Converting Chinon FZ-357 1.44 PC drive to Amiga 880k!

[PG]

TjLaZer and Jope: ok, thanks for explaining that to me.
Amiga1260: Maybe you have set the ready signal (pin 34) to ground?
Make sure you have your drive set up like this:
pin 2 = disk change
pin 34 = Ready
and change the disk select from select 1 to select 0.
Then your drive should work fine with your amiga.

[TjLaZer]

ok I did some extensive testing and there seems to be two major different Chinon FZ-357 drives.  One will work with the Amiga when the jumpers are set right and may or may not have J2 jumpered.  If it does not detect a disk change J2 needs to be soldered.  The other type does not work at all.

Here is how you tell the diffrence from looking at the faceplate!

The good type has a rounded openning where the disk goes in, and the bad type is more square.  I will try to post some pics to show you what I mean.  But this is good news as you can physically spot them if you are buying them from a Thrift or PC salvage yard...

[RottyDude]

The Teac FD-235HF 32XX drives also work with the Amiga.  They are actually better quality then the Chinon drives and no mods are needed, just set the jumpers.  I have found these drives with beige face-plates and with the rarer black face-plates.

[InTheSand]

Hi,

Sorry to dig this topic out from last year, but I've only just discovered it... I've been trying to do what's described with one of these drives as a replacement for a dead one in an old A600.

I've carried out the J2 solder modification and have set the jumpers appropriately. However, it does not recognise any disk change events...

If I cold boot, the disk loads (if it's bootable) or if the OS has already loaded, a "diskchange" command will also make it read.

However, since my primary aim for the A600 is to play old games and demos on the telly, I'm assuming the lack of disk change signal will mean any multi-disk games/demos will not work.

Any ideas? Or have I just got one of these drives that can't be modified?

Regards,

 - Ali

[InTheSand]

Hmm...

I guess that's an unknown then!

OK... does anyone have any idea how to modify the drive (I've got no problem with soldering, etc) so that I can activate the disk change line?

I've traced the signal on the drive's board from the switch at the drive's opening but it ends up in one of the ICs... Not quite sure how to bring this out and make it available on the 34-pin connector...

Or should I just give up and buy a replacement drive from AmigaKit?!

 - Ali

[TjLaZer]

Necro bump!

I was playing with some more Chinon FZ-357 drives and found out how to successfully mod the other type.  This other type I mentioned Is a Japan made model, says on the back label.  The one I was able to mod was a Malaysia model.

Set rear jumpers as described in my previous post.
Malaysia model:  solder Jumper on J2
Japan model: solder Jumpers on J2 & J18

Both working great!

[danbeaver]

IntheSand, what about a wire directly from Disk change switch to the cable?

[Mrs Beanbag]

It is still possible to buy new external USB floppy drives, does anybody know if they have the standard connector on the inside, if you take them apart?  They are quite cheap.

[Hanzu]

Necro bump!

I was playing with some more Chinon FZ-357 drives and found out how to successfully mod the other type.  This other type I mentioned Is a Japan made model, says on the back label.  The one I was able to mod was a Malaysia model.

Set rear jumpers as described in my previous post.
Malaysia model:  solder Jumper on J2
Japan model: solder Jumpers on J2 & J18

Both working great!

This drive was salvaged from old PC and it worked after jumpering and cleaning as Amiga drive without any soldering.

CHINON MODEL FZ-357

• Forefinger space: 39,3mm
• Eject size: 17,6x5,6mm
• LED: Orange
• Dimensions: 134x25mm
• Rear sticker: MODEL FZ-357  CHINON IND,INC.  S/N 1747763  MADE IN JAPAN
  
• Front PCB text: M34035 (silkscreen)
• Rear PCB text: 318F3AC  SEP01 H1 (silkscreen & stamp next to the jumpers)
• Wheel Stamps: ES05DA  17519B
• Main IC: OK 2  VC5037
• Jumpered: DS1,MM,RDY,TTL/C-MOS
  
• J2 shortcircuited via PCB by design
• J18 shotcircuited with 0ohm resistor by factory[/COLOR]
  

[hd74ami]

Thank you! The jumpering and check of J2 & J18 worked for my FZ-357 drive in an Amiga!