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Amiga computer related discussion => Amiga Hardware Issues and discussion => Topic started by: AmigaAbattoir on August 22, 2003, 03:11:59 AM
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I have been having problems with my A4000T lately. Seem it won't start up unless I reseat the Cyberstorm. It will work fine for a while and then it will go to black and not reset. If I shut it off and wiggle the Cyberstrom a little, it usually starts up. Now, it barely stays on for more than 10 minutes. Can anyone tell me what I can try to do to fix this or who can fix it? :-) Thanks
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Hmm... Sounds like the card is loose(no, really!)
This happens to me occasionaly, and every so often I push it back in a bit more.
It could also be a dust problem, try cleaning the contacts on the communications receptical.
I'm not sure what you can do about the card being loose, a fix can be left up to your imagination! ;-)
--Edit
Oh and I forgot to mention, those connectors are absolute crap too! :-P
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How about duct tape. :-)
I tried cleaning it, but still get the same problems.
I thought I read something about the accelerator slots wearing down or the pins wearing down. I was hoping that I don't have to replace the motherboard (again) or even worse having a PPC card on it's way to the grave.
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I wouldn't replace the card or the motherboard for what is essentialy a minor problem.
At most you would probably need to replace the connector, and I think the type of connectors on them are "KEL 200 pin"
Check also that it isn't an over heating problem ;-)
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Go down to your local hardware store (take to Cyberstorm with you) and go to the loose nuts, bolts and spacers bin. Find set [color=FF0000]nylon[/color] bolts and spacers. Get varing thicknesses of spacers so you can build a standoff pin to with-in 1mm or 2mm from the board when it is seated. Then you can "bolt" the card into place. I'll post a couple pictures up after I get home from work. Only the holes near the card connector need to be done like this and the holes at the back of the card can use the standard standoff pins.
For me this was more preventative than to fix and actual problem. I just didn't like the supplied standoff pegs. They seemed to be to long and trying to push the board out of the slot.
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Check also that it isn't an over heating problem
I'll second that. If you're using a CyberstormPPC, check that the fan still works.
Antec (and a few others, probably) sell these great little cooler units that use a free backplate card slot. They're great for Amigas since standard coolers won't fit without some casework. If you have a free and/or extra slot available, I would recommend one. My 1200T has been about 10x as stable since installing one.
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Rigger is correct in suggesting that you bolt the board in. My 4000Tower had the very same problem , even after sending it back for repairs.. But my 3000Tower never had that problem... the 3000Tower was a Commodore and made in Germany .. the steel in the 3000Towers are probably the same they used in their tanks ... very tough .. just try to drill the box for an extra fan ...who knows where the 4000Towers and/or slots were made?? ...Ritty
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Thanks! I think that might do it.
Just wish me luck at the hardware store! I have been having bad luck with them this past week.
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Check also that it isn't an over heating problem
I thought that was the problem when this started happening (about a month ago). I threw in a new 80mm case fan, replaced the PPC one with a new 486 fan from Radio Shack, put a 60mm fan over the 060 and SCSI chip, and threw in a harddrive cooling fan just for good luck.
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I threw in a new 80mm case fan, replaced the PPC one with a new 486 fan from Radio Shack, put a 60mm fan over the 060 and SCSI chip, and threw in a harddrive cooling fan just for good luck.
Oh.
You could probably start storing drinks in there! :-D
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I had exactly the same -- accumulating problem with my overclocked (to 60Mhz) CS MkII also in an A4000T. Finally it just gave up.
I sent it off to Jean Jacques in France at www.amiga.fr and got it back working perfectly 2 1/2 weeks later.
He blames overclocking which I accept - the CPU is robust but other parts on the card may not be. Could even be normal 'end of life'.
Good Luck.
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...Which is why I don't over clock! I would rather have stability over performance anyday! :crazy:
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OK, posted the pictures of my setup to the Image-o-Matic here but I guess one of the webmasters needs to approve them before they are available.
Knock, knock.... Hellooooooo. Mr. Moderator? Are you in there? hehe.....
Image-o-Matic A4000 section. (http://amiga.org/gallery/viewcat.php?op=&cid=12)
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I had exactly the same -- accumulating problem with my overclocked (to 60Mhz) CS MkII also in an A4000T.
I was tempted to try overclock my Cyberstorm when I got my AmigaOne. Since I have "bad luck" and the fact that I already had to have the 060 replaced on it last year I decided against it. Which I kind of did not mind replacing at first, since I got the 060 as a free sample from Motorola. Of course, Motorola no longer gave samples out and I paid about US$225 for it. A week later some site was offering them for US$75. :-/
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OK, posted the pictures of my setup to the Image-o-Matic here but I guess one of the webmasters needs to approve them before they are available.
Awesome!!! Now, it time to the hardware store! I also have plenty of other stuff to pick up there.
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have you checked to make sure there are no solder dry joints ,one of my friends abit board has a dry joint which might be why it keeps losing time and settings. :-)
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You asked this question at the perfect time. My A4000 motherboard just happened to be out so I could do some modifications to the case and I could get those pictures. :-)
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I realise it's a bit late to add to this thread now, but I agree fully with Rigger. I had to do the same thing to my 4000 + CS2 when I put it in a tower. I think the nylon spacers I used were about 5/8" long - a little over 16 mm. I eventually bought 19 mm spacers and cut them down to fit.
tony
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You have dry joints under the 68060 socket. I have encountered (and repaired) numerous CSPPCs with this problem, including my own.
It is repairable with an ordinary soldering iron, however, extreme care must be taken as it can be very easy to ruin the socket.
Basically, it involves removing the 060, and using a very clean soldering iron, without any excess solder on the tip, heating each individual socket from the top until the soldered joint underneath melts and repairs the joint. It's really a job for an experienced technician, as the right amount of heat over the right amount of time is needed to effect a repair, without melting the plastic socket frame, or damaging the pins by filling with solder etc.
I have successfully repaired several boards with this method.
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Thanks Rigger!! It worked! So far the machine has been working with it's case on and is in it's original upright posistion for about an hour. The longest it has been working in that posistion for about a month. Just hope it stays that way!
I have been having bad luck in finding piece for things this past week. I've been remodeling my kitchen, and 2 stores I went to were out of tile spacers and no one carries the hinges for my cabinets. So it only seemed natural that every hobby shop or hardware store I went to did not have nylon screws or spacers. :crazy:
I ended up finding one place that had the right size nylon tubes. So, I just ended up cutting them and using insulators with metal screws to fasten it. I only put in two screws, one by the resistors and one under the first SIMM bank. I also had to make the spacers uneven in order to get it working, but so far so good!!
Thanks again!! :-)
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It is repairable with an ordinary soldering iron, however, extreme care must be taken as it can be very easy to ruin the socket.
Basically, it involves removing the 060, and using a very clean soldering iron, without any excess solder on the tip, heating each individual socket from the top until the soldered joint underneath melts and repairs the joint.
I am definately not that good with a soldering iron. I hacked a PSX controller to use parts from an arcade controller. In the process, I ended up over heating a few (about 3 or 4) trace and had to recreate them. But I did manage to get the thing working.
Luckily, the spacer trick that Rigger and Matt_H suggested has been holding up!
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Fantastic. Apparently the height being different is common. I had to make the spacer at the sim end shorter also.
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Well, after about 4 hours of use, it's dead again. :-( If the machine does start up,it will randomly freeze after a few minutes. When it doesn't start up, the ethernet card flashes like normal and I get the grey screen. But the hard drives do not spin up and my Concierto does not make the startup sound.
My bedroom has a dead A4000T and the living room has a dead A1200. Maybe it's time to change my nick name.
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Hmm, check that the ROM chips are fully seated. A light gray screen should mean that the hardware checked ok and the next this the system will check is the ROM. I know if the ROM fails the test then you get a red screen but it may not even move to ROM if it cannot find it due to poor seating.
Just a guess at this point but sounds like it can't hurt.
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Just tried pushing them down and they should be in there.
At this point, I'm about ready to strip both my "Classic" Amigas (A4000T and A1200) and sell their parts on eBay! :madashell:
I just noticed that the solder on the back of the accelerator connector look a slightly yellow on one side. Going to try and see if any place can take a look at my Cyberstorm and my Blizzard 1260.