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1
@bjjones37

First off, on the A3K. Which Buster chip are you using? Have you tried all Zorro slots with the card?

The ROMs you pulled. When you put these back in, does the system work again?

From videos I have seen of Chris Edwards YT channel. I am under the impression the Revision 6 boards require something called a ROM tower. So simply just plugging in new ROMs without the tower part may not work.


2
may not be a proper E clock because of the 60/40 duty cycle
So about that...  I've been looking at these signals with my scope (and also read some more of the 68000 datasheet), and the shocking observation I made regarding the 14MHz accelerator in OP that the flip flop (74x112) used to divide the E frequency from the processor is falling edge triggered!  Meaning the E signal it outputs is delayed by the 4 processor clock cycles (of the 10 in the 6/4 duty cycle split) and rises on the falling edge of processor E! (That doesn't seem right, but somehow it works.)  Likewise it is not 60/40 duty cycle but 50/50 as generated by the flip flop divider.  This raises a lot of questions...  Why does it work like this (50/50) and how important is the 60/40 duty cycle?  Does it not matter that the edges of the E clock that the Amiga sees are not edge aligned with the E generated by the processor, or does 68000 just not care?

VMA timing may need some wait states or at least latching with the 7 MHz clock.
What I read in the 68000 datasheet is that it's synchronized with E, I'll need to check with the scope which edge it's in sync with because the datasheet doesn't say.
The 14MHz accelerator in OP latches VMA/VPA on the 1.4MHz E clock from the processor.  That's probably not right either.

Also, you need logic (often described as 68000 state machine logic) to guarantee at least one 7 MHz wait state on the 68000 Address Strobe, Dtack sampling on the third 7 MHz clock and cycle termination on the falling edge of the last 7 MHz clock. The reason I am warning you about Dtack sampling on the third 7 MHz clock is because Commodore allowed sloppy Zorro2 designs with early Dtack generation. Note: The Upper and Lower Data strobes may or may not need to be delayed on write cycles. 

Now, just in case that's not enough to consider, the 68000 state machine logic needs to handle the bus arbitration signals with the proper 7 MHz timing too! ;) 
Wow, lots useful info, thanks!

There are likely a lot of timing violations in the 14MHz accelerator in OP.  But somehow it was working even at 28MHz.  But so far my attempts at changes to the E signal generation all resulted in a bright green or a black screen.  I even tried positive edge triggered flip flops for the divider so the rising edge would be aligned with the rising edge of E from the processor, but that did not produce a working result.  I will try a few more things I thought of and also make a timing diagram of what I see and what I did, or maybe a picture from my scope for the next post.

The only things I have been changing right now is the generation of the E signal and sometimes latching of VMA/VPA.  Just this change alone causes the breakage, I think it's best I focus on this one thing at a time?
3
From memory D215A. Is there a component there?
Fix is normally, ceramic cap across collector and emitter pads.
4
Hi all,

The PSU in my beloved (and heavily-upgraded) Amiga 2000 is clearly on the way out. As of now the machine will power up, but all I can get is the power LED pulsing from bright to dim over and over. It's done this before but usually "letting it warm up" for a few minutes in the pulsing-state would get it to fully boot up, but that's no longer the case. In the interest of making the system run better (especially with lots of cards and internal upgrades), I'm going to replace the tired old PSU with a modern one, using this kit which I've just ordered.

The kit page says that it will work with nearly any standard ATX power supply, but of course there's a lot of variations from brand to brand, model to model, and the only specific one they recommend doesn't seem to be available anymore.

If any of you have done an ATX mod on an Amiga 2000 and has a recommendation for a relatively decent power supply which is still available, I'd be very grateful!

Huxley

PS Obviously there are plenty of other things which can cause a vintage computer to fail. I don't know for certain that my issue will be resolved by a PSU swap, but I doubt it will hurt. If anyone has suggestions on other things I should be trying, I'm all ears!
5
I have and Amiga 3000D that I purchased a BigRAMPlus card for.  It is currently configured to softkick Kickstart 3.1.  When I put in the memory card to the Zorro slot at bootup it says that the card is defective.  I assumed that is was because I was using 1.4 to softkick 3.1.  So I purchased new 3.1 ROMs and installed them.  All I got was a black screen.  The installation picture provided by the vendor shows a different version of the motherboard than mine.  I have Rev 6.1. 

The example picture shows bare solder pads where the ROM jumpers are supposed to be. Mine has Jumpers J180 and J181 both jumpered 2-3. Do I need to remove these?

I have the Alpha 5 ROMs in sockets U182 and U183 on my Rev 6.1 board where example board is bare solder pads. Are any special modifications required? Because pulling out my ROMs (or should I have left them in?) and putting the 3.1 ROMs in U180 and U181 simply did not work.

If someone who has done this before can give me some tips I would appreciate it.
6
@sheepz

Just to throw this into the mix…

If you have a SCSI setup. Then there is now a way to do Wireless Networking with a BlueSCSI V2. I have obtained this with the necessary controller. When I get chance will see If I can get it to work with my B1260+MKIV SCSI or even my BPPC + SCSI setup.

Obviously the wifipi is now getting closer as well…

7
@mykrowyre, I've seen this to varying degrees and it has varied for me by screen and connection. Sorry if I've missed it on previous posts but how do you connect e.g. RF modulator, composite, RGB, and to what type of screen?
8
I have a 1D4 mainboard, and I have this annoying problem that the screen flickers and become a little wavy with any disk access. The floppy drive tick will cause the screen to jump, especially when inserting or removing disks.

I'm aware of the A1200 "flicker fix" on the Video DAC reference line where a cap is installed to make sure the 1.2V is clean.  That cap always exists on my board, and the 1.2V is clean and does not have any trace of noise.

The 5V rail however which runs the floppy drive is very noisy.  Each time the drive ticks the voltage dips.  When the floppy tick is disabled (sticking a disk in), the screen stops jumping, but is still wavy any time I'm accessing the HD so the noise on 5V is still there just not as bad.

Since the 5V rail is used to pull up the Horizontal and Vertical sync pins, I think this may be where the video is being effected as 5V rail sags.

I've tried placing various capacitors across that 5V line to ground but it seems to have no effect at all.

I thought it might be the power supply, so I removed my accelerator and it didn't seem to have any effect on voltage. 

Obviously it still could be a the power supply.

I considered that I could have a bad floppy drive which is pulling excess current, but even when unplugged the screen is wavy on HD disk access.

Has anyone run into this before?

Thanks

Hi,

Simple answer is “Yes”, have had this even on a Rev 1D1 mainboard. The answer maybe that the top RF shielding is needed. Or the drive motor has become too noisy on the drive.
Is the drive by chance a Panasonic one?
9

I have a 1D4 mainboard, and I have this annoying problem that the screen flickers and become a little wavy with any disk access. The floppy drive tick will cause the screen to jump, especially when inserting or removing disks.

I'm aware of the A1200 "flicker fix" on the Video DAC reference line where a cap is installed to make sure the 1.2V is clean.  That cap always exists on my board, and the 1.2V is clean and does not have any trace of noise.

The 5V rail however which runs the floppy drive is very noisy.  Each time the drive ticks the voltage dips.  When the floppy tick is disabled (sticking a disk in), the screen stops jumping, but is still wavy any time I'm accessing the HD so the noise on 5V is still there just not as bad.

Since the 5V rail is used to pull up the Horizontal and Vertical sync pins, I think this may be where the video is being effected as 5V rail sags.

I've tried placing various capacitors across that 5V line to ground but it seems to have no effect at all.

I thought it might be the power supply, so I removed my accelerator and it didn't seem to have any effect on voltage. 

Obviously it still could be a the power supply.

I considered that I could have a bad floppy drive which is pulling excess current, but even when unplugged the screen is wavy on HD disk access.

Has anyone run into this before?

Thanks

10
Hey, so I found the issue. Was a bit of a guess in the end, but it worked. Ill be releasing a video on the whole saga in the next few days

Basically, although the card does NOT need a Super Buster 11 from Factory, because of historical upgrades to the card, it now DOES.

With the Super Buster 9 in place, it manifested numerous subtle issues, mainly in the form of Checksum errors, but mainly, drives would not mount, or mount infrequently and not work.

Originally, I was going to do a video on a SCSI CD-Rom, disk swapper app, but considering the gip I have had with this card, I think it makes more sense to video document THAT journey first.

Interesting to note. Look forward to your video 👍🏻

Make sure you post a link on here. I have subscribed, so hopefully I should get a YouTube notification for it 🤔

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