1080 vs 1084

[CLS2086]

Got a RARE 1081 and 1084S-P here in this 50 Hz RGB country.

Both support very well 50 and 60 Hz modes on the fly.

The 1081 is far supperior to the 1084S-P (even if they look like 2 twins).

But I got B&W when I put my Toshiba HDDVD player (composite out) on the 1081 with HDDVD(60Hz so NTSC...) and color with PAL DVD (50 Hz)...

Both well setted, I don't see crop like a tweaked "MonoFrequency" monitor.

[AmigaPixel]

I never had a 1084 but I had 3 1080s and they lasted 20 years before they died. I doubt these new HDTVs  or flat screen pc monitors will last that long.They built them to last back then. I know the 1080 was made in Japan, but were the 1084s made in japan too?

[icbrkr]

I have 2 1080s here (and a couple of 1084s as well) and noticed the other day that one of the 1080s that I had will not do PAL at all.  If I feed it a PAL signal, it just rolls like if you fed a normal NTSC television a PAL signal.  This is the first time I've come across it during my 20+ years of using Amiga monitors.  Like the other posters, I had always assumed that all 1080s could do PAL/NTSC.

[save2600]

Dumb question, but did you try adjusting the vertical hold adjustment in the front? The image will sit up a little higher than an NTSC image, but it'll still be plenty viewable.

If the v.hold doesn't do the trick, your model may or may not have a tiny/chinsey (easily breakable) v.sync pot inside the case, which takes an alan wrench to adjust the lead based coil. If not, it's a regular trim pot that takes a very small slotted screwdriver. Either way, should straighten it out if the v.hold fails you.

@AmigaPixel:

The later 1084's were made in Korea, Malaysia and maybe even Mexico.

@mr_A500:

I opened up my beloved 1080 this morning and performed a couple of internal adjustments. I am now able to view both PAL & NTSC within a tolerance that's pretty darn close to each other (although not perfect). Still have to adjust the v.hold between switches, but the cropping is NOT as severe as before. Thanks for the info and giving me an excuse to get yet another Amiga project done!

[CLS2086]

Take time to replace all caps, and it will live much more longer !

I still wonder why so many here don't repair their monitors ? :-o

[taunusand]

CLS2086 wrote:
Take time to replace all caps, and it will live much more longer !

I still wonder why so many here don't repair their monitors ? :-o

Me too.
A few years ago I even fixed my old 14" TV, it still works 15+  years :-)
(14" tv used in my bedroom, 32" in the living room ;-) )

[orb85750]

AmigaPixel wrote:

I never had a 1084 but I had 3 1080s and they lasted 20 years before they died. I doubt these new HDTVs  or flat screen pc monitors will last that long.They built them to last back then. I know the 1080 was made in Japan, but were the 1084s made in japan too?

My 1084S was made in Korea.  So far, it has been very solid.  But I had another 1084 die on me not too long ago.

(Hey, I see you're in Tucson.  I used to live there too -- that's the origin of the 5 digits in my username)

-Dave

[barney]

My 1084 was made in Taiwan and my 2 1080's were made in Japan.  The funny thing about the 1080's is that they don't just die instantaneously.  They slowly start to get a purple hue discoloration in the bottom right corner of the screen.  Over time, it spreads until the screen gets too ugly to bear.  I just donate them to Goodwill at that point.

Barney

[Iggy_Drougge]

I don't recognise the aspect ratio problems of our American friends at all. Whenever I've used a 1084 or 8833, the screen has been filled both in 50 and 60 Hz modes. The monitor resyncs when you switch modes. Is this some 1080 specific problem or something specific to American 1084 monitors?

[AmigaPixel]

barney wrote:
My 1084 was made in Taiwan and my 2 1080's were made in Japan.  The funny thing about the 1080's is that they don't just die instantaneously.  They slowly start to get a purple hue discoloration in the bottom right corner of the screen.  Over time, it spreads until the screen gets too ugly to bear.  I just donate them to Goodwill at that point.

Barney

That's funny one of mine started turn green, while the other more purple. :-)

[AmigaPixel]

 @orb85750

 Hey how long ago did you live here? Did you ever attend the Amiga group meetings?

Scott

[bison]

I much prefer the 1080.  Most of them seem to have better contrast and convergence than the 1084.  And the 1084 looks kind of cheap, with that blue Commodore logo painted on.  The 1080 has a proper logo that matches the A1000/500/2000.

I spent most of 1987 hoping that the 1084 was a temporary situation, but alas, it was not.  I'm still waiting for my 2080.  Two more weeks...

[orb85750]

The 1084 has multiple models and the cases look very different.  I think the most common variety is the cheap-looking one to which you refer.  My 1084S-D1 looks better, IMO, but it suffers from the same "can't keep the front door shut" syndrome.  One of these days I'm going to fix it with a little velcro on the inside of the door.

[barney]

The 1084 has multiple models and the cases look very different.  I think the most common variety is the cheap-looking one to which you refer.  My 1084S-D1 looks better, IMO, but it suffers from the same "can't keep the front door shut" syndrome.  One of these days I'm going to fix it with a little velcro on the inside of the door.

Very True.  My 1084's don't have the ugly case.  They both have the same case as the 1080.

[KassanavoidS87]

Thanks guys for this interesting and useful discussion..

I have searched in Google about this issue and it directed me here, and this post help me a lot in understanding what is the difference between 1080 and 1084.

So, thank you everybody.

[bbond007]

Oh yeah, it requires you to remove the back all right. Not a bad idea to use a large mirror as you're adjusting also. There are several convergence adjustments that need to be made on the yoke of a picture tube. They're ALL glued as to not be shaken loose, but as quality control has progressively blown chunks throughout the years (can you say unfair_trade_practice or 'sweatshop'?), I do not recommend just anyone try this though. Major shock risk if you've never attempted before and/or are a clumsy oaf. Here's some great info in layman's terms what we're talking about:

Linky to monitor FAQ's

My first 1080 was one that was damaged when shipped to one of my friends VIA UPS and they ended up paying him for the damage but not collecting the monitor. He gave it to me and I was able to repair the main circuit board which was broken right in half. The convergence was way off (not sure if that was even related, like you said could have been factory because it was glued) but i managed get it perfect by pure trial and error, but at one point i thought i'd never get it correct.  I was wearing rubber gloves because i was afraid i'd be electrocuted.... not sure if that is necessary.

before that i was using my A500 with a amber composite monitor. Terrible monitor for an amiga, except for interlace mode which had almost no flicker.