Amiga.org
Amiga computer related discussion => Amiga Hardware Issues and discussion => Topic started by: lord_smeag on June 13, 2007, 10:54:02 AM
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Looks like the battery has leaked in my A2000HD. :madashell:
I have removed the culprit battery and all the expansion cards. The ics look clean and the cards also look unaffected.
Have seen worse boards but not sure if i can recover this opne. Does anybody have any advice on whether or not i can recover this board. Have a look at these images and let me know asap please. I miss my Workhorse 2k tank.
(http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i770895_A2kbatleak001.jpg)
(http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i770897_A2kbatleak003.jpg)
(http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i770896_A2kbatleak002.jpg)
(http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i770898_A2kbatleak004.jpg)
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Is the board still working? Looks like the traces are not damaged. Just clean the board with some alcohol and put in a new battery.
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Seemed fine untill about 3 days ago when it just would not boot. Power light on and hd flickered then stoped. cant boot to my wb 1.3 disketes either. so i opened it up and noticed the green residue.
So would isopropol do? I have useed that to clean my c64's 1541 head on the drive with no apparent damage. Also where the hell do you find batteries for a machine i bought in '89???
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Yes, isopropol will do the job. You can find new batteries
right here: Amigakit (http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=battery&osCsid=bfb35b2b54d720ebc6f557ade5b9a063)
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Oh wicked! thanks for the fast reply mate! :-D
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Where are the pictures?
And does it still work?
Edit: they started loading again after i replied
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try to reseat and clean the 68K/socket. It seems affected by some oxidation migrated from the battery (not clear from the pics)
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maybe this will help you:
(it caused me a lot of headaches)
image (http://tesla.rcub.bg.ac.yu/~dragic/Amiga/leaking_battery_fault.jpg)
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I have re-seated the 68000 and there was indeed some oxidisation that had made its way there, although very little. i have cleaned it with the iso.
Just have to wait for the battery to turn up so i can test it out. fingers crossed ...
Also not quite sure what you mean by 'these points should be connected' ??? My board has never had that black component between the cpu socket and the red thingy.
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Orange was referring to the broken trace between that pin on the CPU socket, the black resistor and the solder point near the tan resistor. If that trace is in tact on your machine then there's nothing you need to do here.
One thing - would you mind editing your original post to put the images in a vertical line rather than a horizontal line? This thread is very hard to read at the moment due to the width of the original post.
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moto
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oh ok gotcha moto, that trace seems fine on my board. Sorry about the width thingy, my first post here so didn't think about the width issue.
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lord_smeag wrote:
oh ok gotcha moto, that trace seems fine on my board.
That's good news :-)
lord_smeag wrote:
Sorry about the width thingy, my first post here so didn't think about the width issue.
No problem. Just scroll up to your original post and click the edit button, then put an new line at the end of each picture and they will go in a vertical line.
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moto
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lord_smeag, then you have different board version than mine, sorry..
nevertheless those three points should probably be connected
Test all traces around battery and esp. the ones coming from CPU.
Clean the CPU socket thoroughly (some people here recommend replacing the whole socket; I did it as you can see, but its a lot of hard work de-soldering 40 pins :-x )
You don't have to wait for new battery as Amiga should work fine without it.
I'd also recommend doing lithium batt. hack from Aminet, even though NiMh are supposed not to leak..
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After removing the mc68k and cleaning what i could. There is is still no joy. :evil:
Maybe the only hope is to replace the whole socket or maybe its easier to find another a2000 board. the A2091, flicker fixer, ram exp etc i'll keep and try to locate another 2k board to put them in.
It's probably better that way. wonder if the mc68k itself is munted?
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Try to rub the mobo with an used toothbrush and ISO, plus reseating the around components.
I've see your board don't have a 68k socket(?!? WTF!). If this is true, you MUST dessolder teh CPU, place a socket and plug a NEW (maybe the old) CPU on it.
"Want to make money with your computer? Simply press key and tab 4 three times!"
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Use toothbrush and brush off the corrosion area. Look at the traces and make sure that they are not corroded through. Check any chips that maybe had some of the corrosion on the legs and make sure to brush it off too (sometimes leg on an chip can get connected by corrosion and cause the chip to short. Forget the battery its only used for time and date anyways. I have repaired A4000 MBs with really bad corrosive damage (3yrs stored after they stopped working). Use alcohol with q-tips a plenty to make sure it is cleaned to the t. Good luck
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remove the socket and solder the proc directly to the board.
similar example:
http://www.amiga.org/gallery/index.php?n=1325
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It looks to me as if the topmost (thick) battery trace is completely corroded away around the battery terminal area. I'd reconnect the solder points along that trace with wire and see what happens before anything else.
g'luck!
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Thanks for all the help with this one guys but nothing has worked as yet. I think that maybe coldfishes suggestion is now the only hope, bar sourcing another a2000 motherboard.
This weekend is the big jobby.
On a positive side i sourced an unexpanded a1200/40hd. :-D Now i want to put a spare 30gb laptop hd inside of it. I also have one for my a600 hehe. Problem is i just can't find a local supplier with the correct ide cables for em. :madashell:
Anybody know of the best place to source these. any suggestion appreiated.
cheers
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another common problem with 2000's is the god damn fuses. It might be that your amiga is playing dead not because of the battery leak but a blown fuse.
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How would i test the fuses?
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with digital multimeter, of course. the fuse should be 'resistor' with 0 Ohms (a short). if its open then its blown.