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Author Topic: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help  (Read 3697 times)

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Offline XDelusionTopic starter

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Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« on: September 10, 2015, 02:28:02 AM »
I have no idea where I should post this so here it is, in the Alt Os thread. It does run Alt OS' after all, or will once I figure out how to do the darn power switch.

So what I did was take a Pi 2 and stick it in an old PSX case. I stripped down the original power back, then gutted my Pi 2 power block and removed the wall prongs and wired the connections to the power in port on the inside of that back end of the PSX.

I cut the cable that runs from that power pack to the Pi 2, and ran one to one end of the PSX Power switch and the other end to the opposite side.

In this way the power switch works and causes the LED on the PSU to light up when pressed down. Problem is that it does not power up the Pi, there is no electricity coming out the other side of the power switch. I heard you are supposed to solder the wires onto the side of a 4 prong power switch so I tried that, but all that did was cause the LED on the PSU to stay on on all of the time, but the Pi still will not power up with it.

I tested the Pi, it is still fine with an alternative PSU.


Any ideas? This should be simple.
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Offline shaf

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Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #1 on: September 10, 2015, 02:36:27 AM »
My Pi 2 uses a MiniUSB Cable to Power it and the AC Part of the Power Converter is not Grounded just 120Vac Connections (2 Prong). Is you AC input cable grounded, if so disconnect the ground wire. What is the Amperage of the DC input it should not be more than 500mA.
« Last Edit: September 10, 2015, 02:39:25 AM by shaf »
 

Offline XDelusionTopic starter

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Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #2 on: September 10, 2015, 02:54:35 AM »
All I got is positive an negative, 5V 2A, worked fine when I just had it plugged into the wall direct.
Earth has a lot of things other folks might want... like the whole planet. And maybe these folks would like a few changes made, like more carbon dioxide in the atmosphere and room for their way of life. - William S. Burroughs
 

Offline AmmoJammo

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Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #3 on: September 10, 2015, 04:34:03 AM »
Take a photo of what you've done. I assume when you say "psx" you mean psone? (The slim ps1)
 

Offline XDelusionTopic starter

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Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #4 on: September 10, 2015, 02:00:36 PM »
No, it's the classic Playstation, not the slim.

BTW, since the PSU is basically a  phone PSU, what should my meter be set to to read this proper, I don't have proper training in electronics I only know enough to sometimes fix things and other times get my self in a jam like this.

The Power LED comes on when power is off, and vice versa.








« Last Edit: September 10, 2015, 08:06:35 PM by XDelusion »
Earth has a lot of things other folks might want... like the whole planet. And maybe these folks would like a few changes made, like more carbon dioxide in the atmosphere and room for their way of life. - William S. Burroughs
 

Offline AmmoJammo

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Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #5 on: September 10, 2015, 09:59:58 PM »
I have to assume you have the switch wired such, that it's simply shorting the power supply when the switch is in the "on" position.

You can measure the voltage of the PSU with the meter set to the "20" range, in the "DCV" section.

I assume you have to rotate the connections to the switch 90 degrees, but you'll have to confirm this for yourself.

If you're not sure how to use a multimeter, have a look on youtube ;)
 

Offline Oldsmobile_Mike

Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2015, 10:02:30 PM »
Your first picture makes my eyes bleed.  My god, what happened to that poor board?  :(
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Offline AmmoJammo

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Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #7 on: September 10, 2015, 10:29:26 PM »
Quote from: Oldsmobile_Mike;795425
Your first picture makes my eyes bleed.  My god, what happened to that poor board?  :(

He ground through the copper on the board so he could use it to still mount the switch in the correct place.

Of course, he had already removed all the components, so this probably wasn't needed :hammer:
 

Offline XDelusionTopic starter

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Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #8 on: September 11, 2015, 01:06:09 AM »
Quote from: Oldsmobile_Mike;795425
Your first picture makes my eyes bleed.  My god, what happened to that poor board?  :(


Yes, I had to cut all the old traces first.
Earth has a lot of things other folks might want... like the whole planet. And maybe these folks would like a few changes made, like more carbon dioxide in the atmosphere and room for their way of life. - William S. Burroughs
 

Offline Tenacious

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Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #9 on: September 11, 2015, 01:22:33 AM »
In some other languages, the word for switch is interrupteur (If you want to say it in French, hold your nose and make a nasal sound.  HE he he.  Haw haw haw).  To interrrupt power to the Pi (turn it OFF), you only need to pass the red wire thru the switch.

Set your meter to 200 Ohms (the omega symbol) and find 2 posts of the switch that show 0  with the switch in one position and OL (overload, meaning no continuity) in the other.  Note the posts and solder the red wire from the PS to one of them.  Solder the red wire to the PI to the other post.  Solder the black wires back together and insulate the connection.

Switch your meter back to 20 DCV to confirm both states of the switch.


EDIT:  Rereading your post, I now wonder if you are talking about that green LED in the 3rd photo.  You want to keep this functional?
« Last Edit: September 11, 2015, 01:48:25 AM by Tenacious »
 

Offline Tenacious

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Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #10 on: September 11, 2015, 02:17:26 AM »
I should have read more carefully, and concentrated less on the silly French joke.  Sorry.

I think AmmoJammo in past 6 is probably right.  You could try unsoldering the wires and then testing continuity thru the switch with all combinations.  You could also test all the pins of the switch for continuity to the LED when it is in the OFF position.  Those pins should be the output side that will go to the PI.  The other 2 pins should come from the supply (You should connect the PS first, to ensure you get the correct polarity to the LED.  Then match the PI connector for correct polarity to the PI.  Confirm this with the 20 DCV meter setting before connecting to the PI).

Good Luck.
« Last Edit: September 11, 2015, 02:28:15 AM by Tenacious »
 

Offline XDelusionTopic starter

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Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #11 on: September 11, 2015, 02:56:46 AM »
The meter doesn't respond not matter what the settings...

Quote from: AmmoJammo;795423
I have to assume you have the switch wired such, that it's simply shorting the power supply when the switch is in the "on" position.

You can measure the voltage of the PSU with the meter set to the "20" range, in the "DCV" section.

I assume you have to rotate the connections to the switch 90 degrees, but you'll have to confirm this for yourself.

If you're not sure how to use a multimeter, have a look on youtube ;)
Earth has a lot of things other folks might want... like the whole planet. And maybe these folks would like a few changes made, like more carbon dioxide in the atmosphere and room for their way of life. - William S. Burroughs
 

Offline XDelusionTopic starter

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Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #12 on: September 11, 2015, 03:33:34 AM »
OK, I connected the black wire back with the black wire directly, I then hooked both red wires to the side of the board facing the PSU. Again the power light stayed on in both ON and OFF position, but I could get power through the MINI USB.

I tried to rotate the red wires to different connects, and all that does is keep the red light on at all times, but with no power. This is freaking strange, the power switch worked fine when I had the Sony mother board in here. Why is something so simple so complex? I've soldered on a Dual POkey set up on my Atari 800XL with success but I can't do this?!?!
Earth has a lot of things other folks might want... like the whole planet. And maybe these folks would like a few changes made, like more carbon dioxide in the atmosphere and room for their way of life. - William S. Burroughs
 

Offline QuikSanz

Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #13 on: September 11, 2015, 05:10:32 AM »
Quote from: XDelusion;795436
OK, I connected the black wire back with the black wire directly, I then hooked both red wires to the side of the board facing the PSU. Again the power light stayed on in both ON and OFF position, but I could get power through the MINI USB.

I tried to rotate the red wires to different connects, and all that does is keep the red light on at all times, but with no power. This is freaking strange, the power switch worked fine when I had the Sony mother board in here. Why is something so simple so complex? I've soldered on a Dual POkey set up on my Atari 800XL with success but I can't do this?!?!


Not sure what you have going on here, however, If there is no ground "-" going to the switchboard then the power is going thru the LED to the Grounded Pi board. This will show no voltage on output. Disconnect the board and meter it.

The ground may not even goto thru the switch but needs to be connected. Usually the fattest trace is ground.

Chris
 

Offline AmmoJammo

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Re: Raspberry Pi 2 B Power Switch Soldering Help
« Reply #14 on: September 11, 2015, 08:16:20 AM »
I've pulled apart one of my PS1's because I couldn't figure out how you're making this so difficult.

The led you've left on the switch board isn't connected to anything, so I assume this isn't the led you're talking about lighting up.

The contacts switch from one side to the other, not front to back....

In other words, if you have the board sitting in front of you, as it would sit in the PS1, the left contacts are the "input" and the right contacts are the "output"

Meaning, the way you have it wired above, you're simply shorting out the power supply, and the wire points need to be rotated 90 degrees...