I just fixed the same problem with my CM8833-I using the switch from an AT PSU.
Only had to re-drill the mounting holes about 1 mm larger to allow for the slight difference between them(the AT screws are just slightly farther apart).
As Python15 wrote -
------------------------------------------------------I'm guessing you've already done this! It's easier said than done as the switch is soldered onto the PCB. How many AT PSU's do you know that are soldered in place? --------------------------
I'm not familiar with the -II model. Is it a different design?
