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Amiga computer related discussion => Amiga Hardware Issues and discussion => Topic started by: motorollin on March 13, 2007, 08:30:54 PM
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Hi all
I received a cable from Amigakit this morning which allows me to use a (micro-) ATX PSU to power my A4000. I have gutted the original PSU's housing so it's just an empty box with the power switch mounted on the front. I now want to cut a hole in the front (where the fan used to be) and on the side (adjacent to the hard drive) to allow me to tuck cables inside the original housing. This will give me more space in the A4000 case and also allow me to get the cables from the ATX PSU to the motherboard and drives. Can anybody offer any advice on the best way to cut the metal housing? I don't really have any specialist tools. I have a good drill with metal cutting bits and a hacksaw.
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moto
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did you first try the mATX psu to make sure it works OK in amiga???
just load OS, with your normal rtg screenmode and try a "heavy" whdload game, like KID CHAOS ECS ... play it a little, _if_ there are probs you will see gfx corruption and eventually a crash...
that is my psu-test-game lol
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Make sure your MicroATX PSU is within Amiga tolerance levels for voltages under high load. (Amiga voltage tolerances are much tighter than PC).
Keropi found he was unable to use his uATX PSU with his A4000.
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Yes it works fine :-D I'm thinking that drilling 4 holes, one in each corner where I want the hole to be, then cutting between them will be the best way to remove a large piece of the housing. But what type of saw would be best?
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moto
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I'd use a metal scissors cutter... something a bit like a wire cutter only bigger.
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but why are you keeping original PSU casing? the switch? it should be easy making new one.
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Nibble pliers (?) are also nice for cutting arbitrary holes into thin metal.
(http://www1.westfalia.de/medien/scaled_pix/250/180/000/000/000/000/000/078/04.jpg)
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@alexh
Would they make the edges of the cut-away piece bend outwards as they cut?
@orange
I'm keeping it because it supports one side of the hard drive bracket. I think it will be easier to adapt it for my needs than to make a new one from a sheet of metal.
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moto
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@Zac67
Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately they are only suitable for metal up to 1.2mm thick. The A4000 PSU casing is quite a bit thicker than that.
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moto
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I used an electrical hand grinder with an INOX cutting disk (because it is thin)
(http://zjyida.manufacturer.globalsources.com/MAGAZINE/HW/0509/IMAGES/0509HANDGRINDTW1.JPG)
motorolin, try to post a pic and model/make of your good working mATX psu... it will be handy!
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or use "hole saws" for metal , they come in different diammeters but are somewhat expensive... u just attach them to a driller or electrical screwdriver
(http://www.annular-cutter-drill-miyanach.com/images/hss-hole-saw.jpg)
ah, the joys of having a father that owns an INOX works factory.... :lol:
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Would you use that tool to cut holes then use something else to cut between them?
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moto
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of course, you can cut 2 holes on the 2 edges, and then with the hand grinder connect them...
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when i see all those tools i get a bit scary
u can also use a dremel with cutting disc on it
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moto:
don't forget to give detailed description of this mATX that works!
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I can confirm that this PSU is working fine so far. I have just played some T-Zer0 followed by some Ruff 'n' Tumble, and I am now posting this message, all from the A4000.
The PSU I am using is badged by "FSP Group Inc" and the model number is "FSP200-50PLA". It's not actually micro ATX, it's a strange long thin power supply called "Flex ATX". You can find a picture of it here (http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=1051).
It's roughly the same length as the A4000's original PSU housing so it does fit inside. Because it is not very deep there will be additional clearance above the PSU to put cables etc. It is also very quiet compared to the A4000 PSU.
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moto
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Hi Poster,
If you don't need your original power supply switch plastic on/off (rod attaches to this to go to front of desktop case). Would you consider selling it mine is broken.
Ben.
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Hi Ben
I do still need the rod but not the original switch itself. Is it the rod or the switch you need?
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moto
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Hi Moto,
It is the switch itself, not the rod :-) Now I live in New Zealand. I guess we would need to discuss mail and cost etc. Do you use any of the Instant Message clients? I can then send you my contact details etc without having to post them here :-)