Amiga.org
Amiga computer related discussion => General chat about Amiga topics => Topic started by: pan1k on June 02, 2009, 05:11:40 AM
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How many of you guys have made/used Retr0brite? I got a few items that could use cleaning/brightening. Does anyone have any before/after examples?
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How many of you guys have made/used Retr0brite? I got a few items that could use cleaning/brightening. Does anyone have any before/after examples?
I would use it if i could get it ready made . Unfortunatly i am too lazy :P
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Yes, I did and the results are on the retr0brite pages - mine is the Commodore 128 :D
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I used Retrobrite on my A600. Worked perfectly!
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I used retrobrite on two A4000 front panels with very good result.
I haven't updated my thread at AmiBay yet, but some can be read here (http://www.amibay.com/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=2169)
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Hi,
I have 'whitened' quite a few items in the last couple of months using this method and must say that the results are astounding. That being said, be VERY cautious with 'non-white' items such as function keys, etc. as it is very easy to 'overcook' them and end up with a ghosted discoloration on the part which can't be reversed. I have noticed this even on some badly yellowed pieces that never cleaned up completely and if I pushed it too much ended up with bad results.
I have found that natural sunshine works better that a UV lamp also - maybe it also ends up slightly heating the mixture also which may contribute to better results.
All the above - my opionion only...... your mileage may vary.
Good Luck,
Tim
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OK! I'm going to whiten the front of my A4000 case.. I have a reallly bad Atari too.. previous owner smoked all over it, so i'm going to give it a nice bath.. as far as the keys are concerned.. what's the best way to brighten them? just lay them out in the sun with the paste applied? If that works well.. then I will attempt to whiten my Amiga keyboard :)
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This (http://amibay.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=1645) is the official support thread for retr0bright.
Ask there, Merlin is the father of retr0Bright. It's "his" forum.
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Personally, I find that using the liquid works better than the paste. I ending using more of the liquid than I would of the paste but just submerge my part in it in a plastic tub and then let it sit out in the sun, checking it once in a while. Results have been fantastic!
I have found that when using the paste, i get brush marks when applying it and that sometime I can see the 'streaks' from the brush marks in the finished part. It doesn't seem to matter how often I re-apply the paste to keep it wet and avoid brush marks that sometimes I get this result.
For keys, I just put them in a glass jar with the liquid mixture and set them in the sun on my back-porch..... rinse with water, check results and repeat if I feel they need to soak more.
My opinion only.... just trying to help.
Tim
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Hey Sandman.. I want to try the liquid.. i'm going to get a tray of some kind.. what is the ratios for the ingredients?
Do I just add a few liters of Hydrogen Peroxide and a tablespoon of Oxyclean for such a large batch?
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Hey Sandman.. I want to try the liquid.. i'm going to get a tray of some kind.. what is the ratios for the ingredients?
Do I just add a few liters of Hydrogen Peroxide and a tablespoon of Oxyclean for such a large batch?
Formulation and applications details are on the website. I am thinking to have a go myself.
The only problem is, if I start buying large quantities of 12% H2O2, you can bet a tactical squad will be busting down my door in no time :lol:
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**FULL DISCLAIMER!** :)
These are my OPINIONS only, I take no responsibility for your actions, risks or results . What worked for me may not work for you - be safe and do your own research. Definitely wear eye protection and be careful handling things that you don't have experience with!
I personally have purchased 1/2 gal. bottles of 20 or 30 volume at the local Sally Beauty supply store, mixed in 1/4 teaspoon or so (never really measured) of oxyclean and put it in a plastic tub sitting out in the sunshine. Checked parts every so often as to not 'overcook' them - results have been astounding.
Good Luck,
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COOL! Thanks guys.. I will be trying this soon.. I'll provide some before and after pics of course...
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I want to try this soon. Problem I cannot find any Peroxide here in the states, where can I find some 10% or such? Also where to find Xantham gum!??! I got some Oxi Clean Versatile stain remover powder, hope that will work....
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Biggest problem with >10% peroxide is a shipping. Here it have status of a danger chemical and post office cannot deliver it due to their intern regulations :( So even webshops dont have it for sale. I need to take a trip to the city for every bottle.
EDIT: and its really dangerous, if you leave bottles in a car on sunny day it can explode! Happened to my friend, fortunately it leaked only a little so no damage, but it was a big "POW!" :D
Maybe this should be written into the wiki i guess
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Aussie users can get the 12% hydrogen peroxide in a 1 litre bottle from Priceline (just ask for hydrogen peroxide to bleach hair 120mL/L) for $9, and the "oxy" being referred to is Sards stain remover powder with oxy ( Big W $9 for too much of the stuff)
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Anyone know if it works on rubber? I wanna put the sparkle back into my power cables. :rolleyes:
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Formulation and applications details are on the website. I am thinking to have a go myself.
The only problem is, if I start buying large quantities of 12% H2O2, you can bet a tactical squad will be busting down my door in no time :lol:
As Mr Retr0brite (Merlin) is based in Manchester UK himself you might want to ask him if he could provide you with a case whitening service. Might be an idea to contact him to see if he is willing to do so for a reasonable fee.
Who knows, it could turn into a lucrative niche business for the guy. :D
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TJ: Why dont you look for a beauty supply place? I think they have a Sally's in your area...
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Hey TJ,
I found the 20 & 30 volume at a local Sally Beauty Supply. I personally have found the lower percent stuff works just as well it just takes a little longer. As for the Oxyclean Versatile - you can find that at Albertson's or Bartell's Drugs here in the Northwest as well as other places.
For rubber cables, etc and other parts I find that just the Oxyclean works wonders. It really cleans things up just watch some types of printed lables (takes the ink off sometimes).
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As Mr Retr0brite (Merlin) is based in Manchester UK himself you might want to ask him if he could provide you with a case whitening service. Might be an idea to contact him to see if he is willing to do so for a reasonable fee.
Who knows, it could turn into a lucrative niche business for the guy. :D
Why did someone find the above post offensive enough to send me a Neg rep for it? All I done was suggest an idea to a friend. What's wrong with that.:confused:
Some People. :crazy:
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Great point Chain!
I had some of the Peroxide/Oxyclean mixture left that I was going to reuse and poured it back in the the original plastic bottles. BAD IDEA!!! Even with the cap left loose they blimped up and I was lucky that they didn't explode! I was glad that I always try to work outside for that very reason.
Now I store in a non-airtight container. ;)
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Why did someone find the above post offensive enough to send me a Neg rep for it? All I done was suggest an idea to a friend. What's wrong with that.:confused:
Some People. :crazy:
Because there is a small number of total nonce's floating around these parts, the sooner Wayne get's his nonce broom out the better :lol:
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Why did someone find the above post offensive enough to send me a Neg rep for it? All I done was suggest an idea to a friend. What's wrong with that.:confused:
Some People. :crazy:
Surely you now can see who it was, right? Rep remarks are no longer anonymous...
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Surely you now can see who it was, right? Rep remarks are no longer anonymous...
Cool, so now we can name and shame said nonces :lol:
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well i have just made up some retr0brite and am trying it on the iconic A500 mouse as a test to make sure i have done everything correctly :) if that works im going to do it on my A500 case.
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Surely you now can see who it was, right? Rep remarks are no longer anonymous...
Sure, but I've given him a chance to explain before I get out the old Nonceometer. :lol:
Back on topic, have you considered my suggestion earlier in this thread?
A computer whitening service might prove to be more popular than teeth whitening is. :roflmao:
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well i have just made up some retr0brite and am trying it on the iconic A500 mouse as a test to make sure i have done everything correctly :) if that works im going to do it on my A500 case.
Great. Be sure to post some pics here.
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Great. Be sure to post some pics here.
will do! my Garage looks strange at the moment from the blue UV lamp :)
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Sure, but I've given him a chance to explain before I get out the old Nonceometer. :lol:
Bugger that, name the nonce so we can all point and laugh :rofl:
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I mixed some up and used it on a PC-Engine Duo-R
it worked awesome. I carefully brushed it on and didn't have to disassemble the unit to use it, and then carefully wiped it all off too.
Only mix what you plan to use. A buddy mixed a whole mess of it, ignored warnings and stored it in a tub in his room. He came back from work with an exploded mess in there...
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Here are some pics from my work over the weekend :) you can really see the difference when i put the top of the case on with the un-treated bottom.
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1st time poster so please be gentle :laughing: This thread is amazing and I am more amazed that more people are not carrying out this process. I have a few questions even though I did read through the thread.
Am I right in that the item has to stay submerged when using the liquid formular?
And finally how do some people get results in a few hours instead of a few days? Many thanks to anyone that answers.
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1st time poster so please be gentle :laughing:
Welcome to the org :)
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1st time poster so please be gentle :laughing: This thread is amazing and I am more amazed that more people are not carrying out this process. I have a few questions even though I did read through the thread.
Am I right in that the item has to stay submerged when using the liquid formular?
And finally how do some people get results in a few hours instead of a few days? Many thanks to anyone that answers.
You use guargum stuff to make it a gel-like substance. I just used a spongey paint brush, and layered it on, and then stuck it under a light. Then you just dampen a rag and wipe it off. Didn't even have to disassemble my console.
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@ TJLazer
You can get it in the States at pet supplies stores, they call it "Urine Rescue" and it's the 35% grade of H2O2, it's in gallon containers and cheap too. Xanthan gum can be got from health food shops or on Ebay. A touch of 'Billy Mayes' finest hour' and you are good to go.
WotTheFook ( also known as Merlin ;))
@ Dagger
All of the information you need is in the Wiki, located here:-
http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com
The "Oxy" acts as a catalyst and it's this, along with concentrated UV light, that allows us to reverse the discolouration so quickly. It's a customised example of applied chemistry, as bromine vibrates under UV light and we exploit this to remove the attached oxygen molecule and replace it with a hydrogen from the catalysed H2O2.
Don't add a lot of "Oxy", as it will foam like a burst sofa; less definitely isn't more in this case.
@ all
For the Americans, our expert on applying Retr0bright out there is Lorne from Vintage Computer Forums who is in Arizona and he made us aware of Urine Rescue. There are three 200-page long threads on that site on Retr0bright (!) and they helped us tremendously in optimising the process.
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Hmm. Not easy to get hold off the Peroxide. Tried a few hairdressers etc but the best I have got so far is one small bottle of 9% from a chemist. I thought it would of been easier to get hold off in the UK.
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9% will work, it will just take a bit longer, that's all. You can get stronger than 9% at Sally Beauty outlets, they call it Developer.
Your nearest Sally agent is Capital Hair & Beauty. Unit 1, Cromwell Centre, Selinas Lane, Dagenham.
;)
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Hmm. Not easy to get hold off the Peroxide. Tried a few hairdressers etc but the best I have got so far is one small bottle of 9% from a chemist. I thought it would of been easier to get hold off in the UK.
weird . that volumizer for hair bleach is friggin everywhere over here...
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That's because he didn't know it was called 'Developer' in the UK. He will be able to find it now... ;)
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:) Many thanks for the tip WotTheFook. I will take a trip down there Friday afternoon. I made up a batch using the 9% and it does seem to be starting to work. I have 2 C64 keys that have been in soak for a day now and there does seem to be some slight change. Also I have 1 C16(grey) key which has been in soak for 2 days and that is almost yellow free now.
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Thanks all. I ended up getting the Peroxide at Sallys and Xanthum gum on Amazon. The strongest they had in the brown bottle. Clairoxide 40. Doing some yellowed keys and keyboards now, seems to be working good! I need to do it for another day. 1 day already but it's not enough...
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Hey TJ,
Just get the 40 volume creme peroxide... I found that mixed with the oxy works great and there is no need for a thickener.
However, I still prefer the clear liquid peroxide myself although you need to use more to immerse the part. Keys in a filled mayonaise jar placed under the uv light works great!
Tim
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This was NOT done using the RetroBrite formula (the whole gel idea seems like too much trouble to me,) but H2O2 is good stuff.
Before:
(http://jungle.net/tone/before.jpg)
After:
(http://jungle.net/tone/after.jpg)
What a difference 8 hours makes.
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TONE:
Did you use the oxy in there at least? If you didn't... the yellowing might come back!
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No oxy, but then I've never used oxy in anything I bleached.. Maybe I just got lucky, none of it has yellowed again so far.
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This was NOT done using the RetroBrite formula (the whole gel idea seems like too much trouble to me,) but H2O2 is good stuff.
Before:
(http://jungle.net/tone/before.jpg)
After:
(http://jungle.net/tone/after.jpg)
What a difference 8 hours makes.
Looks good. Though it looks as it might need a tad more?
Did you dismantle the 1200 and do the case/keys seperate? Or on the unit as one piece?
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All once piece. It could possibly get a bit lighter, but I'm pretty happy with it for the moment.
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Impressive !!! I might try that myself on my Amiga's .... No hasseling with all the chemicals ..
So you just used the peroxide and nothing else ?
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Correct, a mixture (50/50 or so) of water and 40 weight liquid peroxide from the beauty supply shop, and 8-10 hours or so out on a sunny day.
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Correct, a mixture (50/50 or so) of water and 40 weight liquid peroxide from the beauty supply shop, and 8-10 hours or so out on a sunny day.
Where you at?
I've been at it since last week and still not done! But I am in Seattle so that is why I'm so slow... LOL
Did some Atari ST keys and they turned out great! Doing a set of A2000 keys, a 4000 drive face plate and a A1000 keyboard and space bar now, almost done. I had a very yellow C=128 PS that is stubborn! I see some improvement buy still a little yellow. I'll keep at it.
I have to constantly run more solution over the parts as they dry up. Are you guys doing this?
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Correct, a mixture (50/50 or so) of water and 40 weight liquid peroxide from the beauty supply shop, and 8-10 hours or so out on a sunny day.
Cool ... Ill try it out this weekend . I live in Malta where the average summer temperatures are over 32 degrees and its very sunny from like 7.30Am till 7.00Pm ... So 8 hours should be no problem :)
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If you use 40 volume peroxide in 30 degree heat, you will most likely end up with a white 'bloom' on the surface as that strength can attack the polymer as well as treat the flame retardant. In that heat, keep the strength of the peroxide down to 10% and you should be OK.
Check the Problems and Pitfalls section of the Retr0bright Wiki and you will see what I mean.
WotTheFook aka Merlin
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Where you at?
Northern VA.
I have to constantly run more solution over the parts as they dry up. Are you guys doing this?
That's what I mean about the gel thing being too much trouble. Streaks, drying out, multiple applications... Submersion in liquid is the easier way, dunk the thing, leave it in the hot sun and forget about it for a few hours, and when you come back it'll most likely be looking good. Here's another item I did recently.
Before:
(http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/6116/128dbefore.jpg)
After:
(http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/939/128dafter.jpg)
Again, it was done in 8 hours or so on a sunny day in something like 50/50 H2O2 (40vol) and water.
If you really want to have some fun, grab a magnifying glass and focus the sun on a small area. You can watch the plastic lighten.
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Tone , That is amazing ... That 128D looks really nice too :)
I have got to try this out .. Prob the face plate of my A4000 will go first
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Here's my Atari keyboard (hey gotta use a test subject for I try it on my Amiga! MWAHAhA)
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So you guys think the plain h202 and water works as well or close enough without the need to make retrobrite itself?
I've wanted to try this for some time but I for one cou;dn't find the recommended mixtures (im sure its easy to find somewhere just not spent alot of time looking either) and two no UV light, although my basement has 3 rows of double bulb flourescent lights would these work?. I have an apple IIE Platinum I would LOVE to restore back to its original color.
Any info or tips would be appreciated... I could dismantle the IIE and submerge it, but would be easier if I didn't have to do that.
Thanks in advance
-Pete
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If you don't want to submerge it, you'll need to try the gel mixture. I also have some Apple IIs I'm thinking about lightening, but I'm trying my best to avoid gel.
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I would probably use distilled water.. not just tap or purified drinking water as it still has minerals in it.
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Hey just wanted to post my progress... I have a IIE Platinum that had turned UGLY Brown... well on a longshot since I had nothing but 3% h202 and I looked at Clorox 2 for colors which has h202 in it and other whiteners... Well to my surprise I used some of my 3% h202 to dilute the clorox2. Used 3/4 clorox 2 25% h202 3% and used a paintbrush to brush it on like a gel. I put it in the sun and would check on it every hour to reapply the gel all over. Started the process at 1:30pm just brought it in at 4:30 and it WORKED Awesome! I still need to go another round as one side I didn't have in the sun for long enough and I need a little more time to get it totally whitened to match the parts that are still original color, but its 90% better than it was!!!
I will post pics when its done and though I boneheaded and didnt take them from the very beginning, I have another IIE that is the same nasty yellow this one was... I'm so excited!! So there you have it, if you don't wanna mix a bunch of chemicals try out clorox 2 and some regular old h202 3% from the pharmacy. The h202 3% contains purified water so i used that to dilute the clorox2 instead of tap water and used it mostly for the water. Reading the clorox 2 label is has other whiteners in it I'm guessing oxidizers similar to oxyclean?
Anyways just wanted to post my success at trying this :)
I'd like to know if anyone else has tried using clorox 2 or if you do please let me know. I will post a compelte picture before and during and after when I do my other apple IIe
SOOOO Glad I found this forum :)
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I didn't make any Retrobrite. Just bought 2 liters of 30% peroxide and added 4 liters of water. Check out the results:
http://www.amigascene.nl/modules/myalbum/viewcat.php?cid=10
My Elbox front plate came out the original color.
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Does anyone know if there is a way to buy these ready mixed?
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Yes you can get it ready to go, it's called Clairon Professional 40 Creme Developer. It's a milky white creme that works great, been doing it to a bunch of C= and Atari stuff and works great!
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40 Creme Developer isn't as aggressive, I found some version to contain 12% of H2O2.
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Yes you can get it ready to go, it's called Clairon Professional 40 Creme Developer. It's a milky white creme that works great, been doing it to a bunch of C= and Atari stuff and works great!
the cream is no good if you plan for direct sunlight exposure.
the clear kind is good though :) submerge it in a fish tank and stick it in the driveway. :D
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the cream is no good if you plan for direct sunlight exposure.
the clear kind is good though :) submerge it in a fish tank and stick it in the driveway. :D
the 40 developer creme ie 12 % peroxide works GREAT if you add a pinch of washing powder that has oxy in it (dissolve it in a bit of water). this way you don't need to buy a fish tank, just a small artists paint brush to brush it on with, and for the keys just add a bit more water (distilled is better) to cover them in a jar, leave the top open.
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the 40 developer creme ie 12 % peroxide works GREAT if you add a pinch of washing powder that has oxy in it (dissolve it in a bit of water). this way you don't need to buy a fish tank, just a small artists paint brush to brush it on with, and for the keys just add a bit more water (distilled is better) to cover them in a jar, leave the top open.
Dryout is a pain and can cause uneven lightening. Everyone should have a big vat of clear peroxide!
..I've gone so far as to pour mine back into the bottles and reuse it months later.
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submerge it in a fish tank and stick it in the driveway. :D
ROTFLMAO! I am literally snorting Hoppalicious Ale Asylum beer right now - the image was too funny!
This thread is great. I'm gonna have to try me some of this peroxide gunk someday. Already did the bleach/oxy/UV thing and it didn't work worth a damn.
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Over here it's impossible to get highly concentrated peroxide anywhere, the highest concentration is the 12% creme developer, so if it works we'll just have to make sure we check it often and keep it moist. I've wanted to try this for years, but wasn't sure if this creme developer was strong enough to work. I'm definitely going to buy some, and some Oxy powder next time I can afford it! :)
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Over here it's impossible to get highly concentrated peroxide anywhere, the highest concentration is the 12% creme developer
That is because our Politicians are Scared some of the population might take to them with Peroxide bombs.
It is along the lines of why the Federal Aviation Authority here in Australia determined we can only have useless plastic knives on planes, instead of metal ones because we might go Postal and kill the flight crew, but still giving METAL forks which can equally cause serious injury when poked in the right places.
Anyway, I digress.
Back to Miggy whiteness :)
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the cream is no good if you plan for direct sunlight exposure.
the clear kind is good though :) submerge it in a fish tank and stick it in the driveway. :D
I've had no problems at all! The reason? The milky creme developer is thick enough that it does not block the sun. And it is better than the clear kind that is just too watery and tends to dry up too quick. Seems the creme is better as it stays on the parts longer. I imagine if you constantly brushed the regular peroxide on every 5 min that it would work great. But I rather not do that!
This is the most dramatic item I have done so far. I did not even dismantle the unit! I did the keyboard by gently brushing the creme developer on every 30 min or so. It was thick enough that it did not drip in the keyboard. I think I left it in the sun around 6 hours. I then cleaned all the parts with some SimpleGreen and a damp cloth. On others I did just remove the keyboard and mylar and did it that way, and it was better to clean it up (was really dirty anyhow)
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Here's some before and after pics. I didn't take a before photo of the cases, at the time I was sceptical it would work, but trust me the cases were as yellow as the keys.
Only the case of the A4000 keyboard has been treated. The keys are from an A500, so i'm nor sure how they're supposed to be, bu the keyboard case was yellow.