Amiga.org
Amiga computer related discussion => Amiga Hardware Issues and discussion => Topic started by: Nitz76 on December 07, 2016, 05:13:18 PM
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I repaired my 1989 A2000 back in 2006 for a bad battery leakage. I thought I cleaned the PCB properly with a special battery spill cleaning formula but some remained on the CPU socket.
I had a black/green/yellow... screen at boot-up since a week or two. After a general cleaning with a scilicone based contact cleaner, I made it work intermittantly. I then isolated the issue to the CPU.
Seeing the socket leads being very corroded, I decided to replace it. Some of these 64 pin sockets are still available from Digikey at a reasonnable price.
Unsoldering this thing was quite a challenge since the lead used back then was not RoHS at all! :eek:
I managed to remove it bit by bit by cutting it in 4 parts. I felt like a dentist removing a wisdom tooth!
Well, after cleansing and all, tada!!
(http://www.retronicdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/a2000_cpu_removed-300x225.jpg)
Soldering back the new machined socket was easy as 1-2-3.
It worked right-a-way!
Ok now back to my RGB to YPbPr circuit...
(https://i2.wp.com/www.retronicdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Color_Bars_Amiga.jpg?resize=300%2C225)
http://www.retronicdesign.com/en/new-product-in-developpement-amiga-rgb-to-ypbpr-components-video-converter/ (http://www.retronicdesign.com/en/new-product-in-developpement-amiga-rgb-to-ypbpr-components-video-converter/)
Cheers!
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Is there an estimated price for the RGB-Componet convertor yet?
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Glad my battery wasn't that bad to damage the board after 25 years :laughing:
Is there an estimated price for the RGB-Componet convertor yet?
Need one asap :hammer:
http://www.amiga.org/forums/showthread.php?t=71661
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Unsoldering this thing was quite a challenge since the lead used back then was not RoHS at all!
I managed to remove it bit by bit by cutting it in 4 parts.
The lead based solder is a lot easier to work with due to its lower melting temperature and better wetting ability.
One of the easier ways to remove these sockets is to bend the outer edge of each socket contact towards the centre of the socket using a craft knife, giving you something to grip onto. With the PCB vertical, grip the bent-in contact with needle nosed pliers or sidecutters while you heat the solder joint on the other side of the board. Gently pull on the contact and it easily slides out of the plastic frame. Repeat for all contacts, then clear the holes using a solder sucker or wick.
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Yup, nice idea.
I used a simple solder vacuum like this one:
(http://image.dhgate.com/0x0/f2/albu/g3/M00/BC/7B/rBVaHVWl3G6AA2OPAAMcfJpACG0662.jpg)
And some wick to finish the job.
The liquid flux also gave a strong hand to clean the pads while re-tinning.
I flushed the flux with a vaporised flux remover.
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Is there an estimated price for the RGB-Componet convertor yet?
Glad my battery wasn't that bad to damage the board after 25 years :laughing:
Need one asap :hammer:
http://www.amiga.org/forums/showthread.php?t=71661
The prototype works nicely. It needs some small fine-tunning to maintain the picture quality throughout any conditions. I.E. cap values for clean frequency response.
I'm still having level shifting issues while passing from a dark picture to a bright one.
But the signal/output is extremely clean!
(https://i0.wp.com/www.retronicdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Colorbars_Zoom.jpg?resize=300%2C225)
(http://www.retronicdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/VideoTest_Signal_ok-768x400.png)
(http://www.retronicdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/VideoTest_Signal_fft_ok-768x400.png)
(http://www.retronicdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Video_Module-768x576.jpg)
Sell price has not been decided yet but should not exceed 60$ CDN + shipping. Worst piece to get, you guessed it, the DB-23!
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Yup, nice idea.
I used a simple solder vacuum like this one:
(http://image.dhgate.com/0x0/f2/albu/g3/M00/BC/7B/rBVaHVWl3G6AA2OPAAMcfJpACG0662.jpg)
And some wick to finish the job.
The liquid flux also gave a strong hand to clean the pads while re-tinning.
I flushed the flux with a vaporised flux remover.
Looks like the one I have, the shop I worked at bought a half dozen in the late 1980's.
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Looks like the one I have, the shop I worked at bought a half dozen in the late 1980's.
Yup... Still sold at your local electronic store in 2016!
I'm looking for a real Weller unsolder tool with integrated vaccum but that's expensive! I choose a nice Weller solder iron instead with variable temp. control.
Most of my tools we're bought back in 1999-2000 when I did my degree in electronics. Still top shape.
Only my old Scope "Tektronix 485B" was replaced by a digitial Rigol DS1102E. It's not a Tektronix but still does a very nice job for a fraction of the price.
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I'm using an old video test utility called VTOT "Video tools on tap" to generate the SMPTE color bars.
The rendering is near perfect but the whole color scheme is drifting when I suddently drag the dark window downwards. I suspect a DC effect near the VSYNC portion. Maybe capacitors or ...?
Original version had 220uF coupling caps. That was ugly. I then tried the opposite, 0,1uF. Image was sharp but every sharp shape were bleeding. Now I put 10uF. It's the best I got up to now. I've been suggested to use 0,22uF.
Any analog guru out there? :afro:
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Yup... Still sold at your local electronic store in 2016!
I'm looking for a real Weller unsolder tool with integrated vaccum but that's expensive! I choose a nice Weller solder iron instead with variable temp. control.
Most of my tools we're bought back in 1999-2000 when I did my degree in electronics. Still top shape.
Only my old Scope "Tektronix 485B" was replaced by a digitial Rigol DS1102E. It's not a Tektronix but still does a very nice job for a fraction of the price.
Yeah, I also still my Leader 523 scope that I used at the shop. When it closed in 1999 we all got to keep our equipment.
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Original version had 220uF coupling caps. That was ugly. I then tried the opposite, 0,1uF. Image was sharp but every sharp shape were bleeding. Now I put 10uF. It's the best I got up to now. I've been suggested to use 0,22uF.
Any analog guru out there?
Analogue design happens to be one of my jobs....
Sounds like a matter of working out the capacitor time constants with regard to the AC coupling. Send me a copy of the schematic and a scope capture of the signal you're expecting to couple and I'll have a look for you. Contact: http://amiga.serveftp.net
For a video pattern generator, search for TestCardRTG on Aminet - Barry Walker and I developed this a few years back.
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I find the big sockets like these its easier to carefully pry the plastic frame off then desolder each pin one at a time.
I'm not sure "a few still available at digikey" is a good way to describe it, makes it sound like they only have a few left and when they are gone they are gone which isn't the case. These are still a standard stocked part, if there were only a few left there would have been a notification of its discontinuance.
I still need to get time to work on mine some more, seems the battery damaged more than just the socket.
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I find the big sockets like these its easier to carefully pry the plastic frame off then desolder each pin one at a time.
I'm not sure "a few still available at digikey" is a good way to describe it, makes it sound like they only have a few left and when they are gone they are gone which isn't the case. These are still a standard stocked part, if there were only a few left there would have been a notification of its discontinuance.
I still need to get time to work on mine some more, seems the battery damaged more than just the socket.
It's just not the flavor of the month... There is a small quatity available for "small or single orders". You can order a batch but there is a one month lead time.
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Analogue design happens to be one of my jobs....
Sounds like a matter of working out the capacitor time constants with regard to the AC coupling. Send me a copy of the schematic and a scope capture of the signal you're expecting to couple and I'll have a look for you. Contact: http://amiga.serveftp.net
For a video pattern generator, search for TestCardRTG on Aminet - Barry Walker and I developed this a few years back.
Thanks!
I'll send you my schematic so you can give me your two cents.
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It's just not the flavor of the month... There is a small quatity available for "small or single orders". You can order a batch but there is a one month lead time.
Thats typical for distributes. Its a JIT world, you take a mean of how many are ordered over a given time and other just that much so you keep minimal stock because stock takes space and costs overhead. Not many people order those big sockets anymore so they don't keep a lot on hand.
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I find the big sockets like these its easier to carefully pry the plastic frame off then desolder each pin one at a time.
I find it easiest to flush cut the legs with the board then turn it over and such them up along with the solder using solder sucker shown above.
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I recently replaced the corroded CPU sockets in two A2000's. I use a Hakko 808 vacuum desoldering gun. I bought it a few years ago and I absolutely love it. I wish I had bought one a decade earlier, it wasn't particularly cheap but it was money very well spent. It makes removing stuff like this a breeze, I pulled the 68 pin socket in about 3 minutes all in one go without any damage to the PCB. I can pull a 40 pin DIP from a double sided board on a whim with little risk of damage, it absolutely transforms the diagnostic and repair process. Those solder sucker pens are junk, I never had any luck with those things.
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Will your video adapter be in any way different/better than this one:
http://gglabs.us/node/983
when completed? I've got my eyes constantly peeled for a better solution than what I have now. It is good but still has a couple of problems.
P.S. I am not currently using the above device.
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I repaired my 1989 A2000 back in 2006 for a bad battery leakage. I thought I cleaned the PCB properly with a special battery spill cleaning formula but some remained on the CPU socket.
I had a black/green/yellow... screen at boot-up since a week or two. After a general cleaning with a scilicone based contact cleaner, I made it work intermittantly. I then isolated the issue to the CPU.
Seeing the socket leads being very corroded, I decided to replace it. Some of these 64 pin sockets are still available from Digikey at a reasonnable price.
Unsoldering this thing was quite a challenge since the lead used back then was not RoHS at all! :eek:
I managed to remove it bit by bit by cutting it in 4 parts. I felt like a dentist removing a wisdom tooth!
Well, after cleansing and all, tada!!
(http://www.retronicdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/a2000_cpu_removed-300x225.jpg)
Soldering back the new machined socket was easy as 1-2-3.
It worked right-a-way!
Ok now back to my RGB to YPbPr circuit...
(https://i2.wp.com/www.retronicdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Color_Bars_Amiga.jpg?resize=300%2C225)
http://www.retronicdesign.com/en/new-product-in-developpement-amiga-rgb-to-ypbpr-components-video-converter/ (http://www.retronicdesign.com/en/new-product-in-developpement-amiga-rgb-to-ypbpr-components-video-converter/)
Cheers!
I want you to use vinger to clean the hole area as bast you can and then clean it with a lot of water and see if it did it's job. You keep doing this intell you don't see not a thing in where the pins are. And then you can report back to everyone of the job you did. Just do remember to keep no battery in the area no more and put it out by the hard drive light with wires to the area of the battery area. I am in the sacc.org in sacramento California amiga computer club.