Amiga.org
Amiga computer related discussion => General chat about Amiga topics => Topic started by: AmmoJammo on June 11, 2012, 02:10:29 AM
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Picked up this lot for the grand total of $Au50!
Two A500 consoles, both revision 6 motherboards, one faulty. :(
A590, with 40meg HDD and 1meg fast ram!
A501 ram in the trapdoor
External floppy
1084s monitor
Two tank mice
Four joysticks
Plus a fair bit of original software! and some less than original :p
(http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/2014/20120518225243.jpg)
(http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/3118/20120519113759.jpg)
(http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/1347/20120519183150.jpg)
(http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/695/20120519184522.jpg)
(http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/1156/20120519190030.jpg)
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after spending half a day crawling around under the house, looking through boxes, cupboards, spare room, and everywhere I could think of, I finally found an old SCSI drive...
its a 2.1gig, Seagate ST32430N.
So, I ordered some version 7.0 roms for the A590, and while I was at it, I also ordered a KS3.1 rom, and 68010 CPU, cos thats just how I roll!
(http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/4149/ks31w.jpg)
(http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/3963/20120602131437.jpg)
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Deciding that a SCSI CD rom was the best idea ever, I trawled the interwebs to see what I could find, and ended up with a Yamaha CD burner, at the same time I decided to order a newer chip for the A590 (can't they get anything right? :P) just incase there was any compatibility issues.
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/1392/scsix.jpg)
(http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/4407/20120609125937.jpg)
I'm pretty sure this is how all A500's were intended to be setup!
everything lying on the bench, with random cables going everywhere... afterall, everything is external anyway :whack:
The plan is to tower it, seeing as its a "sometimes" setup, I can't possibly plug and unplug everything all the time!
Also, while cleaning up, I Found some old Amiga discs in the basement (http://www.amibay.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
(http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/5919/40738284.jpg)
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Nice catch there AJ, I'll have to start a thread for my 500+ project soon. :)
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wow!, you have been busy. I was glad I never gave all my disks to who I sold my Amiga500. Great going through old disks and magazines over 20 years old!
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Our discs were either sold, or thrown out. The random discs I've found were just leftovers that must have been misplaced at the time.
I sent you a private message btw ;)
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i still have my original a500 ..with the 2meg agnus upgrade ..wire from the gary chip to somewhere did have 2.04 roms ...now 3.1 ..external harddrive cord runs to a old apple scsi harddrive i got for 10.00 ..2 meg chip 4 meg fast ..had a scsi dvd running on it at one stage ..and a 030 which had a broken chip now ..all my best high scores for pinball fantasy are on it ..only thing that ever wore out on the original was the keyboard died ..replaced it an all good....prob still be running in 20 yrs ..i hope.
i blame it for starting me off on this whole amiga madness ..the things i expected it to do ..run windows 3.1 on pctask ..why ?? cause it could..just..:>
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I went looking for a suitable megadrive controller to use on the A500, got distracted, went and bought another plastic tub to store them in :p
(http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/9725/controllerso.jpg)
Top row are wireless PS2
Next row are all USB, pretending to be PS2
3rd row down are usb again, the "sega" ones are good for emulators!
4th row, genuine PS2, and more USB "sega"
next, USB arcade joystick, genuine N64, most likely broken.
6th row, non genuine N64, horrible to use, but it makes it fair!
final row, two old, original, totally stuffed megadrive controllers, some cheapos which work ok, and finally some claimed to be genuine with terribly inflexible cords!
Although.... I have no megadrive games :( bought a console, was borrowing my cousins games... she wanted them back!
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I have no megadrive games :( bought a console, was borrowing my cousins games... she wanted them back!
problem solvered!
(http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/9360/segagames.jpg)
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$50 is a bargain, did you get it off Gumtree by any chance?
I got my current A1200 from a guy in Royal Park (SA) for $80 with whole heap of other Amiga related stuff, that was advertised on Gumtree. Was an awesome find as its mint and replaced my old aging A1200.
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Yeah gumtree. I would have loved to get a 1200!
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Nothing quite like an old A500 doing it's thing :)
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mmm, sandwich!
(http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/1904/20120619112102.jpg)
and Walker, that wouldn't load through WHDLoad with the original 2 megs of ram I had :p
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/8236/20120620134234.jpg)
might be nearly time to put the lid back on!
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Under the cpu is that one of Tom Thul's fastram addons?
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yup, 8meg, and the 512k trapdoor is now set up as chip ram :)
so, 1 meg chip, 8 meg fast.
(http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/1896/20120620114244.jpg)
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Nice.
My Rev6a 500 could use some fast ram loving. I am waiting on Tom to have some more boards available. He is also suppose to have a 1 meg chip/slow ram addon for the A500 sometime soon. Goes in the belly where the A501 typically sits.
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I only just bought this 8meg fast ram, arrived here yesterday...
although he wasn't actually advertising them, might be worth sending him a message?
unless he's already said he has none? :p
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Yeah, I have inquired a couple days ago about them.
I really want one of his combo ide+fast ram boards but he isn't making any more of those. :(
AmigaKit is suppose to working with him to get at least one of his items made into a retail product. I really hope they consider the ide+fast ram addon.
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They were only 4 meg weren't they? And didnt auto configure?
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I think so.
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Nice! :cool:
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Some very nice hardware pr0n there :)
luv to see A500's recycled and reloved!
Az
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I was considering putting the whole setup in a tower... but, I reckon I'll keep it original.
(http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/2267/20120622195821.jpg)
However, I'm going to try and stuff an AT (maybe ATX) power supply in the external CDrom drive case, and use that to power everything. A500 and A590, plus of course the cd rom drive, possibly the GBS8200, and anything else that needs power ;)
The space behind the drive is the size of a full sized PSU PCB... so we'll see how that goes ;)
May end up trying to find a smaller psu.
(http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/9256/20120622193057.jpg)
(http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/3491/20120622193111.jpg)
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Nice AJ!
Why don't you grab one of these:
http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=39&products_id=866
With optional cabling as most of the hard work is already done for you.
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because I'd still want to put it inside the cd rom case, which would involve hacking the psu up anyway ;)
trying to reduce three power cords, and two external PSUs down to a single power cable.
oh, and its not hard work! if it was, it wouldn't he a hobby :p
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I'm considering doing this to the A590 HDD...
http://members.iinet.net.au/~davem2/overclock/a500hd.html
but am a little hesitant as I'm not sure how much current the edge connector, and tracks are actually designed to handle...
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because I'd still want to put it inside the cd rom case, which would involve hacking the psu up anyway ;)
trying to reduce three power cords, and two external PSUs down to a single power cable.
oh, and its not hard work! if it was, it wouldn't he a hobby :p
Good point :D
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I did this hack on one of mine A590 and worked just fine. Be sure to have a heavy power A500 supply.
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I did this hack on one of mine A590 and worked just fine. Be sure to have a heavy power A500 supply.
I guess using a solid-state drive would be helpful too, such as a CF card inside a SCSI Card reader like the ones in Mech's store? http://a4000t.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65_79
I have an A590 here that I'd like to use on one of the A500s, and I'm really interested in getting this mod done so I only have to use the one PSU too. But rather than search for a new hard drive to replace the 40MB one in there I'm going to use a SCSI card reader instead.
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I tend to get rather easily distracted, and flit between interests on an almost daily basis...
(http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/6316/pioneer2c.jpg)
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Lol
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There is a word for that...... "female" :p
in old world terms.. a Flibbertigibbet !
Amiga should be priority, but I understand how other interests can be just as rewarding and time consuming, RC aeroplanes and helicopters share my hobby resources.
Az
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I tend to get rather easily distracted, and flit between interests on an almost daily basis...
(http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/6316/pioneer2c.jpg)
Completely off topic:
Congrats! Thats actually damn good score. Had two of those Pioneer subs in a CRX. Now trying out the Sundown Audio brand and see where it takes me. What amp(s) did you have? and was the score a legal score? (termlab on the passenger side, doors/windows closed)
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Completely off topic:
Congrats! Thats actually damn good score. Had two of those Pioneer subs in a CRX. Now trying out the Sundown Audio brand and see where it takes me. What amp(s) did you have? and was the score a legal score? (termlab on the passenger side, doors/windows closed)
yeah, dB drag legal, street stock class.
sensor on the dash, car sealed up.
amp is a ReSponse 1500watt (only ever sold in Australia)... really wasn't expecting 146.6dB, plus its a 40Hz... was the loudest on the day, at the lowest frequency, in the lowest class... :p
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RC aeroplanes and helicopters share my hobby resources.
Az
*cough*
(http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/7566/29052010229.jpg)
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oh no! your one of those silly RC slippery mud drivers!
Az
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(http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/9840/89650180.jpg)
(http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/3998/63622400.jpg)
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LOL, AJ you show all the signs of a mid-20's male living at home with very decent disposable income! :D
Here's my other Hobby:
http://users.adam.com.au/djorlc/3rd_HT_Equipment_a.html
http://users.adam.com.au/djorlc/3rd_HT_Today_a.html
I need to update the pic's tho since getting the Massive cabinet (I designed it in Sketchup and had my local furniture maker build it) - only problem with this hobby is the expense and since my little daughter came along 13 months ago, I havent had the money to feed my upgraditis. :D
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shh! trying to save a house deposit! :p
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Have a Tamiya original Frog, partial restore at this point. electronic speed controller FUTABA MC330CR, boomerang wheels all round etc etc, Also have a Tamiya plasma edge low end buggy.
Have had the frog since I was a kid.
Home theatre, have a PIONEER HTZ818BD. Not high end but does the job. For a TV have a 47" Philips LCD, downside it's not 3D but can't afford to upgrade anymore.
Also love cars, although don't have the money really. Have a 2002 Nissan Stagea Axis Autech silver :-)
Collect records, also collect PC hardware. I like to save computer gear, if anyone wants anything PC let me know.
Hoping to start another new hobby and learn to play the drums but and also want a pool table but all wishes due to my current situation.
Still need to get around to buying a house but here in New Zealand prices are extreme so another dream :-)
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home theatre isn't a hobby :p
thats like saying watching tv is a hobby... ;)
My 1989 KE Laser, second owner, was completely stock and original when I got it... not anymore...
(http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/910/clean2.jpg)
Which I MAY have added:
KYB shocks
Kingsprings
SR20 stock rims
Nolathane Bushes
Whiteline rear swaybar
B6T engine (thats the efi turbo engine btw :p)
EFI fuel tank and lines
Front Mount Intercooler
2.5inch Exhaust
Adjustable steering column
Turbo front brakes
Rear disc brakes
Transmission cooler (yes, its still auto)
(http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/303/engineout4.jpg)
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/9945/ic3q.jpg)
(http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/186/20120513151607.jpg)
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Very nice Laser you have there :-) Man I need to get a better job LOL
Not the latest photos but of it before I signed my life away buying it. :-)
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I suppose I should put the functional A500 back together... didn't have any luck getting the faulty board working
http://www.amiga.org/forums/showthread.php?t=61942
Was looking at a beige LCD monitor for $15 at cash converters.. don't know if its still there, but who wants a beige LCD monitor! lol
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I suppose I should put the functional A500 back together... didn't have any luck getting the faulty board working
http://www.amiga.org/forums/showthread.php?t=61942
Was looking at a beige LCD monitor for $15 at cash converters.. don't know if its still there, but who wants a beige LCD monitor! lol
At least it would match your miggy! :D
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I suppose I should put the functional A500 back together... didn't have any luck getting the faulty board working
http://www.amiga.org/forums/showthread.php?t=61942
Was looking at a beige LCD monitor for $15 at cash converters.. don't know if its still there, but who wants a beige LCD monitor! lol
Plenty of silver monitors from back in the day, dont know if thats much better. Got my old LG at my sisters house on there PC. 4:3 with a low native resolution, should match well. All though it is 19'' which will probobly still make games look a bit chunky.
Sold my miggy before I got in to modding cars, you would probably like our SP20 sitting in the shed. Now how can I fit my L34 into it? I also still have one RC car (a Hornet) and a Chopper:)
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I already have a 17 inch 4:3 LCD, I was only going to buy the beige one because its beige! :p
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bought it... its more white than beige, but still suits the Amiga better than silver or black.
Says "multisync" on it, but only syncs down to 25khz..
however, I only paid $10 for it, not $15, and it has built in powered USB ports, which means I can easily find 5volts in it to run the GBS8200, PLUS, I can replace the USB sockets on the base with amiga joystick ports... woot!
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/858/necmonitor.jpg)
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That is a great price for such a nice little monitor... well done!
Az
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Nice work AJ!! gonna have to pay my local Cash'ies a visit!! :D
Btw, I doubt you'll get enuf juice out of a USB port to power the GBS8200, it needs 1amp and iirc the USB is a max of 500ma.
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Btw, I doubt you'll get enuf juice out of a USB port to power the GBS8200, it needs 1amp and iirc the USB is a max of 500ma.
it needs about 400ma ;)
(http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/6674/lcd1.jpg)
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/3200/lcd2x.jpg)
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/2751/lcd3w.jpg)
(http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/391/lcd4s.jpg)
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I'm going to call it "less than 500ma"
I may have tested it with every multimeter I could find in the house...
(http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/8054/17807563.jpg)
(http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/5329/13155430.jpg)
(http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/102/56688889.jpg)
(http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/8515/74909417.jpg)
(http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/5962/50182654.jpg)
This last one is a clamp meter, designed for measuring upto 1000amps, so its not as accurate at half an amp ;)
(http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/4606/25933942.jpg)
Initial startup it draws about 330ma, which increases to 460ma once its fully booted and displaying an image.
(http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1940/57328587.jpg)
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the "USB DC OUT" on the back of the monitor isn't a regulated 5volts, the regulator is in the base of the unit, with the USB hub.. kinda just posting this here for my own future reference ;)
so, I might just build another powersupply into the base.
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nice, good to know the gbs will run on 500ma. :)
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When I removed the bottom of the base, I was slightly amused to find an external powersupply mounted internally, and also glad about the extra space free in the housing... ;)
(http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/5160/psu1t.jpg)
Under the plastic cover to the right, is the fully self contained 4 port USB hub, has a 3amp 5volt power supply on the board... this is connected to the back of the actual LCD screen, 12volt, ground, and a signal to switch the 5volt supply on only when the monitor is on... excellent!
(http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/8629/psu15.jpg)
after removing the USB hub... eh look! the GBS fits ;) going to add an "Amiga" video port on the back of the stand in place of the USB socket, and run the VGA output from the GBS, up through the stand and into the back of the monitor... don't you just love when a plan comes together! two of the mounting holes even lined up!
(http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/1083/psu2z.jpg)
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Nice, you really scored with that monitor!!!! :cool:
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*cut here*
hmm... maybe...
(http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/461/cutme.jpg)
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Could you please describe (or give a link to) the connections between the Amiga and the GBS?
How low should the LCD monitor be able to sync to work with the GBS?
Thanks!
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Could you please describe (or give a link to) the connections between the Amiga and the GBS?
How low should the LCD monitor be able to sync to work with the GBS?
Thanks!
Its just red, green, and blue signals from the Amiga, as well as ground, and the C-sync signal...
http://www.hardwarebook.info/Amiga_Video
They can simply be connected directly from the Amiga, to the GBS either using the white plug and wires it comes with, or into the "VGA IN" socket on the GBS.
In my case I'm using the Amiga to Commodore 1084 cable, so am using a 9 pin connector ;)
http://www.hardwarebook.info/Commodore_1084d/1084dS
as far as I'm aware, any VGA monitor will work, as long as it can run at least 640x480.
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jigsaw puzzle?
no, hacksaw puzzle... :p
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7628/20120701125543.jpg)
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Does the power circuitry still work post surgery?
I must admit I was wondering how you'd do it, I was thinking dremel + cut off disc. :D
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yeah, it works.. switches on and off with the monitor power button ;)
considered the dremel, but it tends to throw dust around a lot more... lol
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yeah, it works.. switches on and off with the monitor power button ;)
considered the dremel, but it tends to throw dust around a lot more... lol
Perfect! Can you post some pics showing all the bits connected up before you install everything in place? I'm curious to see how it all hangs togerther. :)
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maybe.... this is siliconed into place now...
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/677/siliconec.jpg)
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(http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/58/20120702104615.jpg)
(http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/2732/20120702114523.jpg)
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3069/20120702114707.jpg)
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Nice one, and you didn't even need to remove the OEM micro-switches to extend them!! :cool:
PS, pic of the back of the new micro-switch board too please?
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can't find a suitable plug for the internal VGA OUT connector on the board, so am considering just using the DB15HD connector internally... not really what I wanted to do...
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can't find a suitable plug for the internal VGA OUT connector on the board, so am considering just using the DB15HD connector internally... not really what I wanted to do...
It would give you the same placement flexibility imo - why dont you make 2, one for Miggies using a DB9 (CGA RGB Style) and a second VGA pass thru direct to the VGA input on the GBS?
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Used strip-board, as the switches have a common ground, so made things easier...
I bought a second GBS(8220) so I'm not worried if this is a permanent installation in the LCD base that can't be used for anything else.
(http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/59/78618672.jpg)
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Nice work, very neat! :cool:
PS, is the common ground the red wire/strip?
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Yeah red is ground, red because everyone loves red :p
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Yeah red is ground, red because everyone loves red :p
Indeed we do! :D
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can't use the DB15HD connector internally, there's not enough clearance between the connector and the case...
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(http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/1591/20120703115554.jpg)
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can't use the DB15HD connector internally, there's not enough clearance between the connector and the case...
good point, can always desolder the connector from the GBS and wire in one direct to the GBS board.
(http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/1591/20120703115554.jpg)
Nice work, love the attention to detail with the individual heat-shrinking of the soldering on the back of your DB9 connector, most ppl wouldn't have bothered! :cool:
Btw, what do you have the yellow connected to? (or is it not connected, just terminated with heat shrink?)
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Its yellow instead of grey, I swapped the wire in the loom a while ago when I was trying the separate H and V sync signals..
Found some plugs with 2mm pitch, not the right plugs, and I had to modify two plugs for the one socket...
Made up the loom to connect from the GBS to the VGA input on the monitor... and on to the pics...
(http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/8460/20120703125351.jpg)
(http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/508/resizemh.jpg)
(http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/6916/20120703130337.jpg)
(http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/396/20120703130836.jpg)
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/1644/20120703131939.jpg)
(http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/5973/20120703132006.jpg)
(http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/584/20120703132037.jpg)
Switches need "fine tuning" as they're held in place by a piece of foam wedged between the PSU and switches, which means if they're off centre, or not straight, buttons accidentally get pressed :p
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Very very nice! :afro:
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shame I don't have the other cover off the back of the monitor..
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shame I don't have the other cover off the back of the monitor..
meh, you'll never see it.
btw what is the DIN style connector 2nd from the left?
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It used to provide the power and switch signal to the power supply for the usb hub. Now that power supply section runs the gbs.
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It used to provide the power and switch signal to the power supply for the usb hub. Now that power supply section runs the gbs.
Ah I see. :)
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Found a near new AT power supply... but it looks so cheap... should I bother trying to fit it in the external CD Rom case, or keep looking?
(http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/9016/20120704121927.jpg)
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If it's putting out accurate voltages and appropriate amounts of current why not use it? it wont be working very hard to power a CD-ROM anyway.
The only issues I can see are the height of the Heat Sinks (can be cut down), Transformer & large Caps may prevent the board from fitting under the drive in your enclosure?
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and a hard drive, and an amiga 500...
it sits behind the drive.
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and a hard drive, and an amiga 500...
it sits behind the drive.
Lol, yeah that wasnt clear - well if it meets the appropriate standards why not, Miggies will run on a 25watt PSU so even a cheap 250watt PC PSU (assuming it meets proper specs) is overkill imo.
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it seems this LCD screen was first released in 1999, with a RRP of about $1600!
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it seems this LCD screen was first released in 1999, with a RRP of about $1600!
Gotta luv the never ending march of technological progress! :D
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I'm full of MDF dust... :hammer:
(http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/1950/four12s.jpg)
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Jeezuz! Is that for your car or are you building an infinite-baffle sub-woofer for your folks house? :D
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box is still under construction.
I greatly dislike MDF dust...
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Mega Midget Racer arrived today...
(http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/2111/20120719220132.jpg)
Although I have my doubts as to whether it will actually work (don't have time to test it till the weekend)
few strange things though, the entire boards surface mount components are hand soldered, is this normal?
the memory sockets along the top edge of the board have been cut down from bigger sockets?
also, there's a resistor added to U28?
FPU is currently clocked at 50Mhz, and CPU is 25Mhz ;) can I run the CPU at 33Mhz?
(http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/3338/20120719220207.jpg)
(http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/1359/20120719220231.jpg)
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Intriguing, oh well plug her in and see what happens! :)
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it came packed in polystyrene foam and bubble wrap... won't be able to test it till tonight or tomorrow as I have work...
Foam peanuts and bubble wrap are not acceptable packing materials for a static sensitive device.
oh, okay. sorry
*sigh*
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Yeah I've had electronics show up from folk in bubble wrap or aluminium foil - some from the guy's that made them who should know better, FFS Anti-static bags cost next to nothing on FleaBay!
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aluminium foil is alright, or polystyrene wrapped in foil for ICs ;)
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one item i got was embedded in that nasty crumbly polystyrene surrounded by aluminium foil! :p
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Kickstart Rom by any chance?
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Kickstart Rom by any chance?
yep! Burned Rom not original! :rolleyes:
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If the foam is wrapped in foil, then the ic legs are pushed through the foil into the foam, thats fine ;)
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Lets put it this way, the foam was falling apart and it didnt look very professional imo.
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Mega Midget Racer arrived today...
Although I have my doubts as to whether it will actually work (don't have time to test it till the weekend)
few strange things though, the entire boards surface mount components are hand soldered, is this normal?
the memory sockets along the top edge of the board have been cut down from bigger sockets?
also, there's a resistor added to U28?
FPU is currently clocked at 50Mhz, and CPU is 25Mhz ;) can I run the CPU at 33Mhz?
Stumbled across this 500+ project (http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=26167) on AmiBay and The MegaMidget Racer looks pretty much identical to yours with respect to the soldering etc - sockets are all stock tho so Im guessing they ran out of the correct DIPP sockets while making yours and got creative.
You'll be pleased to note the CPU is being run at 40mhz on this version.
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You'll be pleased to note the CPU is being run at 40mhz on this version.
there are different CPUs, ranging from 20Mhz to 50Mhz, but apparently the board will only be stable at up to about 38Mhz, even with the 50Mhz chip... this is based on what I've read, so might be wrong... plus, I don't really retain much information... lol
(http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/7142/20120721194129.jpg)
-
Damn dude, that thing is massive! What are you going to put it in?
-
BA Falcon wagon... could have been bigger, but I wanted to keep it below the cargo blind, plus it didn't need to be bigger.
Damn dude, that thing is massive! What are you going to put it in?
...that's what she said...
-
*groans*
-
(http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/9995/20120725115056.jpg)
-
That is nuts!! :D
-
I dunno what this means, but it sure makes the performance look better :p
(http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/3900/20120812174406.jpg)
-
Thinking about adding two switches to my A500 so I can run games from floppy without any compatibility issues :)
Kickstart 1.3/3.1 switch
CPU 68000/68030 switch
But then I realised I modified my motherboard so the 512k trapdoor ram appears as chip ram? will this be an issue for games that need 1meg ram?
-
Picked up this lot for the grand total of $Au50!
Two A500 consoles
In europe a500 was selling like a computer... in australia is a console? =P
-
A lot of people these days call them consoles, not sure why, when or who started that.
It's a computer after all :-)
-
A lot of people these days call them consoles, not sure why, when or who started that.
It's a computer after all :-)
Agree, ive never called them anything else then a Computer but I to have seen more people lately calling them consoles :S
-
Agree, ive never called them anything else then a Computer but I to have seen more people lately calling them consoles :S
It's because console is a generic term. You have video game consoles and computer consoles.
In france they call game cartridges, cassettes. But again when most people talk about cassettes they mean an audio cassette tape, but thats not what it is.
-
btw, seeing I hadn't posted this here yet.. :p
(http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/9013/20120816200854.jpg)
-
Just catching up on this thread!
Awesome hackery!
-
Nice speed increase now, starting to getting quite quick your machine, I would love to play around with it! Have you tried running something that pushes it's hardware a bit? :)
Edit: Removed the explanation about computer consoles since I don't want to stray to off-topic.
-
Have you tried running something that pushes it's hardware a bit? :)
got any suggestions? :p
-
got any suggestions? :p
Try some work in POV-Ray that will stress it plenty when rendering!
There are various builds for 68K Amiga version 3.1 and down will run on classic hardware, I would say use version 2.
http://ftp://ftp.povray.org/pub/povray/Old-Versions/
Would be fun to see how well it handles it :)
-
They all seem to be windows versions?
EDIT: never mind, I found the "povami" files
-
Rom switcher....
confused? of course you are... :p
its the 3.1 rom soldered directly ontop of the 1.3 rom, with chip select (pin 10) tied to +5volt (pin 21) via 5.6k resistors, and then switched to ground (pin 30?) to enable each rom.
the black socket will have the switch connected, currently just bridged with some wire for testing ;)
(http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/1433/20120818093810.jpg)
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/7171/20120818094059.jpg)
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/3913/20120818094115.jpg)
-
LOL, you could have an all-in-one ROM for about $23 and keep your originals preserved! :D
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170896365915?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_754wt_1122
Im prolly gonna grab one of these myself as my current rom switcher is too big and wont let me install my new auto-config 8mb ram board.
-
$25... $0... $25... $0...
plus, the height of the two rom chips stacked nicely supports the accelerator board.
-
:D
Id rather keep my original roms intact. :cool:
-
it appears that 68000 fall back mode doesn't work with the KS 3.1 rom, but does with the KS 1.3?
I guess the MMR was designed before KS 3.1 now wasn't it...
flick two switches, and we're back to this :p
(http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/174/20120818103248.jpg)
-
mine's faster than yours (in stock mode): :D
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/71121999/Amiga/2012-08-06%2018.31.33.jpg)
Interestingly mine is running @ 7.16mhz ?
-
that'd be NTSC.
-
that'd be NTSC.
That was running in PAL mode according to the SysInfo tool - interesting because the Rev6a board im running is from Germany not the USA.
-
mine's faster than yours (in stock mode): :D
;)
(http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/3833/20120818105542.jpg)
-
lol, how'd you do that? :D
-
I turned the volume up ;)
-
lol, can you post a pic (or details) of your mobo showing the Clock Crystal & Agnus?
Im curious to see what you's looks like as mine has JP4 joined and a 28.375mhz Clock Crystal.
Btw, does your GBS-8200 work with PAL cause if I boot in PAL using the hold-down both mouse buttons method, mine doesnt work properly and I get most of the screen missing.
-
pal mode? the who did what now?
crystal is 28.37516
JP4 I may have cut? too lazy to go look...
-
LOL, just before you power up your miggy, hold down both mouse buttons (KS3.1) and the boot menu will appear, go into Display and you can select from either mode - mine seems to default to NTSC atm even tho my research indicates I have the PAL Clock crystal - apparently for PAL it will be 28.37516MHz and NTSC it will be 28.63636 MHz.
-
I can only assume mine defaults to PAL? but haven't checked, been working on my car...
works ok with the GBS though?
also, the fact yours lists the "Vert HZ" and "Supply Hz" as 60Hz, instead of 50Hz probably has something to do with it...
I'm sure someone else can fill us in?
-
http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=62147
-
went and checked,
mine does default to PAL, if I select NTSC the GBS crashes.... auto adjust might fix it, but not going to try as I'll loose my settings :p
-
Interesting, my rev6a came with an 8372a from Germany and jp4 is closed - I might install a switch too.
-
That is weird, my GBS doesn't like pal at all????
I did discover tho that the NTSC output works with my Samsung LCD monitor via miggy-VGA adapter but PAL doesn't. I'm thinking of making a sync stripper for my GBS to see if that fixes my PAL issue.
-
...isn't 8372A the standard PAL A500 chip? :P
-
...isn't 8372A the standard PAL A500 chip? :P
Yep, Standard on rev6a iirc
-
but haven't you changed it to a 8372AB?
-
but haven't you changed it to a 8372AB?
I'm not using it ATM as the it needs 2mb chip ram to work and Tomthul is still working out the kinks in my 2mb chip ram trapdoor card.
-
oh...
then why is yours NTSC?!? :P
-
btw, the difference between my two "stock" benchmark tests, was one had the TomThul 8meg added, the other did not.
also, the KS1.3 resulted in slightly higher scores than the 3.1 ;)
running the test with KS3.1 resulted in it scoring about 3 points less than yours :p
-
oh...
then why is yours NTSC?!? :P
I'm really not sure to be honest, kinda puzzling.
Hehe, sneaky :D
-
Booting a 1.3 floppy in 68000 mode with ks1.3 it crashed with a yellow screen? While booting. It seems the mmr is badly unstable in 68000 mode with the a590 scsi controller connected.
-
That is weird, my GBS doesn't like pal at all????
I did discover tho that the NTSC output works with my Samsung LCD monitor via miggy-VGA adapter but PAL doesn't. I'm thinking of making a sync stripper for my GBS to see if that fixes my PAL issue.
Btw, I did some mucking about today, I used Miggy -> scart -> RGB-Component transcoder -> GBS-8220 and I was able to use PAL & NTSC modes with no issues. I suspect that the built-in sync separator in my Component transcoder may have helped?
So then I tried using H/V-Sync + RGB direct from my Miggy to the GBS but couldnt get this to work at all for some reason???
-
So then I tried using H/V-Sync + RGB direct from my Miggy to the GBS but couldnt get this to work at all for some reason???
I do believe one of the sync signals is reverse polarity, positive instead of negative, or negative instead of positive.
I forget which one, but that's why it doesn't work ;)
-
I do believe one of the sync signals is reverse polarity, positive instead of negative, or negative instead of positive.
I forget which one, but that's why it doesn't work ;)
That explains a lot! :D
Im thinking of making a Miggy to Female VGA lead for the GBS just for fun and to see if it works.
-
I found a 36Mhz crystal in a box? *shrugs*
Then I found a 46Mhz crystal on a sound card? that didn't work :p
(http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/5891/20120823180427.jpg)
(http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/5716/20120823181708.jpg)
-
oh...
then why is yours NTSC?!? :P
Found the cause and Fixed it, the previous owner of my mobo had joined jp4 together - I fixed it today and now my miggy defaults to PAL and the correct clock speed 7.09Mhz.
I also found that the below settings on my GBS work fairly well with both PAL and NTSC:
Tweaked for: 800x600 res:
HPOS 50
VPOS 14
HSIZE 50
VSIZE 56
CLAMP ST 97
CLAMP SD 00
EDIT: and just discovered that PAL works with the GBS defaults now my miggy is running @ the correct clock-cycles! :p
-
Also, while cleaning up, I Found some old Amiga discs in the basement (http://www.amibay.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
(http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/5919/40738284.jpg)
Hey would you happen to have a DMS or ADF of that Music disk? James' Jungle? Looks interesting! Does it have lots of songs on it? :)
-
no, it was just a disc I made years ago, had Ed Player and a single piece of music on it "Jungle Techno"
-
ADF it for us anyway mate? :cool:
-
Found the cause and Fixed it, the previous owner of my mobo had joined jp4 together - I fixed it today and now my miggy defaults to PAL and the correct clock speed 7.09Mhz.
I also found that the below settings on my GBS work fairly well with both PAL and NTSC:
Tweaked for: 800x600 res:
HPOS 50
VPOS 14
HSIZE 50
VSIZE 56
CLAMP ST 97
CLAMP SD 00
EDIT: and just discovered that PAL works with the GBS defaults now my miggy is running @ the correct clock-cycles! :p
Awesome!!
Az
-
Yes please do share the disk! :)
-
no, it was just a disc I made years ago, had Ed Player and a single piece of music on it "Jungle Techno"
Do you know where you got the icon for that disk and what the name name/group is for that song mod? Would love to get a copy of it. :)
-
Pulled one of my Wico joysticks apart... it was made 12 days after I was born :p
also looks like its barely been used!
(http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/3491/20121108124809.jpg)
-
Lol :D
-
1985, that was a good year :-) I was 10 years old LOL /feels old, runs off and hides in the corner
-
1985, that was a good year :-) I was 10 years old LOL /feels old, runs off and hides in the corner
Same here! :biglaugh:
-
Good to hear, thought everyone here was now suddenly 20 something. :-)
-
Old people :p
-
I was 2 in 1985!
-
Old people :p
Young Whipper-snappers!
Get off my lawn ....
:D
-
Is it weird that I want to make a birthday cake for my joystick? :p
-
Young Whipper-snappers!
Get off my lawn ....
:D
Gunna get yah, where's my zimmer frame...
Is it weird that I want to make a birthday cake for my joystick? :p
Would have said in the past but my Amigacentric tendencies say why not? :-)
-
made this the other morning before work..
(http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/8860/20121109210415.jpg)
Then found that these guys copied me :p lol
http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=934
except it seems they decided to use impractically short cables, for some reason?
-
Then found that these guys copied me :p lol
Nah, you copied me. ;-)
I sold these in the school yard back in the day (1992 or so).. Made 20 finnish marks profit per unit! :-)
-
Nah, you copied me. ;-)
I sold these in the school yard back in the day (1992 or so).. Made 20 finnish marks profit per unit! :-)
I was more commenting on the identical back shells :p
-
Lol, nice work anyway AJ. :cool:
-
While copying stuff from CD to HDD today, using DOpus, this happened, 3 times before I gave up... :(
(http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/2055/softwarefailz.jpg)
-
Not ideal, where the file names too long?
Btw, if you are using SCSI make sure you get a proper external active terminator (http://www.pccables.com/images/SCSI_TERMINATOR_EXTERNAL_HPDB68M_ACTIVE_SCREW.jpg) and at least a dual shielded SCSI Cable - back in the 90's when I was a Macintosh Tech, I solved 98% of stability issues by replacing the customers cheap a$$ SCSI cables with decent ones and using real terminators instead of the built in Termination on everything from Scanners to external Hard Drives.
-
could be something to do with scsi termination...
the error code apparently suggests ram.. but who knows :p
need to find a decent memory testing application I think..
-
I terminated the internal HDD instead of the external CDrom... not the right way to do it..
seems to have made things worse? Instead of a red screen of death, I get a black screen, and no errors (this is while copying from the CD to HDD)
I also now have issues with WHDLoad, giving "NMI Autovector" errors, which I think is probably related...
really not sure whats going on :/
-
removed the semicolon from a few lines in the WHDLoad config file, seems to have fixed the crashing issue...
I also adjusted the HD max speed? as someone said that may be the issue too... didn't change a thing?
-
Only The last scsi device in the chain should be terminated, I also found (back in the day) that making the closest device to the controller say #2 and the next device in the chain say #3 helped a lot to.
-
I know the "last" one is meant to be terminated... but what is first and last? ;)
the HDD has an active terminator, and can supply it's own power to the internal terminator... while the CDrom has a single jumper for the terminator, and I wasn't sure if it supplied its own power, or got it from the scsi cable..
edit: the other thing is, I can imagine a bad terminator setup resulting in disc errors... not the whole system restarting...
-
I've seen scsi cause all sorts of random crashing and data corruptions.
If your cd rom is physically last in the chain, then only it should be terminated and have the highest device Id number.
-
Hmm....
(http://www.iomega.com/support/manuals/jaz2e/images/man_jaz2e_scsi_term_full.gif)
(http://img.tfd.com/cde/SCSICHAN.GIF)
(http://www.wonkity.com/~wblock/SCSI/scsi3.gif)
*goes off and terminates everything*
:p
The A590 doesn't appear to have any termination on the board, while the A2091 (that the last diagram above was making reference to) does have..
-
Yeah that all looks good - only thing to consider is, is the the HDD part of a single chain or is it on it's own internal chain. :)
You can tell by the cable coming from the controller, if it loops back to the PCB it's likely that to cut costs there is a single chain and the only thing to terminate is the external device.
-
no loop back?
http://amiga.resource.cx/photos/gallery/a590.jpg
internal cable just goes from the PCB to the HDD.
-
no loop back?
http://amiga.resource.cx/photos/gallery/a590.jpg
internal cable just goes from the PCB to the HDD.
Ok, yep the internal drive does need to be terminated then - if you can find an internal active terminator that would be best practise. they usually look like this:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/71121999/Amiga/internal%20scsi%20terminator.jpg)
although most decent scsi HDD's did use active termination. :p (impossible to know for sure tho unless you can find a datasheet online)
-
As I mentioned before, the HDD has inbuilt active termination... can either be either bus powered, self powered, or provide power to the bus...
http://ftp://ftp.seagate.com/pub/acrobat/install_guides/hawk/67471c.pdf
It's set to self powered at the moment.
-
As I mentioned before, the HDD has inbuilt active termination... can either be either bus powered, self powered, or provide power to the bus...
http://ftp://ftp.seagate.com/pub/acrobat/install_guides/hawk/67471c.pdf
It's set to self powered at the moment.
Ok, that's how i'd have configured it too - great manual, you dont see them like that anymore! :(
how thick and flexible is the scsi cable for the CD-ROM drive? the very flexible onse where usually only single shielded and very prone to issues, dual shielded or better is the best option (I have a couple that might be of use - only issue is they use the HD50 connectors).
-
I'm beginning to think there might be an issue with the 512k of ram on the Mega Midget Racer... :/
(http://imageshack.us/a/img854/2953/20121111122156.jpg)
-
Yeah that could easily cause the problem you are having as Copying files definitely uses any fast mem available.
Can you remove the ram chips and clean up the contacts (fine grit sandpaper works well) so see if it passes the mem-test then?
-
It only sometimes fails, Ive removed it from the startup sequence, still crashes.
-
It only sometimes fails, Ive removed it from the startup sequence, still crashes.
try removing the midget all together?
-
Worked without the MMR... copied about 100 megs...
put the MMR back in... failz... :/
-
Worked without the MMR... copied about 100 megs...
put the MMR back in... failz... :/
Bugger!
-
thought I might have been putting too much load on the powersupply, but the 5volt rail is at a pretty solid 4.9volts, 12volts is spot on 12...
-
tried clocking the MMR at 36Mhz, 33Mhz, and the stock 25Mhz... same issue...
doesn't work...
I think I might just pack the whole setup in a box and leave it alone :/
took a few photos:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img42/5216/20121111124040.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img196/141/20121111134717.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img13/4861/20121111142616.jpg)
I also had an "Orange screen of recoverability" :p
workbench said it was a recoverable error, then proceeded to reboot anyway...
-
Do you have any other fast ram installed like tom's 8mb?
-
got the tomthul 8meg.
when I tried it without the MMR, I still had the tomthul ram, and had no issues...
WB3.1 won't run overly well with only 1 meg, so can't exactly try it without.
-
True, how much ram is on the MMR and will it work with it removed?
-
only 512k on the MMR.. makes no difference if its installed, removed, setup, or not setup... it still crashes... so its not the 512k on the MMR that's the issue, it's probably the MMR not working properly with the A590 scsi controller...
the MMR won't work in 68000 fall back mode at all with the A590, to boot from the HDD, with the 68000, I had to completely remove the MMR.
-
Ah, might be time to retire the MMR and wait for the Zeus68k or aca500 to arrive.
-
Pulled the fpu, still crash.
Now Ive removed the fpu and tom thul, reenabled the 1meg in the a590 and we shall see what happens.
-
And the update:
TomThul 8meg + Mega Midget Racer + A590 SCSI controller = no
-TomThul = yes....
it appears to work flawlessly without the tomthul 8meg.... most FRUSTRATING PIECE OF HARDWARE EVER!
-
lol, have you inspected the MMR for dodgy solder joints etc?
-
There's nothing wrong with the MMR...
I've decided the best place to install the TomThul 8 meg, is here:
(http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/8773/20121111180856.jpg)
It's totally unreliable, and apparently not compatible with much more than a stock A500...
I guess that's what happens when you try to mix old with new :/
With the 512k inbuilt, 512k trapdoor, 512k on the MMR, and 1meg in the A590, it seems perfectly stable.
-
It's totally unreliable, and apparently not compatible with much more than a stock A500...
I guess that's what happens when you try to mix old with new :/
With the 512k inbuilt, 512k trapdoor, 512k on the MMR, and 1meg in the A590, it seems perfectly stable.
Have the same trouble with the exact same 8MB mod from Tom :-) Works fine with just the A590 but causes the same MMR fault you are having when I use the HARMS card.
Thought it was faulty RAM and bought some more ZIP RAM, same problem. Strange as the RAM on the card is 32bit and in a higher memory range than Tom's.
Although removing it didn't solve my speed issue LOL
-
and only just NOW you decide to tell me this? :P lol
-
I've got one of Kipper's auto-config 8mb boards in the mail now and Im fairly certain it'll solve some issues I have - from my testing in WinUAE it seems that you need an auto config fast ram board to prevent the OS from wasting half your chip-mem!
-
and only just NOW you decide to tell me this? :P lol
LOL I know slack on my part hahaha :-)
-
and now WHDLoad doesn't work...
games just flash to a black screen every few seconds, sometimes at the same time as the power light flashes...
*sigh*
CD Rom works well though!
-
Apparently the flashing is due to insufficient ram.
Well, ah, yeah, makes sense, dont have a solution though!
-
When I get my auto config 8mb board ill bring it over if you like to see if that works?
-
When I get my auto config 8mb board ill bring it over if you like to see if that works?
might be worth a try... how far away is it? :p
I found the tomthul to not work at all between the accelerator and motherboard, but worked to some extent plugged into the accelerator..
Not sure how well Klippers would fit on the accelerator... Really want/need more 32bit ram anyway ;)
-
Kipper mailed it to me last week :)
As you say worth a try, fun to experiment anyway. :)
-
As is, I have 1meg chip, 1.5meg "fast" ram....
because 1meg of the fast ram is in the A590, workbench uses that first, and lives me with almost a whole meg of chip ram free...
I can add another 1 meg to the A590 scsi controller, if I can find some suitable... which may be all I need to get things working right ;)
-
2mb fast ram is usually enuf for WHDLoad iirc. :)
-
I found I couldn't get anything to run without 2MB chip RAM. Had 2MB Fast on the A590 which was enough to play most games.
Although when I added the 8MB I had more sound in IK+, but no sound with the shield and balls/heads.
When I added the Harms card I had all the sound in IK+ Just one game I noticed some changes on.
-
I'm running 1mb chip ATM with 8mb non-auto config fast ram which means about 500k chip ram gets wasted by ClassicWB and most games still work in whdload.
-
I'm running 1mb chip ATM with 8mb non-auto config fast ram which means about 500k chip ram gets wasted by ClassicWB and most games still work in whdload.
Can't get it to work with only 1MB chip RAM, have 900k left over once ClassicWB loads, but always get not enough chip RAM to load.
If I use tiny launcher or x bench (I think it's called) 5 out of 10 games will load.
On the 500 plus no such drama's, 1.7MB chip available and it works great.
-
got fastmemfirst in your startup sequence? ;)
-
got fastmemfirst in your startup sequence? ;)
That's not a valid command in WB3.1
-
That's not a valid command in WB3.1
that's why you copy it from the WB1.3 disc... I was suggesting it to Lurch anyway, as he seems to be running out of chip ram.
It would seem that my HDD/SCSI controller is incredibly slow!
(http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5930/20121113104732.jpg)
-
Hmm, I might try that.
That's not too bad, my cf-IDE isnt much faster @ 580,000 bytes per second.
-
that's why you copy it from the WB1.3 disc... I was suggesting it to Lurch anyway, as he seems to be running out of chip ram.
It would seem that my HDD/SCSI controller is incredibly slow!
Will give that go :-) Have been playing with Fblit as well, thats pretty good :-)
Must check how fast my cf-card is reading now that you've brought that up.
-
Sysinfo gives me totally nonsense results for SCSI speed... someone suggested I use this:
http://aminet.net/package/util/moni/RSCP
Which gives considerably more realistic results.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img850/4025/20121114103251.jpg)
-
If you want more precise results, use http://main.aminet.net/pub/aminet/disk/moni/DiskSpeed42.lha
-
what do folks use for stress testing chip & fast ram?
-
what do folks use for stress testing chip & fast ram?
I play games... then when it crashes, I don't know why :smack:
P.S. I have 900+k of chip memory spare once WB has loaded ;)
I am however lacking fast memory... :/
(http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/8372/20121114095635.jpg)
-
Are you using classicWB or plain wb3.1?
-
924k of chip ram after workbench loading is very good!
1meg fast ram is fine for most applications under WB3.1
-
924k of chip ram after workbench loading is very good!
1meg fast ram is fine for most applications under WB3.1
I've got 951kb of free chip-ram now - got my a500 extension board and 8mb fast-ram board today from Kipper and they work great!
Having auto-config fast ram makes a huge difference!!! :D
-
How much was the board made by kipper?
if it true autoconfigs then he has made a great a500 expansion!
Az
-
How much was the board made by kipper?
if it true autoconfigs then he has made a great a500 expansion!
Az
Yeah it's brilliant and the adapter board is awesome for relocating my CPU, Ram-board & IDE68k to where there is more room:
The Auto-config 8mb board is $49CAD + $9.95CAD and the adapter board was $9.50CAD
http://kipper2k.com/amigaforsale/
-
Sysinfo gives me totally nonsense results for SCSI speed... someone suggested I use this:
http://aminet.net/package/util/moni/RSCP
Which gives considerably more realistic results.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img850/4025/20121114103251.jpg)
Here are my results, a bit slower and not surprisingly I have no spare CPU (one of the reasons SCSI is so much better than IDE)!
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/71121999/Amiga/2012-11-16%2019.07.57.jpg)
-
Here are my results, a bit slower and not surprisingly I have no spare CPU (one of the reasons SCSI is so much better than IDE)!
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/71121999/Amiga/2012-11-16%2019.07.57.jpg)
Thats gotta be unbearably slow!?!
I did overclock my SCSI controller as mentioned in another thread ;)
edit: dont forget, I have a 36Mhz CPU.. :p
(http://imageshack.us/a/img849/8789/20121114102604.jpg)
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Slow, no not really but I will get a Zeus68k when they are released. :)
-
Found these photos while looking through boxes of "stuff" I have stored in the basement...
Its my brother in both pics, few years apart ;)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img16/958/001zwd.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img713/4772/004iin.jpg)
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Star LC-100 printer, Max Respect!
-
Love the retro pics! A true Amigan sir!
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AJ, is that a 2000 in the corner on the right hand side?
-
Where can you buy the addide board for amiga 500 and how much is it?
-
Star LC-100 printer, Max Respect!
Ah, really? lol
These pics aren't really from the Amiga Era, my parents could never afford anything brand new...
The A1200 pic was taken in 1999, while the A500 pic might be 3 years earlier?
And yes, that is an A2000... had a memory expansion card (maybe 2 megs?) as well as a 240meg HDD, and of course the CD Rom drive ;)
-
First photo is so the setup I had, although we couldn't afford the monitor at the time so had the A500 connected to small 14" NEC CRT TV :-)
Same TV I used with my Commodore 64C, never liked the dark brown 64. Wish I had a camera back then.
Would love to be able to look back.
@djos, the A500 adapter, would that cause problems if one had an accelerator?
-
First photo is so the setup I had, although we couldn't afford the monitor at the time so had the A500 connected to small 14" NEC CRT TV :-)
Same TV I used with my Commodore 64C, never liked the dark brown 64. Wish I had a camera back then.
Would love to be able to look back.
I was pretty lucky, my folks teamed up with my Nan to buy our family our 1st computer for Xmas '88 - it was a Tandy 1000ex (with CM5 monitor & Tandy DotMatrix printer) which was much better than most PC's of the time as it had PCjr 3-voice sound and PCjr 16 colour CGA GFX (instead of 4 colour) if you had the RAM/DMA upgrade board with at least 384kb in total - which dad bought about a year later.
I think he traded it in for a PC clone in about '91 which was much faster and had a 40MB HDD but no sound and normal CGA GFX (which sucked!). I had to save up for an Adlib Sound Card to get music again!
@djos, the A500 adapter, would that cause problems if one had an accelerator?
not sure mate, although as long as there are no tall caps it should be able to sit on top of the accelerator board. It comes with removable riser-pins too so you can make it lower profile if need be.
-
it was a Tandy 1000ex (with CM5 monitor & Tandy DotMatrix
Loved the Tandy, never owned one though. Use to look at the pictures in magazines.
I think he traded it in for a PC clone in about '91 which was much faster and had a 40MB HDD but no sound and normal CGA GFX (which sucked!). I had to save up for an Adlib Sound Card to get music again!
Jumped off the Amiga band wagon and bought a 486sx25 with a Soundblaster 16. Before I got the sound card I was not amazed. But man Doom was awesome, ashamed to say I didn't miss the humble 500. Cranked the 486 up to a 486dx133 amazing in a full tower box but a pain to transport for LAN parties (back when they were not mainstream). 17" CRT TV to boot... back of the car never looked lower.
not sure mate, although as long as there are no tall caps it should be able to sit on top of the accelerator board. It comes with removable riser-pins too so you can make it lower profile if need be.
Hmm, tempted as I like the idea of the cf-card out the back. But then I don't want to loose the speed of the scsi :-/
-
I believe you can get scsi to cf adapters which would be the fastest option.
-
I believe you can get scsi to cf adapters which would be the fastest option.
Yes you can, but not internally on the old' 500. My A590 already has a SCSI card reader, just doesnt fit very well, have yet to get the courage to cut into it.
Not sure I'll be holding on to the 500, thinking about either micro itx setup or a nice shiney A1200.
-
If you want IDE without chewing up your CPU i'd wait for the Zeus68k (im prolly gonna get one myself once they are ready):
http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=65047
I wouldnt waste your time on Jen's aca500, that thing is an insult to a500 owners with it's pathetic 2mb ram and 14mhz 68k - he should make a proper accelerator for the 500 and if he wants a500 owners to buy his aca12xx boards he should just make a bloody adapter with no redundant ram, no redundant CPU and just IDE + some useful stuff like Ethernet and USB!
a 1200 is a good idea, i want one but cant really afford one. :(
-
(http://imageshack.us/a/img132/6012/20121124204415.jpg)
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Your Birthday?
-
the joysticks birthday.
-
Can't wait until the A500 has a birthday ;-)
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the joysticks birthday.
lol, nice one! :pint:
-
If you want IDE without chewing up your CPU i'd wait for the Zeus68k (im prolly gonna get one myself once they are ready):
http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=65047
I wouldnt waste your time on Jen's aca500, that thing is an insult to a500 owners with it's pathetic 2mb ram and 14mhz 68k - he should make a proper accelerator for the 500 and if he wants a500 owners to buy his aca12xx boards he should just make a bloody adapter with no redundant ram, no redundant CPU and just IDE + some useful stuff like Ethernet and USB!
+1
I was PISSED when I saw how low-spec it was for around a c-note. To add insult to injury, you have to spend another 200$, to get something adequate, by stacking an ACA1230 on top of it. I get what he's trying to do, but to be honest, I would have much rather had an accelerator based off the ACA1230, but specifically for the A500.
Or better yet, Clone-A......
-
I pointed this out to him over at eab but he refuses to listen, very disappointing and even the aca500 itself is currently vaporware with not 1 single pic having been posted of even a prototype!
-
@AJ mate I now have a spare fully working rev5 mobo that you might be interested in for your 2nd a500, it has a 1.2 ks rom and ran perfectly when I tested it (includes top and bottom sheilds).
-
I have some Rev5 mobo's as well... its the damn floppy drives that fail most often :) need a few of those and I could rebuild some nice systems, a590 includes and AddiDE etc
Az
-
Yeah FDD's are a PITA, I just bought a refurbished drive from Vesalia for my a1010 as my modded Panasonic doesnt fit and despite several, apparently successful clean and lube jobs, it keeps failing and killing discs! :destroy:
-
@AJ mate I now have a spare fully working rev5 mobo that you might be interested in for your 2nd a500, it has a 1.2 ks rom and ran perfectly when I tested it (includes top and bottom sheilds).
SOLD!
Thanks Derek!
-
I am just jealus !
-
SOLD!
Thanks Derek!
No worries mate, was nice to finally meet you. :)
-
Been playing with the Laser a bit ;) new radiator, which has resulted in needing a new fan... dont ask :/
(http://imageshack.us/a/img641/1114/20121201135753.jpg)
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Lol, that thing is a weapon!
-
was always fun to drive, but now I'm trying to get the air con working...
issue is, I've moved the radiator to the middle, its normally offset to the passenger side, which means the AC compressor doesn't clear the lower radiator hose...
combined with the fact that the top radiator outlet snapped off, it doesn't really help...
so, new, thicker radiator, twice the thickness of the stock one, but then the radiator fan doesn't fit...
(http://imageshack.us/a/img853/9568/20121204161222.jpg)
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@AJ, What model car is that?
-
Ford Laser TX3 Turbo
-
Its a 5 door 1989 KE Ford Laser.
Was a carby engine, but its had a transplant from (I believe) a Jap spec BF Mazda Familia.
Same engine as the locally sold Ford TX3, but the ecu should be setup for better fuel than what we had in Australia in 1989, so it's meant to do 110kw stock, compared to 100kw for the aussie version.
-
Has the Red paint bleached from that hot sun of yours ? looks well tidy in the engine bay
-
Its a 5 door 1989 KE Ford Laser.
Was a carby engine, but its had a transplant from (I believe) a Jap spec BF Mazda Familia.
Same engine as the locally sold Ford TX3, but the ecu should be setup for better fuel than what we had in Australia in 1989, so it's meant to do 110kw stock, compared to 100kw for the aussie version.
That's all well and good but how many Mips does it do? ;-)
-
Has the Red paint bleached from that hot sun of yours ? looks well tidy in the engine bay
looks pretty red in the first pic I posted in this thread :p
(http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/910/clean2.jpg)
That's all well and good but how many Mips does it do? ;-)
over 9000!
-
Looks tasty in that shot :-)
-
looks pretty red in the first pic I posted in this thread :p
(http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/910/clean2.jpg)
over 9000!
LOL
That will teach me to read the thread ! shes a beaut ! how come it has resisted the sun bleach ? some of the red one in the UK look dreadful !
-
It hasn't..
looked like this when I got it, and its almost faded back to the same point..
(http://imageshack.us/a/img33/866/imgp1494o.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img855/3830/28082010366.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img19/3041/27102010537.jpg)
-
So what's going on in this thread then?
-
So what's going on in this thread then?
1989 is going on...
-
I don't know what you guys are talking about but that car is a piece of ****!
-
Hey AJ, when are you going to post pics of your 2nd a500 up and running after the rev5 heart transplant I sold you? :)
-
probably some time after I've put the motherboard in... :p
-
probably some time after I've put the motherboard in... :p
Btw, you were missed at tonight's Adelaide Amiga GTG, slacker! :D
-
Cool, nice car...I like the TX3's...I grew up in the UK and was always a fan of the escort xr4, the laser TX3 is similiar in some ways.
-
It's not a TX3, the Ford TX3s only have 3 doors, and the KE model have the four round headlights.
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/ca/1987-1990_Ford_Laser_%28KE%29_TX3_3-door_hatchback_01.jpg/800px-1987-1990_Ford_Laser_%28KE%29_TX3_3-door_hatchback_01.jpg)
What's this XR4 Escort you speak of?
-
http://youtu.be/iUQ84PTMswI :-)
-
As we're trying to have an 80's theme here I thought I might post me (a lot bigger me) standing beside my first car in 1987 :-)
-
Here's a shot from the 80's of my mates triumph, mint on the inside. A shame we don't have any photos of the inside.
My beast AW11 MR-2 in the back ground.
-
..and just to keep it on topic :-)
-
Nice, I always wanted that shape MR2.
-
Miss it a lot. Was originally designed by lotus :-) Although had a nasty twitch so if you pushed it too hard around something like a roundabout it could do a 360 spin :-)
-
It seems the floppy drive in my "spare" Amiga 500 was actually knackered...
The guy I bought it from said thats what was wrong with it, but powering up the motherboard gave nothing anyway!
soo! I might try fit a PC drive into the case ;)
-
Lol, so your orginal Mobo was ok after all? :D
-
Nah the original motherboard doesn't work.
The guy I got it from said it was just the floppy drive, but the few times I tried powering it up, all I got was a black screen, and a flashing caps lock light from memory.
I even swapped all the chips, found it had a dead CIA chip, but even putting a good one in, it still didn't work.
-
I bought another A500 power supply, paid $15 and got a Commodore 64 joystick, and PS2 steering wheel as well :p
but now I'm confused, I'd always assumed this information to be correct:
http://www.hardwarebook.info/Amiga_500/600/1200_Power_Supply
however, how heavy is the "heavy" power supply meant to be? I'd always assumed mine was a heavy, low powered version...
But now that I have two power supplies, I started comparing...
both weigh about the same, but both are 5volt @ 4.3amps, 12volt @ 1amp.
BUT! one is made in Singapore, the other in China?
I'll pull one apart to confirm that its not switchmode... but can anyone shed some light on this?
I have a feeling the PSU I've just bought has NEVER been used! no discoloration whatsoever.
-
Apparently the Commodore 128 use the same connector as the Amiga 500 power supply, so I thought it might be a C128 PSU, but the voltages match the A500?
-
I've come to the realisation that hardware book is just wrong...
-
I have a really heavy A500 PSU which is the lower wattage. I also sold off a couple of the lighter ones, they are so light that it feels like there's nothing inside them :-)
-
These are heavy, like 2kg heavy, but they're the only PSUs I've ever seen for the A500s, although I've only ever seen three :p
I'm curious about the heavy, lowered powered versions? and why these are heavy, but the same power as the switchmode versions..
-
Not really sure then, I could have another look as I haven't used it in awhile as I started using an ATX PSU :-)
I've boxed it away somewhere, buried under other stuff as the other half wanted the dining room table clear for xmas...
so depressing putting my Amiga gear away, I need a man cave :-) LOL
-
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/9825/bolted.jpg)
-
I may have ended up with this collection...
four C64s, all with powersupplies.
two floppy drives, two tape drives.
an A500 with 512k trapdoor, but the warranty seal is unbroken! :p,rf modulator and external floppy drive, but no powersupply? :(
four joysticks, all of which are well and truly abused
as well as various cables, a few bits of genuine software as well as copied stuff, plus a "Music Maker" and "Fast Load" cartridge ;)
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/8361/20130106125309.jpg)
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WOW, did you score it on evilBay or GumTree?
-
Gumtree ;)
both C64 floppy drives work, as to both tape drives.
However, one C64 appears to function perfectly, another has a bad SID chip, another comes up with a memory error, and the final one is dead!
-
Gumtree ;)
both C64 floppy drives work, as to both tape drives.
However, one C64 appears to function perfectly, another has a bad SID chip, another comes up with a memory error, and the final one is dead!
ok spill, how much for the loot? :afro:
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I didn't know the issues when I bought it?
I was going to swap out the bad SID chip for the one from the machine with the bad memory, but the known bad SID is the ONLY one out of the four that isn't socketed... :/
The machine with the memory error appears to have some weird white residue on the ceramic capacitors near the memory chips?
(http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/5024/20130106160526.jpg)
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Nasty, it's not salt residue is it? (taste test time) :p
btw, I found a replacement SID on fleabay for about $30, make sure you get the right one, 6581 is the correct one for the original colour BreadBin models.
-
Its only on those capacitors though, so Im not sure. Error says "?OUT OF MEMORY ERROR IN 0"
-
In that case replace them all and see what happens. :)
-
Apparently the memory is more likely to fail if the electrolytic capacitors have dried out, and there's more ripple on the 5volt rail..
so, before I do anything, I'm going to replace the electrolytic caps in the three "good" C64's and powersupplies ;)
-
I plugged in the "new" A500...
kickstart 1.2! and it seems a dud floppy drive...
I suppose I'll have to pop its cherry... :p
-
I plugged in the "new" A500...
kickstart 1.2! and it seems a dud floppy drive...
I suppose I'll have to pop its cherry... :p
Cool, you can get a new replacement drive from Vesalia, I got one for my 500+ and it works great.
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ah, but I have two A500's with dead drives, and its totally not worth it! lol
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its totally not worth it! lol
Sacrilege !!!! :flame:
-
great topic, i will start now with mine :)
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Sacrilege !!!! :flame:
Could always chuck in a HxC thingo ;)
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Could always chuck in a HxC thingo ;)
Good Idea, I got a RevC Blue for my a500 but I need to solder on a connector block to relocate the buttons and make up a cable for the buttons and display so currently it's just hanging out of the a500 case. :D
Works really well tho and im very happy with it.
-
btw, I found a replacement SID on fleabay for about $30, make sure you get the right one, 6581 is the correct one for the original colour BreadBin models.
I'm going to pull the SID out of the dead machine, along with the memory, so hopefully I end up with 3 fully functional C64's, although I'd be happy with two ;)
-
@AJ how much did you pay for the lot? ;-)
-
@aj how much did you pay for the lot? ;-)
$150...
-
Replaced the four capacitors in two of the C64's, one was the fully functional, the other has the bad ram.
Fortunately both these boards had the provision for a radial capacitor, instead of the original axial... The board with the bad SID (thats soldered, not socketed) is of course going to create more issues for me, as it isn't the same... :p
(http://imageshack.us/a/img707/9739/20130109180154.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img846/9067/20130109190634.jpg)
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Very cool. I should do this for my collection of c64's before they give trouble. Where did you get the replacements from?
Az
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Anywhere that sells capacitors? :p
These came from Jaycar, there was someone on ebay selling a "set" of replacement capacitors and voltage regulators too.
-
I don't have any store local that sell electroic components, so I either drive 60kms to a Jaycar store or buy online.
Which is why I asked :)
Az
-
60km? so, about half an hour? :p
I removed the "bad" SID chip, and fitted a socket...
put a different SID in, and it sounds exactly the same... whats the chance of two chips failing in an almost identical way?
Is there a good game/music/demo to fully test the SID?
-
I've got a sid test program I'll send you later tonight. (.d64)
-
what about sending me a floppy disc? xD
how exactly does the program work?
Thanks for the email btw ;)
-
what about sending me a floppy disc? xD
how exactly does the program work?
Thanks for the email btw ;)
Bring a disc around to my place sat arvo and I'll copy it for you if you like?
It plays a bunch of test tones to test all the Sid features, was handy when I had a dead Sid.
-
Why not just play some music/sounds on it? If it's bad then it'll sound bad??
Pretty low chance of two SID's failing, could try a working good SID from another C64. Or try the "bad" SID in a known good C64 :-)
-
it sounds crackly... with both chips..
haven't put the "good" chip in the "bad" C64 as I dont want to risk damaging it.
-
I dont suppose anyone has a schematic for the 250407 C64 motherboard?
-
I dont suppose anyone has a schematic for the 250407 C64 motherboard?
These might be helpful:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/71121999/c64/Troubleshooting_and_Repairing_your_Commodore_64.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/71121999/c64/Commodore_64_Troubleshooting_and_Repair_Guide.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/71121999/c64/Commodore_1541_Troubleshooting_and_Repair_Guide.pdf
:cool:
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I think the capacitor thats in series with the audio output is C13 on my motherboard... but its C77 on one schematic I've seen, and C37 in the second link you posted...
So, I might start by replacing that.
edit: my mistake, C37 is a different part ;) *goes off to look*
-
Cool, good luck. :)
I might re-cap mine one of these days but for now it works perfectly so i'll leave it.
-
The problem with leaving it is, that apparently if there's excessive ripple on the 5 volt rail, the memory chips can be the first thing to suffer...
-
Hmm, good point - might buy one of those cap packs from eBay then - might do my 500's while I'm at it too. :D
-
I ordered a Nano SwinSID the other day... I think...
The webpage was entirely in German, and my German extends as far as "Guten tag"
:p
http://www.sinchai.de/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=90
Of course, I'm still not convinced that the SIDs are bad... perhaps tonight, I'll take the plunge, and plug the "bad" chip(s) into the "good" motherboard... :p
-
Lol, get a 1541u2, they do pretty good dual Sid emulation and transform your c64 into a real beast (REU up to 16mb, all save carts, jiffy dos rom support, tap support, g64 support etc)
-
Btw, I found a Seller on fleabay with a nice pack of replacement BreadBin c64 Caps and Voltage regulators for $10aud delivered so I grabbed a set. :)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170858848148?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_500wt_1130
-
I've recorded the Bolder Dash II music, is there anywhere good to host wave files? about 4 meg each.
-
youtube, with a stolen screenshot? ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94aTHJHgQSk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmN7FwRLz-c
-
I put the good chip in the bad motherboard... sounds good...
so, I have two bad SIDs...
-
so, I have two bad SIDs...
That sucks, you can usually pickup replacements on ebay tho.
-
Btw, ive been given the below contact in France who supplies a500 Capacitor replacement kits. :)
http://leblogdecosmos.blogspot.fr/p/a-vendre.html
I've send him an email requesting 2 kits for my a500's.
-
Early SID chips need 9vac to work properly on the C64 Breadbin model. Check your voltages and amperes.
Az
-
they are all early SID chips, and I've been using the same power supply for all testing.
I have four chips total, two seems to work, two are crackly..
On another, related note, I made an XA1541 cable today, using 2N7000 mosfets from Jaycar, 60 cents each, needed four, plus a 25 pin male DB connector, already had a backshell, and I cut a spare floppy cable in half.
Well, it refused to work in Windows 7, so I pulled out an old Windows XP machine again ;)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img266/1068/20130112160657.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img837/2006/20130112160717.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img600/5848/20130112161336.jpg)
SO! any good games I should get? or even music demos? something to test the SID chips fully?
-
Here's SIDBench :)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/71121999/c64/sidbench1.d64
This page might be useful during your testing:
http://ploguechipsounds.blogspot.com.au/2010/05/one-page-basic-sid-benchmark.html
as for games, check usenet for the Blast Collection (almost 2,000 games in that collection). :D
-
Are there any demos like on the Amiga?
-
Thousands!!
-
Here's SIDBench :)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/71121999/c64/sidbench1.d64
This page might be useful during your testing:
[url]http://ploguechipsounds.blogspot.com.au/2010/05/one-page-basic-sid-benchmark.html[/url
Thanks, at least theres a sound file on there so i know what Im listening for ;)
-
Yeah it does help to know what you are listening too.
I found the CBM6581 sounds most like mine (aside from the slight pitch difference) and I use a set of monitor headphones to do the comparison as they remove a lot of external noise.
-
Btw, I found a Seller on fleabay with a nice pack of replacement BreadBin c64 Caps and Voltage regulators for $10aud delivered so I grabbed a set. :)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170858848148?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_500wt_1130
Dont forget the 4700uF, 16volt capacitor, and 5volt regulator in the power supply itself.
Unless you have a power supply that you can't open...
-
Dont forget the 4700uF, 16volt capacitor, and 5volt regulator in the power supply itself.
Unless you have a power supply that you can't open...
How hard is it to take the PSU apart and replace those parts?
-
depends if it has screws or not :p
-
Mines the black triangular one, I think you have one, are they easy to re-cap etc?
-
I have three black butter containers, and a beige one with the C= logo on the top. No triangle power supplies in my collection.
I assume the triangle can be opened, might be worth checking what capacitors it has before buying anything ;)
Probably easier replacing the cap in the power supply as its only a single sided board, so, yeah, fairly easy.
-
Your 3 black triangular ones look like mine.
-
they aren't triangular?
from what I can find there are four designs, these three, which I believe are also available in black,
(http://jope.fi/cbm/cbm/c64psu.jpg)
As well as the design I have.
I believe the middle above is completely sealed, apparently the wedge is known to overheat, and I'm not sure about the other?
-
Looks somewhat Triangular to me. :p
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/71121999/c64/2013-01-13%2017.51.19.jpg)
-
...I'm sure it does... lol
It'll have a 4700uF, 16volt capacitor in it, but there seems to be two different board/heatsink designs.
One will require you to unscrew the regulator from the heatsink, the other won't ;)
-
These are the two "bad" motherboards I'm still working on.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img51/1344/20130114170331.jpg)
The bottom board is completely dead, and I'd planned to desolder the ram from that board, and fit it to the top board...
except, the bottom board is a much higher quality PCB, the top boards bottom layer is completely delaminating, while the bottom board is in perfect condition.
So, the plan now is to desolder the PLA from the dead board, because someone decided it didn't need a socket... fit a socket, and try the PLA from the bad ram board...
fingers crossed!
-
:knuddel:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img12/9227/20130114175954.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img27/3456/20130114180024.jpg)
I was a bit worried about what I might find inside, as the back shield was very rusted... sure looks like its never been opened, or cleaned... it does however appear the keyboard is slightly bent...
(http://imageshack.us/a/img13/7899/20130114180120.jpg)
Lovely Revision 5 motherboard inside ;)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img145/7488/20130114180437.jpg)
but whats this? thats not a chinon drive... interesting ;)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img502/3700/20130114180819.jpg)
any one have any idea what this modification did?
(http://imageshack.us/a/img22/415/20130114181129.jpg)
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Ah the Epson smd-400 drive, that's a nice one and the mounting plate it uses let's you install HxC RevC's and other normal form-factor 3.5" devices! :cool:
weird mod, the Rev5 I sold didnt have that iirc. :huh:
-
My most recently acquired A500 does funny things.
I've plugged in a modified floppy drive, booted flimbos quest... then realised I needed a keyboard.
SO, powered off, booted up, went to press F1, keyboard didn't work, then I realised the power light had gone off.
So, tried again, this time while booting I watched the lights.
It appeared to be going fine, till both lights went out, then the power light seemed to become the floppy activity light.... ah?
Tried booting again, except this time both lights went off, while the activity light on the floppy drive itself remained on, but nothing booted... unplugged the keyboard, and it booted fine?
-
Swapped keyboard, same issue.
swapped odd/even CIA to opposite locations, same issue...
hmm...
-
What rev is the motherboard?
-
5
-
did you plug the keyboard in the right way? ;)
:D
Sorry couldnt resist. ;p
-
yes
-
You might have also blown the MPU on each keyboard, that is the CPU controller that A500's have on the small circuit board. Bummer if you have! Not easy to find replacements or to replace.
Az
-
You might have also blown the MPU on each keyboard, that is the CPU controller that A500's have on the small circuit board. Bummer if you have! Not easy to find replacements or to replace.
Az
I plugged the first poop keyboard (From a REV5 mobo) into my good A500, and its poop... half the keys don't work...
However, I plugged the second "poop" keyboard (REV6a) in, and it works perfectly fine...
So, it appears there is something else odd going on with this REV5 motherboard that doesn't like having a keyboard plugged in.
-
I would suggest checking voltages at the keyboard connector. Too high or too low will cause problems and might be the reason behind the original keyboard becoming faulty.
Az
-
Voltages seem to be fine, but would an unstable power supply cause the keyboard chip to crash?
I was testing this A500 with an untested power supply, but the voltages seem to measure fine too.
Also, if I plug the keyboard in with the A500 booted up, the machine resets... is this normal? Although its probably a bad idea :p
-
Yes, a bad keyboard MPU can cause reboots of the A500. The keyboard has two keymaps for reading the current key pressed, this is why half of your keyboard seems to work and the other half is faulty.
If I remember correctly the MPU is a variant of 6502, with its own ram/rom and I/O functions just for the Amiga keyboards.
Az
-
That'll do ;)
(http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/4029/20130206182700.jpg)
-
Score, does the scart do miggy RGB?
-
I don't know.... I hope so... the VGA connection doesn't do anything with the Amiga connected... :/
-
Here are the schematics if you need them:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/71121999/Amiga/SCART_cable_with_LCD_Fix_v2.png
It should work without the resistors and and caps too.
-
Nano SwanSID for the C64 arrived yesterday too... first impressions aren't great... but I'll need to listen to it through something other than TV speakers.
-
Ok, it does the Amiga 15Khz quite nicely... fantastic! also has S-Video for the C64 and Mega Drive... yay!
And VGA so I can connect it to my PC as a small second monitor (its 15inch) plus composite video for the N64....
(http://imageshack.us/a/img24/5830/20130207094558.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img826/6807/20130207094609.jpg)
But....
There's an issue....
Using the Svideo for the C64, and scart for the A500, the whole imagine is shifted up, and the top 1/4 of the screen gets cut off?
The monitor has no menu adjustments for this...
(http://imageshack.us/a/img823/9545/20130207094623.jpg)
-
turned the monitor off and on again, image came good, but its shaking? :/
edit: there's an option called "VCR" turn it on, image fills the screen, but shakes.... turn it off, clear imagine, cut off at the top.
-
looks like the s-video input isnt truly separate from the SCART input and that is the issue - just get a SCART switch box and use a couple of SCART-S-video/CVBS adapters.
(http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2005/11/23/pc_interfaces_101/scart2.jpg)
-
In PAL: High Res Laced mode, the workbench image is correctly positioned, and fills the screen nicely.
But games obviously don't run in this mode.
However, if I start up in NTSC mode, while still running the PAL workbench res, some games are correctly positioned... ZOOL for example is good... but, other games now have the bottom of the screen cut off... Flimbos Quest being one... :/
-
This monitor does the same image shift with the Sega Megadrive, connected either via composite, or svideo.
HOWEVER! much like the Amiga output being correctly centered when set to "interlaced" the sega output, when playing sonic in 2 player, is also correct...
The Sega changes resolution in 2 player mode...
(http://imageshack.us/a/img198/9130/20130211213724.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img707/46/20130211213904.jpg)
-
(http://imageshack.us/a/img543/5373/20130214083344.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img827/8638/20130214123728.jpg)
-
@AmmoJammo Very nice!!!! :-)
-
My brother and I had a "retro games" evening, while he was in Adelaide.
some games really suck! :p
-
One thing about playing old games some just don't live up to what they were when you were a kid.
You think to yourself what am I doing! :-)
But then there's a couple of games that are amazing that you never played as a kid and have just discovered :-)
One game is ruff'n'tumble... blew me away when I tried it a few months back.
-
*fingers crossed*
(http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/4098/ohnoesb.jpg)
-
I'm surprised you haven't grabbed a 1200 yet, the 600 is a waste of time IMO, commodore should have put the time and money the wasted on the 600 into the AAA project!
:)
-
I tried a 40Mhz crystal in the Mega Midget Racer today (in place of the 36Mhz)
It causes a software crash, which I thought was a bit strange, so I put an 8Mhz instead, just to see what happened, well, sysinfo reported it as being 7.09Mhz, but it benchmarked 1451 dhrystones, while a stock 68000 does about 580.
Reason for the A600, internal ide controller, composite video out with the possibility to modify it to give s-video out, up to 2 meg chip ram, 35cm wide, whereas the A500 with A590 plugged in is 60cm wide!
-
A600 makes a great A500plus replacement :-) My A1200 get's a lot of attention lately, although at the moment all the mods are hanging out the back.
I end up sitting down to mod it but end up scratching my head on how to fit it all in the case :-(
-
It's very hot here in Adelaide today so I thought I'd take some time out to get my newly aquired PCMCIA NIC working. I'm posting from my A1200 now using Ibrowse, it's working really quite well. I could even do some prouctive web tasks, my wife asked me if I could lookup an ABN no. on the web, within about 30 seconds I had the answer for her :-)
-
Nice one, Im waiting for a CF adaptor so I can install WB3.1 on my 1200 and get my Netgear Wifi card up and running! :D
-
Unfortunately, I ended up with two sets of front rotors, one for the turbo version, one for non turbo..
(http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/1672/brokes.jpg)
-
A600 appears to work, and even came with a cupcake in the trapdoor!
Although the battery had eaten halfway through the board, its not in the area that effects the memory ;)
Floppy drive works too, and it came with an A500 power supply... once again, the only model power supply I've ever seen! lol
-
Congrats on the 600, how did you end up with two sets of front rotors???
-
how did you end up with two sets of front rotors???
that's what I'd like to know...
box has the right part number on it, but the item inside was wrong.
contacted the seller, and they'll refund my money, but it was a clearance item...
"As far as getting a replacement set goes, I'll look into what's available, as these were the last of the clearance sets we had."
I wouldn't have bought any if I couldn't buy fronts and rears... :griping:
-
Man that sucks, at least you can refund it but still annoying. Don't they check before sending???
-
Man that sucks, at least you can refund it but still annoying. Don't they check before sending???
Its more annoying because I've already pulled apart a spare set of rear hubs I had, there was nothing wrong with them, but I figured I'd replace the discs on hubs that weren't in use, then just swap them onto the car...
Except, I also bought new wheel bearings to go with them, for almost $60 the pair...
I only bought the new rotors because they were on clearance special, $80, whereas the normal price was $200...
On another note, the A600's tan is a lot worse in real life than in the ebay pic I posted :hammer:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img824/2300/20130315163009.jpg)
Also, the A601 is fairly damaged, but nothing major, just the ground plane under the battery, and the track to the battery... so, I might clean it up properly, and refit a new battery... the memory works, so that's all I'm really worried about at the moment ;)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img713/3176/20130315123935.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img10/4890/20130315170647.jpg)
-
Ended up with an Accton EN2216 pcmcia network adapter, which I believe will work in the A600, $2! :p
Came with a floppy disc, and appears to be made around 1995, so its Amiga vintage anyway!
-
Been cleaning ;)
(http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/1641/20130316174127.jpg)
-
(http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/9614/20130315170258.jpg)
(http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/264/20130317151252.jpg)
-
Very nice, amazing how well Amiga's clean up :-)
Just need to track down a key and it looks almost new.
-
Just need to track down a key and it looks almost new.
got one I can have? ;) ;)
-
got one I can have? ;) ;)
LOL, not for the A600 keyboard :-/ But you can hit up my friend airey36 on ebay :-)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amiga-600-full-sets-of-keys-yellowed-clips-from-the-green-membraine-type-/310608702249?pt=UK_VintageComputing_RL&hash=item4851b8ab29
$3, not sure about shipping but shouldn't be much :-)
-
What did you clean the A600 with? Its color is very nice now
Az
-
LOL, not for the A600 keyboard :-/ But you can hit up my friend airey36 on ebay :-)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amiga-600-full-sets-of-keys-yellowed-clips-from-the-green-membraine-type-/310608702249?pt=UK_VintageComputing_RL&hash=item4851b8ab29
$3, not sure about shipping but shouldn't be much :-)
Mines got the blue membrane, so I'm not sure if those keys will fit?
What did you clean the A600 with? Its color is very nice now
Az
I'd say "retrobrite" but I'm a bit skeptical as to whether or not adding the "oxy" laundry soaker actually does anything.
The first batch I added the arrowroot, but as the hydrogen peroxide I used was actually a "creme peroxide for hair" I decided it wasn't needed, and didn't add it to the second batch, which made it a lot easier to use, without being too thin ;)
(http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/5732/20130316133104.jpg)
-
Mines got the blue membrane, so I'm not sure if those keys will fit?
I'd drop him a message via the Ebay auction he has 100's of spares lying around his house that are not listed.
He should have the blue membrane keys or be able to confirm if they will fit.
-
...I thought workbench 3.1 needed kickstart 3 as a minimum? so why does it load with KS 2.0?
-
well, I successfully killed the keyboard :/
-
...I thought workbench 3.1 needed kickstart 3 as a minimum? so why does it load with KS 2.0?
Nah will boot with lower as I've found out but it's buggy.
well, I successfully killed the keyboard :/
What did you do? :-(
-
one row of keys weren't working.
disconnected the keyboard, and realised I could cut the cable shorter to make a new connection...
but everytime I reinserted the cable, the black contacts simply "wore off" and left me with a clear cable.... ah...
cut more, peeled back some of the blue plastic, till I found some contacts that didn't just wear off... but it does nothing whatsoever now :/
-
Know that feeling well, the "Oh Sh*t" moment. Seems to happen a lot with modding Amiga's :-(
They're cursed, but for some reason I keep coming back.
If I still had my 600 I'd send it to you but sold it awhile back :-(
-
it worked when I first got it, but I pulled it all apart, cleaned the membrane, and washed the plastic frame, as well as bleaching the keys...
I guess the cable was just barely holding on...
No idea what to do now :/ lol
-
LOL Not sure either, can the connector be replaced?
Hmm, might have to be another keyboard :-(
-
its the keyboard ends that's the issue.
there is no connector.
-
Did a quick google, there's mention of peeling back the green plastic transparent tape on top as the contact is in between the two layers.
Failing that Airey has some repair kits, although doesn't mention the cable. Should be a couple of dollars for one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amiga-Keyboard-repair-kits-A600-Blue-membain-springs-clips-screws-X10-per-set-GC-/121071818566?pt=UK_VintageComputing_RL&hash=item1c30715746
-
Did a quick google, there's mention of peeling back the green plastic transparent tape on top as the contact is in between the two layers.
Failing that Airey has some repair kits, although doesn't mention the cable. Should be a couple of dollars for one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amiga-Keyboard-repair-kits-A600-Blue-membain-springs-clips-screws-X10-per-set-GC-/121071818566?pt=UK_VintageComputing_RL&hash=item1c30715746
that's what I did, and now it does nothing.
that repair kit is just springs and clips.
-
Rkauer suggess cutting it back to reveal the tracks then use liquid silver OR a combination of nail varnish and heaps of carbon powder
-
but everytime I reinserted the cable, the black contacts simply "wore off" and left me with a clear cable.... ah...
I sure hope you opened the ribbon connector's latch before you inserted the cable.
-
yes :/
-
there's still a second layer of plastic over the contacts?!? argh!
-
keyboard is going around in circles now.... :p
I lightly sanded the plastic off the cable, and slid it in and out of the connector, till all keys were working (had to wear through the remaining plastic)
Excellent!
Next day, I removed the keyboard, refitted it, half the keys don't work.... :/
So now I've painted it with the conductive silver paint, the whole thing! and while the paint was still green, I scratched a line between each contact to separate them from each other ;)
Tonight I test it!
-
(http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/4149/ks31w.jpg)
when I first received the kickstart rom stuck in foam, I emailed the seller and said:
foam isn't an acceptable packing material for static sensitive ICs unless the foam is first wrapped in aluminium foil.
to which he responded:
Thanks for let me know useful information about foam need to be wrapped in aluminium foil.
I ordered a second kickstart from the same seller (for the A600) and today, I received this...
(http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/5200/89359210152704325450217.jpg)
:destroy:
-
Seller fail!
:smack:
-
You're making me worried now. Received a MOS 6581 SID the other week and it was stuck in foam. Hope it still works. If I had a C64 I could easily test it...
-
Sid chips fail for no apparent reason, so even if it doesn't work you wont know if it was because of the foam :p
-
Sid chips fail for no apparent reason
Thank you, I feel much better now:nervous:
-
yup, 8meg, and the 512k trapdoor is now set up as chip ram :)
so, 1 meg chip, 8 meg fast.
(http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/1896/20120620114244.jpg)
Hi,
NICE!!!
I like, and that ain't no mac there. Thats a real Amiga.
smerf
-
Picked up this lot for the grand total of $Au50!
Two A500 consoles, both revision 6 motherboards, one faulty. :(
A590, with 40meg HDD and 1meg fast ram!
A501 ram in the trapdoor
External floppy
1084s monitor
Two tank mice
Four joysticks
Plus a fair bit of original software! and some less than original :p
Took out the images don't think we really need them again, nice unit, sort of looks like my bench when I get to working. Still have a CD 32 to set up and 5 CD 32 motherboards to check out. Just picked up a A4000 and A3000 that don't work, a friend was throwing them in the trash, so I got them to see if I can make them work, and if I can't I will use them for spare parts for my Amiga's.
AmmoJammo keep it rolling, I have taught several times of getting rid of my Amiga's but then there would be no fun left in life, couldn't come to Amiga.org, to have fun with the moderators. Right Karlos (heck I really like him, if I didn't I wouldn't troll him)
but then again he is good at ignoring me.
Anyhow keep on rocking, with that Amiga 500, looks good from here.
smerf
-
Know that feeling well, the "Oh Sh*t" moment. Seems to happen a lot with modding Amiga's :-(
They're cursed, but for some reason I keep coming back.
If I still had my 600 I'd send it to you but sold it awhile back :-(
Hi,
@Lurch,
Hey how did you blow up an Amiga, I only lost one, an A500, I was playing Sim Ant on it when it decided to smoke and burn, and I mean real flames. Remember in an incident like that don't panic, pull the plug as quickly as possible, and yell "Oh Sheet, Oh Sheet" as loud as you can.
smerf
-
Hi,
@Lurch,
Hey how did you blow up an Amiga, I only lost one, an A500, I was playing Sim Ant on it when it decided to smoke and burn, and I mean real flames. Remember in an incident like that don't panic, pull the plug as quickly as possible, and yell "Oh Sheet, Oh Sheet" as loud as you can.
smerf
I bought a side car addon for my old Rev 6 500, can't remember what it was now. Connected it all up, powered on the 500, got the instant smell of burning and then smoke and quickly pulled the power and sat there for awhile not sure what to do LOL.
Tried powering it up again without the side car but no joy she was dead :-(
-
LOL been there done that!
toasted a rev5 mobo, at the time it was my only Amiga :(
Az
-
I forgot these pics.
I've decided 22-24 degree day, in direct sunlight is good!
(http://imageshack.us/a/img194/6585/20130317113710.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img829/622/20130317113717.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img221/1578/20130317113722.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img16/9756/20130317113737.jpg)
-
(http://imageshack.us/a/img853/4031/imgp2422h.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img441/183/imgp2423l.jpg)
-
What have you been up to mate?
-
The last pics? its an svideo output on the A600.
I thought you would have seen the thread on amibay? ;)
-
Nice, clearly I missed it. :p
-
Why people keep posting pics with size that destroys the thread viewing?
-
Why people keep posting pics with size that destroys the thread viewing?
unfortunately Amiga.org doesnt have the auto resize widget that AmiBay has. :9
-
Sid chips fail for no apparent reason, so even if it doesn't work you wont know if it was because of the foam :p
I have 37 C64s and not one SID has failed for no reason
-
Why have they failed then?
-
Usually a faulty 12vac source kills SID
Az
-
Usually a faulty 12vac source kills SID
Az
did you mean
9v ac?
or 12v dc?
or the unregulated "9 volts ac"?
-
Been pulling apart the power supply that came with the A600, its an A500 PSU.
Not the point, buy for my own reference, it uses a L296 switchmode regulator for the +5volts (rated at 4amps) and a L4960 for the +12volts (rated at 2.5amps)
-12volts uses a 7912 regulator, apparently on a separate winding on the transformer, with its own rectifier diodes....
-
IDEfix97 wouldn't install on the real amiga, would just hang.
So I installed it with winuae, then the A600 wouldn't even boot?! black screen, nothing much else?
So, I uninstalled it using winuae, and now it boots again? :/
-
I wouldn't use that, it's not compatible with cf cards!
-
what would you use?
-
have a read of this:
http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=61666
-
I ended up with AmiCDFS 2.4, with the atapi.device driver from IDEFIX97. Edited the CD0 file in the dosdrivers folder (from memory?) to use the different driver, and set the device number to 0.
CD rom drive and compact flash now work! CF is slave, CD is master.
But the issue is, it doesn't display names properly? whats going on here? these CDs work in the A500.... is it a limitation of the atapi driver that I should have known about? :P
(http://imageshack.us/a/img641/6921/imgp2443f.jpg)
Amiga T-Z, not the DF0, thats "broken" because the drive has no power.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img593/5659/imgp2445n.jpg)
Is this like a "dos" limitation or something?
(http://imageshack.us/a/img109/9387/imgp2447e.jpg)
-
fat 16 file system? It uses the 8.3 characters per name/folder/directory
check you formated file system
Az
-
its a cd? what file system should I be looking at/checking?
file names are correct on the Amiga 500, and the PC.
-
I'd say "retrobrite" but I'm a bit skeptical as to whether or not adding the "oxy" laundry soaker actually does anything.
If I got the time, I will try retrobrite during the weekend. I see in a previous post (http://www.amiga.org/forums/showpost.php?p=729490&postcount=400) that you used White Kings Oxy Lift. I have White King Oxy Lift Booster at home. Will it work fine? And what ratio of oxy and creme peroxide to use? Thanks.
-
I dont think the Oxy Lift did anything.
whether it was because it didn't have the right ingredients, or because it simply has no effect on the bleach anyway.
-
So I should just test with pure peroxide? And how many hours do you recommend?
Sorry for all these questions. I've never done it before and I like to get advice from someone who manage to get it to work.
-
because its a creme peroxide, it doesn't seem to dry out very badly.
I left it for 2 hours at a time, in direct sunlight, on about a 22 degree day ;)
I checked it after an hour, and reapplied the peroxide if I thought it was needed.
then, after 2 hours, I washed it all off, and reapplied the peroxide, and left it in the sun again.
did this 3 or 4 times total.
-
So the flour stuff isnt needed either?
-
I ended up with AmiCDFS 2.4, with the atapi.device driver from IDEFIX97. Edited the CD0 file in the dosdrivers folder (from memory?) to use the different driver, and set the device number to 0.
CD rom drive and compact flash now work! CF is slave, CD is master.
But the issue is, it doesn't display names properly? whats going on here? these CDs work in the A500.... is it a limitation of the atapi driver that I should have known about? :P
Are you using the standard CD0 file that is included with Workbench 3.1? If so, you should use the mount file that's included with AmiCDFS instead. Try this to see how it goes.
-
Replied to your help here, as I started another thread to directly address the issue, thanks!
http://www.amiga.org/forums/showthread.php?t=64604
-
Thanks for the advice for the peroxide! I might pick up a bottle tonight and the forecast looks promising for Sunday. I will try the top of the A1000 keyboard. It's really yellow!
-
Thanks for the advice for the peroxide! I might pick up a bottle tonight and the forecast looks promising for Sunday. I will try the top of the A1000 keyboard. It's really yellow!
How did it go? ;)
-
scart!
I need a house... :cry:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img43/9326/imgp2496j.jpg)
-
How did it go? ;)
Sorry, not my intention to ignore you. I completely missed your post! I've applied the peroxide two or three times now and it does look much better. Still some yellow here and there but I have to say it's OK.
Btw, where did you find a TV with SCART in Australia? Thought SCART was pretty much unheard of here.
-
Btw, where did you find a TV with SCART in Australia? Thought SCART was pretty much unheard of here.
Not wrong, they are very rare here except for a small number of premium euro brands like Lowe, Grundig etc.
-
This is the second tv i have bought with a scart input. First was a cheap 15inch sonique or some crap :p
-
And as to where I found it...
Gumtree!
Paid $40, has no stand or remote... and it was a massive stuff around organising a time to collect, and even collecting it! :/
Its perfect though.
PS2 - YpBpr
Sega - SCART
Amiga - SCART
C64 - Svideo
PC - DVI
Set top box - VGA!
-
SCART, if it's RGB, is better than the composite I'm stuck with now. Wish I had a RGB SCART on my TV. My Amiga deserves better...
-
SCART, if it's RGB, is better than the composite I'm stuck with now. Wish I had a RGB SCART on my TV. My Amiga deserves better...
Some comparison pics..
http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=42849
Have you considered RGB to YpBpR?
-
Not wrong, they are very rare here except for a small number of premium euro brands like Lowe, Grundig etc.
Grundig is a premium brand in Australia?!
They're not in the UK!
-
Grundig is a premium brand in Australia?!
They're not in the UK!
Surely they're higher end than Soniq? :p
-
Have you considered RGB to YpBpR?
Well, I was planning to go VGA but those converters seem a bit expensive and unreliable. Maybe component is better if I will use my TV.
Found this on The Bay. The english is a bit funny but I belive it's a RGB SCART to YPbPr and S-Video:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Scart-RGB-yPbPr-Connector-SVideoYCBCR-S-Adapter-21-pin-Converter-/190659225564
Better english in this ad but more expensive including shipping:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RGB-SCART-to-Composite-COMPONENT-VIDEO-AV-TV-ADAPTER-HD-/220833672632?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item336ab66db8
I have a couple of DB23 and if I can just get a female SCART shell I can make my own cable and plug in into this converter. Or maybe I replace the SCART header in the coverter? Thanks for the idea! Seems like a good project=)
-
ah, more like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221156873851
But based on the fact you consider the $40 GBS to be expensive, you're probably better off sticking with composite... :p ;)
-
Well, it depends on the increase in quaility over composite. That unit you posted sounds pretty cool, doing scaling and all that. Do you have one of those?
Or I can just buy a new TV with RGB SCART. I think it's about time soon anyway=D
-
Grundig is a premium brand in Australia?!
They're not in the UK!
yep, premium as in a product marketed to euro-snobs at over-inflated prices ... like BMW and Mercedes, B&O etc.
It's an Aussie syndrome that afflicts ppl with too much money. :crazy:
-
Well, it depends on the increase in quaility over composite. That unit you posted sounds pretty cool, doing scaling and all that. Do you have one of those?
Or I can just buy a new TV with RGB SCART. I think it's about time soon anyway=D
I ordered one to see what its like, in theory, it should be as good as scart RGB. That advert doesn't say anything about scaling?
Problem with buying a tv with scart, is finding one!
Check your local gumtree, I reckon there's 2 or 3 low spec ones available for about $150 ;)
-
I ordered one to see what its like, in theory, it should be as good as scart RGB.
Don't know where I got the scaling from. Must have misread scart for scale...
You will have a loss of quality since it is a conversion from one analogue format to another. But it doesn't mean you will notice it. It's all about maintaining a good SNR. Keep us updated and let us know when you have received it and played with it. In the mean time, I might start looking for a db23 to scart cable.
-
I got my Amiga-scart cable from amigakit and it produces very good results.
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I got my Amiga-scart cable from amigakit and it produces very good results.
I will look it up. Even if the price is good I belive the shipping cost can be quite high.
Btw, haven't you noticed that people say "It's European" or European standard" when they mean something is of good quality?
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Btw, haven't you noticed that people say "It's European" or European standard" when they mean something is of good quality?
People assume that if something is made in Europe it's good quality. In the case of somethings yes, but most cases it's like the word gourmet.
Stick the word in front of something to justify increasing the price 10 fold.
I've owned a European card, a 2000 Volkswagon Bora V5 (Jetta). The engine faultless, the electronics are different story failure after failure.
Engine sensors, and there's a lot of them fail. The engine could be 100% fine but if just one of these goes tough.
The three I had to replace, $500 NZD each.
Then theres a list of known faults on the VW forums, boot latch/electric windows/interior trim/roof lining/external paint/glove box latch and more.
Had the roof lining coming off, the apiller cloth coming off, the wooden trim for the drivers door fell off. Glove box latch broken... clear coat on roof failing, rear window not winding up...
But after all that I still miss the sound of the door shutting and the heated leather seats.
Would I buy another one, if I can afford a brand new one yes. Second hand no. In New Zealand parts are extremely pricey. Mention European and people tend to charge more when the work is the same and the parts can be bought/imported cheaply.
So back to a nice Japanese built car ;-)
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Same here, im a Mazda man and have a 2010 6 wagon & the last of the Astina's from 2002 - brilliant cars to drive and never have faults + servicing is dramatically cheaper than the European cars!
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I'm not going to walk down VW but it seems that in Australia it is considered a up-market brand. It seems that all European cars are considered top of the top. In Europe VW seems to be a mid-range brand. Not in the same league as Audi or Volvo. My two cents.
It is expensive to service European cars. We have a VW polo and I almost choked when I got the invoice for the last service. It is a fairly reliable car but we have had some issues but they have been fixed. Next car might be a Japanese one, probably Subaru or Mazda.
It's too much electronics in the cars nowdays. Not like when I was a learner. You still could do maintenance on the car. Now, you almost have to take the car to a workshop just to change a light...
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Would have to say with a European car you need to find a mechanic who is from Europe. Then servicing and parts are a similar price to Japanese cars.
Found a great mechanic but he was a good hour away so not suitable long term.
Would buy in the following order, although Hyundai is starting to creep in there.
Toyota -> Nissan -> Honda -> Mazda.
Just need to look at what cars are bought for fleets. Hyundai and Toyota are fairly common.
Agreed, it's more computer than engine under the bonet. Wouldn't know where to begin :-/
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I think 3m RGB SCART cable would be enough. Or maybe invest in a 4.8m if I'm going to buy one anyway. But that's 1.8m extra of noise... Is any of the regional Amigakit better than then others when it comes to shipping cost and shipping time to Australia?
Toyota is a really reliable car and service cost is not too bad what I've heard. Problem is I think Toyota is a bit boring. But I guess you have to compromise. Do you want a 'fun' car or a reliable car? I would go for reliability if I had to choose. Of couse fun AND reliable would be best=) I did rent a Camry almost half a year ago and I have to say I enjoyed driving that one!
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I think 3m RGB SCART cable would be enough. Or maybe invest in a 4.8m if I'm going to buy one anyway. But that's 1.8m extra of noise... Is any of the regional Amigakit better than then others when it comes to shipping cost and shipping time to Australia?
All the same guys ;-) I highly Recommend Amigakit.
Toyota is a really reliable car and service cost is not too bad what I've heard. Problem is I think Toyota is a bit boring. But I guess you have to compromise. Do you want a 'fun' car or a reliable car? I would go for reliability if I had to choose. Of couse fun AND reliable would be best=) I did rent a Camry almost half a year ago and I have to say I enjoyed driving that one!
Would agree that your humble Corolla is boring. But Toyota have some very reliable fun cars to drive. The original MR2 AW11, designed by lotus. Awesome car (Miss mine). The Celica GT4, the Supra (droool) and the latest one that I wish I had the money to buy is the Toyota Corolla Blade, the 2.5 Litre V6 Master-G model :-)
http://www.carandsuv.co.nz/articles/toyota-blade-master-g-2007-%E2%80%93-road-test
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Aristo! :p
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Aristo! :p
Man, how could I forget the Aristo :-) Not too shabby looking to, always liked them in black and those tail lights awesome.
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Also got the Blades CC rating wrong the Master-G is a 3456 cc V6 @ 276bhp :-) In a small Corolla body :-)
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Would buy in the following order, although Hyundai is starting to creep in there.
Toyota -> Nissan -> Honda -> Mazda.
I'd have to disagree with your order there, there is a reason why Mazda is the leading 100% imported brand in Australia, it's because their cars are high quality, have everything that opens and shuts and they are priced well.
Toyota produce the occasional nice sports car but the rest of their catalogue is boring as and their styling is a bit naff too (new corrolla exempted). their biggest sin is low entry level pricing that includes next to no niceties and if you want those extras you have to hand over more cash for the next model up.
Back in 2002 when I was shopping for my first ever new car it came down to the 323 Astina and Corrolla - the corrolla was technically inferior in every dept except engine power (extra 5kW's), it had a torsion beam rear end, cable-link clutch, cable-link manual gear shift and very lazy gearing + if you wanted power rear windows you had to buy the mid range model as you could only get power fronts on the base model.
Compare that with the Mazda 323 Astina which had a hydraulic clutch, mechanical-link gear shifter and fully independent multi-link rear end and both were almost identically priced. I bought the Astina and was able to option it up with power everything, 6 cd-changer, cruise control and alloy wheels for the same price as the mid-range corrolla and got a better car for my money.
these days Mazda is still my #1 pref (just bought a late '10 6 Wagon still under new car warranty) but i'd buy a new Hyundai before i'd buy a Toyota now - they look great, handle well, are priced well and reliability is now excellent.
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ah, more like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221156873851
*Bump* Have you received the coverter? I'm curious to hear your verdict. If the quality is good I might buy one as well. I have ordered a SCART cable from Amigakit so that's the first step. This is just as a complement if using the Amiga in the lounge with the TV. In my study I have a 1070 monitor which works fine.
I like this car discussion! So if I have a budget of up to AU$7000 to spend on a second hand car, what would you suggest to be a decent buy? It has to have a manual gearbox! And air condition.
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Hasn't arrived yet, might email them this weekend and see how long delivery normally takes, as it has been nearly 3 weeks ;)
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Hasn't arrived yet, might email them this weekend and see how long delivery normally takes, as it has been nearly 3 weeks ;)
Seems that I'm more impatient than you. And I haven't even ordered it:lol:
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(http://imageshack.us/a/img90/2118/n2i.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img51/1936/qchs.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img153/6250/tgh6.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img547/5449/p4of.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img818/4500/uddc.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img703/1303/8kj4.jpg)
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Wow that some serious porting!!!
If you buy your own house you could install infinite baffle subs instead! :D
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This was made for a friend, and sold for a small profit ;)
I normally don't do subwoofer boxes for other people, but the port kerf was something I hadn't tried before so decided I'd give it a go.
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Did you bond multiple layers of mdf together then cut it into the curve?
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Multiple cuts 90% of the way through the mdf, then bend it ;)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img441/1799/20130610135318.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img259/7539/20130610135307.jpg)
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Wow, that's a neat solution!
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:(
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I'd have to disagree with your order there
Agree to disagree on this one? I'd also like to add Hyundai in the mix as another up and coming car to watch. Sure they're boring but very reliable, just need to see what fleet buying is picking up.
I also found the Mazda 6 wagon to be gas thirsty compared to my Stagea and slower. At the end of the day Japanese are very reliable even when they're 10 years old.
European cars have a better build and feel, but after that 5 year mark things start to go horribly wrong.
I've owned both so this is going by my experience. If someone suggests I should try a golf/Jetta. Been there and not wanting to go back.
Do love the paint finish and the clunk of the door shutting. The interior usually feels better too... but in the long run not worth the hassle :-)
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The RGB scart to YUV adapter arrived.... then I couldn't find the scart cable :(
Anyhoo! pics should follow soon.... this tv has some interesting results, but once again, I need it to compare scart to yuv, and svideo ;)
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The RGB scart to YUV adapter arrived.... then I couldn't find the scart cable :(
Anyhoo! pics should follow soon.... this tv has some interesting results, but once again, I need it to compare scart to yuv, and svideo ;)
Ok so we need to know the following:
A/ does it convert 15khz
B/ does it stretch 4:3 to 16:9 (hate converters that do this)
C/ does it handle high-res laced modes like those produced by the raw controller speed test program
D/ does it soften moving objects or backgrounds
E/ does it display fine patterns properly
That should do for now :D
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The conversion from RGB scart to yuv/ypbpr is a fairly simple addition/subtraction, and not much more.
I dont think it does anything with the sync signal, as the ypbpr will accept the 15Khz, but it may modify it slightly, to make it more compatible with more TVs ;)
It doesn't stretch the image, the tv does, same as if you were to connect scart, or the GBS, directly to the TV.
I'll have more of a fiddle with it over the weekend.
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This TV seems to not photograph well.... I started off with a DSLR, but had to switch back to some crappy camera to get an ok pic....
1. http://imageshack.us/a/img17/1816/x6tb.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img17/1816/x6tb.jpg)
2. http://imageshack.us/a/img109/6030/m4d1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img109/6030/m4d1.jpg)
3. http://imageshack.us/a/img109/4438/4kvm.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img109/4438/4kvm.jpg)
1. http://imageshack.us/a/img62/4609/4utz.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img62/4609/4utz.jpg)
2. http://imageshack.us/a/img844/7072/rqoq.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img844/7072/rqoq.jpg)
3. http://imageshack.us/a/img560/9003/dyjh.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img560/9003/dyjh.jpg)
guess which is which? ;)
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1= gbs82xx
3= rgb-yuv
2= svideo
?
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options are actually YUV, Scart RGB, Svideo ;)
Should have plugged the GBS in, but this wasn't my proper testing just yet anyway...
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Ok so which is which?
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If you guess right, I'll tell you its right :D
Maybe I should plug the GBS in and find some new camera batteries...
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Bit of YUV, GBS, svideo ;)
not resized this time.... but, I dont think it looks any better...
The GBS actually seems to look somewhat better on this TV ;)
All my cables are very low quality though.
1. http://imageshack.us/a/img5/1278/6rcj.jpg
2. http://imageshack.us/a/img42/1039/fkzv.jpg
3. http://imageshack.us/a/img27/6322/y7hp.jpg
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Seems like a good improvement over composite! Now where is that eBay link....
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Bit of YUV, GBS, svideo ;)
not resized this time.... but, I dont think it looks any better...
The GBS actually seems to look somewhat better on this TV ;)
All my cables are very low quality though.
1. http://imageshack.us/a/img5/1278/6rcj.jpg
2. http://imageshack.us/a/img42/1039/fkzv.jpg
3. http://imageshack.us/a/img27/6322/y7hp.jpg
ok imo the GBS is number 3 (banding is the giveaway) and there seems to be slightly more colour info in number 1 so im calling that YUV and number 2 is s-video which still looks quite good too.
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1. Svideo
2. YUV
3. GBS
However, as I said, this tv doesn't photograph well.
YUV is slightly better than the svideo.... but using scart rgb directly connected to the tv actually gave the worst picture... (not including the gbs) :p
the scart to yuv adapter also has the ability to adjust all the colours, and contrast, I spent about 10 seconds fiddling, so I'm sure you could get it better ;)
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Nice, what about the stretch, does it leave 4:3 alone or does it stretch to 16:9 to annoy us aspect ratio purists?
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The tv scales it.
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The tv scales it.
I'm not sure if you understand the question correctly, is the yuv converter outputting the 4:3 video in a 4:3 frame or does it stretch the content into a 16:9 frame?
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I'm not sure if you understand the question correctly, is the yuv converter outputting the 4:3 video in a 4:3 frame or does it stretch the content into a 16:9 frame?
Why would the YUV converter stretch it? If it is it's a piece of junk and should be replaced with an Indivision (haha, yes, my biased opinion), but in any case nearly any good TV has an option to stretch 4:3 to 16:9 or not. It's an option in the menu on the TV. Same thing, if your TV doesn't have that option junk it for a better model. Heh. ;)
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The tv stretches it.
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The device outputs what is being input. It doesn't change the resolution or the aspect ratio. It Dmdpmt stretch or scale the image, the tv does!
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The tv stretches it.
So the TV is telling you it's receiving 576i (or 576p) non-anamorphic 4:3?
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Why would the YUV converter stretch it? If it is it's a piece of junk and should be replaced with an Indivision (haha, yes, my biased opinion), but in any case nearly any good TV has an option to stretch 4:3 to 16:9 or not. It's an option in the menu on the TV. Same thing, if your TV doesn't have that option junk it for a better model. Heh. ;)
If its a scaler too then it might stretch it to fill a 16:9 frame like the rgb-Hdmi converter does - it slightly more relevant to the 720p/1080i/p modes as they are native 16:9 modes.
SD resolutions, 480/576, are normally 4:3 but DVDs and Sdtv use a trick called anamorphic mode to produce a 16:9 picture from a 4:3 resolution and there is a flag in the Component video standard to automatically detect anamorphic mode and auto stretch the content to 16:9 if its present.
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The yuv input will always be stretched to full screen. You can plug a composite signal into the green connector and the tv will still scale it to full screen.
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Very nice a500 there super clean! DO NOT DO NOT PUT IT IN A TOWER. The whole point is original.
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The yuv input will always be stretched to full screen. You can plug a composite signal into the green connector and the tv will still scale it to full screen.
Well I've now bought one to have a play. :)
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This one was it?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221156873851?clk_rvr_id=496218061615
You mentioned that you could adjust contrast and colours. But where are the dials for that? I can't see anything on the photo...
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This one was it?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221156873851?clk_rvr_id=496218061615
That's the one I've ordered and I think that's the one AJ linked to.
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Inside ;)
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Inside ;)
Ah, that explains why I can't see any knobs on the photos.
I just ordered one:)
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(http://imageshack.us/a/img33/594/gu2u.jpg)
If you have multiple Amigas, Sega Mega Drives, Master Systems, or Super Nintendo consoles, (or others I'm sure) that have what is basically a scart rgb output, it makes sense to get one of these so you can get the best possible picture on a modern tv ;)
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So have you tried a 15khz video source with it on a TV that doesn't support native 15khz RGB?
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As you are probably aware of, I made up a circuit that was basically the same as this device, and it worked on two other tvs that didn't accept 15Khz.
In fact, this TV with the scart input won't accept the Amiga input on the vga connector either...
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As you are probably aware of, I made up a circuit that was basically the same as this device, and it worked on two other tvs that didn't accept 15Khz.
In fact, this TV with the scart input won't accept the Amiga input on the vga connector either...
Good stuff :)
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I got my SCART to Component converter the other day and I already got my SCART cable from AmigaKit. Today I finally got the chance to test it! All I got on the TV was a message saying Invalid Format. That was a letdown! Question: Did you experience anything like this? And what kind of format does it actually output?
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I got my SCART to Component converter the other day and I already got my SCART cable from AmigaKit. Today I finally got the chance to test it! All I got on the TV was a message saying Invalid Format. That was a letdown! Question: Did you experience anything like this? And what kind of format does it actually output?
I got mine the other day too, It doesnt work on my 22" Samsung AV Monitor but it does work on my 32" Sony Bravia TV - looks bloody brilliant too.
My TV shows it as 576i being input and even RSCP works perfectly (High-Res Laced mode).
:cool:
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Quoted from another thread, on another forum:
"The issue some TVs have is with the sync signal being the wrong type. YPbPr video should have a Tri-level sync signal, the Amiga outputs a normal bi-level sync. Some TVs will cope fine, others will not, it all depends on the analog front end of the TV.
With some creative circuitry you could create a tri-level sync from the Amiga, that should help."
The three (make that four)TV's I'd tested all worked with this format of YUV signal.... I guess its a bit hit and miss...
I suppose someone needs to figure this circuit out.... :p
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Im quite happy with my Amiga Setup's now - I bought a nice new LG 24" IPS LCD display for my Mac Mini and moved my Samsung 22" AV LCD to my a1200 combined with the RGB-HDMI converter. The RGB-YUV converter is now on my Sony 32" LCD TV for use with my a500 - now I just need a 2nd Amiga-SCART cable which AmigaKit advise they shipped today. :)
Oh and I also binned my old el-cheapo Technics amp and replaced it with a nice little class D "muse" amp to drive my Krix bookshelf speakers - both my Amiga 1200 and Mac mini sound sensational now! :D
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Btw, here is what the SCART-HDMI adapter @ 720p looks like on my 22" Samsung - Desktop is 256 Colours:
Luckily my Samsung allows me to for force HD resolutions to 4:3. :)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71121999/Amiga/Amiga%20SCART-HDMI%20Converter/2013-07-15%2014.56.22.jpg)
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I tried to get the faulty A500 keyboard working...
Swapped out the controller board... half the keys don't work?
I dont remember if that was the original issue, as I didn't want to test it with the possibly faulty controller, as this motherboard also had a bad CIA chip, which I'd already swapped....
Hmm...
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Now to figure out how to hold it there... other than double sided tape :p
(http://imageshack.us/a/img801/9127/u7xn.jpg)
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Hot glue?
Is that an a600?
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Yes that's the A600.
Ah, hot glue would be about as good as double sided tape :p
Might try to figure out what plastic the case is, and find some suitable glue, so I can use the bits I cut out to make brackets, as I really need the drive removable, as the keyboard can't come out unless the drive it out ;)
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Good idea, looks really good tho mate, how have you connected it up?
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Master and slave connected to the internal ide header ;)
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Nice
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Mmmm.. melted plastic! :p
(http://imageshack.us/a/img22/2522/tqy4.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img153/6474/d8cz.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img849/1016/d9eg.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img839/3001/em8a.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img703/5396/ija3.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img546/7937/xntj.jpg)
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Very nice work mate! :)
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Looks good!
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Well, this drive doesn't work on the Amiga...
I had originally planned to use a slot load drive, but stuffed the cutout just for the slot, so went to the tray load instead (which cost all of $13 from memory)
However, I had been booting with the CF as slave, and the DVD as cable select, which made it a master....
This new drive doesn't work like that, and I've now cut the wire on the IDE cable to set it to slave, and it still doens't work...
However, the previously drive doesn't seem to work as slave either..... argh :/
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Bugger!
At least most laptop drives are that size/shape so finding a working replacement shouldn't be too hard.
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Find a nice beige one if able... yeah some laptop p-ide drives are flakey when added to a shared cable. Did you try both IDE ports as cable select?
Az
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I myself have had a hard time trying to find a beige one :/ But it looks good, keep up the good work Ammo Jammo.
Myself am working on a external DVD-drive (in a 5.25" case) for my A1200, not as nice as internal maybe but an external PATA connection will help file transfers when the PCMCIA slot is occupied :)
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Well, this drive doesn't work on the Amiga...
I had originally planned to use a slot load drive, but stuffed the cutout just for the slot, so went to the tray load instead (which cost all of $13 from memory)
However, I had been booting with the CF as slave, and the DVD as cable select, which made it a master....
This new drive doesn't work like that, and I've now cut the wire on the IDE cable to set it to slave, and it still doens't work...
However, the previously drive doesn't seem to work as slave either..... argh :/
These work well on stock ide of most amiga's i have tried them on. Cd only of course:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-TEAC-CD-ROM-CD-224E-A33-1977047A-33-5064-7967-/300951971500?pt=US_CD_DVD_Blu_Ray_Drives&hash=item461222a6ac
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I think I "twiddled" something months ago when I was playing with the settings, as I can't get any optical drive to work :p
Thanks for the link!
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The slot load Panasonic drive, with the CF card set to "slave" and I can find them both...
Disconnect the wire to pin 28, which should set the dvd drive to slave (if it was cable select) and set the CF to master, and I get checksum errors when workbench tries to load...
I have to assume this drive is internally set to master, not cable select...
However, the new, tray load HP drive, doesn't seem to let workbench boot no matter the jumper settings....
:/ and workbench is all messy from various IDE CD software being installed, setup, and messed up :p
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Bought myself a 24 inch Dell 2405FPW today! Should support the Amigas native 15Khz sync frequency, plus it has composite, component, and svideo inputs for all my old gaming goodness!
Haven't actually bothered trying it with the Amiga yet though, I just hung it all my wall and am using it now...
Its a pretty old monitor, but I figured for $70 it was worth the money.
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Bought myself a 24 inch Dell 2405FPW today! Should support the Amigas native 15Khz sync frequency, plus it has composite, component, and svideo inputs for all my old gaming goodness!
Haven't actually bothered trying it with the Amiga yet though, I just hung it all my wall and am using it now...
Its a pretty old monitor, but I figured for $70 it was worth the money.
Good find! I bought one of these new around 2006, still using it today and it still looks great! One of my better purchases. Sadly it won't display 15khz in VGA mode even though it will display it via composite/svideo! :(
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Don't say that! :p
I'll have to plug in my Sega Mega Drive (via rgb), and see what happens...