back to life!
More image:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90510403@N03/
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Perhaps there's some diagnostic program one can run from floppy?
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Perhaps there's some diagnostic program one can run from floppy?
I don't have the floppy drive unit for CD32 unfortunately.
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Even a brand new item can arrive DOA, this is not brand new it's 20 years old!
Even if it's new old stock it's not a brand new item, it might not have even worked from day 1.
The first thing I would look to change is the laser, they're often sold quite cheaply on eBay.
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I'd examine the motor first. That's probably the most likely thing to fail from sitting in storage for 2 decades. It may just need some jostling or re-lubricating to get moving again.
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I see, thanks for your comments.
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If you power it up with the lid off do you get any activity out of the motor at all? That big gear is just begging to be grabbed and spun around a few times, to see if it moves freely. Maybe put a drop or two of lithium grease on it? Also I think you mentioned not seeing any light coming out of the laser aperture. It should be pretty easy for anyone else with a CD32 to check if this is normal or not?
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I'd examine the motor first. That's probably the most likely thing to fail from sitting in storage for 2 decades. It may just need some jostling or re-lubricating to get moving again.
I totally agree here. I'd be making sure it had plenty of WD-40 inside it...try and get it down the shaft if there's no holes in the motor...and manually turn the motor yourself to get the oil to penetrate.
A motor that's been stored for so long, and in damp conditions can easily seize up as it will corrode. Oil will bring it back to life though.
I wouldn't be looking into the laser either... It's a "Class 1 Laser Product" no doubt and I simply wouldn't risk it. Plus, I doubt you'd see anything as it'll be working in the Infrared range no doubt.
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I wouldn't be looking into the laser either... It's a "Class 1 Laser Product" no doubt and I simply wouldn't risk it. Plus, I doubt you'd see anything as it'll be working in the Infrared range no doubt.
Good point here. A lot of digital cameras can see infrared light though. Try pointing your TV remote control at one and see if the front of it lights up when you press a button (when looking on the screen of your camera), then try the same thing with your CD32. That'll test it! ;)
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Yeah amen to CLASS 1 LASER PRODUCT (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_safety#Class_1), the sticker is there for a reason. Value your eyes over any machine.
But a photodiode could be used to detect the beam.
I would also check if the rotation motor work (does it even have power?), that the sled motor that moves to the head to the right track can move and have power too etc..
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Yeah amen to CLASS 1 LASER PRODUCT (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_safety#Class_1), the sticker is there for a reason. Value your eyes over any machine.
But a photodiode could be used to detect the beam.
I would also check if the rotation motor work (does it even have power?), that the sled motor that moves to the head to the right track can move and have power too etc..
No mechanical movement in my CD32. No light emitting form the Lens either.
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No mechanical movement in my CD32. No light emitting form the Lens either.
Make sure you have a CD on the spindle when you test it. Without a disk there, drives generally do nothing.
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Make sure you have a CD on the spindle when you test it. Without a disk there, drives generally do nothing.
Sure, I had an audio CD, original Diggers game CD, etc. Nothing works.
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Not really keen on reading the whole thread to find out...but have you made sure the little tab on the lower right front of the lid is still there...the one that goes into the interrupter circuit within the CD32 to indicate the lid is closed and hence try to read a disc? Is the module also properly connected inside? And...not sure what it does but the little brass/copper (?) earth (?) thingo...is that seated properly within the casing (not sure what that earth does though)?
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Also the light is supposedly "invisable" so instruments may be needed to see it.
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have you made sure the little tab on the lower right front of the lid is still there...the one that goes into the interrupter circuit within the CD32 to indicate the lid is closed and hence try to read a disc?
Is there a picture of this? I am not sure, but I can absolutely hear no mechanical noise, or whirring coming from the CD drive. My PS1, SEGA Dreamcast, Saturn, they all make noticeable read-access noises.
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Is there a picture of this? I am not sure, but I can absolutely hear no mechanical noise, or whirring coming from the CD drive. My PS1, SEGA Dreamcast, Saturn, they all make noticeable read-access noises.
I was just thinking also...does the CD access light work in ANY way at all? (That may give some direction help to diagnose the problem)
*EDIT* I just found this quote of yours... "The system boots up, but just like before, the CD does not spin at all. The CD access light does not lit up."
So...without knowing exactly how everything should work...I would say it's possible the drive isn't actually getting any signals to "do anything"...and that's why it isn't "doing anything".
This.... (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k254/prob_2006/GetAttachment-1aspx.jpeg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/prob_2006/media/GetAttachment-1aspx.jpeg.html) ( apologies for the upside down photo :) )
Goes into this... (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k254/prob_2006/GetAttachmentaspx.jpeg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/prob_2006/media/GetAttachmentaspx.jpeg.html)
And then through the interruptor module within the casing...
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Hi
to see if the signal is getting to the cd module, open the lid, an watch the laser lens as you power on it should vibrate immeditely as you power on,if it does then power is getting to the cd module.
The laser might be burnt out, you can try tweeking the laser potentiometer (yellow pot under the lens)slightly mark its position first with a black marker,then turn it (2 minute intervals ) anitclockwise to see if that helps to read the cd.
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open the lid, an watch the laser lens as you power on it should vibrate immediately as you power on,if it does then power is getting to the cd module.
No, it does not do anything when I power the unit on. No movement at all.
The laser might be burnt out, you can try teeking the laser potentiometer (yellow pot under the lens)slightly mark its position first with a black marker,the turn it (2 minute intervals ) anitclockwise to see if that helps to read the cd.
OK, I might do that.
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Does the CD32 complain if the CD-rom is unplugged?
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No mechanical movement in my CD32. No light emitting form the Lens either.
@codehunter,
If you look closely at your cd32 you will see that when you lift the cd lid, there is a safety switch, that shuts it down. The only way you can get it to work with the lid opened is to over ride the safety switch.
smerf
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Does the CD32 complain if the CD-rom is unplugged?
No, it sure doesn't, I have 5 CD 32 motherboards that I power up with the SX-1 and they function normally, they use a hard drive and I use them as a mini A1200 or A4000 when I get the time I am going to try to hook up a regular CD drive to them. Just to see if I can do it.
smerf
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I was just thinking also...does the CD access light work in ANY way at all? (That may give some direction help to diagnose the problem)
*EDIT* I just found this quote of yours... "The system boots up, but just like before, the CD does not spin at all. The CD access light does not lit up."
So...without knowing exactly how everything should work...I would say it's possible the drive isn't actually getting any signals to "do anything"...and that's why it isn't "doing anything".
This.... (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k254/prob_2006/GetAttachment-1aspx.jpeg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/prob_2006/media/GetAttachment-1aspx.jpeg.html) ( apologies for the upside down photo :) )
Goes into this... (http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k254/prob_2006/GetAttachmentaspx.jpeg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/prob_2006/media/GetAttachmentaspx.jpeg.html)
And then through the interruptor module within the casing...
Hi,
That little projectile sticking out of the lid in the first picture is a safety switch actuator, when that goes into the slot it hits a safety switch and disengages it allowing power to the cd module.
Try pressing down on the with a cd inserted and see if it will work that away.
smerf
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How'd you go CodeHunter?