Amiga.org
Amiga computer related discussion => Amiga Hardware Issues and discussion => Topic started by: ceaser on June 05, 2009, 09:01:02 PM
-
IF I have a little converter box that's PAL to NTSC separate... I already bought it. Wanted this neat Amiga 500 + that has that 8375 newest version Agnus in it.
If that for sure isn't going to work, is the 23-pin to 9-pin cable the standard monitor cable for Amiga? I bought a converter that's called CGA to VGA/SVGA and it's DB-9 to DB-15 since the 9-pin doesn't go into any PC monitor. Of course I'll still need an NTSC booter for NTSC games and probably a monitor that displays PAL if I have to go that route. I think one of my old monitors might have PAL but really not sure. I'm betting no. So the best case scenario would be that the PAL to NTSC converter that takes RCA (yellow for video, red & white for audio) will just work with the A520. I don't see why it wouldn't but I'm a positive thinker. My goal here is to get this A500+ PAL working and I already have enough PAL games and if anyone has an NTSC booter for a PAL amiga (floppy copy for sale), and the NTSC to PAL booter as well if you got it? Let me know. The coolest solution would be to get a PAL Amiga monitor but that's another 2 weeks and more money :/ and I do not have my NTSC Amiga monitor anymore of course otherwise I wouldn't be asking this.
The gentleman I'm waiting on that to come from says no A520 won't work on a "PAL Amiga" and that would be very bad for me because I have the video converter as long as video is coming out. BTW: he said black & white with scrolling it'd show up like. Isn't that what an unconverted PAL looks like on NTSC TV/monitor?
I will let you know what the conclusion was with the A520 whether good or bad when the thing comes. From Budapest, Hungary to Minneapolis, MN US is a long long way :confused:
-
First of all you should sell/throw away everything you have got and buy an Indivision ECS scandoubler when they come out later this year and then you can use a regular PC monitor or TV with VGA input and have the best possible quality picture bar non.
I bought a converter that's called CGA to VGA/SVGA
I know them, Cypress CM397. They are rubbish. Send it back if you can. Get your money back.
Does the A520 RF Modulator (used to be referred to as Y-connector) work with PAL
Of course.
is the 23-pin to 9-pin cable the standard monitor cable for Amiga?
Yes.
So the best case scenario would be that the PAL to NTSC converter that takes RCA (yellow for video, red & white for audio) will just work with the A520.
Why would you need a "PAL to NTSC converter"?
-
First of all you should sell/throw away everything you have got and buy an Indivision ECS scandoubler when they come out later this year and then you can use a regular PC monitor or TV with VGA input and have the best possible quality picture bar non.
What is this ECS scandoubler you speak of, and will it work with an A2500? Thanks.
-
It is the new Indivision scandoubler from Jens Schoenfeld of Individual Computers.
Yes it will work with A2500.
It works with A500, A500+, A2000, B2000, A3000, CDTV and A600 (in conjunction with A603 RAM card).
I have a feeling it might also work with A1000.
With the work that has already been done on the Indivision, Indivision AGA and Indivision 4000/CD32 Individual computers knows a lot about getting the best picture on a VGA CRT & LCD screen. No external generic scandoubler can come even close.
While it was announced in March, it is still not available to buy until later this year.
-
Good info! Any links to more info or any idea of cost? (sorry to hijack the thread) Thanks.
-
One piece of advice in video: stay clear of anything "composite", "CVBS", "RCA" (single plug) - that signal is so bandwidth limited that the resulting video quality is horrible. It might be sufficient for a homemade video shot from the 80s, but it definitely does not do justice to Amiga video.
RGB (NOT RGBI aka CGA) is best, S-video (converted from RGB through e.g. a genlock) is usable, composite is crap. VGA also uses RGB (31 kHz+ though), so it's fine if you haven't messed up the signal on the way.
-
Good info! Any links to more info or any idea of cost? (sorry to hijack the thread) Thanks.
No idea of cost. Check out the news page on http://www.jschoenfeld.com/news/news_e.htm
-
Oh no I saw this thing. It was REALLY expensive at least on ebay. I'd imagine that would be around the same price most places. I think it was over $100 the listing I saw. Just no chance of getting that no way.
I got schill bid out of a Philips CM8833-II monitor at the last minute. It was in the last 30 seconds and I would've ended up paying $70 US probably including shipping. But they threw in an insane 105 GBP (192 USD) in the last 30 seconds. So I sort of didn't want it that bad and it looked ugly.
My friend advises I should try to get a Commodore 1960 monitor. Is this the great best Amiga monitor made for Amiga's ever or no? Opinions?
-
Oh no I saw this thing. It was REALLY expensive at least on ebay. I'd imagine that would be around the same price most places. I think it was over $100 the listing I saw. Just no chance of getting that no way.
You're getting confused with the Indivision AGA (A1200 or A4000). The Indivision ECS (A500) is not on sale yet. No price announced but it will undoubtedly be cheaper than AGA version. Cheaper smaller FPGA, less RAM, no expensive socket.
My friend advises I should try to get a Commodore 1960 monitor. Is this the great best Amiga monitor made for Amiga's ever or no?
No.
-
:confused:
What about the Microvitec M1538? Please just rattle off what monitors you like. Not just the last poster, BTW thanks I am glad to hear at least one opinion that there isn't some immaculate monitor you must buy for Amiga games. OMG they're so sharp etc and regular monitors can't handle the graffics even though it's from early 90's and is 16-bit :p
1084S monitors are way easier to find. Should I just get one of those instead. I do believe that's the one I had back in the day (early 90's).
-
I bought a Mitsubishi EUM-1491 for my A3000 and it was just great; I wanted something to be able to display everything the A3k could output. One of those just went for 30€ on ebay.de today. Microvitecs are reported to work well but I haven't tried one of those.
If you're just planning to use standard/non-ECS modes - esp. for gaming and such - you'll be fine with a standard 1081, 1084 or derivative (wouldn't pay more than $20 for one though). With a bit of adjustment they're fine for either PAL or NTSC.
If you're up to a more productive purpose you should seriously consider alex' advice to a flickerfixer and a (larger) VGA monitor.
-
Gaming is what any Amiga 500 I own is dedicated to. There's still some cool Amiga utilities that were once ahead of their time. I still think I like Deluxe Paint IV better than any art utility I've ever played with. Hah yes $20 would be cool. Maybe even Craigslist. Problem here is the shipping with these things adds so much to the cost making it unreasonable to order used ones. I'm going to get whatever Amiga monitor I can get a good deal on basically. BBOAH does list that Phillips 8833-II as being an Amiga monitor but that seller wasn't willing to let one go for 31 GBP plus 40 GBP shipping so guess I won't be getting from him (guy who schill bid at last second very obviously. He even relisted the same monitor already. I yelled at the guy and he said "i've got another one going up tomorrow you can bid on. The guy who bid 105 GBP paid. Ya right!)
-
UK? Why, there plenty of monitors on ebay...
-
Remember that if you order a monitor from the EU you will probably need to buy a voltage transformer.
EU = 220v 50Hz AC
US = 110v 60Hz AC
I do not think either Philips or Commodore monitors are dual voltage (but I could be wrong)
-
Remember that if you order a monitor from the EU you will probably need to buy a voltage transformer.
EU = 220v 50Hz AC
US = 110v 60Hz AC
I do not think either Philips or Commodore monitors are dual voltage (but I could be wrong)
Alexh is right. C= branded monitors are always "mono-voltage". But they will work with a simple voltage transformer.
Don't need to worry with the frequency difference on the power supply: the internal voltage circuit of monitors can cope nicely with either 50 or 60Hz (switched power supplies).
The same could be not true for the video input: image don't fill the screen with Amiga in NTSC in a PAL monitor. Or image "over the edges" of the screen with a PAL Amiga using a NTSC monitor.
Open the monitor and tweak the trim-pots will fix it, of course.
-
Voltage conversion wasn't a problem. Waiting for a Commodore 1960 in the mail. Also does my A4000 (new box I picked up (old but new)) not work with the A520 because it's probably got too late a version of kickstart installed? It's trying to output 31kHz horizontal maybe?
Also I'm going to put in another thread this machine, the A4000/040 has a key on the front. Like a locking key. And I was able to open the machine up to upgrade it without owning the key but I'm quite worried I don't have a monitor for this thing yet and I don't have this key thing as the seller didn't provide it with the computer. It turns on and registers there's a HDD there but I'm kinda worried a bit till I can see a display, because seems like none of my floppies really get properly accessed. Not even sure if this thing works yet.
-
does my A4000 (new box I picked up (old but new)) not work with the A520 because it's probably got too late a version of kickstart installed?
It should work fine.
It's trying to output 31kHz horizontal maybe?
If the screen mode in workbench is a 31KHz mode it could be. Hold down both mouse buttons after a reset to enter the early startup menu. That will be in 15KHz.
the A4000/040 has a key on the front. Like a locking key. And I was able to open the machine up to upgrade it without owning the key
Big deal.
but I'm quite worried I don't have a monitor for this thing yet and I don't have this key thing as the seller didn't provide it with the computer.
You should be able to see just by looking at it if it is in the locked position. Just disconnect it inside. If you really must have it connected, the key is a standard key you can get in loads of places. Most modern HDD caddies use a key that will fit.
I'm kinda worried a bit till I can see a display, because seems like none of my floppies really get properly accessed. Not even sure if this thing works yet.
By the sounds of things, it doesn't work.