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Operating System Specific Discussions => Other Operating Systems => Topic started by: bbond007 on April 04, 2013, 12:23:54 AM
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I inherited a NES system with a lot of games (many the same titles unfortunately), 6 controllers a few light guns and some really retro looking infrared wireless controllers. I also have a lot of manuals for games(unfortunately many for games I don't have). It also came with a contact cleaner kit for the cartridge slot.
this NES had difficulty working at all but if I messed with the cartridge and slot enough it would eventually start working. Typically it would have corrupt graphics or a flashing power light or both. When it works, it works fine until the next time you insert new game then its the same thing over again.
I read on the internet and diagnosed this to be a faulty cartridge connector inside unit. I ordered a new one of those off ebay and really optimistic the problem would be fixed as I could tell there was a lot more resistance when inserting a cartridge. After that I would typically get flashing power light and sometimes corrupt graphics. After endless fooling with the cleaner thing and cleaning the cartridge contacts with electrical cleaner and q-tip it would work... until you change the cartridge.
Reading some more I was convinced that I needed to disable the nintendo lockout chip, so I did that following this guide:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Portable-Game-System/step16/Disabling-the-Lockout-Chip/
I tried to bend up the pin to make it easier to solder a wire to but it broke off.
Reading on, grounding the pin was optional so I still OK... or so I thought.
Now the thing behaves about the same but instead of the flashing light I just get a grey screen or corrupt graphics. Eventually it works, but its not any more consistent than when I originally got it.
So, what is the deal? Are the cartridges all shot? Maybe thats why I have so many duplicates. Or maybe the connector I got from ebay is no good although everyone else seemed to have good luck with this vendor and it looked new to me. something else?
any ideas would be appreciated.
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Replacing the 72 pin connector can sort it however you will find if your getting grey or garbled graphics it's probably crud on the carts. Best thing to do is buy a cleaning kit off the net that contains two solutions. One is white and removes the built up crud the second is a weak alcohol that removes the white stuff and any remaining crud. You will also need to a special bit to remove the screws in the cart case.
When openening the carts pay special attention to how the PCB fits in the plastic case. You need to make sure it goes back in the right way.
Also the new 72 pin connector can be tight when first used. It is reccomended to start with cleaned newer carts before using some of the older, launch titles. the older carts used a thicker pcb that could wreck the new 72 pin connector. It rare for it to happen but it's best to start with newer carts because the pcb is thinner and helps break in the 72 pin connector. Also don't leave carts in over night because undue stress on the connectors can cause damage over time.
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Hmmm, replacing the cartridge connector usually does the trick. I assume you cleaned the contacts on the cart with a 50/50 water alcohol solution as well?
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Hmmm, replacing the cartridge connector usually does the trick. I assume you cleaned the contacts on the cart with a 50/50 water alcohol solution as well?
I was using radio shack electrical cleaner in an aresol can. I was just spraying a little bit on a q-tip. Maybe I should not use that...
Replacing the 72 pin connector can sort it however you will find if your getting grey or garbled graphics it's probably crud on the carts. Best thing to do is buy a cleaning kit off the net that contains two solutions. One is white and removes the built up crud the second is a weak alcohol that removes the white stuff and any remaining crud. You will also need to a special bit to remove the screws in the cart case. .
Good idea. I'll see if I have the screwdrivers. I know I have a screwdriver with bunch of odball bits I use to work on my apple stuff.
thanks.
I'll report back once I try. You guys are probably right that my cartridges are just really bad.
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I was using radio shack electrical cleaner in an aresol can. I was just spraying a little bit on a q-tip. Maybe I should not use that...
Not sure, never used that before. I figure if it is getting the gunk off the carts and you are blowing on them and allowing them to dry before you try to use them again that there shouldn't be any damaging effects with what you are using.
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the 50/50 solution doesn't work for all carts. Some carts have lots of corrosion on them that need almost polishing in order to get working. Trust me I spent weeks cleaning my bloody carts with 50/50 and then for some to do the exact same thing. I got a cleaning kit off the net and now even the ones that refused to work now work perfectly.
http://www.nintendorepairshop.com/products/78-1-Nintendo-NES-Total-Repair-Kit/
This is what I bought.
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Grey screen or flashing power happened all too often when I was a kid. When it happened, I just took the game out and blew in the cartridge. Most often it was all it took to get it to work.
From what I know now, it was probably a bad idea to blow at the connector in the cartridge with your mouth; warm moist air, perfect for corroding metal. I think it would be better to clean the connector with isopropyl alcohol. If you have changed the cartridge connector in the console, I recommend you to clean the connectors on the game.
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Hi,
I used to be an authorized Nintendo tech. back in the 1990's. The security chip only comes into play with "illegal" games like a 72 in 1 cart. 99% of the time it's the 72 pin connector and the games. The best way to clean the games is to take them apart and scrub the gold contacts with chrome polish (Nintendo recommended "Turtle Wax" brand) then wipe them off with wet paper towel. Do not blow in the cart.. A dirty game will quickly contaminate a new connector, sometimes the first time you put it in. If you have a good connector cleaner you should be able to bring it back, use alcohol to clean with.
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Grey screen or flashing power happened all too often when I was a kid. When it happened, I just took the game out and blew in the cartridge. Most often it was all it took to get it to work.
From what I know now, it was probably a bad idea to blow at the connector in the cartridge with your mouth; warm moist air, perfect for corroding metal. I think it would be better to clean the connector with isopropyl alcohol. If you have changed the cartridge connector in the console, I recommend you to clean the connectors on the game.
Haha, yes I did that too... First thing I did :)
And it has had about the same success rate as anything else I have tried in that if you do it long enough it eventually works.
Another vote that I'm not doing enough on the carts.
Now that I think of it, I'm also not utilizing a consistent methodology for testing/cleaning the games. With up to 3 of the same ones, perhaps I'm not even trying/cleaning the same ones... maybe I'm even transferring gunk into my 72 pin connector.
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Hi,
I used to be an authorized Nintendo tech. back in the 1990's. The security chip only comes into play with "illegal" games like a I was just thinking that could be possible the way I was just trying random carts. Now that you say that happens, I'm pretty sure that may be what is going on...
. 99% of the time it's the 72 pin connector and the games. The best way to clean the games is to take them apart and scrub the gold contacts with chrome polish (Nintendo recommended "Turtle Wax" brand) then wipe them off with wet paper towel. Do not blow in the cart.. A dirty game will quickly contaminate a new connector, sometimes the first time you put it in. If you have a good connector cleaner you should be able to bring it back, use alcohol to clean with.
I was just thinking that could be possible the way I was just trying random carts. Now that you confirm that happens, I'm pretty sure that may at least part of what is going on.
I did not know they made a 71 in one cart. Maybe I should just get one of those and forget about these old carts :)
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The 71 in one carts are usually pirate carts and only a hand full of games on it will be unique games. The rest might be rom hacks and name changes. Best sticking to normal carts rather than the pirate ones.
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The 71 in one carts are usually pirate carts and only a hand full of games on it will be unique games. The rest might be rom hacks and name changes. Best sticking to normal carts rather than the pirate ones.
too bad this is a little expensive :)
http://www.retrousb.com/product_info.php?products_id=34
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The 71 in one carts are usually pirate carts and only a hand full of games on it will be unique games. The rest might be rom hacks and name changes. Best sticking to normal carts rather than the pirate ones.
Yes, some had pirated games others were just crappy unlicensed games. They would use hacks to get around Nintendo's security chip, but Nintendo kept changing the code in the chip to shut them down. So a pirate cartridge might play on an older NES deck but not a newer deck.
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Here's the ultimate solution. I NES that was designed correctly in the first place. ;)
Anyhow, it looks like some people on here's advice and knowledge on the subject of cleaning carts far surpasses my general user knowledge.
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Here's the ultimate solution. I NES that was designed correctly in the first place. ;)
yeah, I know... or run the emulator :)
Just this NES was mine from when I was a kid and it was traded for something or another now its finally comes back to me 25 years later. It picked up a bunch of controllers, extra power brick, games, and various other peripherals along the way. gold zelda cartridge too :)
its the same unit though, same huge scratch in the top. Now that I think about it, it always like to do the power thing when from when I first got it - second hand from hillbilllies.
amazingly durable, this stuff was not packed at all and just thrown in a box all loose and shipped to me UPS. There was an protective holding case(for your units, carts and whatnot) as well, but it was shattered.
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Yes, blowing in the cart. was so common that Nintendo supplied us with orange stickers warning people not to blow in the cart. that we had to put on every deck we repaired. They also sold cleaning kits for the games, but if the kid had been blowing too long the corrosion would be too bad. In that case the game had to come apart and be cleaned with chrome polish.
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Terrible design, the original NES. Though I guess the compression finger design saved a lot of mechanical wear on the cart edge connectors. I don't recall having ever seen worn out contacts on NES carts, though I've seen quite a few Genesis carts with the plating worn right off.
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Yes, blowing in the cart. was so common that Nintendo supplied us with orange stickers warning people not to blow in the cart. that we had to put on every deck we repaired. They also sold cleaning kits for the games, but if the kid had been blowing too long the corrosion would be too bad. In that case the game had to come apart and be cleaned with chrome polish.
I used to get so incensed with my friends for blowing on the cartridges. Try though I might, I simply could not convince them that 1) re-seating the cartridge was what made their motion effective, and 2) they were ruining their cartridges at the same time. And of course having a number of gamer magazines at the time recommend the blowing technique didn't help. I remember similar problems with the Atari 2600, though not as prevalent, and with the dust covers built into those cartridges you couldn't blow on them so re-seating was the only real option available (excluding, of course, third party cartridges which did not have covers over the boards.)
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Grey screen or flashing power happened all too often when I was a kid. When it happened, I just took the game out and blew in the cartridge. Most often it was all it took to get it to work.
From what I know now, it was probably a bad idea to blow at the connector in the cartridge with your mouth; warm moist air, perfect for corroding metal. I think it would be better to clean the connector with isopropyl alcohol. If you have changed the cartridge connector in the console, I recommend you to clean the connectors on the game.
Using contact spray and compressed air is what I use. Works like magic.
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I went through all my tools and did not have the correct one to open the NES cartridges. I ordered one off Ebay so now i wait...
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My screwdrivers came in and the NES one was pretty poorly made but I was able to open about 8 cartridges with it before what little teeth the tool had were gone.
I ended up using a dremil tool with buffing wheel with goo-be-gone. I only have been using the ones I cleaned in the NES now.
I am having better success but sometimes the NES still gets the white screen or corruption. I'm definitely getting closer.
I'm going to look for an appropriate bit for my rechargeable screwdriver because that screwdriver I bought was ridiculous. Its like it was not cut deep enough to fit over the head of the screw.
I need to try out those RF game controllers :)
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If it is the black bit then they are crap. I got a silver bit and it's still going strong 30 carts later. The trick is also to put a fair bit of pressure on the screwes, but obviously not enough tp break the cart ;) this is to ensure that the bit has a good hold of it. I also made sure i set the electric screwdriver to it's lowest torque setting. However there are some older carts that have a weired screw to them. Kind of like a philips screw but smaller.
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The original japanese famicom didn't have that problem. It was because the Americans wanted a different look on the system that gave the end users in usa as well in europe with that ****ty design. Their claim was that the japanese model appeal as a toy.