Question about power switch for Philips CM8833 Mk2 Monitor

[AndyFC]

Hi all,
The power switch on the back of my monitor has finally failed and no longer stays in the 'On' position.

I've found the part number but suppliers are rare and the part is expensive so I'm thinking of other options to replace it (it would be nice to have a working switch instead of some of the workarounds I've read about) and hope I can get some help here on a couple of questions:
 - Does the switch need to take 240v or does it handle a lower voltage and activate a relay?
 - Is it a Double Pole Single Throw or a Single Pole Single Throw

Thank you.

[AndyFC]

I've found one on ebay and I had a £5 off voucher to use so I didn't think £17 including delivery is too bad. I'll let you know how I get on with it and check the type of switch before I solder it in.

[TribbleSmasher]

If you need help, watch this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgtNkfX4Rss
 

[scuzzb494]

Hi

I just use cocktail sticks and leave them in the on position and have a switch plug. They break on all my monitors with the press button. Jam the stick in with the switch down and snap it off and then seal with some tape. I then use a plug that basically is also a switch and do it that way. I must have half a dozen monitors with the problem. Crude but works for me. The Philips was first to go.. like over 15 years ago. I even stuck a note over my front button to a very old Microvitec to never like ever switch it off.

[AndyFC]

The new switch arrived and so I've checked it and sharing here for others.

On the underside it's stamped 24v, 1A.

The following poles get connected when the switch is in the 'on' position:
Poles 1 and 2 on the photo (marked 1 and 1/1 on the switch)
Poles 3 and 4 on the photo (marked 2 and 2/1 on the switch)

It's also labelled with the part no GDE S40 which seems to be a much more common part number (this switch seems to be modified and has pins missing).

Soldering on Saturday :-)

[TribbleSmasher]

On the underside it's stamped 24v, 1A.

Normally, this would mean this switch is not qualified to replace the old one. It should read 110/230V to be in the right insulation class, also only 1Amp@24Volts means it will get warm during use as the monitor probably draws more than just 24watts.

[AndyFC]

I thought I'd give this a go and fitted it. I've had the monitor on for 2 hours straight (well insulated with the cover off and a thermometer) and there's no increase in temperature on the switch above ambient room temperature.

I've read around and think the switch I bought had dual connectors and the ratings I put on here the other day are for the terminals which have been removed.

The other rating marked on the switch I bought is:
4/100
 250

The original part from the monitor is an ME5A TV3 switch and these come up in more searches than trying to identify the Philips part number or name.
This is marked
2.5/100
 250

[TribbleSmasher]

That looks ok, the type matches too.