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Amiga computer related discussion => Amiga Hardware Issues and discussion => Topic started by: CU_AMiGA on January 31, 2004, 12:47:30 PM
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Hello :-(
Tragedy struck for me yesterday, BIG TIME. I was planning on listening to a bit of REM on the Amiga, i switched the machine on and waited for it to boot up, but nothing happened apart from a blank screen. I then noticed that the green LED was flashing like a mad thing. I switched the machine off (for about 30 seconds) and switched back on. But no luck, i just got the same problem as before (blank screen and flashing LED). I reapeated that step many times and even tried it this morning, but still no luck.
I opened up the tower, to see if anything came loose, etc. I also made sure all the chips, ROMS were seated properly. I switched the machine back on, but the same as before. I then disconnected the CD/CDRW ROM Drives and the HD and tried again, but still kept persisting. So then i took out the Blizzard PPC and Blizzardvision, and this time i got the Workbench disk screen, it was okay like that, it was working.
I then realised that there maybe a problem with the BPPC, so i took out the meg simms and took off the Blizzardvision and reinserted the BPPC on its own, and to my horror it confirmed the nightmare that i had been dreading. I have also cleaned the connector on the Amiga 1200 expansion slot and the BPPC, via cleaning fluid but still no luck, i get the same error as before.
I think that it could be a BPPC problem, but i am going to try the BPPC on another Amiga 1200 tonight. I am not to sure if it is an over heating issue or not, i looked at both 060 and 603e chips, and there were no signs of over heating whatsoever. Can anyone else think of what the problem could be and what i could do about it, and put me out of my misery!
Thank you in advance,
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Well if your BlizzardPPC is anything like mine, it may occasionally 'forget' the rather important startup code and settings in its flashrom.
When this happens for me, the ppc, memory, scsi and gfx card just bomb out. However, the 680x0 side still operates (albeit like a snail without the old fast ram). The machine just gets stuck in a crash loop when the startup sequence starts doing stuff without all the hardware initialised.
Try booting without a startup sequence and see if the card is listed in the expansion list.
If it isnt, but you can boot to a shell ok, you should find you have your 680x0 and thats it. Failing all else, I usually reflash at this point and everything works.
Other BPPC hints
1) Once a month *at least*, clean out all the crud that builds up under the heatsink. The thing is a dust trap. Get a tube of good thermal paste for putting the thing back on with (a *small* dollop on the PPC die, having cleaned the cooler underside completely).
2) Install a heatsink on the permedia2 chip. It knows how to get hot :-)
3) If you are powering your 1200T motherboard via the original power connector only, consider adding a 2nd power feed via the original floppy power header. The BlizzardPPC+BVision+Big wedge of RAM tends to draw a lot of current. I have the 040 version which is even more of a hog, and my system is unreliable without this extra feed.
If you use some sort of powered busboard that feeds the whole system, like a mediator, you might not want to do this, or seek advice first.
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will it not boot at all with the BPPC in place, just the BPPC? If you can get to the early boot menu you could try to reflash the BPPC, it could be the flash has gone haywire... If you cant even boot with the card then id say the cards dead... either that or the A1200 mobo has died somewhere...
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@Karlos
Your PPC does that too? I posted about that here a few weeks back quite worried about it... Mines done it a few times in the few weeks ive had it (my 2nd BPPC machine that is)... the last couple of times its gone its even forgotten what crystal speed it is so I have to use the MHZ switch in the flash command line to set it to 240 otherwise the flash doesnt work....
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@Ryu
Indeed it does. God knows what the problem is. In my case, the entire settings have been forgotton sometimes, other times it remembers some and not others.
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Thanks very much for the replies,
I was going to reflash the card (as a last ditch effort). I haven't tried the startup sequence yet, the green LED literally flashes after 2-3 seconds when i switch the machine on. It's funny cos i was listening to mp3s before, then i took a 30 minute break went back on, and then i get all this trouble.
I have a power tower and a 240 watt PSU, so i think i am okay there. I also cleaned the BPPC out at the beginning of January, although when i looked at it yesterday, it was a little grubby. Well, anyway, i will try what you two said and:
1) Rook at startup and see if the card itself is recognised.
2) Reflash card
3) Try new A1200 mobo
Again, your tips are much appreciated.
Cheers,
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@CU
Youd be unlucky for the 1200 mobo to have a real fault. In my experience they are robust as hell (contrary to various 2000 fanatics views of old).
Does your card have SCSI? if not, it probably has a shorter boot delay than mine, which normally idles for 10 seconds waiting for scsi hardware to spin up.
When the flashrom brainfarts, even this delay goes and it starts trying to boot almost immediately then slips up in just a few seconds.
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@Karlos,
No, my BPPC has no SCSI on it. What happens is i switch the machine on, it attempts to bootup, the green LED lights up and then the machine seems to try and bootup (after around 3 seconds) and then resets and the LED will keep flashing. I think the machine does attempt to reboot, cos the CD/CDRW drives were going crazy, their LEDs kept flashing (like they would when you first switch a computer on).
Cheers,
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@CU
That really does sound like the flashrom foible. The fact that it actually starts to boot indicates the 680x0 side is probably still working, but all the other hardware has failed to initialise. This causes a headache as soon as setpatch gets to work.
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Incidentally, regarding the reflash process, you may find the newer flash updates fail with "sector 0 is write protected", and giving you a dire warning about the end of the world :nervous:
If this happens, try to get an earlier version of the flash. I found the earlier ones flash no problem, and you can then update it (another flash) straight to the latest one ;-)
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Hi
Sometime ago my bro had the very same problem.The PPC settings gone sometimes during the powerup the machine. He solved it flashing the PPC no with the latest update but the previous at DCE page.
Another question. I have noticed that there is an option in the PPC settings to boot from CD.
I have tried with a backup of the WorkBench partition with no luck at all.
Do you know whats the way to do that?
Regards
-FrankB
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id like to know what causes the card to loose its flash... none of the other BPPC cards ive had have ever done it except my recent addition, my BPPC 240mhz 040 with scsi
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I would also try another power supply it could be at fault i have a patriot mini sized pc that had a dodgy psu and it would power up but not enough to power the machine properly if you were lucky it would work once out of so many times it was switched on .In this case thwe psu,s are known to be rubbish and capacitors in it have have bulged out a bit. :-)
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frankB: when my ide died i booted a backed up os3.9 cd of my system right of my scsi on the bppc , but i had to overide all savings to Ram:
but it worked and its one of the reasons why i am still here :).
anyway i know it didnt work well before but the flashrom i use now works on my setup atleast (with boot from cd).
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about the flash rom getting wiped, first time i heard about this was when ryu told me some time ago and seriously i have no ideas what it can be but it makes me considering to have a floppy disk with the flashrom always at hand, not done it so far but hell if it happens then i would panic without one i guess..
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Ryu wrote:
id like to know what causes the card to loose its flash... none of the other BPPC cards ive had have ever done it except my recent addition, my BPPC 240mhz 040 with scsi
Blimey. The exact same model as me! As it goes, mine only developed this problem after quite some time. There seems to be no pattern to the failure, it can be fine for months, then require several flashes in a matter of a week. Go figure :-?
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Ive had the card now for about a month and ive had to do it about 6 times so far... the previous owner didnt tell me about the problem and I assume he didnt have the problem with it going on what he said in the emails we exchanged about it..
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@Ryu
Now that I think about it, the problem with mine only started after I bought a new motherboard (a revision 2B, from Eyetech with the CC_RESET fix applied). Coincidence?
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hmm I dont know... I think the one I got came from eyetech, and the guy said the motherboard had fixes I think... I'll find out about the CC_reset when I get another PCMCIA nic for it.
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I have suffered from the same problems on my PPC card. The problem with mine was some of the caps were starting to go and "leak" not physically but electrically. Solved the problem by replacing some of the caps and I replaced the Lithium battery on the board that too had gone dead.
Now the onboard clock which turned flakey awhile back has now gone completely dead. Time for me to fix the dang thing again. I also loaded the dumb thing with heatsinks on anything that got hot including the SCSI chip. placing a heatsink on the SCSI chip almost doubled the Hard drive transfer rates.
feel the board while it is on chips should get warm not the Capacitors if they are warm or hot they are bad and should be replaced. Or you could buy a cap checker.
here are two pictures that I just took of my PPC card.
640x480 picture of my ppc (http://www.revanchellc.com/graphics/amiga/small.jpg )
Big picture of my ppc with arrows pointing to what capacitors that I am talking about. (http://www.revanchellc.com/graphics/amiga/big.jpg )
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Hi Fellas,
I tried the BPPC out yesterday and still not working. I have also found out that the LED flashes literally a second after switch on, and i can't access the early startup menu thingy. I have also tried the BPPC on 2 other A1200 mobos and got the same problem. I might disconnect everything else and see if i get a result, but i think the BPPC card is dead. :-( I took a closer look and maybe it could have been the slight overheating signs on some of the pins that done it, although evrything was working okay before that, it was like it when i brought it (second hand).
I think i am running out of options here, what else can i do, i am not a techi guy as you probably guessed, so i can't do anything else really. I don't think it is worth getting it repaired, so i may sell it as "spairs" if anyone want's it(!). Not sure what to do afterwards, get a new BPPC or sell all the Amiga parts and buy a PC. :-(
Regards,
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The card definately tries to boot and then resets, just a bit too quicky.
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kgrach: hmm a cooling rib on the scsi chip... never heard that one before, so what speeds do u get now then?
i get 8.2 megs per sec with no cooling rib..
though it does jump up and down ..
cheers
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That about the speed I get now 8-9 depends on the partition and the drive. The speed used to drop to 3.1~3.5 after being on for an hour or so.
The heat sink helps keep the speed consistant nomatter how long or big the transfer.
touch the scsi chip after doing a partition tranfer it do get hot.
Heat kills chips degrades and reduces the life span of components. keeping things cool really will prelong the life of your hardware.
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@lempkee
Same speeds you get 8-9 depending on drive and partition. The problem was after an hour or so of usage the speed used to dump to 3.1~3.5 and after prelonged usage in the summer start to give errors.
I think it was Amiga format who once suggested putting a coin under the heatshink so that it extended to the SCSI chip and help cool it down.
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He guys,
Okay. Things took a twist yesterday. I tried amigamad's idea and check the PSU. I disconnected everything apart from the mobo. I switched on the Amiga, the green LED flashed once and then done nothing, apart from a blank screen. This carried on for about 20-30 secondsa, then the machine rebooted and done the same other. I thought i was making some progress at that point, so it maybe the PSU instead of the Blizzard PPC that has blown. This was later confirmed. I connected both CD/RW drives, the HD and both FD and switched. I was about to get the shock of a lifetijme, after about 3 seconds the PSU blew up! :-o
So it sounds as though it was the PSU. So i have to get another PSU to get anything working again. But before i do, i would like to know the answers to these questions please, as it may save me time and money:
1) Are all PSU the same interms of size and screw layout?
2) What would be the best voltage/watts PSU specs for my setup: Amiga 1200T / BPPC and BVision (possibly mediator in future).
3) How much would they cost and where to get them from.
4) Any other thing i should be aware of and my Power Tower setup.
I was actually going to look in PC World later and get one, but i wan't to have the green light before i do so. As i said, your replies and help will be much appreciated.
Cheers,
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Cu_amiga:
1. No sadly not, but most are!
2. if you are going for mediator, go for P8/P9 solution psu and not ATX , if you go for mediator SX then go for ATX psu (SX have AT and ATX , Mediator (normal) has only AT.
3. Any pc store, just a normal one, 200 watt and up!
4. sorry dont got a powertower so i dont know, but i cant think of anything really, but i am sure powertower use AT styled psu, or?
goodluck!
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kgratch:
thanks for this info, i have supervised my chip and i can't say its hot nor cold, something between..
also i might get problems putting a rib on there due to my CASE (tower) design, but i will try work something out :)
so... you should glue a coin to the chip and then glue a cooler rib to the coin?, ideas are welcome, i dont want to blow it up.
my ppc has allready 3 fans on it , the 1 orginal one (exchanged it with a more powerfull one) and 1 on the 060 and 1 on the ppc cooliing rib.
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hi
1 Nopez not all PSU are the same size .
2 Get a PSU 230 watt's and up (300 would always be enough)
If you buy a Mediator Buy a SX model it has an ATX connector :-D
But beware of P96<>CGX software prob's i have an mediator in my 4000
And a lot of SW behave's not normal specially scene productions :(
But The 3D is ultra fast hehe :-D
(games just run super smooth on 1024*768*16 hehe)
And if you put A voodoo card in it get a Vooodoo 4 with 32 Megs of
ram the elbox driver let's you select to use some mem of your gfx
card as system mem, specially when playing games this gives a speed
up coz there is not as much data transfer on the PCI bus :-D
3 Just get a PSU from a random PC store in the neighbourhood.
4 dunno, fill it up with hw like i did :)
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That's splendid news. Just another point, would any of my hadrware got frazzled by the incident.
Cheers,
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Hi everybody,
Okay i have just been in PC World and seen a 300W PSU ATX. I will probably buy it, but am a little confused by ATX. Would it work with my Amiga? If no-one replies in 1/2 hour then i will just buy it, as that is the only amount of time i have got in using a library computer! :-)
Cheers,
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ppc:
Voodoo4 has SEVERE! problems with the endian AMIGA use .
U should use Voodoo3 on mediators! to get best support for games and scene stuff
also you are giving tips to an a1200 user here (cu_amiga) and myself is an a1200 mediator + ppc user, did u know that MAX memory on mediator a1200 (Sx also) with ppc only gives u MAX 8mb Gfx memory?
i think u dont ! , so to all Go for Voodoo3 and if u have a ppc , only 8mb will be used so having an voodoo5 or 4 is not gonna change anything.
on 68k a1200's it will work with 16,32 etc.
but with WOS+W3d , NO!
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cu_amiga:
yes ATX will work, but recomend u to use AT instead, read above why.
my tower (RBM TOWERHAWK IIc) came with ATX bla bla , but i had to get an AT psu and remove all the ATX stuff due to my mediator is the first version (pci1200) and has no ATX support.
in general no big changes but its the connectors that counts and since u have an Powertower well go for AT :)
cheers
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No no no CU an ATX PSU will not work in your current setup without a lot of rewireing and a lot of hastle. Your machine needs an AT PSU, and it would be better if you could get one above the 200 watt mark. Unfortunatly AT PSU's new are now rare, the last one I got, I got from an online mailorder company because I couldnt find any in my local area. I hope im not too late...
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I think you guys are all wrong.
It's obvious that the cause of this problem is the fact that he switched on the machine with the intention of listening to REM.
Amigas tend to brake down when switched on with the intention of listening to crap music, the only exception being A2000 Professional Systems equiped with Military Grade Chips (MGC), which are designed to withstand such abuse.
The only solution to your problem is playing a Hawkwind record, not forgetting to place the turntable close enough to the faulty unit, for the positively charged psychedelic energy waves to be able to reach it.
I hope this solves your problem and please don't send any money for my helpful instructions. I'm always glad to help. :-)
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Jesus? :-)
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@x56h34
Don't ask for autographs please :-)
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@lempkee
The SCSI chip only gets hot when it is worked. Lots of large file transfers burning CD's and such. CD burning was my major reason for putting the Heatsink on the chip I remember having to burn 250 CD's one night and I had the case open and a big fan blowing on the chip so as not to get frisbee's.
No don't glue a coin to the chip. The Magazines idea was to wedge a coin under the original heat sink so it connected to the scsi chip the idea was so it would tranfer heat to the original heat sink and be disapated. Brrrr!
Me I would just glue a stand alone heat sink on it using thermal epoxy. Or you could use the double sided heat sink tape. I once had a bad experience using double sided heat sink tape on the SCSI chip during one demonstration at a local users group in the middle of the demo there came a tinkling sound from inside the case like someone droped a pair of keys. The machine froze and reboots resulted in nothing. The thing fell off and shorted things out as it tumbled down the inside of the case.
I now use Artic Silver Epoxy on all my heatsinks.
Thermal tape works good too mine held on for years but my computers spends a great deal of time on the road and NY potholes are a killer.
So I like using the epoxy.
Kgrach
one of the hottest chips on the PPC board one that will remove skin is the one on the opposite side of the PPC down by the connector. If it gets hot put a heat sink on it.
one more to add to this marathon post don't use crazy glue. The heat will evaporate it and the heatsink will fall off.
Use only glue or tape made for heatsinks.
you know what would work good buy one of those chipset cooling sets they cost under a tenner they come with three heat sinks and a fan inludes the proper tape and stuff. The southbridge cooler is a perfect fit for the SCSI chip.
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@CU_Amiga
probaly too late but buy an AT power supply if thats what you originally had in the tower.
AT has two six pin power connectors labled P8&P9
make sure you have all the black wires facing each when you reconnect it. Example!
org red yel blu blk blk blk blk blk white red red red
ATX has one twenty pin power connector.
Worst case come back here and we can show you how to make an ATX adapter that will work with your setup.
Or you can buy one from Elbox or Me I make a few different ones.
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@lempkee
I got an Voodoo 5500 in my A1200 havn't really tried any 3D games with it other than Wipeout 2097 and heretic II. It works great as far as I can see. Havn't tried it with Freespace or Quake II yet
KGrach
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@everyone
Okay, thanks for the help. Shame it was a little too late! :-) Luckily, i still have a bit of cash flowing about to get yet another PSU. Could someone please provide a link as to where i can get an AT PSU (300W), homebrew or company. Or how could i make this ATX PSU work at all (it won't even switch on!). Thanks again for all the help guys, i think i can get through this! :-)
Cheers,
-edit-
@kgrach
Or how to make an ATX adaptor :-D
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Spyros wrote:
I think you guys are all wrong.
It's obvious that the cause of this problem is the fact that he switched on the machine with the intention of listening to REM.
Amigas tend to brake down when switched on with the intention of listening to crap music, the only exception being A2000 Professional Systems equiped with Military Grade Chips (MGC), which are designed to withstand such abuse.
The only solution to your problem is playing a Hawkwind record, not forgetting to place the turntable close enough to the faulty unit, for the positively charged psychedelic energy waves to be able to reach it.
I hope this solves your problem and please don't send any money for my helpful instructions. I'm always glad to help. :-)
:lol:
OI! What's wrong with REM?! :-D If REM are that "bad" then God only knows what would have happened if i switched on Tina Turner, and her cat walling! :-)
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@CU_AMiGA
Hows about you do a bit of work yourself? ;-) goto google and search for retailers in the UK that still stock AT PSU's. Also browse ebay... they tend to pop up there too... though I wouldnt hold your breath re a 300watt one, I've never seen them go above 250watt. Remember AT is old technology, they were used when the x86 cpu's werent massivly power hungry like they are now on ATX form factor motherboards.
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also I belive both eyetech and elbox sell ATX to AT converters so you might want to check that out if you want to get your current ATX PSU to work with your setup.
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@Ryu,
I have already searched for AT PSU on google, but i just kepted getting ATX ones :-x I have also looked on Elbox and Power Computing websites, but they just stock the standard 240W ones, i may get that as a last resource, but really want a 300W one. To be honest, i only thought there were one type of PSU, not AT and ATX.
Cheers
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@Ryu
Oh, i completely forgot about eyetech.
Cheers,
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Found the ATX - AT adaptor! :-) I will have a closer look tomorrow. Cheers,
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the main difference between an AT and ATX PSU is that the ATX PSU is always live, and is turned on and off via "software", wheres an AT PSU is turn on and off with a proper switch. Thats why on modern PC's you can switch them off from the shut down option, because the PSU is connected to the motherboard, so it can send the off signal to the PSU.
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Hi CU_AMIGA,
To make the ATX PSU switch on, connect the green PS-ON wire to ground (black wire).
Being an ever helpful person, I have a guide on this subject:
Amiga PSU guide (http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/amiga_hacks/Amiga_Power_supplies/amiga_power_supplies.html#ATX_PSU)
Scroll down a bit for a picture of my cable.
Can't find any AT PSU suppliers. I've seen them as 2nd hand items at local computer fairs though, worth a look if there are any in your area.
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Okay, i just sent an email to Eyetech about the ATX To AT adatpor thingy. I have had a look at the guide and pics about the ATX thing, and although i am grateful, i don't think i have the skills enough to do it. Maybe a second look may change my mind! :-)
Cheers,
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GRRR!!! Eyetech, haven't even bothered to email me back, despite me emailing them twice! :-x How lame is that. I took another look at the instructions on do-it-yourself ATX PSU. But that sort of hacking stuff is way over my head me thinks. Can anyone else fix one up for me, i will pay good money! :-)
Regards,
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Seek and you shall find: AT PSUs at CPC. (http://custom1.farnell.com/cpc/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CPC+Catalogue&category%5Fname=Computer+and+Office+%2D+Computer+Hardware+and+Accessories+%2D+Power+Supplies&product%5Fid=311138)
I assume that is what you wanted?
Add VAT and I think £3 for delivery to the price.
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Speaking of troublesome blizzards, mine needed the reflash trick again today :-(
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@Stedy,
Thanks for that link. But i really wan't to make use of the ATX PSU i have got at the moment. I will use that link, or get a replacement from Power Computing, as a last ditch effort.
Cheers
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I'm thinking Maplins or a simular type shop will have a converter as well. Its basicly just a plug to make it turn on from a switch.
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Maplin, i will try that. Cheers,
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Hello guys,
Right. I have now got the ATX - AT adaptor thingy (cheers kgrach!). The problem is, i have connected the adaptor to the PSU (i think) but i can't seem to connect the power switch of the original power tower to the loose wires of the adaptor. I have tried, but when i turn on the switch (of the power tower) nothing happens! Have i done this all wrong? Could it be anything fried (like the kettle cable?), do i need to get a porper power switch to fit the adaptor? I will be very gratefull of some replies.
Cheers,
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Hi CU
have you switched-ON the rear switch of the PSU? (must be always ON)
What happens, when you put togheter the 2 "PowerON-ground" wires directly?
Ciao
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Framiga wrote:
Hi CU
have you switched-ON the rear switch of the PSU? (must be always ON)
Yes!
What happens, when you put togheter the 2 "PowerON-ground" wires directly?
Ciao
The what now?! :-? I just connected the bare wires of the power tower switch and connected it to the loose sockets of the adaptor. I take it, it had to be connected to there, as there were no where else for them to go.
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Spyros wrote
"The only solution to your problem is playing a Hawkwind record, not forgetting to place the turntable close enough to the faulty unit, for the positively charged psychedelic energy waves to be able to reach it."
'nuff said, now it's two of us, that "puff the magic Dragon"! We should be ashamed....
Geia sou re Spyro...
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Hi CU_AMIGA,
. . .erm!! sorry but i haven't understood quite nothing :-)
The OLD PowerTower switch, had 4 wires . . .right?
In a AT PSU enviroment, it switch ON/OFF the 220 volts AT PSU.
Now you have an ATX PSU, right? with an ATX2AT adapter, right?
Are there 2 wires from the ATX-PSU (the PSU-ON ones), right?
So, only for testing pourpose . . . try to put togheter those 2 wires.
Ciao
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Framiga wrote:
Hi CU_AMIGA,
. . .erm!! sorry but i haven't understood quite nothing :-)
The OLD PowerTower switch, had 4 wires . . .right?
Yes, plus the earth cable.
In a AT PSU enviroment, it switch ON/OFF the 220 volts AT PSU.
Now you have an ATX PSU, right? with an ATX2AT adapter, right?
Yes! :-)
Are there 2 wires from the ATX-PSU (the PSU-ON ones), right?
So, only for testing pourpose . . . try to put togheter those 2 wires.
Ciao
You mean the two spare wires on the ATX - AT adaptor. The guy who sold me the adaptor also said the same thing so i take it that's what you mean. Can i use that method as a permenant setup? I will have a closer look at my power tower switch and see if it connects. Thanks for the help. Watch this space!
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Can i use that method as a permenant setup?
not . . .but IF the PSU starts in those way, then you must search the 2 PowerTower switch wires (only 2 of 4) that close and open the circuit.
Connect those 2 wires and you'll have a right switch ON/OFF.
Probably, you have chosen the wrong ones. (check with a multimeter which ones open/close)
Ciao
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Hello,
Got the adaptor working. It was a fuse in the plug that blown, so i replaced it, then it worked! :-) Unfortunately, the PPC seems to be dead, and also the 5 pin power supply adaptor thing for the a1200 has now broke so i need to get that repaired somehow. How much would it cost to repair or buy another 5 pin adaptor thingy and what can i do about the PPC, can it be repaired? How much would it cost?
Cheers,
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Okay. I now have my stock Amiga 1200 working fully again now. But when i boot with the PPC card in, i get the same problems as before. Is there anything else i can do or check? I have tolf the Amiga Repair Centre about it and they said it didn't sound too good.... it'll cost around £140 to repair! :-(
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(http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ashen1/ashen/menu/build/3wires.jpg)
Fit a piece of bare wire (or solder) into each of of the holes on the power lead. Ensure that all three are connected - if not, your wiring may not be properly earthed, which could be potentially dangerous.
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(http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ashen1/ashen/menu/build/3wires.jpg)
Oh! Nice one! And make sure to twist one, and only one, of the side wires together with the one in the middle. Then plug the cable in and go take a shower. Touching the kitchen sink at this time is also recommended.
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I don't wan't to sound rude or anything, but i don't think thats going to help! :-)